Nissan B14 2.0D

[Xulfiqar]

make a rig from a radiator cap, a pressure gauge and some sort of pump, bicycle pump will work, you need to cut the radiator cap valve off and dill it to accept a pipe nipple, then you need a T piece to attach a pressure gauge to it, Pressurize to 16 psi and check for pressure drop, if you see the pressure drop you have a leak, find it. If you dont see any leak then it might be inside the engine (i.e. head gasket) - you need to check the compression for this, And keep in mind that the head bolts are not reusable on this engine if you want to follow factory torque spec. The factory tightens the head to the block like a gorilla.also just as a free test, where does the temperature needle stay when normally driving? and when you shutoff the engine, check the overflow bottle, the coolant should start to get pulled back into the engine. It should not be boiling over or bubbling away (boilover or bubbles mean that the system is internally leaking.

[syedadeelhassan]

Thanks for your feedback - I will give a try by making a rig from a radiator cap, and see if there are any leaks.

As I asked earlier, how can I ensure that engine is/isn't rusted from inside? If engine is found rusted then how can I repair it? Please elaborate.

[Uzair369]

[h=5]Dear syedadeelhassan Bhai![/h]
I bought Nissan Sunny B 14 2.0 D a few months back. It is the first time i am using a diesel engine car so dont know much about it.

Could you please tell me what amount of engine oil is used in it? is it 4 Liters or 3.5???

[syedadeelhassan]

Dear Uzair - I use 5 Liters of Delo Gold for Sunny 2.0D.

[Xulfiqar]

Thanks for your feedback - I will give a try by making a rig from a radiator cap, and see if there are any leaks. As I asked earlier, how can I ensure that engine is/isn't rusted from inside? If engine is found rusted then how can I repair it? Please elaborate.

descale it with citric acid solution (10% strength) with thermostat removed. It will clean out all rust, also remember that this rust may be blocking holes in the system which will be exposed when the rust is removed, most probably the welch plugs (tikli) will require replacing as they are the first to rust out.

[syedadeelhassan]

descale it with citric acid solution (10% strength) with thermostat removed. It will clean out all rust, also remember that this rust may be blocking holes in the system which will be exposed when the rust is removed, most probably the welch plugs (tikli) will require replacing as they are the first to rust out.

Thanks. One of my friend tells me that the heat-up issue may be linked to Water Body i.e. if the wings of water body are broken then the water will not be rotated within engine properly. Do you think the water body may be the cause of this issue?

[syedadeelhassan]

Thanks. One of my friend tells me that the heat-up issue may be linked to Water Body i.e. if the wings of water body are broken then the water will not be rotated within engine properly. Do you think the water body may be the cause of this issue?

Xulfiqar bhai - do you think that faulty water body can cause heat-up issue as well?

[Xulfiqar]

yes that can happen, but you can easily feel it, start the engine, remove radiator cap and wait for the thermostat to open, once open rev the engine, coolant/water should have a good amount of turbulence showing the water pump is working.I have seen this sort of bad water pump in mitsubishi 4G93 and also on some mercedes benz engines where the water pump impeller blade actually removed itself from the shaft, On suzuki engines I have seen the whole blade eroded from rust to become just a disc, on some other engines with built in waterpump housing, I have seen the housing cone erode away due to heavy rusting, this was a very old accord engine and also on a honda B16, - it required changing the entire cylinder block (aka half engine)SOuse something to prevent rust - specially in a diesel because the firing shockwaves cause great cavitation.

[syedadeelhassan]

yes that can happen, but you can easily feel it, start the engine, remove radiator cap and wait for the thermostat to open, once open rev the engine, coolant/water should have a good amount of turbulence showing the water pump is working.I have seen this sort of bad water pump in mitsubishi 4G93 and also on some mercedes benz engines where the water pump impeller blade actually removed itself from the shaft, On suzuki engines I have seen the whole blade eroded from rust to become just a disc, on some other engines with built in waterpump housing, I have seen the housing cone erode away due to heavy rusting, this was a very old accord engine and also on a honda B16, - it required changing the entire cylinder block (aka half engine)SOuse something to prevent rust - specially in a diesel because the firing shockwaves cause great cavitation.

Thanks - I will give it a try & get back with the outcome. Couple of questions (hopefully, these will be last for now) are regarding the descaling process as you mentioned earlier i.e. "descale it with citric acid solution (10% strength) with thermostat removed". When you say 'with thermostat removed', do you mean I will have to removed thermostat valve? In addition, will I have to pour-in the citric acid via radiator cap? Sorry for being so vague!!! Please elaborate this process in detail so that I can do it (or ask the guys at Nissan Motors to do it) correctly.

