Nissan B14 2.0D

[Xulfiqar]

It needs very hot temperature to move - its a wax pellet inside like the thermostat valve of the cooling system, its impossible to move the plunger by hand - unless you pour hot water through it, try cleaning it with vinegar or citric acid - they will eat the rust. get some water boiling, put a funnel on the CSD pipe and let the boiling water sit in the funnel, it will heat up the wax pellet inside, causing it to move.

[Xulfiqar]

First there was a lot of garbage in the lines, which was blocking the passage of hot coolant, which i removed. Then poured brake oil to remove rust. Still it is stuck and does not move at all.

with the engine running - see that you are getting coolant from the lines. - btw now you can also see that the use of coolant here would have helped in keeping those lines clean - not that its your fault or anything but just an eye opener isnt it?

[Dani80pk]

with the engine running - see that you are getting coolant from the lines. - btw now you can also see that the use of coolant here would have helped in keeping those lines clean - not that its your fault or anything but just an eye opener isnt it?

It does is. I am using Caltex Coolent from the day i have bought this car. Coolent line going into CSD plunger is free of any blockage cuz it gets super hot when temp needle at half. Any way I will try again to free it up using the liquids you mentioned. Hope it helps.

[Dani80pk]

@ all, Some eight months back I had started this thread to get knowledge and guidance about buying this NIssan B14 Diesel. I am very grateful to all those who helped me out in all these days (especially zulfiqar Bhai).

NOW, I am up with same question as of that Nissan. I am going to buy a 2000 Prado Five Door, Diesel Turbo, 1KD-FTV Engine. What should I see in SUV before buying. Engine in particular and other systems in general. I am looking forward for valued guidance of all in this regard.

Cheers

[Xulfiqar]

get it scanned - and get the diesel injectors tested with a toyota intelligent tester, ask for maintenance done and also look for signs of badly done repairs.

You might have to remove all the air pipes, intercooler, manifold, EGR etc and have it throughly cleaned, it gets loaded with black soot and gunk and results in poor performance.

Verify that the fan clutch is working and the engine is cooled with coolant, if the fan clutch is sticky or dead - you need a new clutch ASAP. if cooled with plain rusty water -leave the car, it will be headache.

verify that the glow plugs are in good order - if anyone is blown or weak, you are looking at a very expensive procedure, as the plugs are about 7 inches long and break in the head, requiring drilling it out.

generally see that the engine starts on first attempt from dead cold with its prescribed glow time, and also starts on warm with little effort, inspect for blowbly at 1500 rpm.

I beleive after the nissan you are qualified enough to inspect a diesel.

[Dani80pk]

My bad. The Nissan's head gasket has blown due to my stupid mistake. I forgot to place radiator cap after checking coolant level and it gets super heated resulting in blown head gaskit and displacement of three valves. I have arranged new genuine gasket and valves, seals and gates. However i could not find new bolts for head and therefore old bolts are now re tightened. I somewhere heard that CD20 uses one time use only bolts (torque to yield bolts if I remember). Now what bad could happen if the old bolts are being used. Where I can find new head bolts in Karachi. One more thing, whomever I have inquired about new bolts are laughing at me saying old bolts will be just fine. No need to get new bolts. Experts advise needed. Regards,

[Dani80pk]

I think experts have missed my post

[Xulfiqar]

yes the nissan does use one time use torque to yield bolts, and they become extended and weak and do not clamp the head tight enough after one use, New bolts are not available in Pakistan as the spare parts sellers and mechanics still think that all cars are Ford Model T.

You can order new bolts over the internet, and follow correct torquing procedure, the factory manual procedure might sound downright scary as it asks for tightening about 5 times, but thats what it takes to hold down the head to the block.

Ask any mechanic in Karachi why the 1KZ and 1KD head gasket fail so often after they replace the original one. the reason they give is that the bolts are not good quality (hahaha) and they have to install extra washers under the bolt head (ROFL) - That engine also requires new bolts once removed, the 2C diesel also requires new bolts.

[syedadeelhassan]

I have had Nissan Sunny B14 2.0D from last 6 months. My car is in excellent condition - both interior and exterior wise (no touch-ups at all). The total mileage of the engine is 116,000 Km. I replaced the timing belt from Nissan Motors (Rawalpindi) when I purchased this car. The drive is very nice - apparently, no problem except following: -

1. The fuel consumption is very high. It gives me around 10Km/L within City along with A/C (whereas I expect it be around 15Km/L).
2. The temperature gauge touches to the maximum on the long route. It happened twice whilst travelling on GT Road in month of May and June.

Can anybody suggest me how to overcome these problems?

I have also come to know about Econokit [www.econokit.fr/] that is claimed to be very helpful in fuel efficiency. Does anybody hold the experience of Econokit?

Thanks ...

[Xulfiqar]

you need to make sure you dont have any air pockets in the engine cooling system, there is a bleed bolt at the back near the thermostat housing, you also need to make sure your engine is not rusted up from inside - it severely hampers cooling.

Lastly you need to make double sure that the timing belts are lined up correctly, Ive posted within this same thread how to correctly align the timing belts on the CD20 engine with the vacuum pump on the side like your engine.

