My Mercedes, C Class W201

[devils_smile]

simply WOW, i had been absent form this thread for a while and now reading the last few pages, some cracking work has been done to the car and you keep turning back time making it younger, these little stuff makes a huge difference
throughly enjoyed and also learnt things, keep it coming.

I'm doing everything I can while I'm free. Its not easy though I'm doing a 3 layer sound proofing of the rear cabin. Stinger Roadkill followed by MLV sheet ( I've ordered this from an online store but I know customs are a PITA and it will take a month to finally reach me even though the delivery time is 3-5 working days ) and finally a combination of a closed cell foam + that original underlay padding. Not gonna use any adhesive for the CCF yet because I will have to take it off when I get the MLV which will be put over the stinger.

The only flaw with the car right now is the steering play. I have about 20mm of play at the wheel and I have to keep tilting the wheel left right even on a straight road at high speeds. Kinda becomes a handful which might also mean I have to replace the suspension components soon since apart from a few things, everything is still original.

I found a LHD steering box but that too had play at the shaft. The guy was asking 14k so wondering if I should get that and try refurbishing it maybe?

[arzaam.bhatti]

I'm doing everything I can while I'm free. Its not easy though I'm doing a 3 layer sound proofing of the rear cabin. Stinger Roadkill followed by MLV sheet ( I've ordered this from an online store but I know customs are a PITA and it will take a month to finally reach me even though the delivery time is 3-5 working days ) and finally a combination of a closed cell foam + that original underlay padding. Not gonna use any adhesive for the CCF yet because I will have to take it off when I get the MLV which will be put over the stinger.

The only flaw with the car right now is the steering play. All the components of the suspension were replaced a year or so ago. I did all the experimental tests to check if any of those were worn but none are so the only possible cause is the steering box itself. I have about 20mm of play at the wheel and I have to keep tilting the wheel left right even on a straight road at high speeds. Kinda becomes a handfull.

I found a LHD s.box but that too had play at the shaft. The guy was asking 4k so wondering if I should get that and try refurbishing it maybe?

sound proofing is a really good addition an it will also help to add those reassuring thunks and clunks in the doors too. when i had my headliner re done in my Mercedes i also opted for additional heat shielding sheets(not sound) of stp to stop the headliner form ever going bad again and the cabin also remained noticeably cooler as well if you tapped the roof from outside it no longer sounded hollow.

yes i also suspect its a the steering box ,common issue on these models, since new will be really hard to find and expensive, a used one i guess would be better than a rebuild one in your case as even a rebuilt kit may not solve the play issue, mostly they solve leaking issues. wait and try to find a good used steering box.

[Xulfiqar]

I'm doing everything I can while I'm free. Its not easy though I'm doing a 3 layer sound proofing of the rear cabin. Stinger Roadkill followed by MLV sheet ( I've ordered this from an online store but I know customs are a PITA and it will take a month to finally reach me even though the delivery time is 3-5 working days ) and finally a combination of a closed cell foam + that original underlay padding. Not gonna use any adhesive for the CCF yet because I will have to take it off when I get the MLV which will be put over the stinger.

The only flaw with the car right now is the steering play. All the components of the suspension were replaced a year or so ago. I did all the experimental tests to check if any of those were worn but none are so the only possible cause is the steering box itself. I have about 20mm of play at the wheel and I have to keep tilting the wheel left right even on a straight road at high speeds. Kinda becomes a handfull.

I found a LHD s.box but that too had play at the shaft. The guy was asking 4k so wondering if I should get that and try refurbishing it maybe?

20mm (measured at wheel circumference) is considered normal freeplay in the steering gearbox. Mind you this is the internal play within the gearbox, If your wheel as dead play in the steering the input worm is worn out and you need to find a replacement gearbox.

If the freeplay is not dead type - then your car is aligned wrong - the alignment of any mercedes benz becomes a horror movie if you try to "japanify" it - take the alignment data with you to the alignment shop and hand it to the technician.

When aligning, set the caster first, camber second and toe last. Make sure the tooling is correct too.

[devils_smile]

20mm (measured at wheel circumference) is considered normal freeplay in the steering gearbox. Mind you this is the internal play within the gearbox, If your wheel as dead play in the steering the input worm is worn out and you need to find a replacement gearbox.

If the freeplay is not dead type - then your car is aligned wrong - the alignment of any mercedes benz becomes a horror movie if you try to "japanify" it - take the alignment data with you to the alignment shop and hand it to the technician.

When aligning, set the caster first, camber second and toe last. Make sure the tooling is correct too.

What I am wondering is if there is any shop in Islamabad where the guys know how to properly do an alignment for these cars. Btw, any idea where to find the correct alignment data for a 190D 2.0?

Mercedes Benz W201 Front Axle Specifications

Mercedes Benz W201 Rear Axle Specifications

About the free play, the steering needs a lot of small inputs even in a straight line. With the wheel centered, there is considerable movement required before any pressure is felt. I'll recheck the movement measured at the wheel again but as far I remember, it was over the allowed limit.

[Xulfiqar]

for such issues, I almost always found these and also 124 models to be aligned wrong. In some cases the wheel bearings were super loose and in some cases the ball joints were completely shot.

In some cases I found the car to be steering from the rear axle because the subframe bushings were rotten which were causing the entire rear end to shift sideways (which you then correct with the steering)

go talk to some alignment technicians - if they are oldschool and can align cars like 1980s crowns or even hiaces and hiluxes then they can align your car. But before you take it to them do your due diligence and repack the wheel bearings, adjust them correctly, check all joints and replace any worn items. (wider than normal tires will also cause it to follow ruts in the road)

[Xulfiqar]

Camber= -0.5deg+- 0.3deg
Caster= 9.75deg +- 0.5deg
Total toe-in = 0.35deg

Total rear toe-in= 0.4deg

please note that the degrees are mentioned in whole degrees (60 minutes to one) - and this is a somewhat generic alignment, different chassis have slightly different specs.

When aligning this car the procedure to follow is

drive up on rack
mount jig to wheels
position steering dead ahead and arrest it with seat belt or something
loosen locknuts on tie rod ends - adjust toe to zero
measure caster and camber (always measure at zero toe)
adjust caster and camber (whenever a slight change is made adjust toe to zero again)
when caster and camber are 100% correct then adjust final toe in.

the zeroing process is critical - if you dont adjust the toe to zero between camber and caster adjustments you will end up like a dog chasing its tail - this is because this car has 10 degrees caster angle.

finally adjust the rear toe from the tie rod looking joint (the bolt is offset and when rotated can move the link arm in and out)

[arzaam.bhatti]

20mm (measured at wheel circumference) is considered normal freeplay in the steering gearbox. Mind you this is the internal play within the gearbox, If your wheel as dead play in the steering the input worm is worn out and you need to find a replacement gearbox.

If the freeplay is not dead type - then your car is aligned wrong - the alignment of any mercedes benz becomes a horror movie if you try to "japanify" it - take the alignment data with you to the alignment shop and hand it to the technician.

When aligning, set the caster first, camber second and toe last. Make sure the tooling is correct too.

can toe and caster be adjusted on this car without special bolts, because on mine they were fixed

[devils_smile]

Camber= -0.5deg+- 0.3deg
Caster= 9.75deg +- 0.5deg
Total toe-in = 0.35deg

Total rear toe-in= 0.4deg

please note that the degrees are mentioned in whole degrees (60 minutes to one) - and this is a somewhat generic alignment, different chassis have slightly different specs.