[Xulfiqar]

For flushing - you need to remove the thermostat valve so immediate circulation can occur, first use a non-foaming soap solution to deoil the system - I have seen some very concentrated carpet cleaning gels in very cheap flimsy white plastic bottles that dont foam up, use about 3 tbsp of it in 5 litres of water, drain the radiator and engine completely, fill with this solution first, start engine and drive for about 10 to 15 minutes, Drain and flush with water with help of garden water pipe till no soap can be felt.Make citric acid solution by mixing 500 grms to 5 litres water, you can also choose a lower conc, like 300 grams to 5 litres water - the water should be hot, fill up the system with this solution and drive around for about 15 minutes, drain solution and admire the smelly gunk that comes out, fill up with warm water and start engine, open drain tap and keep filling the system with water to flush it out completely. Takes about 10 minutes of flushing.Once done, replace thermostat valve, pour 2 bottles of conc. coolant in the radiator and top up with distilled water, keep engine running and bleed out any air.point to remember is that only use fresh potable water to flush the system, do not use saline water as it messes up the coolant really bad.

[Angeldust]

Get new termostat and hi temp silicon for gaskets.Do the flushing like Xulfiqar said,is the best way.

[Dani80pk]

Sharing my experience of last trip. I went to multan a few days back. While returning from there I got the fuel tank filled up full and it lasted the entire journey. Even when I reach here, it still had some 5-6 ltrs diesel left. Out of total jouney, I drove the car some more than 400kms with A/c. estimated average come to 21km/L.

Xulfiqar Bhai, engine has blow but is not reducing oil. Water level also didn't decrease I checked it before leaving. Checked when returning and checked when reached here. Water level remained intact. Engine has recognizable rattling at low rpms but at high rpms there is no rattling. Why is this so. My understanding is that anywhere above 1500rpms engine should go silent. Blowby means engine has weak compression. If we hold it true, it should not have the mileage that it gave (21km/L). cold starting is touch start. When hot some time it takes 3-4 seconds before it starts. Some times starts just on giving key.

Please let me have your guidance/ suggestions over the above issues.

Thanks & regards

[Angeldust]

21km/litre=4.7 litre/100km.Full tank=50liter(i think) and with this data you do a trip of 1000km.Something wrong with your calculation?

[Dani80pk]

21km/litre=4.7 litre/100km.Full tank=50liter(i think) and with this data you do a trip of 1000km.Something wrong with your calculation?

Yar the point to say is that it did full journey in one tank that was filled in multan and still there was some diesel left.

[aliusman420]

my cousin has 2001 2.OD Nissan Sunny, he got it brand new back then, now so far around 300,000 km driven
he is very much satisfied with his ride and previously it used to give even 18 km/l in city but now as it is driven a lot the average has dropped to 12-13 km/l and that too in speedy driving with full time AC and heavy traffic
the AC of this car is awesome and on hilly areas it runs without any issues

[Xulfiqar]

my cousin has 2001 2.OD Nissan Sunny, he got it brand new back then, now so far around 300,000 km driven
he is very much satisfied with his ride and previously it used to give even 18 km/l in city but now as it is driven a lot the average has dropped to 12-13 km/l and that too in speedy driving with full time AC and heavy traffic
the AC of this car is awesome and on hilly areas it runs without any issues

age and mileage should not affect fuel consumption if maintained properly. It will still return 18 km/lit if correctly tuned and adjusted.

[aliusman420]

the car is regularly tuned and maintained
what could be the problem?

[syedadeelhassan]

Further to my previous posts, I tried to find out the leakage by making a rig from radiator cap but no vain - the pressure didn't drop. I also checked out the simple test (as advised by Xulfiqar bhai) to check out the water pump, and it didn't raise any issues. I also took my car for service of the condenser (just in case it was blocked from lower end). After this service, the heat-up issue didn't resolve. I have now come to conclusion that there is no problem in the radiator, condenser or the water body. The last thing that is left at my end is to do flushing. When I will do it, I will share my findings (if it helps in resolving the issue in question or not). For me, this issue is really a mystery.

[Xulfiqar]

the car is regularly tuned and maintainedwhat could be the problem?

most probably pump timing along with unbalanced nozzles.

[Dani80pk]

Sharing my experience of last trip. I went to multan a few days back. While returning from there I got the fuel tank filled up full and it lasted the entire journey. Even when I reach here, it still had some 5-6 ltrs diesel left. Out of total jouney, I drove the car some more than 400kms with A/c. estimated average come to 21km/L.

Xulfiqar Bhai, engine has blow but is not reducing oil. Water level also didn't decrease I checked it before leaving. Checked when returning and checked when reached here. Water level remained intact. Engine has recognizable rattling at low rpms but at high rpms there is no rattling. Why is this so. My understanding is that anywhere above 1500rpms engine should go silent. Blowby means engine has weak compression. If we hold it true, it should not have the mileage that it gave (21km/L). cold starting is touch start. When hot some time it takes 3-4 seconds before it starts. Some times starts just on giving key. Xulfiqar Bhai, please let me have your comments/ guidance for the underlined observations.