My 93' Corolla From New Zealand (AE100 JDM)

[KiwiCorolla]

Another day, another delivery :D. These arrived a few minutes ago - My 275mm front rotors and a set of new brake pads that I ordered from Toyota. Got my set of AE101 twinpot calipers and ST202 Celica carrier brackets sitting here already waiting so I'm looking forward to putting everything on :)

[accord7362]

Qatal-e-Amm continue.............................................

Allaaaa Dost bohat Alllaaaaa :*

[KiwiCorolla]

I did the 275mm rotor upgrade and twinpot caliper swap yesterday :D. Everything went to plan and the braking performance is phenomenal. It comes to a dead stop within a matter of seconds and literally throws you forward in the seat. I can brake a lot later into corners and don't have to push anywhere near as hard on the pedal for the same effect. It was definitely a worthwhile upgrade and they've been a lot of fun to drive with so far

Here's some pics (they're a lot shinier in real-life but you get the idea) -

[born_2b_wild]

wow..rims are looking alot sexier in closeup..u surely know what to do and how to do it..(Y)

[born_2b_wild]

i hope u wont mind sending me the pics in start on this thread..i want to use them as wallpaper

[KiwiCorolla]

wow..rims are looking alot sexier in closeup..u surely know what to do and how to do it..(Y)

i hope u wont mind sending me the pics in start on this thread..i want to use them as wallpaper

Thanks bro :). Yeah sure, just let me know which ones you would like and send them to you (H)

I installed this sweet looking Tomei fuel pressure regulator today. I had always assumed that fuel pressure regulators were only beneficial for turbocharged engines, until I came across a post online about a fellow Blacktop owner who had installed a FPR, played around with the pressure setting and had great results.

The factory fuel pressure for a Blacktop is 40psi at full throttle, and raising it to 44psi seems to be the sweet spot for the ECU as it doesn't affect the top end performance and doesn't seem to affect the fuel economy. After my first initial drive once I had finished the installation I was very impressed at how much of a difference the additional 4psi of fuel pressure had made. The sluggishness down low had gone and the throttle response had increased dramatically. The engine now responds when I want it to, instead of having to wind itself up from low to mid rpm like it used to.


All in all it has definitely made the engine rev more freely and respond a lot quicker. It's now a lot more fun to drive, especially around town. Proved to be a very worthwhile upgrade :)


The set-up consists of:


* Genuine Tomei Type S fuel pressure regulator.
* Genuine Tomei liquid filled gauge.
* Genuine Tomei fuel rail adapter.
* Goodyear fuel hose & 4mm silicone vacuum hose.
* 2x 90-degree brass elbow fittings, 1x straight fitting.

[born_2b_wild]

Thanks bro :). Yeah sure, just let me know which ones you would like and send them to you (H)

I installed this sweet looking Tomei fuel pressure regulator today. I had always assumed that fuel pressure regulators were only beneficial for turbocharged engines, until I came across a post online about a fellow Blacktop owner who had installed a FPR, played around with the pressure setting and had great results.

The factory fuel pressure for a Blacktop is 40psi at full throttle, and raising it to 44psi seems to be the sweet spot for the ECU as it doesn't affect the top end performance and doesn't seem to affect the fuel economy. After my first initial drive once I had finished the installation I was very impressed at how much of a difference the additional 4psi of fuel pressure had made. The sluggishness down low had gone and the throttle response had increased dramatically. The engine now responds when I want it to, instead of having to wind itself up from low to mid rpm like it used to.


All in all it has definitely made the engine rev more freely and respond a lot quicker. It's now a lot more fun to drive, especially around town. Proved to be a very worthwhile upgrade :)


The set-up consists of:


* Genuine Tomei Type S fuel pressure regulator.
* Genuine Tomei liquid filled gauge.
* Genuine Tomei fuel rail adapter.
* Goodyear fuel hose & 4mm silicone vacuum hose.
* 2x 90-degree brass elbow fittings, 1x straight fitting.

the first 6 pics in the main post..thank u

[KiwiCorolla]

^ Ok no problem :). I'll find them on my hard-drive and let you know

I've been toying around with the idea of shorter trumpets/ram tubes lately as the engine bay heat being sucked into my open 110mm tubes wasn't doing the performance any favors. I reverted back to the standard curved rubber trumpets for a few weeks and even though the car felt a little more sluggish, the engine much preferred the nice cold air it was ingesting from the cold air intake.

