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Thread: Suzuki GS150 (Photos and comments)

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    Default Suzuki GS150 (Photos and comments)

    Dear All,

    You are welcome to post photos and comments of Suzuki GS150 only.

    As a request please specify the year of manufacture of your bike as it helps distinguish different models. A lot of new buyers want to know about this bike, so please post your experience regarding GS150 as well.

    Thank you.



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    ^Lol at ur friend tell him to visit pakwheels, one person can overestimate a machine but everyone who owns this bike says the same thing which concludes that it is one quality machine, although front disks would have made it a super-awesome machine but it still is the best cruiser one can have in pakistan

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    yes it is ....

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    Quote Originally Posted by supercop5000 View Post
    ^Lol at ur friend tell him to visit pakwheels, one person can overestimate a machine but everyone who owns this bike says the same thing which concludes that it is one quality machine, although front disks would have made it a super-awesome machine but it still is the best cruiser one can have in pakistan
    CORRECTION: One of the best ...

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    Red face

    hmmm strict

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    well.. now i have done additional 100 kms with under 5.5k rpms and 60km/h in the city and so far my fuel avg is about 40km/lit

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    yes and i have done 188 km above 6rpm 80to85km/h

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    Quote Originally Posted by rulfat View Post
    yes and i have done 188 km above 6rpm 80to85km/h
    IMHO u should not do that with ur new bike u should ride it under 5k or so for initial 1200kms it would be better for ur engine

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    @supercop5000 it goes to 70/80 quickly .its 150 and i think 80km/h is okay.what do you think ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by rulfat View Post
    @supercop5000 it goes to 70/80 quickly .its 150 and i think 80km/h is okay.what do you think ?
    its not okay even its 150 cc, note ur rpms at this speed ,
    ur rpms should stay under 5000 in every gear till 1000 kms or so

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    i have 2008 model gs-150. i must say its a cruiser bike for long distance. consumption wise its not a good choice ,mine is doing only 32 km in 1 liter if i drive it at 80plus speed in 5th gear. front brake is not so responsive....

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    @umer009...oh i see

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    @rulfat as said by Umer it it not good thing to do with your new engine.

    BUT!!! i did some googling and found these:

    Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

    New Engine Break-in Procedure

    after reading these i am in doubt with my own engine break-in methods which are usually suggested by everyone.

    what do the experts here at pakwheels say about it?


    Kindly fully read the first link and comment

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    @ supercop
    i ve also read in in the past, what i can say abt it is that its a total crap written on it ,
    always consult the motorcycle manual for advice and they have clearly written that break in is very important for long life ,
    motorcycle manufacturers are nt fool to right abt its importance , they know how their product will perform if certain measures are taken
    so its my advice to all of u to strictly follow the manual for the prolong life of ur engine

  15. #174
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    Engine braking is good only in emergency conditions(wen apply on high speeds)but on low speed its ok if u apply it on high speed (were u really dnt need )to apply then ur engine will be having OIL SEAL LEAKING prob.
    DAVIL MAY CRY

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    @adeel060 i dont get the picture mate, what r u trying to say? i suppose u r confusing "break-in" with "engine braking"

    Although i m not a pro but the concept behind the BREAK-IN or INITIAL RUNNING of the engine is quite sound, if our local brands follows that cylinder honing method, which is quite obvious.
    Most of the people incl mechanics say that do not push ur ride to higher RPMs and keep it under 45km/h for atleast initial 500kms in order to achieve the so called proper RUNNING of the engine, i myself was doing the same but after some research i have found that this is quit a controversial topic and most of the people say that short bursts of hard acceleration in its initial period are quit essential for the proper binding of piston rings to cylinder wall which as a result produces max amount power out of the engine and increase its life b/c the combustion gasses are not contaminating the crank case section since the rings r properly sealed.

    @umer009 yes u r right but the manual does not explains the full break-in procedure it just says that one should avoid the driving style which produces heat for long times, we can do that by applying short bursts of acceleration and the slowing down or stopping to cool the engine down that is in fact what is suggested by many on the net. Quoting one from my links:
    "Most people seem to operate on the philosophy that they can best get their money's worth from any mechanical device by treating it with great care. This is probably true, but in many cases it is necessary to interpret what great care really means. This is particularly applicable when considering the break-in of a modern, reciprocating engine.

    For those who still think that running the engine hard during break-in falls into the category of cruel and unusual punishment, there is one more argument for using high power loading for short periods (to avoid excessive heat) during the break-in. The use of low power settings does not expand the piston rings enough, and a film of oil is left on the cylinder walls. The high temperatures in the combustion chamber will oxidize this oil film so that it creates glazing of the cylinder walls. When this happens, the ring break-in process stops, and excessive oil consumption frequently occurs. The bad news is that extensive glazing can only be corrected by removing the cylinders and rehoning the walls. This is expensive, and it is an expense that can be avoided by proper break in procedures.