When aligning this car the procedure to follow is

drive up on rack
mount jig to wheels
position steering dead ahead and arrest it with seat belt or something
loosen locknuts on tie rod ends - adjust toe to zero
measure caster and camber (always measure at zero toe)
adjust caster and camber (whenever a slight change is made adjust toe to zero again)
when caster and camber are 100% correct then adjust final toe in.

the zeroing process is critical - if you dont adjust the toe to zero between camber and caster adjustments you will end up like a dog chasing its tail - this is because this car has 10 degrees caster angle.

finally adjust the rear toe from the tie rod looking joint (the bolt is offset and when rotated can move the link arm in and out)

So before I head up to the shop i just saw this thread. A good DIY to find any flaws.

DIY Wheel Alignment Guide
@arzaam.bhatti just looking at the color's offered on the 201. Jesus, Mercedes had some insane paint options back in the days. Sad how we have to choose from a handful of paint options these days.

Code Color (* = metallic)
040 black (schwarz)
050 white (weiss)
122 pearl grey (perlmattgrau)*
124 arabian grey (arabergrau)
125 pearl grey (perlgrau)
131 pastellweiss
140 silver grey (silbergrau)
143 fern white
147 arctic white (arcticweiss)
149 polar white (polarweiss)
153 snow white (schneeweiss), glacier white
157 beige grey (beigegrau)
158 white grey (weissgrau)
160 tropic black*
162 blue grey (blaugrau)
164 dark grey (dunkelgrau)
166 blue grey (blaugrau)
169 light stone grey (steingrau hell)
171 stone grey (steingrau)
172 anthracite grey (anthrazitgrau)*
173 anthracite grey (anthrazitgrau)
178 medium grey (mittelgrau)*
180 silver grey (silbergrau)*
181 light beige (hellbeige)
185 melanite black*
186 cement grey (zementgrau)
189 greenish-black (emerald black) (smaragdsschwarz)*
190 graphite grey (graphitgrau)
195 meteor grey (meteorgrau)*
197 obsidian black*
199 black pearl (blue-black) (blauschwarz)*
218 lindgr?n
221 dark green (dunkelgr?n)
226 moss green (moosgr?n)
229 medium green (mittelgr?n)
231 perlmutter gr?n
249 spruce green (malachite) (malachit)*
254 pine green*
256 crystal green*
259 forest green (waldgr?n)
260 oasis green (oasengr?n)
261 willow green*
268 dark green (dunkelgr?n) blaugr?n?
269 tourmaline green (turmalingr?n)*
270 blue green (blaugr?n)
272 amazon green (amazonitgr?n)*
274 light green (hellgr?n)*
278 tundra green (tundragr?n)
279 vivianite green (vivianitgr?n)*
282 jungle green (dschungelgr?n)*
291 dark olive (dunkeloliv)
304 horizon blue (horizontblau)
312 labrador blue
317 grey blue (graublau)
320 blue (blau)
332 dark blue (dunkelblau)
334 light blue (hellblau)
335 mercedesblau
339 violane (violan)*
341 aquamarine blue (aquamarinblau)*
348 ice blue (pearl blue) (perlblau)*
350 medium blue (mittelblau)
353 light blue (hellblau), teallite blue
3538 chassisrot
355 diamond blue (diamintblau)*
356 light blue (hellblau)
359 tanzanite blue (tansanitblau)
366 azurite blue (azuritblue)*
375 atoll blue*
380 delphinblau
381 violet (floraviolett)
387 blue (blau)*
396 medium blue (mittelblau)*
404 milan brown (milanbraun)*
406 cayenne orange (cayenneorange)
408 havana brown (havannabraun)
409 dark brown (dunkelbraun)
4100 cement grey (zementgrau)
412 beige
419 ikonengold*
4200 light blue (hellblau)
422 byzanzgold*
423 dark tobacco brown (tabakbraun dunkel)
424 topaz brown (topasbraun)
427 russet brown
430 autumn beige (herbstbeige)
432 havana brown* (also bisonbraun?)
439 cream (creme)
