Ask Xulfiqar - An Automotive Encyclopedia

[anc]

@xulfiqar should we add tap water with coolant or distilled water or de-ionized water should be used?

[ajall]

Aoa. I found original number plates of Toyota Prius,
LE-13-8555. If anyone knows the owner, who is Mr Shahbaz, as I have checked through excise and taxation Web site, please contact me. Or please give it vide circulation so that the owner could reach to me.
Regards.

[mallic]

@Xulfiqar...AoA bro...based on your experience what you suggest about best possible petrol engine swap for 2005 model 5 door Prado(JDM) with prior D4D engine? Can you suggest any price idea with your suggestion. D4D is also available from a nose cut and complete swap with transmission will roughly cost 2.75-3.5Lakh. The prado belongs to my friend and a daily runner and he is keen to put a petrol engine in it. appreciate your suggestion.

[Xulfiqar]

whats wrong with the original 1KD-FTV engine?

[Equinox1]

@xulfiqar can you explain The SRS unit is critical to correct functioning of the CVT.

[Xulfiqar]

the SRS control unit (air bag computer) has the acceleration sensor (G sensor) inside it that relays information to the ECU that the car is either accelerating or decelerating quickly or slowly. If the ECU cannot see this it relies on a base setting which translates to rough driving.

That G sensor is used to trigger airbags in the event of a crash/topple etc.

Most toyo CVT owners (all used JDM orphan cars) are faced with this dilemma of a bad functioning CVT because of missing airbags and frozen SRS unit.

[ahsan1702]

Gears dont tend to engage after a rough drive in stop go traffic. Recently changed clutch but issue was persistent before too.

Havent changed the gear oil in a while. Would you recommend the same ?

[Xulfiqar]

change gear oil first and then retest

[ajall]

Sir, Xulfiqar, your comments please, regarding engine braking at low Rpm, Toyo CVT.
DFCO
Deceleration Fuel Cut Off. An advanced engine system in the Yaris that cuts off the fuel supply when decelerating while in gear (engine braking, without touching the accelerator at all). Taking advantage of this feature allows for even greater fuel efficiency, and is completely automatic and seamless.

[ajall]

Sir, Xulfiqar, your comments please.
What is DFCO?*
Deceleration Fuel Cut Off. An advanced engine system in the Yaris that cuts off the fuel supply when decelerating while in gear (engine braking, without touching the accelerator at all). Taking advantage of this feature allows for even greater fuel efficiency, and is completely automatic and seamless

[Xulfiqar]

seems like toyota thinks all its customers are silly.

all EFI engines cut off fuel on deceleration and overrun

[ab6666]

Plzz help me! My car ie mehran when goes to normal temperature its pick reduces on petrol and cng. No mechanic was able to detect the problem plzzzzzzzz help me zulfiqaar bhai

bro @zulfiqaar help plzz

[nomi700]

Will there be any impact if copper spark plugs are replaced with irridium ones in I-DSI 2007?? Any recommendation?? @Xulfiqar, kindly provide your input.

[qwertypoiu]

Nope, just that they would run longer.

[nomi700]

Nope, just that they would run longer.

Any impact on fuel consumption??

Sent from my iPhone using PW Forums

[alyrazaa]

Hi Xulfiqar Bhai..... I have been through confusion for last few days and fijally decided to have your opinion on my problem... i had been using vitz 2006/10 in pakistan which i have now sold..... now i am looking for a car in budget of approx 1 million.... options i have include another vitz 2009/13 or 2010/14, corolla xli/gli 2007/08 or 2009/10 and city 2007/08 or 2009 ..... i am really confused ti decide which car will be best for me.... all i need is a satisfactory fuel consumption, sensiblee maintenance cost and little driving comfort...... appreciate your advise on this as i plan to keep this car for next 3-4 yrs at least.......... thank you as always

[mallic]

its consuming almost 1ltr oil/300KM drive so toyota dealership and our mechanic advised to install Kabili nose cut. wud you also recommend to consider petrol engine? 4.0 or 4.7ltr? and what additional changes we have to consider beside complete engine +transmission+ECU+ fuel lines etc if opted for petrol engine?

