I have just completed my first solo trip on Karakoram Highway that involved drive of 2,287km. I returned back to this route after 12 years. It was my dream to drive on this wonderful highway and this experience proved awesome; one cannot feel complete flavor of KKH on public transport. During my entire trip, I did not see a single local tourist. I did meet two guys from UK who entered Pakistan from Chinese border for exit at Wagha border Lahore.
Initially, I was reluctant after failing to receive latest report about KKH. Then I called a guy in Skurdu who informed me that KKH is now well patrolled by police and army and that I should travel during day light after Besham. At that point I decided "do it".
Security update:
There are a number of police check posts once you leave Burhan Interchange. At some check posts you will also see a couple of army folks who are there for back up. Police will ask you about your origin, destination and ID Card. At times, they asked me additional questions as I was a subject of curiosity for being alone. At Harban Nala before Chilas, check post checked original registration documents of my car. This was due to all "custom chor" cars in the area. Two thumbs up for KPK/Kohistani Police; they were polite and courteous. I stopped somewhere in Kohistan area and a police patrol jeep stopped by and asked if I am OK. One policeman even changed punctured tyre of my car. Sindh and Punjab police, are you there????
After Besham, your companions on KKH will only be trucks. Kohistan police vans patrol regularly between Besham and Chilas. One will also see policemen on foot at random locations. <o:p></o:p><o:p></o:p>Like 12 years ago, still there is close to no traffic between Dassu and Chilas. Public transport between Besham and Gilgit is operating only in caravans and only during day time. All buses/Vans must leave Rawalpindi during night time and must reach Besham on or before 8 in the morning so that they can reach Gilgit in day light. Likewise public transport leaving Hunza/Gilgit must leave early in the morning to reach Besham before Ishha. I noticed that this is true, I just saw bus a couple of times and at that time I stopped my car on the road side because I know there will be a number of vans and buses that are following this bus and that they are driving like mad bulls to reach their destination at designated time slot. Or else they will have to face the police. Police has to escort the caravan to Besham/Gilgit if they are late and it is already night.
I dont't know why it is unusual to travel alone in Pakistan. Police and locals first question was if I am alone. When I said "yes" they always said if I am on business travel? When I said "no", they were surprised and asked a variety of questions and advised to not travel alone on such a long stretch. Even an uncle targeted me at a Chilas restaurant NATCO stopover and shared a drink with me while asking some friendly questions. I concluded that he must be a retired army personnel currently serving intelligence.
Road condition
Haripur to Thakot - Newly paved after Mansehra
Thakot to Chilas - Average with some bad stretches. Same old road that is being maintained but upper asphalt layer is worn out and brakes may not be 100% effective..... be careful.
Raikot to Thalichi - worst. Asphalt layer and dust stone have washed away and road has revealed nailed crush stone. Every meter was giving 10's of jerks. I have to put one wheel of my car on the edge of the road where dust settles down from truck tyres. This dust on the edge was like bed of roses for me and my car. This was the most depressing stretch of over an hour, may be partially because it was Nanga Parbat's area. The experience was the same that I experienced on foot in the year 1998 when I hiked from Raikot to Tattu. Hottttt and boring but this time in the cabin of my car.
Thalichi to Jaglot - Newly paved in excellent condition.
Jaglot to Hunza bridge on Gilgit river - worst condition similar to the stretch between Raikot and Thalichi with the only difference that you will see human beings around.
Road to Hunza - newly paved up to Rakaposhi view point. From the view point to Aliabad, road is partially paved with dust stone but no pain for the car and driver.
Aliabad to Karimabad - newly paved
Karimabad to Atabad lake - no road exists.
Overall, KKH has still maintained its dominance since the time it was built. All along there is risk of landslides. In fact, once you leave Mansehra, this is an ongoing reminder from KKH that you are not driving on an ordinary highway. I am not a slow driver but there I was extremely cautious because on one side was Indus and on the other side consistent landslides.
Thanks to Almighty Allah I and my car returned back home safe and sound.
If you are allergic of dust then I will not advise you to hop on KKH. My car was painted with a thick layer of dust. I have to change air and AC filter when I returned back to Lahore; another Rs. 4,000 added to the trip's cost :)