The injection break pressure and timing should be spot on, if it has been "tuned" by our zabardast diesel shops your hopes of getting the correct 16 to 18 km/lit are very slim. Why dont you skim through the entire thread and compare your engine with it.

[syedadeelhassan]

Dear Xulfiqar,

I really appreciate your prompt response - many thanks.

I went through couple of initial pages of this thread but could not understand each & every bit of it (though I got some of the points). In terms of Car's mechanics, I am afraid I am not very techy. However, as per your advice, I shall go through entire thread, and shall try to grab it as much as possible. I shall get back to this thread again in case I come up with any further questions.

Best Regards,
Adeel Hassan
Islamabad

[Dani80pk]

Just to share a recent development. My car's head gasket was blown (thanks to my stupid mistake). I replaced the head gasket and what. The new gasket blows again in 4 days as the car got super heated. Another gasket change and i took the car to superhighway for test drive at night with fans put to direct. I took my mechanic along to let him know what is happening. After traveling some 70ms, we stopped at a hotel to have dinner. Opened the radiator cap and there were a lot of bubbles "jhaag" at idle speed. I stressed him that head bolts are not properly tightened and cooling system is taking air from cylinder head. My mechanic agreed to my diagnosis and asked me to come tomorrow evening. Next day I bought a torque wrench and asked him to tighten the bolts again according to specs. 3times tightening then loosening and again tightening to specified torque. After doing this exercise, all malfunctioning have disappeared. No bubbles, car is not reducing coolant like it was doing before. No missing whatsoever. However there is still a jerk when I pick it up rapidly. Can't figure out what is causing this jerk. I blame the incorrect timing as culprit. Xulfiqar Bhai whats your take on it?? Also, when I pick the car at 2nd gear with almost at halt speed, it gives a lot of smoke. What is this about. Please put some light on this aspect too.

The moral of story was how badly things can turn out if the head bolts are left loose even on micro scale on this engine.

cheers

[Xulfiqar]

Firstly the head bolts are stretch type on this engine meaning you need new ones when replacing the gasket and tighten like the factory manual shows you, it may seem SCARY - poop your pants tight. But that is the correct procedure.

The massive smoke at moving off and jerking is a classic case of bad timing, re-adjust it. Most probably the pump timing is not correct. (I beleive you can do it easily by now) Also check the electrical connections on the pump, if the out solenoid is sticky (big round one) the pump will go into massive advance and the engine will buck, it will sound horrible too.

[Dani80pk]

Alright, after sometime, I am back with a question. Why back compression (blow by) occur in a diesel engine and how it can be cured? My Nissan is giving blow, which mechanics term as a weak engine. Smoke is there at high revs. Last night I changed diesel filter and fill it up ATF as suggested by Zulfiqar bhai a number of times. The engine seems like heavy from then and do not accelerate smoothly. Jerks are there in cold running. Car starts on half self in the morning with one preglow. Please advise. Cheers

[Xulfiqar]

blowby is when combustion gases get into the crankcase beyond the rings or the valve guides - mostly rings - NOW COMES THE TRICKY PART.

If your understanding or rings is that they seal the bore under their own tension then you are completely wrong. The rings seal to the bore under the compression load of the air being compressed, And in a diesel injection timing occurs after TDC but before the piston starts moving down (in dead zone), this causes the combustion gases to get behind the rings and expand them out causing them to bite into the cylinder walls. If your injection timing is not correct you will have blowby and also oil consumption and our mechanics will love to fleece money from you. It is because of this purpose when I rebuild an engine I start it and take it for a drive after checking it for 10-20 minutes for leaks etc, the loading and unloading (overrun) will seat the rings very very nicely, if you let it idle for days with no load then you will be wiping off the cross hatch patterns and glazing the rings which will have poor sealing properties.

Bucking/misfiring is bad fuelling, if your engine sounds like marbles on idle while bucking then the injectors are sticking or bad. Neat liqui moly diesel purge fed directly to the engine with fuel in and out isolated and dunked into a bottle of purge will help lots in cleaning out any gunk in the pump and nozzles.

A diesel should smoke at high revs (slightly and then back off when the pump's rpm governor stops fuelling holding the engine at redline). however if your max load screw is disturbed by mechanic or pump waala without measuring it on a bench - then your engine smoke/rpm limiter would be off.

bucking and misfiring is also caused by air in the fuel lines or one or two bad glow plugs, but you will have a hard start if that happened.

You should however check the valve clearances (if possible)

btw you are supposed to check blowby at 1800 rpm with a piece of paper over the oil cap, on idle it will be fluttering/blowing upwards - rev it and it will go dead (no flutter) some engines will also start sucking it in.

If you pass the paper test - then you do not need to worry, an old rule for diesels is that then when the blowby comes to a point of shooting off the oil cap as soon as you loosen it - you have blowby, otherwise relax, drive the thing - it will go for another lifetime unless the engine was "MADE IN CHINA"

[Dani80pk]

blowby is when combustion gases get into the crankcase beyond the rings or the valve guides - mostly rings - NOW COMES THE TRICKY PART.

