Abobobilly's CG125 Thread - Its Evolution and Stuff I Changed

[amjad635]

First of all i would like to comment on patrol situation yeah its terrible in lahore & other
cities of punjab its really sad to know i can understand how difficult it is to live in such
situation here in sindh when there is strike which mostly expected all patrol are shut
it becomes really difficult to go for some work or when in city & patrol finishes

Its good to know that you have worked alot on this before going for attempting personally
i don't recommend beginner to do this as person with improper knowledge if goes for this work
it may result to serious damage to bike engine

Well it depends on you if with convenience can access valves than yes no need to remove tank
i personally have never attempted on cg engine but i just used to think if i have cg to tune it
will require me to remove tank

Yes Kindly share video i am still interested in this stuff if have not seen that video i will download it

[abobobilly]

First of all i would like to comment on patrol situation yeah its terrible in lahore & other
cities of punjab its really sad to know i can understand how difficult it is to live in such
situation here in sindh when there is strike which mostly expected all patrol are shut
it becomes really difficult to go for some work or when in city & patrol finishes

Shh ... bro don't disturb. "Taraqqi ho rahi hay".

I blame those mofos equally who vote for these corrupt politicians. Should i direct your attention to the August 2014 Inqilaab/Azadi march, where whole city was blocked with containers, fuel stations were shut down, yet people still called "the protesters" being the culprit. (yes, this means i don't believe about those PSO's problems, which are obviously artificially generated) Ab bhugto.

I really want to puch those mofos in the face who still chant "taraqqi ho rahi hay". No gas, no clean water, no bijli, no petrol ... yehi hay "Roshan Pakistan".

---

Its good to know that you have worked alot on this before going for attempting personally
i don't recommend beginner to do this as person with improper knowledge if goes for this work
it may result to serious damage to bike engine

Well in my defense, my engine is already close to next opening (for head/cylinder work; i am opting for a cylinder change as i don't want to bore, and will change all the parts including Piston, Valves, and probably Cam Followers).

So whats the worse which can happen? Engine Seal? Nah. At best it'll increase the wear rate for valves, and considering what i have mentioned above, i don't think i need to worry about it

Well it depends on you if with convenience can access valves than yes no need to remove tank
i personally have never attempted on cg engine but i just used to think if i have cg to tune it
will require me to remove tank.

Incase of CG125, removing tank is equally inconvenient. Its much easier to just open up the cover of tappets, and do the task.

Yes Kindly share video i am still interested in this stuff if have not seen that video i will download it

Here it is brother.

//youtu.be/https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-4CrFwli-v0

YouTube Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-4CrFwli-v0
Playit.pk Link: CG125 HONDA CG 125 VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT TUTORIAL - PlayIt.pk

[hamikhan]

abobobilly dear you can do it just no need to fear from any thing it is not as much difficult as ppl has make it. it is very easy procedure just need to understand i am here to help you out maximum after 2 or 3 tuning of your bike you will be an expert of valves adjusment

[ammarzahid]

How many times has your engine been opened?

[abobobilly]

abobobilly dear you can do it just no need to fear from any thing it is not as much difficult as ppl has make it. it is very easy procedure just need to understand i am here to help you out maximum after 2 or 3 tuning of your bike you will be an expert of valves adjusment

Have i told you guys about my experience regarding the front shocks of my bike?

I had been visiting different denters, mechanics and what not ... NEVER got the setting right. Then i opened it all up myself. It took my nearly 10 tries, before i got the perfect setting i wanted (been using it ever since and its been a blast).

So yeah, i fully agree with your point. I know i can't do it exactly right on my first try. But i know myself, that i will open do it multiple times, to get it right, until i get it EXACTLY the way i want (thats how i am). Will surely bug you guys once i do it.

How many times has your engine been opened?

Once before.

I did share my experience here as well. Here is a few pics i took back then (I think it was July 2013): CG125 Engine Work - Imgur

[hamikhan]

abobobilly dear valves adjust kernay ka sahee tarika yay hay k sab say pehlay appko piston ko TDC per lana ho ga TDC means TOP DEAD CENTER oos kay leay app apni bike key magnet cover ko khol ker oos ko rotate kero *** aur magnet per T mark ho ga oos ko ghuma ker bike kay engine piece per koi mark ho ga oos kay samnay lao *** abb app engine head cover open ker kay dekho k donon valves kay rocker arms main play aa gayee ho gee agar play na ayee to magnet ko dubara ghuma ker issey position per lao play aa jayee gee abb app apni feeler gauge key matluba patti dal ker measurement check kero aur measurement thek kero for example agar measurement .05mm hay to .05mm wali pati jani chaheay aur .08mm wali nahin jani chaheay.......mazeed app key help kay leay 1 adad picture upload ker raha hoon umeed hay ics say app ko samajhnay main aasani ho gee

[abobobilly]

I tried to do valve clearance last night. It seemed very easy at first, and i even adjusted the clearance just fine. I didn't realize that the piston is at wrong TDC (should be at 'compression stroke'). I might be mistaken, but it was the main point which took nearly 4 hours of night from me :S (That reminds me of my frist "front forks oil refilling job" lol).

Their are two TDC positions on a 4 stroke i.e. TDC on compression stroke and TDC on exhaust stroke. So after lining up the timing marks you would check which stroke you are on by checking if all valves are closed and all rockers free of the valves. If they aren't you would turn the engine round a complete cycle and check again.

The major problem i was facing was related to TDC only. At either strokes (compression or exhuast), the magneto just would not align perfectly on T mark.

My first valve clearance job isn't very good. But i haven't started the bike up so can't say lol

[abobobilly]

Okay so previous valve adjustment was definitely wrong (on exhaust stroke, definitely). Because the bike wouldn't start, and it was making a horrible 'clunk', coming from chamber.

My 2nd try, just now ... seems to be better. Finally figured out the compression stroke. But a test drive made it obvious that valves are a bit too loose (cold start was absolutely amazing, though). I'll try it again, tomorrow InShaALLAH. Will leave the bike to cool off for the night.

[amjad635]

oh that not good experience can frustrate beginner but i say don't be frustrate
next time do with more care & concentration and make check list first set
the piston at top dead center in compression stroke for convenient or easy
movement of magneto first remove spark plug than rotate it. it will move freely
and mechanics use some kinda tool to hold magneto at T position take help from
them in this ask them what tool it is buy that tool

and yeah important don't forget what Dongiovvani said if with all your best efforts
if final results are again & again resulting in loose valves than that could be case of
inaccurate feeler gauge

[hamikhan]

abobobilly dear mainay market say wohi 110 pkr wali feeler gauge he purchase key hay aur oosey say he valves ko adjust kerta hoon oos feeler gauge key measurements 100% correct hain app ko sirf intake valve key measurement ko adjust kerna ho ga aur exhaust valve key measurement ko boht boht he kam adjust kerna perta hay bhai jesay jesay app valve ko adjust kero *** vesay vesay app ko sab kutch samjh aana shuru ho jayee ga

[mohsinwahhab]

The same feeler guage I bought only 110 rs and tappet adjuster 80 rs ka lya hai aap key waley sey thora lamba hai first time mujh sey bhi nhe hwa tha per dobara kya tu ho gya setting bht aasan hai piston jub top dead center tdc per aajata hai to dono rocker arm same position per aajatey han warna aik thora aagey hota hai aur dosra pechey

[abobobilly]

So i have done TWO more tries today.

3rd Try ... Tappet Adjustment was again loose. I have noticed that if I try to do adjustment on a very cold engine (the result of leaving it overnight, to cool down) ... the adjustment is never done right by me.

So on 4th Try ... i warmed the bike up for 1 or 2 minutes. Tappets were loose, so cold start was absolutely amazing (started on 2nd kick, where previously i had to give choke for like 5 minutes straight due to extremely cold weather, for the bike to idle OK). Left the bike to cool off for next 30 minutes. And then started the adjustment.

Used this fankaari to hold the flywheel this time

Anyway, engine needs work so there is still too much knocking sound (but much less than before) when the bike heats up to optimal temperature. Otherwise, the tappet noise is greatly reduced. Still a bit loose, as per a 3rd opinion (from a helpful neighbour mechanic/kharadia); but they are OK.

So yeah, I DID IT ... kinda Hopefully, i'll get it done better the next time i do it (which won't be soon, not before next 1500 kms)

[abobobilly]

I am getting close to a complete top end rebuild, and among other horrible noises coming from engine, there is one peculiar sound, most noticeable when you cover the exhaust mouth (i.e. muffle its noise with a cloth)

Its like, ghoon ghoon, but very mild. One mechanic said it's the sound of "Cam Gerrari", whatever this thing is called. Does anyone have any idea about it? Please share.

