if changing spark plugs and fuel filter didn't solve the missing issue... get the wiring checked. See further below on which oil is preferred.
You can read details on:
Yaris '99 has one 3 way cat converter and I believe a hot wire mass air flow sensor. Btw, dhakka starting a car (in manual/t) has a major detrimental effect on cat converter.
Tyre inflation pressure should always be checked when tyres are cold. See recommended psi below.
3700 for front left light seems very low. Is it new and original? Sorry to hear about your accident. Thankfully no one was hurt.
Regarding a dent/paint shop, I've been to Auto Club and they seem to do a good job. Last time they matched the paint perfectly. Lets hope they do it this time too!
Yes, guys... I hit a corolla - thanks to the taxi in front of that corolla which turned abruptly. Very minor (and kind'a stupid) accident ... at b/w 5 and 10 kmph... but unfortunately I was looking at the oncoming traffic while turning left on a main road, for that one second when the corolla suddenly hit the brakes! Ended up breaking my bumper and light. The estimate I'm getting for the original light is Rs. 11k from one place and 9k from the other. The taiwan-made is available for around 4k i've heard.
Did you get rid of the squealing noise from your brakes? I started getting similar noise (only in reverse and hi speed braking) after I got my brakes serviced long time back in Karachi. Took it back to the guy... he did some adjustments and its okay now. He said pads were okay, no replacements needed.
Auto/t is better for overall driving. But most serious drivers always go for manual transmission. Generally, people prefer auto/t in the city and m/t on long drives.
All right, here's some info for 1SZ-FE engines (these are the 1000cc engines most of us have) from the user manual of a '99 yaris.
Preferred method for checking engine oil:
When engine is at operating temperature, turn it off for few minutes to allow oil to drain to the bottom of the engine. Wipe the dipstick clean and push it in as far as it will go, or the reading will not be correct. Be careful not to touch hot areas.
- 1.5 liters oil needed b/w "low" and "high" marks
- Avoid overfilling, or the engine could be damaged
Total oil capacity (drain and refill)
- With filter replacement: 3.2 liters
- Without filter replacement: 2.9 liters
API grade SH, "Energy-Conserving II"
API grade SJ, "Energy-Conserving"
ISLAC multigrade engine oil
Recommended viscosity (SAE):
(temperature ranges in degree Centrigrades)
20W-50 -7 to 38 (and above)
15W-40 -2 to 38 (and above)
10W-30 -18 to 38 (and above)
5W-30 -29 (and below) to 38 (and above) - marked as preferred in the manual
So 5W-30 is best for all weather... but in Pakistan, 10W-30 would be as good too.
Zic A is 5W-40 and Zic A+ is 5W-30. So A+ is almost the exact oil preferred for the car!
Toyota Long Life Coolant or equivalent (ethylene-glycol). Use 50% mixture with water (distilled) for protection down to -35 deg C and 60% mixture for protection down to -50 deg C. Do not use more than 70% mixture!
Total coolant capacity:
With heater 4.7 liters
Without heater 4.3 liters
ATF capacity (drain and refill): 2.0 liters
Type: T-IV - change only if needed
Power steering fluid type:
ATF DEXRON II or III
Max fuel capacity: 45 liters
Max allowable speeds in km/h (auto trans):
Toyota recommended tyre pressure (with original tyre sizes):
33 psi (front) and 30 psi (rear). I normally keep them at 32 (front) and 30 (rear).
For the original spec compact spare tyre: 60 psi