All experts please help the car in question is a 95 corolla 2e engine. Recently I took the car to mechanic as car was running heavy meaning ?kay ghut kay chal rahi thi?. Mechanic said only the carburetor has to be cleaned and timing has to be set. So he took out he carb did not open every screw, but just sprayed it carefully with a carb cleaner. Some gunk did came out which was like thickened petrol. Then he put it back on the car and adjusted the vacuum piping using a vacuum gauge. The vacuum piping has previously been messed with and the vacuum gauge needle was also showing the vacuum pressure to be in the green area. Then he adjusted the timing using a timing analyzer and told that when the accelerator is pressed the timing is not advancing up to the mark. For that he advised to get the distributor serviced which I didn?t do. Car was running way better than previously it ever had. Suddenly one week later after a long drive on the way back home when I start the car, it starts but when on idle after some vibration which felt like it's dropping RPM and then stops. I have to start it again and it did the same the whole journey back home continuously starting and stopping on idle only, whether the car was cold or at optimum temperature, so started the AC as I thought it will increase the RPM but same happened on AC as well but not so frequent.
So when I was going to the mechanic next day the car was starting and stopping again on idle only and when cold and as soon as it reached optimum temperature it was fine, mechanic said that small particles might have blocked the carb somewhere and it?s not a big issue he swapped the plug wire no. 2 with no. 3 cranked up the car, car made some phat phat noises then he put the wire back to their original positions and car was fine again. Now the problems:
1. It has been a month since going to the mechanic and the car is doing the same again, it starts and when on idle then feels like it?s loosing RPM and then stops after vibrating this happens when cold only it?s fine when on optimum temp or needle midway between cold and optimal temp. Now can anyone please guide me what the problem is and what is it related to? Should I get the distributor serviced as well and timing set as recommended by him? Also I searched a lot on the net some place it says distributor to be set at 5 deg BTDC and other place it is saying 8 or 10 deg BTDC with sub vacuum pipes off. So which one is correct for the 2e engine.
2. The other problem is there are two vacuum ports on the car still open and when I asked why is it so the mechanic has said the vacuum gauge is showing no pressure when attached to them, he says previous mechanics have blocked them in such a way such that opening them is a cumbersome process. So are they part of the problem? Should I get them opened?
3. When the mechanic was setting the vacuum pipes and as the AC was switched on the vacuum gauge was going haywire and the needle was continuously in the red or white zone. But mechanic after some adjustments brought it in the white zone and the needle was stable. He said that the AC is blocked at some place. Went to sabir AC and he opened the evaporator coil in about 8 years, for the first time I have seen anyone opening it and obviously it was clogged badly he serviced the AC thoroughly and was saying everything is fine. Now when I go to the mechanic again and on AC if the vacuum gauge needle still shows that it is in red or white zone what could be the problem? Forgot to mention AC was serviced between this trouble free period.
Sorry in advance to all, for such a detailed problem.
For Solution: https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/cor...-2#post4892387
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