Swat Valley & Kalash Valley (Chilam Joshi festival) trip - May 2014

[Xoofi]

After the national anthem and speeches which took half hour. The cultural show started. First they invited the Chitrali orchestra which played flute, drum (on old iron fuel can), and tabla type of thing. Its tune was so soothing to ears.

Suddenly, 4 Chitral scouts guys jumped in the empty area in front of space and started their local dance. It happened so quickly that everyone got amazed for a second. Their dance was superb and greatly synchronized. Everyone gave them huge applause. Both the music and dance was superb.

[Xoofi]

Now they invited a very talented singer from Chitral named Mehtab Ziyab. He is a young guy and also works as a host in local FM radio channel. He sang a really good song. Although it was not understandable by most of the audience (not even by Kalashas) but everyone gave him a lot of applause. He also sang a political song, Imran Khan (in Chitrali, for PTI) which was also very good.

Then they invited a Pashto singer, Alamgir Swati (belonging from Swat) who also sang very good. This time the applause was very much as most of the audience in function were Pashto people.

The song he sang can be heard here: Mehtab Ziyab - Hardi Hardi

[Xoofi]

Now they invited a local Kalasha man to play the local music just on flute. He was very shy to perform on the stage. His face almost turned red. Really simple people and were probably doing it first time in front of a public gathering.

While he was playing the flute, the organizers also sent 3 Kalash girls/women on the stage to show the Kalash culture. However, these girls were so shy that they didn't even uncover their faces and just sat there turning face towards the wall. It was a funny situation but at the same time it showed that how simple these people are and whatever fun they do on festival is purely non-commercial and is only for their own religious reasons.

After Kalash people, another pashto singer came.

[Xoofi]

Now the most awaited segment of the show was about to come. Yes, the same Nilo which we saw earlier at the festival place had to perform on stage.

First she came with traditional Kalash attire. She sang a song in pashto. The public got mad after seeing her. All the pathans came in front of stage and started dancing. One of the drunk man got onto stage and came very close to Nilo in order to film her, thats when the organizer pushed him. And the drunk man had quarrel with the organizer. The security personnel came running and finished the quarrel. However, the program wasn't stopped and it continued.

After Nilo's song, they played a Punjabi song and all the tourists from Punjab got mad and did the bhangra (including me )

After bhangra, Nilo came once again in pashto attire and sang another song. While she was singing, a person sitting behind me tapped on my shoulder and when I diverted my attention towards him, he showed me his mobile screen saying: "Ye dekho Nilo ka mujra ka video, kitna mast dance karti hai ye". The clip was taken from Youtube and was of some private dance party. Thought that my pashto friends could get amused, showed it to them and they went mad. Turned on their Bluetooth and took the video clip from the person

After this, the program was finished with speeches of praising Imran Khan and KPK Govt.

[Xoofi]

It was about 12 AM when this program finished. We were hungry as we didn't had dinner due to the cultural program. Asked hotel owner to arrange something for dinner but he said.. sab band ho gya hai ab kuch nahi hai.

Luckily my friend Waqas bought eggs in evening so that we could cook our own food (anda ghutala) tonight. Finally decided to boil those eggs. Got the cylinder, a kettle from hotel owner and boiled those eggs. Had dinner of boiled eggs. While having those eggs, we decided that we will leave tomorrow (although on 16th there is more festival but we got kind of bored by watching same thing all day today). We also decided that we won't go like this now pushing the car. So decided to hire taxi this time to divide the passengers and luggage.

After dinner we slept.

-- END OF DAY 7 --

[Xoofi]

After a quick breakfast on today's morning, we decided to leave the Kalash valley around 10 AM. As we had decided last night that we won't go through the same ordeal today of pushing the car, so we hired a taxi till the main road (Chitral-Dir highway). He asked us 1200 Rs which was ok as they charge 200 per single passenger with six people on board. We transferred all luggage in the taxi. Now only 2 people in the car, no luggage. While taxi had 3 people and all the luggage. I was in taxi.

