In quest of Abottabad (ایبٹ آباد آ ہی جاۓ گا )
I was given specific instructions about the route to Berin Gali. Which were pretty simple ones, follow the main trail, once you reach a meadow like area, take the left path down towards the valley and never take a right. Ironic, isn’t it, the right turn was the left one and right turns were always wrong ones.
Most of the path was on the ridge of mountains called Bagnotar Range. On left side of the ridge was Bagnotar valley which end up at Bagnotar and then Abottabad, where as on it’s right was Azad Kashmir and Jhelum river. I found that out on the map, but due to low battery and no signals, it was not of much help.
It did not rain but it was moist and humid in the forest. My trousers was wet in no time. There was a small stream of water as I was told about at exact 15 minutes distance. Now, I did not specifically asked about the meadows and at on point I felt like I was there and took a left. It was a quick descend and from dense forest I ended up and dried fields and couple of homes in almost an hour. Map showed me long way from Berin Gali and completely on a wrong spot. I stood there, still. I did not want to offend the locals, and the twin dogs nearby one of the homes. I called many times to see if anyone can come out to help but to no success. Only response and attention I received was from dogs. I had not only wasted time but a lot of energy as well. I climbed back up, which was exhausting due to steepness and humidity.
view that encompasses whole valley including Phalkot, Berin Gali and Thandiani at distance
As I got on the main trek again, I started the straight path. It was a long and complex journey of faith. I would look at the mountains to find the path, and then the map to see if that will take me to Berin Gali. Map was hopeless, I was so far away and there was no path that was going straight. Even the main path curved left. I had no option but to follow that, still it was better then the right one.
At far distance, I could hear people. At some point I could hear an electric saw and some kids playing. Passed a few summer dwellings but all were empty. At some point I found a pipeline and decided to follow that. It was a good companion. I new I was descending into a place which was half way before Berin Gali but now I just wanted to descend.
Road from Phalkot
I grabbed the sour candy from my pocket and it brought me into senses. Finally I reached a home where was on the edge of forest and land of men. I saw kids playing outside and asked if there was an elder at the home. An elderly lady appeared. Who confirmed me that I was at Phalkot. On my asking, she pointed down the valley at the village from where I could get a vehicle to Abottabad. She offered the food and tea but I excused. Again helped by another elderly lady who cleared that all the routes go to village so I did not have to worry anymore to pick the right one.
A landscape of Phalkot
Village was pretty far down. I had to zigzag and pass through a lot of homes where mostly kids or women were working. An old man was sitting on the brink of the road looking at the people working in the fields below. As I approached, he greeted, guided and shared about his life. He had worked in Karachi as a road constructor for most of his life. Now he has retired and has homes in Phalkot and Abottabad. He told me about the names of villages and people living in them. It took me 10 more minutes to reach the stop from where I was going to find a vehicle.
A wall of mountain barely hanging there, ready to come down with the rain
But I did not find any.
In these valleys, people drive to main town or city nearby early morning and just at afternoon they drive back and that is pretty much all. They don’t drive extra or again. There were vehicles there but drivers were not ready to take anyone. Another family was waiting for vehicle. I was told to walk down to “Bara” where I could find a vehicle easily. So I was on my way
I did not find any vehicle there either.
On a local restaurant, I took tea and some Pakora’s which was just divine. They were in no comparison with my Chachu or Mamu’s Pakora’s but at the time and place, they provided me the perfect taste. I started walking again, I sort of enjoyed this walk because the views were getting greener, stream was becoming bigger and I was now closer to the Abottabad-Nathiagali road.
Snack time
I tried to stop many people on wheels but to no avail. Most of the vehicles were either private or full. At a spot the view was so beautiful, as I was taking the picture, a vehicle stopped. Driver new me from my reputation for the day. He finally got me back to Abottabad.
From there, as usual, I took the salon back to Rawalpindi and ended my trip full of horror and adventure.
Whereas I am a planer and try to plan every aspect of my trip, I did this trip as pioneer for my future trips for solo camping, flexible routes and less known areas. It boosted my confidence in myself and hospitality of people. Since I am writing this after 2 months of this trip, so I assure you, it actually worked and I made several more trips like that. I hope you found what you were looking for in this article, may be information, entertainment or inspiration.
The End
https://karakorumdiary.wordpress.com/2021/07/30/night-at-dagri-bangla/