441 desert taupe (impala brown) (hellbeige)*
442 deer brown (rehbraun)
444 sand beige
459 maroon brown
460 dark red brown (dunkelrotbraun)
461 bronze brown (broncebraun)*
462 beige*
463 copper (kupfer)*
467 sandbeige*
470 coloradobeige
473 champagne (champagnermetallic)*
475 nutria*
476 golden brown
479 walnut brown (also moorbraun?)
480 manganese brown*
481 blackberry (bornite) (bornit)*
482 apricot orange
483 volcanic red (vulcanrot)*
485 rosewood (rosenholz)*
501 orient red
504 english red (englischrot)
512 garnet red (almadine red) (almandinrot)*
513 bordeau red (bordeauxrot)
514 carnelian (agate) red (karneolrot)
516 medium red (mittelrot)
519 red, light red (rot)
525 brilliant red (brillantrot)*
526 mercedes red (mercedesrot)
5328 standard blue (standardblau)
534 fire red (feuerrot)
538 red brown (rotbraun)
540 desert red (barolo red) (barolorot)
542 dark red (dunkelrot)
543 strawberry red (erdbeerrot)
567 maroon (lasurrot)* (also titanite red, titanitrot)*
568 signal red (signalrot) (hellrot)
571 brilliant red (rot)*
572 ruby red (rubin)*
573 dark bordeau red (dunkelbordeauxrot)
574 spindelrot
576 red (rot)
581 inca red*
582 imperial red (imperialrot)
585 mesa red
586 - Magma Red (Magmarot)
587 cabernet red (pajettrot)*
589 jupiter red
594 ember red (glutrot)
597 saturn red*
606 maple yellow (ahorngelb)
608 ivory (elfenbein)
618 mimosa yellow (mimosangelb)
620 light ivory (hellelfenbein)
623 light ivory (hellelfinbein)
6277 standard green (standardgr?n)
6285 pine green (fichtengr?n)
6286 unimog green (unimog-gr?n)
630 corn yellow (maisgelb)
651 pueblo beige
658 ivory (elfenbein)
670 light ivory (hellelfenbein)
673 sahara yellow (saharagelb)
680 sun yellow
681 manila beige (also weizengelb?)
684 pastel beige
690 light ochre
691 light yellow (lichtgelb)
693 travertine beige*
696 night black
702 smoke silver (rauchsilber)*
706 moonlight silver (mondsilber)*
716 grey beige (graubeige)
717 papyrus white (papyrosweiss)
7186 pearl grey (perlgrau)
7187 standard grey (standardgrau)
721 onyx grey (onyxgrau)*
723 cubanite silver (cubanitsilber)*
726 beige grey (beigegrau)
728 beige grey (beigegrau)*
733 phantom grey (phantomgrau)
735 astral silver (astralsilber) (bundt style wheels)*
737 classic white (classicweiss)
740 pastel grey (pastellgrau)
744 brilliant silver (brillantsilber)*
745 crystal silver*
747 perlite grey*
748 comet grey*
751 ascot grey (liasgrau)
752 carrara grey
753 (tektitgrau)
761 polar silver*
791 dune gold*
801 mangrove green*
803 moss green
815 agate green (achatgr?n)
816 agate green, andradite green
822 forest green
824 sea green (seegr?n)
825 deep green (tiefgr?n)
834 moss green (moosgr?n)*
858 mesa red?????
860 green (gr?n)
861 silver green (silbergr?n)*
862 pine green (piniengr?n)*
867 kaledoniengr?n
870 nickelgr?n
874 citrus green (citrusgr?n)*
875 mango green
876 cypress green (zypressengr?n)*
877 blue green (also petrol?)*
880 cactus green (agavengr?n)
881 thistle green* (also silberdistel?)
888 teal blue (beryl) (beryll)*
891 alexandrite green (alexandritgr?n)*
900 deep blue (surfblau)
903 blue (blau)
904 midnight blue (dark blue) (dunkelblau)
906 grey blue (graublau)*
917 aqua (aquablau)
920 deep blue (tiefblau)
922 pastel blue (pastellblau)
929 nautical blue (nautikblau)*
930 silver blue*
931 magnetite blue (magnetitblau)*
932 lapis blue (lapisblau)*
933 deep-sea blue (tiefseeblau)*
934 china blue (chinablau)
940 marine blue
941 (aragonitblau)
945 lapis blue (lapisblau)
949 cascade blue (kaskadenblau)
958 reef blue*
960 light ochre????? also alabaster white?