Curiosity got the better of me and I decided to remove the rubber trumpets and run no trumpets whatsoever inside the plenum for just one day. The result was that the engine didn't really have any power down low, but as soon as it hit 5,500rpm the needle rocketed to redline, as expected. One thing I noticed with the factory rubber trumpets is that they're good for mid-range power, but once you get higher up in the rev range the power starts backing off a bit.

To cut a long story short (no pun intended), I decided to get a set of 60mm trumpets custom made which will fit perfectly in the standard plenum. You can actually fit as large as 70mm inside the plenum but it starts getting pretty cramped, so I decided that 60mm would be a nice compromise.

They arrived today and I was quick to install them. Upon my 20-minute test drive I noticed that the power down low had dropped off a bit, but up high it was all guns blazing. The full power band comes on from about 5,000rpm, all the way to 8,000rpm, which I discovered ends up being a good place to be as the engine is constantly in it's power band for the next gear when shifting at the 8,000rpm redline.

It's certainly going to take a bit of getting used to, but so far so good. I'm going to miss the sound my 110's made, and the torquey-ness of the standard trumpets, but when driving the engine at it's full potential the 60's seem to be a good choice

As always, here's some pics. The first 4 show the comparison between the old 110's and the new 60's, and the very last photo was taken by the metal spinner who made my trumpets, showing the clearance of a 50mm trumpet inside the stock plenum (essentially the same sort of clearance as my 60mm ones) -

[KiwiCorolla]

Ok guys, change of plans yet again.......After using the 60mm trumpets all day today I began to miss my old 110mm trumpets. Although the 60's are great up top, it just felt like there was nobody home whatsoever under 5,000rpm, and since 90% of my driving is in the city this started to get on my nerves......

So off came the plenum, along with the trumpets, and an idea popped into my head. Some of you may recall that I bought a splash guard from the US for the trumpets a while back. I used it for about a week and then took it off, but today I was thinking of ways to prevent heat from entering the trumpets if I reinstalled my 110's, when it suddenly occurred to me that I could try and flip the guard upside down, effectively turning it from a splash guard into a heat shield. To my surprise, everything lined up perfectly and it cleared the strut brace with no issues.

Before going ahead with the install I removed the original 2-layer metal gasket from the stock plenum and put it between the ITB's and the shield. This not only allowed the holes to locate perfectly over the intake ports but should also help to act as a heat barrier between the ITB's and the actual trumpets.

After bolting everything in place and redoing my air supply feed (removing the pod filter from the guard and replacing it with a huge bellmouth) I finished the set-up by applying a TRD sticker I've had lying around for a while. It seems to break up the grayness a bit, without looking out of place.

The first drive was amazing - My mid-range power was back in full force and the induction noise was like music to my ears (I swear it has gotten even louder since fitting the shield). My original problem of having no filtration still remains, however the trumpets feel a lot cooler to touch after driving as the shield helps to deflect a lot of the heat away. It'll never be immune to engine bay heat without the use of a plenum, but with the help of this mod it should help to keep things in check

[KiwiCorolla]

Couple of small updates - I installed a Carbing front lower arm bar (also know as a tie bar) today. Carbing is a Japanese company that have been around since the late 70's, specializing in aftermarket suspension parts. The bar itself is surprisingly light and the installation only took about 15-minutes.

It's designed to improve steering response and reduce chassis flex, however it's effectiveness is somewhat questionable as the subframe acts as a pretty decent brace on it's own, but after my initial test drive on the same stretches of roads I travel every day the steering response did seem a bit sharper and the cornering more stable. It bolts to the front of the lower control arm, which theoretically should help stop the joints flexing in their cradles when cornering.

The other thing I installed today is a TRD radiator cap. I bought one a while ago but it was the S type, which was unfortunately too small for my aftermarket aluminium radiator. This one on the other hand is an N type, and fit perfectly. It has a higher boiling point than my previous cap (1.1 vs 1.3) and looks pretty sweet at the same time.

[hamza_xeg]

This is one serious AE-100,thumbs up to you sir

[Civic95_Reborn]

Gets better and better.......

[KiwiCorolla]

Thank you guys

I was finally able to get my hands on an OEM 9,000rpm tachometer from an AE101 Corolla GT sedan yesterday. I've been on the lookout for a GT sedan being wrecked for quite a while now but they're so hard to find, and when I do find them they're usually automatics and have a slightly earlier redline. Luckily this time I found a manual one, so the redline starts at 8,000rpm, with an early warning line just after 7,500rpm (my old one only went to 8,000rpm and redlined at 6,250rpm) and a max rpm of 9,000.

