Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

[ahmad40]

Very nice thread..
I want to adjust the level of my headlights..the headlight is not focused on the road,one is going up and one is really down.Can anyone tell me where r the khyber headlight adjusting placed nd how to adjust them?
thanks in advance

[metalhead]

Very nice thread..
I want to adjust the level of my headlights..the headlight is not focused on the road,one is going up and one is really down.Can anyone tell me where r the khyber headlight adjusting placed nd how to adjust them?
thanks in advance

Its very easy. Park the car in front of a light colored wall about 10 feet away from it. The car should be leveled enough. The adjustment screws are at the back of the head-lights. Two on each one. On two inner corners. Top and below. Better to cover one light to adjust another. The adjustment may take 15 to 20 minutes, so better to start the engine when lights are on.

First you should check the left right adjustment of the beams. This can be done by rotating both the screws in same direction. By adjusting left-right, the adjustment screws will come to its mid point. So the problem of reaching screw threads to its end will be not faced.

Then you can adjust the up-down setting by rotating one screw in one direction and other in the other direction. Check for the direction of beam while rotating screws. If you are turning in wrong direction, reverse the direction of screw rotation.

NOTE: Adjust for LOW beam and then check HIGH beam. Usually if the bulbs are old and normal quality, the HIGH beam may not be adjusted properly. But if you are a good driver, you will drive on low beams and use the high beam for signalling only.

[ahmad40]

Thanks for the quick reply..I want to ask another thing..
When my khyber is started the first time in the morning is gives black smoke for about 2 seconds after that no smoke is seen whether how many times you start it..what is the problem?

One thing i want to add is that its on petrol

[metalhead]

On petrol, black smoke means excessive petrol. As it is only in a starting, so no problem in mixture setting. On petrol your car must start without pressing accelerator in summer. If not press only 1/4 of the pedal. If you press more there will be more petrol and when ignites it will give carbon smoke.

[crail]

i have facing problem in headlights in low beam its ok but when i turn on full beam the light not focus on road its spread all where so cannot view clearly road its so difficult to drive on full beam

[metalhead]

@Crail; Thats what i was saying above. Mostly you shuold drive on low beam but the high beam is also necessary in situations. Check the low beam in front of a wall. the upper edge should be in the level of beam. While driving your low beam should not be higher than the trunk line of a car ahead of you. Then check high beam in front of a wall, it should not point to the sky or same like low beam. if its too dispersed, may be the filament is deformed/displaced due to jerks and vibration. Check it with new bulbs.

[crail]

thanks i will be check...can i replace my bulbs with hid bulbs?

[Xplorer]

My Khyber has started reducing oil and exhaust is getting blacker and blacker. So I took it to a mechanic for compression test.
I was surprised to know that only one of the cylinders (cylinder no. 3) had very low compression + its spark plug was oily too. The other two cylinders had no oil on plugs and their compression was also fine. Mechanic has told to open up the engine completely and then either only rings will be done or the complete overhaul.
Why only one cylinder has developed a problem? What should be the proper remedy?

[ahsanonline]

There may be a gasket leak or faulty valve seals for that cylinder. Dry + Wet compression test can shed more light on the state of the valves/rings fault.

It would be foolish to enact repairs without a proper diagnosis.

[Xulfiqar]

If just one cylinder is low compression then repair that cylinder only, most cases are bad valve seats causing this.