When we were leaving Bamburet, we heard lots of noise and drums. Soon a rally of kids, women, boys, men and elderly people emerged. These were going towards main festival place. Today was 16th so on this day, people from other villages (Rambur & Birir) visit Bamburet to take part in festival.

Soon the rally passed and we started journey. As we were going down, it was getting hotter and hotter. In about 1 hour only we reached back to highway. Now we transferred again in our car as the road was better till Darosh. From Darosh we were planning to hire another taxi to cross Lowari Pass.

[Xoofi]

The experience of hiring taxi was a success. The XLI reached highway without any push or touching this time. Bashir was saying that he felt like the car was flying

We reached Darosh in no time. From there we had to hire a taxi again. Soon we got one from Taxi adda at 3200 Rs only. Transferred all the luggage and 3 people in taxi, while only 2 people remained in car.

We were traveling the distance very fast now. Soon we reached near tunnel from where the road starts to take swirls to reach Lowari Top. By 2 PM we were at Lowari top where the traffic was jammed. Again a rocket truck got stuck in mud or something. It took about 30 minutes there to get cleared. It was a bright sunny day today at Lowari and there was no recent snowfall.

Our Taxi for Darosh - Dir

Traffic jam at Lowari Top

The rocket after getting cleared.

[Xoofi]

Soon we reached the same point where our car got stuck the other day. It was the most hard part of the Lowari Pass. But this time our car passed without any issues and any major help. However, taxi had to do some rock adjustments before it cleared that area.

Bashir had specially brought a Coke & Mirinda this time to make Gola with multiple flavor. The taxi driver also joined us. Since there was no fresh snow so we had to dig down to get clean pure white snow (although still not very clean). I didn't eat the gola because of same fear.

Our taxi driver. Was very simple guy from Darosh.

[Xoofi]

As we were enjoying Golas.. We saw a bike coming. When it got near, 3 people were riding it and it was a 70. Now that was something. Lowari Pass on a 70, that was impressive.

[Xoofi]

We reached Dir at around 4:30 PM. Bamburet to Dir took only about 6 hours and the other day it took 10 hours. And the amazing thing was that it was very economical too to distribute the load in taxi. Both taxis only cost us 4400 Rs.

After reaching Dir (same Abshar Hotel), my supply of "collective tour cash" was finished so I asked Bashir to give me some money. The driver might have thought that I'm lacking money or something. After getting money from Bashir, I tried to give money (rent) to the taxi driver. And he tried to refuse, yaar rakho na agar khatam hogaye hain to. I insisted but he returned my hand which was holding money saying yaar agli dafa de dena aagay zaroorat paray gi. I had to put the money in his pocket. He was very simple person and I really liked his simpleness and his attitude.

We went inside hotel to have lunch. Soon I realized that the taxi driver should also be called because he must be hungry too. I rushed out to find him but I only saw his taxi parked there and he was no where to be seen. I repented that why I didn't invite him before. Anyway, we quickly ate lunch and decided to move further as it was still far from night. When we left the hotel, his taxi was still parked and he wasn't there. If I go there again, I will meet this guy. Some people are always remembered because of their nature and he sure was one of them.

We left Dir around 5 PM.

Somebody tell this man in DIR to choose a better name for his shop

[Xoofi]

Soon when we left Dir. Now we were all in same car as ahead lied fully paved road. We saw a roadside service station. We got our car washed. It got new again

We continued driving, passed many checkposts and towns and all looked familiar because we passed through them two days ago. Reached Chakdara and then Batkhela around 10 PM. Everyone said that we should stay here. Although I was of opinion to try to reach Islamabad in next 3 hours. However, I now realize that I was being selfish at that time. It was proper decision to stay at Batkhela because Bashir was driving all the time and he must be tired by now.

But the problem was to find a place for accommodation in Batkhela as its not a very famous city. Soon after asking from few people we reached this hotel called Shalimar Hotel. It was probably the only hotel (or a better one) in Batkhela. Two rooms were taken for 500 each.

Walked to a nearby restaurant for dinner which was identical to the name of Bashir. We ordered Chicken fry or something (I forgot the dish name) and chapli kebabs. Chapli kebabs were very ordinary but the Chicken fry was really delicious that we had to order it again.