He also said that I don't need to buy Genuine which is very expensive, at some Rs.2600 (his words), and I should rather use Taiwani or Vendor; because as per him, both have same life cycle.

Any help on this? @vickytulla?

[r1]

Same issue with my bike, mechanic quote me Rs. 3300/ for genuine AHL cam shaft gear, pivot kit and Rs. 1500/ fitting charges.

[Chaudhary007]

Do check the cam followers condition as well, and as far as i remember you didn't change the piston last time so better get it changed as well since it getting opened to avoid future issues.

Also get these small components replaced such as washels, 0 rings, cam gear shaft and pivot shaft.

[abobobilly]

@r1! Wow. Thats a lot.

How are you checking for noise, btw? The same way i did? And are your tappets making excessive noises even when they are tight?

@chaudhary007 ! Well when i said "complete top end rebuild", i was indeed putting emphasis on "complete". That means, i am aiming to change each and everything, including cam followers, valve springs, rockers (if needed), cylinder (definitely; not into boring and stuff) ... etc etc. I am sure its going to cost me much more than i currently have (which is like Rs.13k). But i am confident a complete to end rebuild will be more reliable in long run for me.

[Chaudhary007]

@Chaudhary007 ! Well when i said "complete top end rebuild", i was indeed putting emphasis on "complete". That means, i am aiming to change each and everything, including cam followers, valve springs, rockers (if needed), cylinder (definitely; not into boring and stuff) ... etc etc. I am sure its going to cost me much more than i currently have (which is like Rs.13k). But i am confident a complete to end rebuild will be more reliable in long run for me.

Not sure about other parts but i got a quote for someone a month back and it went something like this

Cylinder genuine AHL = 1500
Ring piston (complete set incl pin) = 950
Push rods = 500
Valve Stem seals = 220
Gasket set = 250
Valves = 950

Not sure about other stuff like rocker arms assembly and cam followers.
Never go for bore and sleeve, i can't recall the number of times i have met people who start complaining a month after they had head work done about oil leakage and what not, just because they have bore done.

Also better have a look at your clutch plates and pressure plates as well.

Clutch Plates Rs. 2250/-
Pressure Plates Rs. 450/-

All these rates would be comparatively less in Lahore and labour charges cannot exceed 1-1.5k max. I think 13k is more than sufficient budget to get the entire work done.

• Buy parts yourself from good genuine whole sale shop (AHL antenna shop preferred)
• Never compromise on genuine parts even the small stuff.
• Get entire work done infront of you

I know you are experienced and have had a lot of work done but still my 2 cents

[handsome21]

Same issue with my bike, mechanic quote me Rs. 3300/ for genuine AHL cam shaft gear, pivot kit and Rs. 1500/ fitting charges.

This is khandani bemari of cg.

[vickytulla]

You already got pretty good explanation from R1 and Chaudary007...

but other then all the stuff which you are going to replace or rebuild, do give a keen eye too the Head and try to detect any de-formity or crack or and signs of wear and tear becuase its made of aluminim and the most 'nazuk' area is very the rocker plate is fitted it gets deformed due to excessive tighting which mechnis do becuase they dont have any idea of torque values which are important while working with aluminium stuff...

tu jab ye akheer tight ker detay hain tu Plate apni orignal jaga say thor out ho jati hai and leads to many diseases including snapping of pushrod e.t.c...

The GOON GOON sound might alo persit even after replaing all parts which are discussed right now and that happens when the Cylender Groove in which the CAM sprocket is fitted is widened (which can be detected only by micro gauges e.t.c..)

so long story short cylender or head ko aik dafa check ker lena k new saman fit honay per kahi dheela tu nahi they should fit like brand new .. tight and sealed..

BTW Bike kitna Chal chuki hai (Total KM) or konsa model year hai?

I am getting close to a complete top end rebuild, and among other horrible noises coming from engine, there is one peculiar sound, most noticeable when you cover the exhaust mouth (i.e. muffle its noise with a cloth)

Its like, ghoon ghoon, but very mild. One mechanic said it's the sound of "Cam Gerrari", whatever this thing is called. Does anyone have any idea about it? Please share.

He also said that I don't need to buy Genuine which is very expensive, at some Rs.2600 (his words), and I should rather use Taiwani or Vendor; because as per him, both have same life cycle.

Any help on this? @vickytulla?

[amjad635]

so atlast in the 4th try you are some what satisfied with the results
i think your experience is increasing and you have started to know
behaviour of cg valves