Restoring Yamaha 100cc (YB100, model:1980)

Tags: #<Tag:0x00000005ba9078>

fakhir (fakhir) 2013-04-27 10:36:47 +0500 #21

I am totally new to bikes. Just 2 weeks ago @vickytulla (Waqar) told me the difference between head and cylinder !!! I just have a bad habit of doing prior research and googling everything out

hidalgo (hidalgo) 2013-04-27 10:41:52 +0500 #22

we all went through this stage its called learning .0342 5092095 here is my number cntct in person for any help .

fakhir (fakhir) 2013-04-27 10:43:50 +0500 #23

Sure, thanks a lot

fakhir (fakhir) 2013-04-27 10:58:57 +0500 #24

Ripping the bike apart

The first thing I planned to take off was the seat:

But this proved to be way trickier than I imagined. Apart from being extremely rusty and crumbly, few of the bolts were virtually inaccessible. For example the rear seat mounting bolts which bind the seat to the frame. These are located vertically above the rear indicator light shafts. Due to very little clearance it is extremely difficult to get any decent sized spanner in there and loosen the bolts up:

Applying some WD40 in order to soften up the rust:

Removing relatively easier bolts:

And I don't know why but I removed the rear shocks because I thought it would give me more clearance to the rear seat bolts. The bike carrier at the back end was also getting in the way, so had to remove that as well:

fakhir (fakhir) 2013-04-27 11:06:39 +0500 #25

Carrier: (I think this is what its called!)

Closeup shot. As usual huge amount of rust:

Those damn rear seat bolts were driving me crazy. Tilted the bike flat on the ground for better access:

Somewhere in there lies the devilish rear seat bolt:

fakhir (fakhir) 2013-04-27 11:12:31 +0500 #26

After banging my head on the wall for about 2 hours at last the seat is dismounted:

Seat closeup, Rust:

The carrier is also off and the bike looks like this: (which in my opinion is pretty cool. I think I should put a much smaller seat):

Check out the rust at the bottom end of the tank. I think there were a few holes in it as well:

fakhir (fakhir) 2013-04-27 11:27:37 +0500 #27

Showing off the tools again

Very important: Always use an impact screw driver when ever you are opening up exterior engine parts. The impact driver has extremely high torque. It loosens up even really soft and rusty screws easily and without deforming them. If you use the traditional mechanic recipe of normal screw driver and a hammer, you will literally "screw" up all your screws.

Trying the impact driver on right side of the engine cover. Very soft rusty and deformed screws. Specially after applying WD40 they were as soft as butter. Fear not, impact screw driver to the rescue:

Dismounting chain covers. Loads of rust on the chain:

The chain covers are in a very bad shape due to rust. Specially the bottom cover is dissolved from underneath and has huge holes in it:

Check out the amount of rust:

fakhir (fakhir) 2013-04-27 11:34:02 +0500 #28

Rusty chain:

Taking off generator cover:

Loads of gunk in there as well:

The rear number plate is off. Looks like someone had put a foam for the support lol:

Rear fender is in a real bad shape:

hidalgo (hidalgo) 2013-04-27 11:35:06 +0500 #29

yar its really rust bucket . buy you can make it cool still .and about small seat see this . i did this to my bike once

aximaxim (aximaxim) 2013-04-27 11:36:05 +0500 #30

That's how I roll. Best of luck and may I say.......Nice camera

Keep in touch with @vickytulla and @hidalgo.

fakhir (fakhir) 2013-04-27 11:37:14 +0500 #31

Important: Always be organised. Put everything separately and if possible, label them:

hidalgo (hidalgo) 2013-04-27 11:37:58 +0500 #32

i really wish u were in my city so we could do it to gether , there are max options you can do with this bike , restore it modify it what ever u think u can do . see this latest of my bike .

fakhir (fakhir) 2013-04-27 11:51:45 +0500 #33

It is just a normal point and shoot camera (canon). I used ISO 100 at minimum aperture opening (I guess 14-ish, and sometimes aperture priority mode), and yes the magic recipe: I used a stand and built-in camera timer to minimize shake and maximize details! Furthermore you need to keep in mind the direction of light and shadow state. Avoid direct sun and hard shadows specially on the front side. In my case sun was not a problem, there was plenty of natural diffuse light for cool photography.

DO NOT EVER use a flash except in rare cases.

Are these disk breaks in the front? Pretty cool! Since this is my first project I intend to keep it very simple and just replace original parts. Modifications and advanced stuff like that will have to wait till the 2nd project

hidalgo (hidalgo) 2013-04-27 11:59:51 +0500 #34

yes its a disc brk , exhaust n rear suspension is changed as well . nd yes keep it simple bro . its easy

fakhir (fakhir) 2013-04-27 12:39:17 +0500 #35

I forgot to attach pictures of the lower chain cover:

Taking off fuel c.o.c.k assembly from the fuel tank: (sorry but the annoying automated pakwheel language guard was replacing c.o.c.k with *** :D. So I had to put dots in between)

Another view:

The tank itself was relatively very easy to dismount:

Spiders living in the tank LOL :

With the tank and seat off this is how the bike frame looks like. Amazingly there was no visual or rust damage at all on the bike frame. The frame appeared to be in a very good health:

fakhir (fakhir) 2013-04-27 12:58:01 +0500 #36

In general all over the bike the wiring appears to be totally messed up. It is going to be a nightmare sorting this out:

Opening up right engine cover and draining the oil. Impact screw driver is your friend:

Loads of oil came out, given the fact that it is 10 years old. Amazing !

Taking out the carburettor was an absolute nightmare. The rubber pipes providing fuel were as hard as steel which unfortunately had to cut using a sharp knife. As you can see some idiot mechanic had already taken +ve steps towards the destruction of the carb. I don't know what the hell was he thinking at the time:

Back side:

fakhir (fakhir) 2013-04-27 13:12:04 +0500 #37

Slacken off clutch cable adjuster locknut to gain better access to the oil pump. Then take out the oil pump as well:

Detaching gear shift pedal was a nightmare. In order to have better access I had to remove the front footrest assembly. Furthermore the gear change pedal was badly jammed into its splined shaft. I had to strike the spline shaft with quite a bit of force to get the pedal out. In short it was a decent amount of work. As you can probably see the crankcase cover is also damaged:

Engine underside:

fakhir (fakhir) 2013-04-27 13:18:16 +0500 #38

Taking off crankcase cover and exposing the rotor/generator assembly:

Closer look at the crankcase cover. It is rusted and fairly damaged from one side:

fakhir (fakhir) 2013-04-27 13:21:43 +0500 #39

Did you modify your bike yourself? I mean installed disk breaks etc? If yes then that is pretty awesome!

One thing I really like to know is that how the local mechanics or "kharadias" bore the cylinder? Do they actually measure it using micrometer or bore gauge etc? Or do they work mainly on "guesses" ?

fakhir (fakhir) 2013-04-27 13:37:01 +0500 #40

Rotor assembly closeup. The rotor wheel also has huge amounts of rust on it:

View of the drive sprocket. Some wise zen-master mechanic has already tried to mess it up real bad. You can see the damages on the main nut. Also the area surrounding the gear change spline shaft is full of rust and gunk:

Air filter, or what's left of it lol:

Another view of the electrical mess: