Old Classic Car Point Burning

[user-xxx]

Plz check following diagram.

Wire 1 is coming from key switch second last point that is before self.

Wire 2 is the Red wire on Starter Selinoid it has Negative all the time. ( According to you it will have Positive later when self is turned on. Which i also believe)

Now Problem: When i will rotate the Key and it reach second last point then;

Wire 1 will be Positive
Wire 2 will be Negative

So Resister will get all the Load and Burn. If resistor wont burn then;
I give Self and Wire 2 Will be Positive also, Everything works here.

I leave Self then again Wire 2 will Become Negative and it is the Problem.

[Xulfiqar]

I leave Self then again Wire 2 will Become Negative and it is the Problem.

you are checking incorrect, the negative you are seeing on the DMM is the field coil of the solenoid showing a ground. Its not actually a live negative. The solenoid will not trigger due to the 7 or 8V at the resistor output - its not strong enough to pull in the solenoid field winding.

The below is the diagram of the coil with ballast resistor

[Xulfiqar]

If you have a coil with three post terminals then it has a built in resistor and dont need an external one. I think the earliest round lamp suzuki 800 came with those coils, they were short stubby Hitachi branded coils with blue hat.

[user-xxx]

Got it i will just connect it this way. Coil is red cap just 2 terminals. Shown above pic.

[user-xxx]

Some urgent help needed. Today i got stranded at night 10 pm. Suddenly car stoped. It was starting but as soon as i put it in gear and starts to leave the clutch. That is when engine begain to have load it starts missing with no power to move and dies. It didnt have the power to move even 2 yards.

I gave full accelerator, reves fine but as soon as i starts leaving clutch the rpm came down and it misfires as stops.

I thought point got burnet again. I cleaned it but still same issue. I called a friend and asked to bring new point but still same. I removed the resistor and relay give it direct current but still same problem. After 3 hours of sweating 🥵 i abandoned car at road side on a dark place at 1am night and came back home.

[user-xxx]

I also checked return fuel it was flowing. Removed air filter checked water level to eliminate any doubt. Now after 6 hours i can have access to mechanics but i have to take him along because it is kinda parked far from workshops. I will feel blessed if i even find it there or with all the 4 wheels intact.

What should i bring along new spark wires distributor cap ?
What could be wrong with it.

[Xulfiqar]

Did you have spark?

Engine requires 4 things to run
Fuel
Air
Compression
Spark

Check for spark at plug wire end,
If no, then check at distributor cap and finally at coil

The rest is adding fuel, , dribble some in the carburettor throats and check if engine starts, if that doesnt help, you may need to wait for it to dry out (if its flooded/over)

If the electric solenoid on carburettor is not allowing fuel to idle circuit, the engine wont start and if it will start, it would stall out.

[user-xxx]

Yeh yeh i checked. Spark was there. I checked it from inside distributor cap. I attached a wire to body than bring the other end of wire closer to the center carbon inside distributor. Tiny thin spark was producing. I checked it several times with and without resistance to coil. I kinda compared that spark with the motorcycle spark in mind. Looks weak to me.

I also checked spark directly from ignition coil, still same weak.

Electric Solenoid, oh man i forgot to check that. Infact i didnt checked any other thing in carb except the return fuel.

But suppose i gave it full throtle, clutch pressed. Then released slowly clutch, Now does that electric solonoid has to do any thing here ?

Also may be some screw like Air screw felt down from carb front side, i forgot to check those things.

[user-xxx]

I took mechanic he just removed air filter box, Installed another Condenser on distributor. I had already that condenser as spare part and start it on full rev for 2-3 minutes. Put filter box back and took it to his work shop.

From their i drive it to home but it was showing same symptoms. On my house ramp again it was reluctant to start but i managed to park it in.

[Xulfiqar]

Your condenser seems like trash.

And you have a fuelling problem too.