After dinner, we came back to hotel in slept. It was almost hot in Batkhela that we had to use fans after a week. The hotel also had generator facility for load shedding.

[Xoofi]

Next day we woke up at 8 AM by hotel guy. He said, aap gari hata dein market kholni hai. (Our car was parked in market entrance as there was no parking in hotel).

We took it in front of hotel where the traffic police guys didn't allow us to park there as it would disturb the flow of traffic. Anyway, we asked them to give us 15 mins only so that we could get ready to leave. He strictly allowed us for 15 mins only. We quickly freshened up, packed up and left Batkhela. Right after Batkhela, there is Malakand Pass. Last time it was almost evening when we passed Malakand Pass but today it was looking very beautiful.

At one spot, there was a swirling road visible so we stopped our car to take a picture. After taking only one picture, we heard a big whistle apparently coming from Army quarters besides. The guy was asking to move quickly as it was not the place to stop. So we quickly got into car and moved.

Here is the picture of that beautiful place.

[Xoofi]

Soon we finished Malakand Pass and were again greeted by Army jawans at Dargai. Took almost 15 minutes to get clear because of long queue.

Ahead was Shergarh where got stuck in traffic again because of construction work. After getting cleared by Shergarh, the next stop was Takht Bhai. Stopped at a reasonable restaurant for breakfast. It was named Galaxy Tourist Restaurant. It turned out to be really good. I will recommend it to anybody who wants to try the best Afghani Pulao.

We ordered Afghani Pulao (5 plates). When they came, the single plate was so big that 2 or 3 people could eat easily. But the pulao was delicious, the sweet carrot and raisins were very tasty and were making the pulao beautiful. A lot of pulao was left which was really heartbreaking as I don't like to waste food at all and also waste of money. The local stray dogs got party of big beef loafs that were left behind.

When we were at Hotel, we asked programs of all the members. The trio wanted to stay 2-3 days more in Islamabad to meet friends. While Waqas wanted to catch flight for Karachi today and I had to catch train to Lahore today also. I asked my cousin to book a ticket for Waqas on PIA website. They gave us 1 hour time in which we had to pay or the booking would get cancelled. PIA ticket can be paid through easy paisa also so we didn't thought it to be a big deal.

Soon we left Takht Bhai and reached Mardan. Stopped at a telecommunication shop. Only I went in and asked the owner, "yaar easy paisa karna hai". Owner, "yaar bhai ka dukan hai wo gya hua hai humko karna nahi aata". OK, moved to another.. "yaar easy paisa karna hai", Owner, "kisko karna hai aur kitna karna hai". Me, " Nahi PIA ke ticket ka bill pay karna hai". Owner, "Nahi paisa chalata hai bill nahi jama hota".

Left that shop too and stopped at another shop ahead and did the same thing. Again the same thing. Now this was the 4th shop I was visiting and was becoming irritated. This guy also said the same but I said,, yaar mobile dikhao easy paisa wala us mai option mai mai dekhta hoon. He gave the mobile in my hand and also made sure to watch my every move.

I went in Menu, selected PIA, they asked for PNR #, I wrote it and then message came on screen for shop owner to collect desired money from customers (us). We paid him, got the confirmation on mobile phone also. The shop owner got really happy and said, yaar bohat acha chiz bata dya hum to sab ko mana karta tha.. I said, ab nahi karna seekh gaya ho na

Now we left and continued through Mardan to Motorway M1

[Xoofi]

Around 1 PM we reached Islamabad, It started to rain. The weather got really good. Soon we reached G6 Markaz from where we went straight to mechanic shop (friend of Bashir) to asses and fix the damages done to the car.

I had to catch the train at 4:30 PM (Subk Raftar Express) while my friend Waqas had to catch the flight at 6 PM. Since the remaining guys still planned to stay in Islamabad for next couple of days, they took the responsibility of returning car, it was also arranged by the contact of Akhter.

We soon did the math to calculate the expense. It equaled to 15600 Rs per person from Islamabad Taxi fare to this point and included everything including meals, tolls, hotels (except for personal kind of expenses).