[zainiqbal1990]

@xulfiqar

Good news! The idle issue is solved! When the car was bought the vacuum line which goes in the distributor was blocked by a small bolt if i remember. I unblocked it and inserted in the distributor pod. Since then car started having idling and starting issues slowly and slowly. Long time ago my mechanic had tied up the round vacuum pod using a plastic thin band type thing. He told me it's cracked. As time passed the plastic band became loose and car started to have idling issues and i wasn't aware of this at all. Tried everything and asked you regarding this issue but nothing help. Then one day i took off the vacuum pipe from vacuum pod and blocked it with a bolt. Started the car and the car started on CNG in first self and RPM as smooth as silk with or without A/C. Also got rid of the plastic thin band my mechanic had tied and then i applied magic to that cracked area and the vacuum pod was attached to the distributor pretty firmly. Everything was perfect. Went on a little drive. Parked my car to get something came back and started it but it refused to start. Opened the hood and found the vacuum pod popped out and the Magic formula had failed. Used the same plastic rope to tie the pod back again which i found lying on the road. I was surprised! Same color same thing. Allah helped me. Started the car and went to my electrician. He said Plaza jakar waha sai vacuum ka aesa 1 pod lena hoga for permanent solution. Time was around 7 PM and for sure 99% of Plaza market was closed. Told him to do a jugar for then i will later go and get one. He then took a thin steel wire and tied the pod up. It's rock solid now. Almost a week now and no issues. Though the vacuum pipe which goes in the distributor is still blocked. Single self on cold start on CNG no issues MA. Idles as smooth as silk with or without A/C. Had removed distributor cap and cleaned the 4 small terminals and 4 round slots where plug wire goes in. Used WD-40, sandpaper and a cloth. Just minor cleaning. White powder had built up in one of 4 slots. Tired to clean it the best i could while being careful at the same time but that white power is still in that one slot where plug wire goes. I guess the one that gives spark to piston number 3.

[zainiqbal1990]

@xulfiqar

If you remember my radiator top was leaking. Went to Plaza and got a new radiator top tank installed. A copper one. And to my surprise the bottom tank of the radiator is genuine! Earlier i had told you that the bottom radiator tank is also changed but it isn't! My electrician told me to get a new switch which fits in the bottom radiator tank if you want fans to turn on and off automatically. Bought a new switch and took it to him so he can install it. But then he told me there is no place to install it on your radiator's bottom tank because it's not original so returned the switch. He lied! I guess my idiot electrician lied to me because he loves making fans run direct. Earlier both fans were ran directly with ignition. But later my electrician made the smaller fan run only when A/C is turned on. He says both fan running at the same time will make your battery drain real quick. Well if this is the reason then why didn't he made both the fans run automatically. Damn! I wanted to ask should both the fans work together? For example the bigger fan is on auto factory setup and when car reaches a certain temperature should it trigger both the fans or the bigger one only? And if the car is cold and i turn the A/C on should it trigger both the fans or just the smaller one on a genuine factory setup? Because radiator and condenser in my Accord are not side by side.

[zainiqbal1990]

@xulfiqar

If you remember my high beam fuses were melting. A so-called electrician once broke the right side stick of the assembly i don't know how and later opened the assembly and glued the stick. Maybe that was the reason the high beam fuses were melting because high beam was continuously on. The indicators were working but the stick was stuck on high beam. Will never ever visit that so-called electrician again. Recently got the assembly taken off by my electrician and took it to plaza and got the stick changed by a assembly repair guy. Now it works fine. Earlier before the repair both high beam fuses used to melt. But after this repair i found out only one melted. The culprit i guess was the left side high beam holder for H1 bulb. There were 2 types of holders going in this left side H1 bulb. One which is directly connected to the bulb a round plastic thing and one which goes from behind which is also used to power H4 bulbs directly. Removed both and got the H1 bulb soldered and then connected the wires. I hope this the remaining high beam fuse won't melt this time.