Must read before buying new battery (UPS or Car)

[IsbCap]

Dear, how old are your batteries??? Your batteries are out of order now, one or more cell of battery is weak or short. If UPS keeps charging all the time, u will recieve handsome bill from WAPDA,
Replacing such batteries is the best solution,

Thanks for reply. Batteries are 2 years old now.

How to set the charge cut off point for a chinese (Mercury) UPS??? I'm thinking to cut it off at 12.5 V, so UPS doesn't keep it charging all the time. Only load is 3-4 lights.

[rag888]

14.2 to 14.4 is OK but better 14.2

The Avometer, (black and yellow as shown in my pics) doesnt display the DC voltage in points, rather it is shown in round figures. So, it would be difficult to have a precise measurement of 14.2 v. Any alternatives? i have increased the cut off voltage to like when the reading is flicking between 14 and 15 volts the UPS stop charging.

[Ishtiaq778]

Thanks for reply. Batteries are 2 years old now.

How to set the charge cut off point for a chinese (Mercury) UPS??? I'm thinking to cut it off at 12.5 V, so UPS doesn't keep it charging all the time. Only load is 3-4 lights.

Chinies UPS have no adjustable parameters, So the best options is to replace the battries otherwise you have to refill the batteries with distilled water

[Ishtiaq778]

Thanks alot, buddy.

Now what I have understood is that we are not supposed to touch the LEFT most and the RIGHT most Yellow wires, but just the Red and Blue/Purple ones. I was able to get someone to check my UPS and he moved the red wire to the left most point as shown in the pic below.

Now the UPS is charging the battery between 10 to 20 amperes, hence problem solved, I guess?

Also, i want to know that whereas you have marked the number 2 point (from left) as number 1 (leaving the first/left most point for inverter), but this dude who came to check my UPS has utilized the left most point and attached the red wire alongwith the yellow wire to the left most point, so i guess one can even utilize the point which you had mentioned for inverter to connect the red wire with no issues, right?

Last question, my UPS has the function for 'High' and 'Low' charging.

For this there is a switch behind the UPS by which i can shift between high charging and low charging amperes. Now by shifting the red wire, the Low charging amperes has been decreased to 15 amperes from 35 amperes, but the High charging apmeres are the same (approx 45 amperes), so the question is that should i also move the blue wire towards left to decrease ampere for 'High' charging too? I mean I can shift the blue wire further left so that even the 'High Charging' is within normal range like around 25 amperes.

Thnx in advance

Below is the pic how may UPS looks like when the Red wire was moved to the left most point:

Dear , Move the blue wire, next to red wire, then u will get less ampere at this point, for AGS 175 battery, ideal charging ampere is 13 to 15,
The F72 Model kit is old version without charging ampere control option, if you can find, get latest model kit IC 104, then your charging problem will be solved permanently, other wise you have to change the charging loop with increase or decrease in AC input volts.

[Ishtiaq778]

In summer, AC Volts drops to 150V while in winter at some areas volts raise up to 250, So your UPS was adjusted according to summer low AC input , that is why very high ampere was given to battery by ups,
You are lucky to observe this high amperage, other wise, UPS transformer was about to burn, Keep this setting untill volts are high,

[rag888]

In summer, AC Volts drops to 150V while in winter at some areas volts raise up to 250, So your UPS was adjusted according to summer low AC input , that is why very high ampere was given to battery by ups,
You are lucky to observe this high amperage, other wise, UPS transformer was about to burn, Keep this setting untill volts are high,

Thanks for the reply. I am grateful.

Actually, i got the kit changed last year and since then I didnt use the UPS at all. So, i think i will wait before I buy the IC-104.

As for the AC Volts, yes you are right in saying that the place where i was previously the AC voltages were low and now here the normal WAPDA voltages are 250. In future i will adjust the charging amperes accordingly. Thanks to you for educating me.

[nasirjavaid]

The Avometer, (black and yellow as shown in my pics) doesnt display the DC voltage in points, rather it is shown in round figures. So, it would be difficult to have a precise measurement of 14.2 v. Any alternatives? i have increased the cut off voltage to like when the reading is flicking between 14 and 15 volts the UPS stop charging.

14 volt should also be safe. Set it so that after reaching 14v it disconnects withing 5-10 minutes. depending on the charging amps it should be roughly 14.2 volts.

[rag888]

nasirjavaid and Ishtiaq778, there's another problem. My battery is brand new, just bought a week before, but then when the battery is fully charged and the moment there is loadshedding and UPS turns on, the battery voltage drops to 11 vs even though only 2 x energy savers are running on the UPS. It's a AGS GX 175 battery, it should discharge so early. Is there a problem with the battery?

My UPS was initialy set to stop charging at 14 vs, then i increased that time to when the voltmeter is flicking between 14 and 15 volts, even then the battery shows 12 v when the charging is stopped!

Please help.

[nasirjavaid]

Fully charged battery has 12.7 voltage. Under load battery sometimes goes to 11.8 volt often. Important thing is if its giving proper backup then its good to go. It should not discharge beyond 10.5 volts.