I installed it today by simply taking apart the cluster and swapping them over, allowing me to still keep my 240kph speedometer that I fitted earlier this year. Looks a lot better now, and taking it to 8,000rpm is just that little bit more satisfying

[KiwiCorolla]

I replaced my oxygen sensor today. There wasn't anything drastically wrong with my old one as far as I could tell, however every couple of weeks a random splutter would occur during light acceleration, but would disappear after a few minutes or when I put my foot to the floor, leading me to think that the oxygen sensor might be starting to wear out. My fuel economy seems to be on par with what other Blacktop owners are getting, but after 15-years of service I figured it would be a good idea to replace it, in the hope of getting better fuel economy and smoother power delivery.

They're a pretty expensive thing to replace when buying a genuine Toyota/Denso one but should last a long time before I need to replace it again. I reset the ECU after the install and everything works as it should. Looking forward to seeing if my fuel economy increases over the coming weeks

[Bilalicious]

Where do u find the o2 sensor part no for each engine? As in, what would be the part no of an o2 for a 4efte for example...

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[KiwiCorolla]

Where do u find the o2 sensor part no for each engine? As in, what would be the part no of an o2 for a 4efte for example...

You can find the part numbers for every single part on the car by using ToyoDIY.com. Choose your year, model and engine type and then you can browse through the various categories and find your parts on the OEM diagrams. Very quick and easy to use. You can also cross-reference parts to see which other models share the same part numbers.

For example: The 4E-FTE oxygen sensor part number is 89465-10020. Interestingly, that's the same identical sensor that is used in most 4E-FE, 4E-F, 5E-FE, 5E-FHE, 2E, 3E, 3S-FE 4S-FE and certain 5A-FE engines (among others). That's quite lucky because in the case of the 4A-GE 20v Blacktop sensor like mine no other vehicle shares the same part number, lol.

Here's the parts page for the 4E-FTE (in this case a '96 Starlet Glanza V) - ToyoDIY.com

And here's the parts cross-reference page for the 4E-FTE oxygen sensor - ToyoDIY.com

[ifoo_786]

Hottest corolla

[Bilalicious]

You can find the part numbers for every single part on the car by using ToyoDIY.com. Choose your year, model and engine type and then you can browse through the various categories and find your parts on the OEM diagrams. Very quick and easy to use. You can also cross-reference parts to see which other models share the same part numbers.

For example: The 4E-FTE oxygen sensor part number is 89465-10020. Interestingly, that's the same identical sensor that is used in most 4E-FE, 4E-F, 5E-FE, 5E-FHE, 2E, 3E, 3S-FE 4S-FE and certain 5A-FE engines (among others). That's quite lucky because in the case of the 4A-GE 20v Blacktop sensor like mine no other vehicle shares the same part number, lol.

Here's the parts page for the 4E-FTE (in this case a '96 Starlet Glanza V) - ToyoDIY.com

And here's the parts cross-reference page for the 4E-FTE oxygen sensor - ToyoDIY.com

Man you rock

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[Bilalicious]

P.S how do u reset the ecu? Is there a reset button or do u need to short some wires for sometime?

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[KiwiCorolla]

P.S how do u reset the ecu? Is there a reset button or do u need to short some wires for sometime?

There are two ways to reset the ECU: Either remove your negative battery terminal for about an hour or pull the EFI fuse in the engine bay for 10-20 seconds. I only ever use the fuse technique as it's much quicker and you don't lose your stereo settings or have to readjust the clock. There's a 15amp (blue) fuse in the engine bay fusebox (located in front of the left strut tower). The top of the fuse box will label which order the fuses are in. The one you want is labelled 'EFI'. You simply pull the fuse out, wait 10-20 seconds and then put it back in. Very very simple to do and is a good thing to do every now and then. Your idle may become slightly higher until your ECU relearns itself, but typically it only takes between a day to a week, depending on how much driving you do. I reset my ECU after every mod or sensor replacement I do. That way the ECU can learn the behavior of the new sensor(s) straight away, rather than take weeks to notice the changes and slowly adjust itself :). You can also check for fault codes by using the 'Diagnosis' box near the engine bay fusebox. Resetting the ECU is also what you do to clear any fault codes once a specific problem has been fixed.