Ask Xulfiqar - An Automotive Encyclopedia

[farazuuu]

check engine tune up and also make sure you dont have a 7 or 10 blade fixed fan on the engine, it will be very loud. Try finding a clutched fan and its shroud. Also make sure the engine has a thermostat valve, tuning it dead cold is useless.

Bro recommend me some good mechanic for this
Thanx alot

[umarkhan1]

@xulfiqar
which radiator is better?
copper core with plastic tanks or brass tanks???

[afnan.bashir]

do the relay module input test and see if it fails somewhere. Communication loss from modules is not a simple absolute problem, it can be intermittent too.

Update is I tested it. Wiring is fine. micu still flashes code 11 in dome light but not on cluster. I suspect I have to change under dash fuse box because it does not show driving door opening. Also code 11 says relay control module lost cI'm with micu not micu lost communication with relay module.

Also no chimes are heard from cluster in regards to seat belt Or key insertion or when at ignition. What do you say

[haris_taurus90]

@xulfiqar
I am a keen observer of your posts and they surely are extremely helpful. I am currently facing Knocking Problem with Santro 06.

Knocking is present in almost all gears apart for 1st Gear. It feels like car is not accelerating as it should be. It starts knocking on higher RPMs. The things I thought might be culprit are Timings (Got Timing seal changed from a Road side mechanic), Ignition Coils (the only method i tested them was with multimeter, checking there resistance as per manual. Seemed ok.)
I normally keep up with every scheduled maintenance. My daily travel is almost 90Kms.

one more thing is that, i think my car have a defective thermostate valve, as temp drops slightly back from 2 dots on Temperature guage on constant highway driving.
The car even knocks at 80kmph and on trying to accelerate. Mechanic is suggesting me to replace clutch (No clutch slipping I am experiencing) as it have run almost 90k on it. But that would not solve the knocking problem i am sure about that.

[aqgmbest]

@xulfiqar
Sir i have recently bought platz 2002 AT when put it in D mode and press the brake a sound likh grrhh grhhh is that normal i had vitz in 2009 and i feel the same sound was in that car in same position i just want to confirm is that a regular sound or some thing is wrong ?

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[wasim625]

@xulfiqar
I am a keen observer of your posts and they surely are extremely helpful. I am currently facing Knocking Problem with Santro 06.

Knocking is present in almost all gears apart for 1st Gear. It feels like car is not accelerating as it should be. It starts knocking on higher RPMs. The things I thought might be culprit are Timings (Got Timing seal changed from a Road side mechanic), Ignition Coils (the only method i tested them was with multimeter, checking there resistance as per manual. Seemed ok.)
I normally keep up with every scheduled maintenance. My daily travel is almost 90Kms.

one more thing is that, i think my car have a defective thermostate valve, as temp drops slightly back from 2 dots on Temperature guage on constant highway driving.
The car even knocks at 80kmph and on trying to accelerate. Mechanic is suggesting me to replace clutch (No clutch slipping I am experiencing) as it have run almost 90k on it. But that would not solve the knocking problem i am sure about that.

Umm - you have manual for your santro?
Plus do you suspect carbon deposits in your combustion chamber? That can too lead to knocking.

[haris_taurus90]

Umm - you have manual for your santro?
Plus do you suspect carbon deposits in your combustion chamber? That can too lead to knocking.

Yes I have workshop manual of it. I have no idea if there is any facility here which can perform Decarb here. Somehow I now have mixed feelings about either Timing issues i.e. Incorrect TDC when mechanic put the pulley and belt on, or it could be the company fitted Advancer/Emulator. But then again, both wild guess. So here i am, asking for Zulfiqar bhai's insight.

[Xulfiqar]

if your belt was off time, you would have a non start condition, the ECU only recognizes TDC when both crank and cam sensors align together

[aqgmbest]

@xulfiqar
Sir i have recently bought platz 2002 AT when put it in D mode and press the brake a sound likh grrhh grhhh is that normal i had vitz in 2009 and i feel the same sound was in that car in same position i just want to confirm is that a regular sound or some thing is wrong ?

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@xulfiqar please shed some light

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[haris_taurus90]

if your belt was off time, you would have a non start condition, the ECU only recognizes TDC when both crank and cam sensors align together

Ok, so that TDC misalignment is ruled out, what else could be the cause? as even on normal pedal press, there is that metallic engine knock. On idle, engine is fine. But under slight load or acceleration, it starts knocking.
Could it be the problem with Crank Sensor aswell?

[wasim625]

Yes I have workshop manual of it. I have no idea if there is any facility here which can perform Decarb here. Somehow I now have mixed feelings about either Timing issues i.e. Incorrect TDC when mechanic put the pulley and belt on, or it could be the company fitted Advancer/Emulator. But then again, both wild guess. So here i am, asking for Zulfiqar bhai's insight.

We have same ride. Can you please share its workshop manual??

[afnan.bashir]

@xulfiqar please shed some light

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Sounds like brake is not properly pressed. Btw what is the idle rpm wheN your car is in d and brakes are on?

[afnan.bashir]

@xulfiqar in addition to above question as wiring has Been verified to be fine for door switch and relay control module who is responsible for turning on the courtesy light when door opens Micu?

[lotus]

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[aqgmbest]

Sounds like brake is not properly pressed. Btw what is the idle rpm wheN your car is in d and brakes are on?

Sir my platz dont have rpm meter! And Brake is properly pressed

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[afnan.bashir]

Sir my platz dont have rpm meter! And Brake is properly pressed

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Could you point that noise to someplace i mean from engine etc. If its not from brakes then ask someone to press the brake and then shift to drive. You monitor the noise from engine bay. Generally any sort of noise from gear is not a good think in my opinion

[afnan.bashir]

Ok, so that TDC misalignment is ruled out, what else could be the cause? as even on normal pedal press, there is that metallic engine knock. On idle, engine is fine. But under slight load or acceleration, it starts knocking.
Could it be the problem with Crank Sensor aswell?

tried changing the petrol?

[afnan.bashir]

@Xulfiqar i have city 99 . when i unplug the iacv rpm goes to 1500 even i full tighten the idle screw . i need to adjust rpm.
guide me plz

Check for VAC leak. I once before tried to help you out. Check for vac leak and if you find none make sure your butterfly closes all the way and its plates are not worn. Also make sure your throttle adjustment screw was not messed up by someone to raise the rpm. I believe you have two holes in your throttle body. One is for fast idle and other is for IACV. When the car is warm the the fast idle should not suck any air. Close it with finger and see if idle gets normal.

[Shoaibm]

@Xulfiqar in addition to above question as wiring has Been verified to be fine for door switch and relay control module who is responsible for turning on the courtesy light when door opens Micu?

The door courtesy light is controlled by MICU. The bulb has constant +ve and the -ve signal is provided by MICU. If you are getting Positive 12v signal on one terminal then the problem is with -ve signal.

[afnan.bashir]

@xulfiqar @shoaibm
So the list of problems and tests done so far

1. Driver side courtesy light does not comes on
2. Cluster does not know when driver door is opened all three are acknowledged
3. Cluster does not beeps when key is inserted or at Ignition

Tests
1. From switch to MICU door switch has been verified and its fine
2. Relay control module connection to MICU is verified and is fine

Question is
What needs to be replaced or fixed?