[nasirjavaid]

@ishtiaq bro need your help....
Couple of months ago my plate of irfp150M got burnt and had to replace with irfp150N....couple of days ago my ups was ticking start/stop charging like 2 seconds of charging then 5 seconds stop then again 2 seconds charging and so on...
Today morning it didn't converted to ups when light went off**.... Checked and found 2 out of 5 the transistors were burnt (IRFP150N) ..on 1 plate. So removed them removed 5th transistor from second plate (5 on both sides) and soldered on first plate making 4-4 on both sides..

Then fitted back everything and connected to battery. It is giving output as tested by plugging mobile charger but its too much noisy now and also even on/off button is off it still runs and led show no status...

Please help what could be wrong? Some other transistor is also faulty or some issue with kit now???

Attached is the pic of original plate... new electircian used resistors on these points instead of direct connection as in this pic.... what is the difference? what is the purpose of the 2 wires going to kit from these plates..?

Ups is in open state so urgent help will be highly appreciated..

Thanks.*

[addikted]

Asalamualikum

Guys any idea how much should be the price of Exide CNG 65L
and the warranty for these batteries

Jazaka Allah
:

[Ishtiaq778]

@ishtiaq bro need your help....
Couple of months ago my plate of irfp150M got burnt and had to replace with irfp150N....couple of days ago my ups was ticking start/stop charging like 2 seconds of charging then 5 seconds stop then again 2 seconds charging and so on...
Today morning it didn't converted to ups when light went off**.... Checked and found 2 out of 5 the transistors were burnt (IRFP150N) ..on 1 plate. So removed them removed 5th transistor from second plate (5 on both sides) and soldered on first plate making 4-4 on both sides..

Then fitted back everything and connected to battery. It is giving output as tested by plugging mobile charger but its too much noisy now and also even on/off button is off it still runs and led show no status...

Please help what could be wrong? Some other transistor is also faulty or some issue with kit now???

Attached is the pic of original plate... new electircian used resistors on these points instead of direct connection as in this pic.... what is the difference? what is the purpose of the 2 wires going to kit from these plates..?

Ups is in open state so urgent help will be highly appreciated..

Thanks.*

Dear, other Transistors are also faulty, better replace all,

[Ishtiaq778]

The two wire connected to each plate, from the kit are biasing volts( driving volts).
Before connecting these two wires to the plates, biasing volts must be measured, never exceeds from 4.5 to 5 volts,

[Ishtiaq778]

Asalamualikum

Guys any idea how much should be the price of Exide CNG 65L
and the warranty for these batteries

Jazaka Allah
:

Dear, EXCIDE Guaranty is for one months,( in case of fault they will replace) and 5 months warranty,( will repair the battery but will charge you amount.
price of this battery is 4800 Rs

[addikted]

Dear, EXCIDE Guaranty is for one months,( in case of fault they will replace) and 5 months warranty,( will repair the battery but will charge you amount.
price of this battery is 4800 Rs

Thanks price you quoted is the same but the warranty is 3 months.

[Ishtiaq778]

Thanks price you quoted is the same but the warranty is 3 months.

wHY 3 months???

[addikted]

This is wot the guy said.

[nasirjavaid]

Dear, other Transistors are also faulty, better replace all,

The two wire connected to each plate, from the kit are biasing volts( driving volts).
Before connecting these two wires to the plates, biasing volts must be measured, never exceeds from 4.5 to 5 volts,

Thank you so much dear, I will replace all the transistors.... but I don't understand why they got blown in just 2-3 months while initial lasted 3 years...

Now please clear my confusion in below points:

1. It means kit is fine?? as when I connect battery, display LEDs don't come on.
2. How to measure biasing voltage? +ve probe on one wire and -ve to ground?
3. Should I install 5 transistors? as initially there were 4 but new electrcian said adding 5 it will work as 700watts while 4 act as 500 watts...
4. You forgot to tell about the resistor usage... or I can use direct without resistor like initial setup?
5. 150M is better than 150N or I can use 150N ??

Thanks agan.

[Ishtiaq778]

Thank you so much dear, I will replace all the transistors.... but I don't understand why they got blown in just 2-3 months while initial lasted 3 years...

Now please clear my confusion in below points:

1. It means kit is fine?? as when I connect battery, display LEDs don't come on.
2. How to measure biasing voltage? +ve probe on one wire and -ve to ground?
3. Should I install 5 transistors? as initially there were 4 but new electrcian said adding 5 it will work as 700watts while 4 act as 500 watts...
4. You forgot to tell about the resistor usage... or I can use direct without resistor like initial setup?
5. 150M is better than 150N or I can use 150N ??

Thanks agan.

upload pic of complete ups.. with all parts visibility (transformer, kit,plates)

[nasirjavaid]

upload pic of complete ups.. with all parts visibility (transformer, kit,plates)

Here are the complete pics bro.... kit is Lahore electronics D-12 or something same (don't remember exactly).. will post shortly after reaching home from office and verifying...