We (Me and Waqas) said a farewell to these three friends and got a cab which would drop me to Railway Station and then drop Waqas to Airport.

I reached Rawalpindi railway station around 2:30 PM and got the ticket reserved for the train which was to leave at 4:30 PM

[Xoofi]

I sat on a bench at the station. There were still 1.5 hours before train would leave. I surprisingly got a message from Shahzeb @shegg4 that where are you? I replied.. bhai aap ke susraal ke city mai betha hua hoon. Soon after replying got a phone call from him. He asked about trip and few other things and cut of phone.

Soon I got another call from him, Yaar btao kahan bethay ho, mera cousin aa raha tumhare pas.. I immediately got an idea that he must have asked him to provide me something I tried to refuse but he was not listening anything so I had to tell him about my coach and seat nos.

Soon the train came on platform and I sat in the train. It started raining also and just when I thought that he might not be able to make it because of short time and rain, here come Zain, shegg4's cousin and gave me a couple of shopping bags containing goodies.

I really thanked him and said, yaar sorry meri waja se Shahzaib ne tumhain khuwaar karaya But he was also very nice person. Had chat with him for 5 minutes and then train left..

These packets came as a blessing because I was indeed feeling empty now. These contained Macaroni, Russian salad, cold drink and Mithai. Thank you @shegg4

The weather was pretty good and I was enjoying the train journey..

I also phoned an old friend in Jhelum as he had strictly asked me to tell him when I passed from his city.

[Xoofi]

At a station named, "Ghungrila", the train stopped for cross. I couldn't stop my train obsession and decided to take a few shots of the station and on coming train. One guy got curious while I was taking photo and came up to me, "Bhai aap photographer hain". Me: "Haan bus thora bohat". He:"Konsay akhbar ya channel mai hotay hain". Me: "Nahi bhai sirf shokia"

The train reached Jhelum and I met my friend who also brought me snacks and cold drinks. Although tried to return to him but it was not going to happen. I had no place now in my tummy for these so kept in my bag.

Meanwhile, I started to watch photos on my camera and then the guy sitting in front of me started the conversation and asked about tour. Soon were joined by another uncle who was a total look alike of Junaid Jamshed. That guy was also a purana papi. He told me about his trips to Swat, Gilgit etc and also showed me pics on his mobile (through facebook) but all the trips were of 90s before his marriage. He then remembered the old time with friends and told how hard it gets to go on a trip after getting married. His wife was listening also and I guess she must have taken his class after reaching home

We had a really good conversation before Lahore came at 9 PM. My cousin was already waiting for me there. When he saw me, he only said.. Oye kia huliya banaya hua hai.. shave nahi ki puray trip per.. and I was like nahi yaar time nahi mila

Soon we reached home and here the trip ends...

-- THE END --

[Xoofi]

This was one of my most unplanned trip because everything just happened without much of a planning. I enjoyed so much and was able to explore a lot. I didn't even thought in my wildest dream that I would visit Swat this year but I did. It all happened and I'm glad it happened.

A very special thank to these guys for following my thread all the way. It was only your encouragement which helped me to complete the thread without getting bored. Now this thread has become my asset and I can refresh my memories when ever I would want.
@ism1 @versitian @shegg4 @Mohd.Waqas @YAC_Ventura @alvee @usmanshafqat @Wanderlust @shahidutz @mubeenshahid @asifcae @khanzzz @sulaiman75 @aks_e_ahmed (U need to go through in more detail yara )

and all other friends (sorry if I missed anyone's name). Agar add karwana ho to bta dena I'll add more names

[ism1]

WONDERFULLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL DOUBLE THUMBS UP (y) (y)

[usmanshafqat]

Aik to ye CA waloon ke maslay masail nahi khatam hotay.. Bhai PW ko deactivate kar do kuch time ke lye warna is ne kaheen ka nahi rehne dena..

hahaha..... nahi yaar, CA k maslay masail ziada dil pay nahi leta mei
leaving for kashmir tomorrow night inshAllah. usi ki tayari waghaira mei laga hua hun

[hassan79]

@xoofi well done maza aa gia