[ahmad40]

One thing 1 need to ask, Can i take out the stock cassette player out of my khyber myself? Does i needs to remove the whole dashboard for its removal? Can u please guide me if its possible to take out myself? Thanks in advance

[cracked]

^
no,whole dash board doesn't need to be removed for removal of cassette player.
go to any audio shop,they will do it free charge,they SHOULD do it free cuz its next to nothing kinda work for them

[ahmad40]

^
no,whole dash board doesn't need to be removed for removal of cassette player.
go to any audio shop,they will do it free charge,they SHOULD do it free cuz its next to nothing kinda work for them

Hmmm ok thanks Cracked

[daniyalahmad]

Assalam-o-Alaikum everyone,
I needed some help and advice from you guys.
My cars front suspension needed to be changed as they had become very soft and they were producing noises on bumps.
Got them changed, replaced them with new KYB units along with new japanese springs of the same size.
After changing them the car got lifted too much from the front.
My mechanic said me to try them for a week and then report back.
After trying them for one week I have noticed that the front shocks are much stiffer than the rear ones. (Im presuming that the rear springs have become too soft with the passage of time)
Even if there is one person sitting at the back seat and the car passes through a ditch at some speed (like the water drains present in an underpass) it feels as if I have lost control of the car.
This feeling scares the $}{iT out of me.
This never happened with its original suspension.
I told this to my mechanic and he suggested me that we should cut the springs as they are too stiff.
He was of the view that by cutting them we'll bring the car height to how it was before and the stiffness in the springs will improve the stability at high speeds.
Should I let him cut the springs?
If no then what is the best way to resolve this issue?

P.s: I cannot use the old springs as one of them has developed slight bend due to an accident.

Im attaching the before and after pictures to give you people an idea.

[ahsanonline]

Dont cut springs, EVER. Creates more problems than you can solve.

I'll suggest looking first at camber adjustment of front wheels. After that look at rear shock replacement.

[metalhead]

Are you sure that the new Japanese springs are for the same model, They may be for 1300cc versions where the engine weight are higher.
And I do not believe that the springs gets softer with use, their free length may change which effects the height of the suspension but the spring constant will remain the same. The dampers are the one that gets softer with time but they have nothing to do with the stationary height.

Do not cut the springs, as the turns of spring at ends are close to each other to give a flat seating. How will that be created in a cut-down end?

[daniyalahmad]

Dont cut springs, EVER. Creates more problems than you can solve.

I'll suggest looking first at camber adjustment of front wheels. After that look at rear shock replacement.

Camber adjustment was done at the same time, and just to make sure that everything is alright I got it checked again from my alignment guy.
They both said that the camber adjustment is alright, however they said that the shocks are not good as they are quite stiff, plus he said that the car is around 1.5" higher than normal which is not good.
He said that it may affect the cars stability at higher speeds.
Okay I wont be cutting springs, so should I now look for new springs?

Are you sure that the new Japanese springs are for the same model, They may be for 1300cc versions where the engine weight are higher.

Hmmm...
I cant say.
The length was the same.
I got them from Kiyani Autos Gawalmandi and he said that these are the original Japanese ones that came with 1.0L Khyber.

And I do not believe that the springs gets softer with use, their free length may change which effects the height of the suspension but the spring constant will remain the same. The dampers are the one that gets softer with time but they have nothing to do with the stationary height.

Agreed on the damper part, cant say much about the springs though.
BTW if there is any way to repair the bend in springs then I'll be happy to use its original springs with new dampers.

Do not cut the springs, as the turns of spring at ends are close to each other to give a flat seating. How will that be created in a cut-down end?

Exactly!
Thats what I was concerned about.

[metalhead]

I would recommend you to use the original springs... regarding the bend; what's it like? i mean is it a bend throughout the spring ( or a curled axis) or its a bend at a point in the spring? A snap will be better to understand and expert's opinion is required after seeing the pic.

[daniyalahmad]

^ The bend is slight, it can be noticed if I roll the spring on a flat surface with a very gentle push.
At that time one can easily judge the bend.
Im attaching a picture.
I've tried to explain the bend with the red lines.
The way the lines are bent, is the way the springs are bent.

[metalhead]

Experts or experienced may comment on it, whether it can be straightened out or not?

In my opinion it can be done but with care not to bend backwards too much. It may break. Breaking is catastrophic, OK; but leaving hidden cracks in the spring will trouble you in the middle of the road.