    We must achieve a happy medium where we are pushing on the ring hard enough to wear it in but not hard enough to generate enough heat to cause glazing. Once again, if glazing should occur, the only remedy is to remove the effected cylinder, re-hone it and replace the piston rings and start the whole process over again."


    some more quotes from engine builders:

    We asked four top motorcycle engine builders what they do to ensure peak power output and optimum engine life. Here is a capsulation of their responses.

    "If the wrong type of oil is used initially, or the break-in is too easy, rings and cylinders could (read will) glaze and never seal properly. A fresh cylinder wall needs some medium to high engine loading to get the piston rings to seat properly for good compression but make sure you don't lug or overheat the engine. Use high quality, low viscosity oil (Valvoline 30 weight), no synthetics, too slippery. If synthetics are used during initial break in the rings are sure to glaze over.


    An engine's initial run should be used to bring oil and coolant (air, oil, and/or water) up to operating temperature only, with little or no load, then shut down and allowed to cool to ambient temperature. This is important. After each run the engine needs to completely cool down to ambient temperature. In Texas, especially in the summer, that's still pretty hot. After a cool down period, start it up again and take the motorcycle for it's fist ride (you hope).


    This time give the engine light loads at relatively low rpm and stay out of top gear. Lugging the engine, i.e., low RPM with a lot of throttle (manifold pressure), is more detrimental than high rpm. Another key is too constantly vary engine load during the entire break-in period. A constant load is not ideal for breaking in bearing tolerances. This second run should last only 10-15 minutes before another complete cool down.


    The third run should see slightly higher rpm with light to medium power loading using short bursts of acceleration to help seat the rings. Again 10-15 minutes of running should do it and again avoid top gear. A forth run should consist of light to medium engine loads with a few more bursts of medium-high rpm, and lasting just 10-15 minutes varying the engine load and again avoiding top gear. Next while the engine is still warm drain the oil and change the filter. This gets out the new metal particles that are being worn away. Most of the metal particles will break away within the first 50 -75 miles. To ensure the rings seat well, use the same high quality oil and don't be shy about short duration high rpm blasts through the lower gears after the oil has been changed.


    A few more 15-20 minute sessions should be used to work up to the engine's redline gradually increasing the engine loads. After some definite hard running and 250-500 miles it's a good idea to check the valves. After 500 miles re-torqueing the head is suggested. Switch to synthetic oil but not before 500-1500 miles. Most of the engine experts warned of the danger of breaking in the engine too easily and ending up with an engine that will always run slow whether it is from tight tolerances, inadequate ring seal or carbon buildup. Engine load is more detrimental than rpm because of the head created internally, so avoid lugging the engine but rev it freely especially in the lower gears. Basically, be sure not to get it too hot but be sure to seat the rings properly.


    So that's it, sure a lot different than keeping under 4000 rpm for 500 miles then under 5000 rpm for 1000 miles. Maybe bike manufacturers are being super cautious at the expense of your motor's performance? I think that they take the cautious route that works over time (1000 miles, or about 20 hours of break in) versus a faster route that can be more easily screwed up."


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    i see...

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    So, I finally bought the Deluxe's rear tyre 90-90/18. I wanted something better than the standard Panther 3.00-18 that came with the bike.

    Here are some photos:


    Suzuki GS150 Photos and comments -177478 Suzuki GS150 Photos and comments -177479 Suzuki GS150 Photos and comments -177480 Suzuki GS150 (Photos and comments) - 177481Suzuki GS150 (Photos and comments) - 177482 Suzuki GS150 (Photos and comments) - 177483
    Attached Images Attached Images   

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    The results are that Service tyre 90-90/18 maybe have slightly better looks than the Panther 3.00-18 but the Service tyre does not have any traction regarding stopping. This tyre just skids and skids on the road when braking hard. The break-shoes are good, I only have 1070kms on the bike.
    I think it is probably due to the rim width of the GS150's rear wheel, which is narrower compared to the Deluxe. In this way, this tyre does not gets it contact-width on the road, hence braking distance is increased.
    As a result, after buying this tyre for Rs. 1450 plus a few extra for tyre change, I am not satisfied with this tyre.
    I know that some people prefer this tyre for the GS150, so if it suits you then good but for me it was a waste of time and money.




    Suzuki GS150 Photos and comments -177485

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    @amjad ch,,,,well i think the combination was deluxe tyre to be used with deluxe rim....then it might gives better traction due to contact of tyre with the road......

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    @rulfat, thanks for your reply.

    I think the same that better results might be attainable, if I use the Deluxe's rim with the same tyre. So, I will think about that if the alteration is not too troublesome, I don't want to change the rim and then end up with braking issues, etc. The other thing is that I might go to Saddar and look for a decent tyre of 18 for the bike, maybe a yokohama or dunlop will solve it.

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