Old Classic Car Point Burning

[user-xxx]

Coil

Video: Showing Spark. Im scratching the wire which goes to point on distributer, After the resistance. Its the Red wire in diagram that is attached to upper point.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/10hh3hTRcJCQakkuLd0PFrlJyCfd0q42T/view?usp=drive_link

[user-xxx]

@capsat
@Xulfiqar

[capsat]

you need only 1 condenser at distributor assy. wire connected to positive of 12v dc and body bolted to dizzy

[Xulfiqar]

What resistance are you using? And why do all this extra work, the original wiring has a point from the starter wire to the resistance bypass to allow hot spark for starting,

Your coil already has the bracket for the factory resistor,

You need a resistor on the positive supply side of the coil, not on the cb points,

[user-xxx]

Yeh i was not sure if original condenser is ok, so i installed another. It is connected correctly just like original.

[Xulfiqar]

Use a dmm to test it, its just a capacitor.

[user-xxx]

Update: I removed the resistor from negative end and installed it in positive end, Which is the correct way. Removed extra condenser.

Took a wire from ignition key self and installed a relay with it.

Now when i give self the relay short the 2 points of resistor so full current goes to ignition coil as its supposed to.
And when the car starts i leave the self, the relay stops working and current goes through resistor.

Now its starts perfectly as before.

[Xulfiqar]

You dont need a relay for this, unless you are an oldschool mazda fanatic, the starter solenoid thin wire is branched to the resistor as bypass and works only when the starter is energized. It cannot backfeed as the contactor in the ignition switch is open circuit when not in start position.

Adding a relay only adds a failure point here.

The oldschool mazdas had a bypass relay for this which was also for accessories, so they would switch off when the key was in start and also supply full 12v to the ignition coil for fast start.

[user-xxx]

Man, i looked for that wire in engine bay but could not find it so i installed a relay. Anyhow its also doing the same thing.

The transmition is of mehran i guess. I can see only 2 points on starter.
And 3 wires connected to these 2 points.

Wire Black and Yellow are connected to one point.
Wire red is connected to second point.

Black wire is directly attached to battery positive. [ So yellow wire also gets positive all the time ]
Red wire is negative.
So even car is completely off one terminal point has positive and other negative.

I dont see any third point here which gets the signal from self switch. So its still a mystery to me.

[Xulfiqar]

The red wire isnt negative, if you test with a lamp with it connected you will be mistaken that its negative as you are seeing the ground side via the solenoid windings, its actually the trigger wire (key switch wire to make starter work), all you needed was a wire from this to the resistor bypass.

Starter is grounded (negative) by its housing, the thick cable is the battery positive, the thin red wire is the trigger wire for the solenoid which pulls in the contactor and motor starts spinning.

To test the thin wire, remove it, and connect a 12v test lamp to it, spin key to start and you will see the lamp glow.

[user-xxx]

Plz check following diagram.

Wire 1 is coming from key switch second last point that is before self.

Wire 2 is the Red wire on Starter Selinoid it has Negative all the time. ( According to you it will have Positive later when self is turned on. Which i also believe)

Now Problem: When i will rotate the Key and it reach second last point then;

Wire 1 will be Positive
Wire 2 will be Negative

So Resister will get all the Load and Burn. If resistor wont burn then;
I give Self and Wire 2 Will be Positive also, Everything works here.

I leave Self then again Wire 2 will Become Negative and it is the Problem.

[Xulfiqar]

I leave Self then again Wire 2 will Become Negative and it is the Problem.

you are checking incorrect, the negative you are seeing on the DMM is the field coil of the solenoid showing a ground. Its not actually a live negative. The solenoid will not trigger due to the 7 or 8V at the resistor output - its not strong enough to pull in the solenoid field winding.

The below is the diagram of the coil with ballast resistor

[Xulfiqar]

If you have a coil with three post terminals then it has a built in resistor and dont need an external one. I think the earliest round lamp suzuki 800 came with those coils, they were short stubby Hitachi branded coils with blue hat.

[user-xxx]

Got it i will just connect it this way. Coil is red cap just 2 terminals. Shown above pic.

[user-xxx]

Some urgent help needed. Today i got stranded at night 10 pm. Suddenly car stoped. It was starting but as soon as i put it in gear and starts to leave the clutch. That is when engine begain to have load it starts missing with no power to move and dies. It didnt have the power to move even 2 yards.

I gave full accelerator, reves fine but as soon as i starts leaving clutch the rpm came down and it misfires as stops.

I thought point got burnet again. I cleaned it but still same issue. I called a friend and asked to bring new point but still same. I removed the resistor and relay give it direct current but still same problem. After 3 hours of sweating 🥵 i abandoned car at road side on a dark place at 1am night and came back home.

[user-xxx]

I also checked return fuel it was flowing. Removed air filter checked water level to eliminate any doubt. Now after 6 hours i can have access to mechanics but i have to take him along because it is kinda parked far from workshops. I will feel blessed if i even find it there or with all the 4 wheels intact.

What should i bring along new spark wires distributor cap ?
What could be wrong with it.

[Xulfiqar]

Did you have spark?

Engine requires 4 things to run
Fuel
Air
Compression
Spark

Check for spark at plug wire end,
If no, then check at distributor cap and finally at coil

The rest is adding fuel, , dribble some in the carburettor throats and check if engine starts, if that doesnt help, you may need to wait for it to dry out (if its flooded/over)

If the electric solenoid on carburettor is not allowing fuel to idle circuit, the engine wont start and if it will start, it would stall out.

[user-xxx]

Yeh yeh i checked. Spark was there. I checked it from inside distributor cap. I attached a wire to body than bring the other end of wire closer to the center carbon inside distributor. Tiny thin spark was producing. I checked it several times with and without resistance to coil. I kinda compared that spark with the motorcycle spark in mind. Looks weak to me.

I also checked spark directly from ignition coil, still same weak.

Electric Solenoid, oh man i forgot to check that. Infact i didnt checked any other thing in carb except the return fuel.

But suppose i gave it full throtle, clutch pressed. Then released slowly clutch, Now does that electric solonoid has to do any thing here ?

Also may be some screw like Air screw felt down from carb front side, i forgot to check those things.

[user-xxx]

I took mechanic he just removed air filter box, Installed another Condenser on distributor. I had already that condenser as spare part and start it on full rev for 2-3 minutes. Put filter box back and took it to his work shop.

From their i drive it to home but it was showing same symptoms. On my house ramp again it was reluctant to start but i managed to park it in.

[Xulfiqar]

Your condenser seems like trash.

And you have a fuelling problem too.