[user-xxx]

@Xulfiqar You said Electric Selonoid before, and that was it.
I checked its wire that connect to positive current wire on Key switch and current was not coming to Electric Selonoid on carb. The connecting wire in between them was burnt, dont know how as it should be operating on low watts. Or may be some other heavy load was also connected on it or perhaps a short circuit, cant trace that wire. So i connected another wire to it and i can hear its clicking sound now.

Ignition coil and wires are perfect, spark quality is perfect. Before i was checking spark without condenser. That is when i remove wire from distributor so then condenser is also detached from coil and it takes away 70% spark strength. Coil has to be connected with condenser as u know.

I checked all high voltage cables, they r carbon core. I checked their continuity with a 12v bulb and battery but bulb didn't litup . However, high voltage was passing as usual. Do they have large internal resistance?

Somehow there was a new issue in wiring. Firstly a wire burnt as i described above secondly the key switch 1st turn is also giving current to 2rd turn wire. Which should not happen because last time i checked and set all the wiring under dashboard and corrections were done where needed. I will check wiring under dashboard again. Right now key switch is taking all the heavy load of Fan, coil, Carb Selonoid. Do you think the correct way will be to transfer that load on a relay. (I bought relay today will shift load to it.)
Also, the Bumper Lights, Indicators, Rear Lights are all without relay do you think its fine ?

Also, the cng nozel got loose and felt so that is a major reason too. How can i block cng hole in carb ?

Conclusion for today work; i thing the problem was that Carb Selonoid was not turning on. I think now it should work fine but i have to correct new wiring issue with fuse and relay. I shall continue to fix it tomorrow.

[Xulfiqar]

Good that you found the issue.

Yes high tension cables of spark plugs have very high resistance and wont light a test lamp, use a dmm to test, test lamp is used to test if they are leaking though.

What do you mean by igntion position 2? You mean “on” or “starting”position?

[user-xxx]

@Xulfiqar For key switch i mean;
When we insert key lets call it number 1
ACC (accessory), 2nd point.
IGN (ignition input). This is the primary terminal that controls your vehicle's ignition and other electronics, 3rd point.
ST (starter). This terminal connects to the starter solenoid., 4th point.

Now problem is that on 2nd turn positive current is also in 3rd wire, so engine keeps running. I will open keyswitch wiring to identify problem.

Other problems are being fixed.

[user-xxx]

@Xulfiqar what material carburetor is made of. I want to put a bolt in place where cng ventuari was inserted in it and got it welded !

[Xulfiqar]

if your carburettor has a hole in it, better to replace it, the only other way to seal it up, is to make a bung out of something and epoxy it on and pray it works, (it usually doesnt)

If you are trying to run your engine with a carburettor that has a hole and a nozzle inserted into it, it will never work properly.

[mjaffrani]

why dont you change your ignition coil as I face similar issue with my VW Beetle 1965 changed point multiple time but after replacing ignition coil issue was resolved. ask you electrician to replace it with a new coil if it does not work you can always return it.

[user-xxx]

why dont you change your ignition coil as I face similar issue with my VW Beetle 1965 changed point multiple time but after replacing ignition coil issue was resolved. ask you electrician to replace it with a new coil if it does not work you can always return it.

i have checked the coil its working fine. All issues were identified. Im in a process to fix them. I think by tomorrow i will test drive it.

Your problem was solved by changing coil because either your old coil was not meant to operate on the Voltage which it was getting or some of its winding was shot circuit.

For carburetor hole issue where gas nozzle was installed i bought a bolt of 17 number. But it will fall again if i don't fit it properly. I cant remove the back bolt of Carburetor because no tool have access to it. so i have to work on carb while its still attached.

[Xulfiqar]

Did you ever test the coil if it was bad or were just throwing parts at the car hoping one will fix it?

Sadly that was the fate of almost all aircooled beetles in pk.

[user-xxx]

I fixed all issues now its working fine except one issue with starter Selonoid it wont work something. I will do that later.

[mjaffrani]

agree with your observation its always voltage that affects the coil of point. I would suggest you replace you carb a it going to impact on your milage.