lower panel (cladding) codes

NO.7700 ALTO GREY I 040 ,122 ,199 * I
NO.7738 SATO GREY I 147 * I
NO.7176 MUSSEL GREY I 172 ,651 ,702 * I
NO.6211 KIWI GREEN I 249E,254 ,261 ,815 * I
NO.6856 KIWI GREEN I 249F,256 * I
NO.5301 ANDOR BLUE I 348 ,355 ,900 ,929 * I
NO.8477 CHINCHILLA I 432 ,441 * I
NO.8482 CHIMNEY BROWN I 485 ,475 * I
NO.7166 VIOLETT GREY I 481 * I
NO.3521 NAVARRA RED I 512 ,540 ,587 * I
NO.3526 CORSAIR RED I 568A* I
NO.3515 TARTAN RED I 568B* I
NO.1611 SINA BEIGE I 623A* I
NO.1631 SAFARI BEIGE I 623B/C* I
NO.1658 LIGHT IVORY I 623D* I
NO.7177 STRATUS GREY I 735 ,751 * I
NO.7181 STRATUS GREY I 744 ,752 * I
NO.6212 TAXUS GREEN I 877 * I
NO.6250 LAGO I 888 * I
NO.5309 RIO BLUE I 904 * I
NO 343O from 1978: AVANTGARDE BLUE METALLIC
NO 343U from 01.01.1992: AVANTGARDE AZURRO
A = UP TO IDENT NO.: F 636607 I
B = FROM IDENT NO.: F 636608 I
C = UP TO IDENT NO.: F 785134 I
D = FROM IDENT NO.: F 785135 I
E = UP TO IDENT NO.: 01/91 I
F = FROM IDENT NO.: 01/91 I

[arzaam.bhatti]

haha yes my car paint code is this

189 greenish-black (emerald black) (smaragdsschwarz)*

i pronounced smaragdsschwarz once to describe the paint color while paying token tax and once to the guy at detailing crew, both were left scratching their heads.

[Xulfiqar]

can toe and caster be adjusted on this car without special bolts, because on mine they were fixed

Old school Benz are adjustable

[devils_smile]

Shahnawaz has that old glysantin coolant available I think as well as the newer blue/green formulations

Otherwise I remember there is a guy on main defence boulevard having glysantin coolants and way cheaper too

Sent from my iPhone 6Plus using PW Forums

Just drove the car on the highway in the cold. My temperature gauge was on 85 while driving in Islamabad but the minute I drove at highway speeds for 20 or so mins in the cold, I gazed at my temp gauge and it was sitting at 60. The thermostat is a goner and needs replacement. I have a brand new one in the garage so I can pretty much do that myself.

I rang shahnawaz today and they said they did not have the yellow coolant but can arrange it and I should contact them tomorrow. I wasn't even quoted a price so I'll see how they will be ripping me off I asked them to get me a gallon of it which rounds of to approx 3.8L. The coolant capacity is 8.5L on my car and MB state in the service manual to use 4.25L of antifreeze for protection upto -32C ( or -37C, dont remember ). So would 3.8L suffice, mixed with 4.7L of distilled water ( I have gallons of those )?

Also there was some mention of running citric acid through the system to clean out any gunk. I would actually prefer to flush the system and make sure its CLEAN even if I have to use something like the CA.