If your understanding or rings is that they seal the bore under their own tension then you are completely wrong. The rings seal to the bore under the compression load of the air being compressed, And in a diesel injection timing occurs after TDC but before the piston starts moving down (in dead zone), this causes the combustion gases to get behind the rings and expand them out causing them to bite into the cylinder walls. If your injection timing is not correct you will have blowby and also oil consumption and our mechanics will love to fleece money from you. It is because of this purpose when I rebuild an engine I start it and take it for a drive after checking it for 10-20 minutes for leaks etc, the loading and unloading (overrun) will seat the rings very very nicely, if you let it idle for days with no load then you will be wiping off the cross hatch patterns and glazing the rings which will have poor sealing properties.

Bucking/misfiring is bad fuelling, if your engine sounds like marbles on idle while bucking then the injectors are sticking or bad. Neat liqui moly diesel purge fed directly to the engine with fuel in and out isolated and dunked into a bottle of purge will help lots in cleaning out any gunk in the pump and nozzles.

A diesel should smoke at high revs (slightly and then back off when the pump's rpm governor stops fuelling holding the engine at redline). however if your max load screw is disturbed by mechanic or pump waala without measuring it on a bench - then your engine smoke/rpm limiter would be off.

bucking and misfiring is also caused by air in the fuel lines or one or two bad glow plugs, but you will have a hard start if that happened.

You should however check the valve clearances (if possible)

btw you are supposed to check blowby at 1800 rpm with a piece of paper over the oil cap, on idle it will be fluttering/blowing upwards - rev it and it will go dead (no flutter) some engines will also start sucking it in.

If you pass the paper test - then you do not need to worry, an old rule for diesels is that then when the blowby comes to a point of shooting off the oil cap as soon as you loosen it - you have blowby, otherwise relax, drive the thing - it will go for another lifetime unless the engine was "MADE IN CHINA"

Zulfiqar Bhai, I can see visible smoke from the dip stick hole or even oil cap hole when removed. BUT when I put a piece of paper on oil cover it does flutter at idle and on revving the engine, it goes silent. I have replaced the nozzles (by the way please let me know the number of those whisper nozzles you told me to use on CD20). My mechanic says there is blowby but it is normal (within limits) and that engine is ok. Other than that where ever I goes, every one says engine has finished its life go for overhaul. I am sort of confused over the issue. What are the signs of finished diesel engines. How can I figure out whether my engine is ok or needs overhauling. I believe my mechanic is correct as other than him where ever I have taken this car, I came back with ruined engine, which I again took to my mechanic who adjust it again. Please advise.

[Dani80pk]

Zulfiqar Bhai, Is it possible to stop blow by by changing head gasket to genuine one and replacing rings with the original ones, if found. Also, does timing plays any role in blow by of engine. Thanks.

[syncview]

Zulfiqar Bhai, Is it possible to stop blow by by changing head gasket to genuine one and replacing rings with the original ones, if found. Also, does timing plays any role in blow by of engine. Thanks.

blowby is when combustion gases get into the crankcase beyond the rings or the valve guides - mostly rings - NOW COMES THE TRICKY PART.

If your understanding or rings is that they seal the bore under their own tension then you are completely wrong. The rings seal to the bore under the compression load of the air being compressed, And in a diesel injection timing occurs after TDC but before the piston starts moving down (in dead zone), this causes the combustion gases to get behind the rings and expand them out causing them to bite into the cylinder walls. If your injection timing is not correct you will have blowby and also oil consumption and our mechanics will love to fleece money from you. It is because of this purpose when I rebuild an engine I start it and take it for a drive after checking it for 10-20 minutes for leaks etc, the loading and unloading (overrun) will seat the rings very very nicely, if you let it idle for days with no load then you will be wiping off the cross hatch patterns and glazing the rings which will have poor sealing properties.

btw you are supposed to check blowby at 1800 rpm with a piece of paper over the oil cap, on idle it will be fluttering/blowing upwards - rev it and it will go dead (no flutter) some engines will also start sucking it in.

If you pass the paper test - then you do not need to worry, an old rule for diesels is that then when the blowby comes to a point of shooting off the oil cap as soon as you loosen it - you have blowby, otherwise relax, drive the thing - it will go for another lifetime unless the engine was "MADE IN CHINA"

There you go.

[Dani80pk]

Alhamdulillah. Finally, car back to position where it was 8 months back. It took me eight months to teach/ convince my mechanic as to how this engine is adjusted. Timing exactly by book. Pump timing exactly by book (As told by Zulfiqar bhai is this thread). Pump advance by book (though CSD is still not functioning even after all efforts to free it up). Head bolts torque as per specs. The only thing out of specs (which I doubt, may be they are fine) are injection pressure of pump and nozzles. Smoke non existent till full throttle, pick-up is mind blowing, no rattling sound while driving (though there is a very little knocking when car standing at idle). In open it does not feel like a diesel. Thanks Zulfiqar Bhai for all your advices and knowledge. Cheers

[Xulfiqar]

your welcome - and I beleive you have been infected with the diesel virus now.