Sections from the service manual:

A. De-oiling (required only if anti-corrosion oil had been filled in)

1) Completely drain coolant (20-010).
2) Remove coolant thermostat (20-l 10).
3) On vehicles with and without air condit,ioning, set heater control to full capacity.
4) Fill cooling system with a 5 % solution of water and a neutral cleaning agent or with a mildly alcaline cleaner, such as P 3-Croni (supplier: Henkel) or Grisiron 7220 (supplier: Farbwerke Hoechst). Attention! On these vehicles (light alloy radiator) do not use heavily alcaline cleaning agents such as P 3-Standard (supplier: Henkel).
5) Run engine warm at medium speed up to approx. 80 ‘C (176 OF) and hold at this temperature for approx. 5 minutes.
6) Stop engine and let cooling system cool down to approx. 50 ‘C (122 “F).
7) Completely drain solution.
8) Immediately thereafter, fill cooling system twice with fresh water, run warm (approx. 5 minutes) and drain.

B. Decalcification, derusting

Prior to decalcification and if anti-corrosion oil has been filled in, de-oil even if there is no visible oiling UP.

1) Fill cooling system with a 10 % (100 g/l) solution of citric acid (available from the chemical trade).
2) Run engine warm at medium speed up to approx. 80 ‘C (176 OF)’ and hold for approx. 10 minutes at this temperature, while proceeding according to item 3 section A “De-oiling”.
3) Stop engine and let cool down to approx. 50 ‘C (122 OF).
4) Completely drain decalcification solution.
5) Flush cooling system at least 3 times with fresh water while running engine for at least 5 minutes with each flushing charge. Badly calcified cooling system may require a repetition of the treatment. Always prepare a fresh decalcification solution and repeat flushing steps.
6) Install coolant thermostat with new sealing ring (20-l 10).
7) Fill in coolant (20-010).

[Xulfiqar]

your car was not shipped with the anticorrossion oil, that was specced in mercedes benz from "pardada ke zamanay ki gaadi" however if your car suffered a head gasket leak a deoiling is necessary which is done with a non-foaming soap.

In 95% of usual cases just a straight citric acid flush is what is required. And its pretty easy to do on MB 60x diesels too. Start by draining the radiator and block (both drains have pipe nipples to make this job neat n clean)

once its drained, remove a heater hose pipe from head and backflush the system with garden pipe, let the water drain from both drains. Remove and close the system. - If you want to go real mercedes benz way you will need to make an adapter that can go in the top radiator pipe (buy generic spare radiator pipe from parts store) - the adapter should accept your garden hose fitting. This is the flush motive force (heater pipe can also achieve same result but MB way is "more german aka special tool required aka - kharcha)

remove the thermostat and find a rubber cork to plug the bypass hole in the thermostat housing - this way the pump will circulate the coolant 100% to the radiator. Open bypass hole and no thermostat will allow a max of 20% flow to radiator. (MB also sell a service tool called a stuck open thermostat)

prepare citric acid mix in hot water and fill system up start engine run for 30 minutes at fast idle (drive it around the neighborhood) run the heater to let the heater get clean too, let cool down, drain system, fill with water and some soda to kill the acid - flush again for 10 minutes with both drains open, once its flushed, fill with distilled water or RO water completely - drain it out.

remove your make shift thermostat thingie - install new stat, pack it up

find BASF glysantin G05 (same as MB original yellow), fill er up from the top radiator pipe into the engine first till the engine wont take any more coolant, install the pipe to radiator, fill up the rest from the side tank. Pour the conc. first in there (exactly half quantity of cooling system) - then top up with water. This ensures exact 50% conc.

If you dont fill up the engine like I mentioned you will have an air lock the size of balochistan province in your engine.

[devils_smile]

your car was not shipped with the anticorrossion oil, that was specced in mercedes benz from "pardada ke zamanay ki gaadi" however if your car suffered a head gasket leak a deoiling is necessary which is done with a non-foaming soap.

In 95% of usual cases just a straight citric acid flush is what is required. And its pretty easy to do on MB 60x diesels too. Start by draining the radiator and block (both drains have pipe nipples to make this job neat n clean)

once its drained, remove a heater hose pipe from head and backflush the system with garden pipe, let the water drain from both drains. Remove and close the system. - If you want to go real mercedes benz way you will need to make an adapter that can go in the top radiator pipe (buy generic spare radiator pipe from parts store) - the adapter should accept your garden hose fitting. This is the flush motive force (heater pipe can also achieve same result but MB way is "more german aka special tool required aka - kharcha)

remove the thermostat and find a rubber cork to plug the bypass hole in the thermostat housing - this way the pump will circulate the coolant 100% to the radiator. Open bypass hole and no thermostat will allow a max of 20% flow to radiator. (MB also sell a service tool called a stuck open thermostat)

prepare citric acid mix in hot water and fill system up start engine run for 30 minutes at fast idle (drive it around the neighborhood) run the heater to let the heater get clean too, let cool down, drain system, fill with water and some soda to kill the acid - flush again for 10 minutes with both drains open, once its flushed, fill with distilled water or RO water completely - drain it out.

remove your make shift thermostat thingie - install new stat, pack it up

find BASF glysantin G05 (same as MB original yellow), fill er up from the top radiator pipe into the engine first till the engine wont take any more coolant, install the pipe to radiator, fill up the rest from the side tank. Pour the conc. first in there (exactly half quantity of cooling system) - then top up with water. This ensures exact 50% conc.

If you dont fill up the engine like I mentioned you will have an air lock the size of balochistan province in your engine.

Car's never suffered a head gasket leak so I can skip the de-oiling part. Pretty sure I do need the citric acid flush though.

Just looking at the image from the SM, I have to block the bypass hole marked "C" correct?

Regarding the citric acid, I found a online shop that sells the MB citric acid flush powder (500g) for like 13 bucks (https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/0019862171/ES1609953/). But is it worth getting that or should I stick to a local find here? Tartaric acid if I remember correctly from a previous thread you replied to. Just wondering where I can possibly find it.

I had a look at the thermostat that I found in the garage. It's a new 85* one. The service manual says the 601 uses a 85* stat so I'm good to go with this one correct?

I just put in everything you told me using google and got this link. Made things even easier with the pic's. I'll still stick to some of the things you said how to do.

Mercedes Diesel Citrus Flush

[Xulfiqar]

Car's never suffered a head gasket leak so I can skip the de-oiling part. Pretty sure I do need the citric acid flush though.

Just looking at the image from the SM, I have to block the bypass hole marked "C" correct?

Regarding the citric acid, I found a online shop that sells the MB citric acid flush powder (500g) for like 13 bucks (https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/0019862171/ES1609953/). But is it worth getting that or should I stick to a local find here? Tartaric acid if I remember correctly from a previous thread you replied to. Just wondering where I can possibly find it.

I had a look at the thermostat that I found in the garage. It's a new 85* one. The service manual says the 601 uses a 85* stat so I'm good to go with this one correct?

I just put in everything you told me using google and got this link. Made things even easier with the pic's. I'll still stick to some of the things you said how to do.

tartaric acid can be bought from "parchoon" ki dukaan - it will be food grade and hence expensive, commercial cleaning citric acid is cheap and can be had from chemical supply markets.

your engine takes the 85C thermostat. Make sure the replacement one you are putting in is good quality and actually works.

I cannot see the picture you mention for the bypass hole, its very easy to identify the bypass hole - when you remove the thermostat itself you will see a hole right behind it inside the thermostat/waterpump housing, that is the bypass port. Use a cork to close it shut. Make sure cork does not interfere with other flow.

[devils_smile]

tartaric acid can be bought from "parchoon" ki dukaan - it will be food grade and hence expensive, commercial cleaning citric acid is cheap and can be had from chemical supply markets.

your engine takes the 85C thermostat. Make sure the replacement one you are putting in is good quality and actually works.

I cannot see the picture you mention for the bypass hole, its very easy to identify the bypass hole - when you remove the thermostat itself you will see a hole right behind it inside the thermostat/waterpump housing, that is the bypass port. Use a cork to close it shut. Make sure cork does not interfere with other flow.

Fixed the image and link to the pictorial how-to guide. The thermostat is a wahler 85C one. I can test it in a pan of water to see if it opens while heating it up.

[Xulfiqar]

yes - that is the bypass port - notice its right behind the thermostat, the thermostat closes it when it extends fully only, in most usual driving conditions the system runs in mixed mode to reduce pump drag on the engine and to keep it warm too.

anyway - the dieselgiant link is ok but not exactly for your engine, your engine has different thermostat setup and also a different block drain. The concept is still the same though.

The "tricky" bit is ensuring least amount of air in the system when refilling for which I told you to fill the engine from the upper hose pipe first - this way you get a full charge of coolant with no drama of "bachay ko dakaar dilana"

[devils_smile]

Been trying to find the genuine yellow coolant or the glysantin g05 but having no luck. Every mercedes parts dealer shop has the new blue coolant and I tried a couple of chemical shops including pyrochem but they all have the G48 coolant. @arzaam.bhatti, do you know any shops who might have it in lahore? Or have their contact numbers so I can give em a call?

Sent a message to Valvoline regarding the availability of Zerex G05. I doubt they stock coolants though.

[arzaam.bhatti]

Been trying to find the genuine yellow coolant or the glysantin g05 but having no luck. Every mercedes parts dealer shop has the new blue coolant and I tried a couple of chemical shops including pyrochem but they all have the G48 coolant. @arzaam.bhatti, do you know any shops who might have it in lahore? Or have their contact numbers so I can give em a call?

Sent a message to Valvoline regarding the availability of Zerex G05. I doubt they stock coolants though.

no i dont, when i bought my car i check from one shop in lahore in dha boulevard and even he didn't have the yellow coolant but told that it would arrive soon but it never did even when i checked later( i also dont currently have the number of it either), the newer one is incompatible with your car ? or you could give the part number of it to shahnawaz and they can definitely order it though they will take advance payment and 3 weeks form germany, but they can most definately order it.

[Xulfiqar]

the new G48 is usable in your engine. The reason the old G-05 was best was because of the dash of nitrites in the add pack which really helps keep the cavitation down in the engine block.

the new blue G48 - when mixed correct is also ok to use, the idea is to get a full 50% charge in the system. The blue is easier to check level of as the old yellow coolant looks transparent (like water) in the tank and you need to shake the car to see the level in the tank.

If you have any contacts in dubai you can buy motorcraft gold coolant which is actually BASF Glysantin 05 in Ford packaging.

Volvo trucks in Pakistan also have the ultra heavy duty fleet coolant they use in trucks, so do Hinopak motors. Make sure that it is the "extended life fleet coolant" and should not say "SCA add pack type" Cummins agents and CAT agents in Pakistan also sell their ELC coolants which have 1 million kms life.

If you cannot find anything then the caltex coolant in Pakistan is also perfectly usable in your engine provided you flush it out really good and burp all air from the engine.

[devils_smile]

no i dont, when i bought my car i check from one shop in lahore in dha boulevard and even he didn't have the yellow coolant but told that it would arrive soon but it never did even when i checked later( i also dont currently have the number of it either), the newer one is incompatible with your car ? or you could give the part number of it to shahnawaz and they can definitely order it though they will take advance payment and 3 weeks form germany, but they can most definately order it.

According to this, the glysantin G05 and G48 should both be compatibale with the car.

https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/325.0_en.html

Also, I asked on the 190 forums and most of the people there are using the Blue ethylene glycol coolant as well.

That being said, I am getting a few things from amazon around February through a courier and if need be, I can add a gallon of the Zerex G05 / Glysantin G05 to it.