Ask Xulfiqar - An Automotive Encyclopedia

[ab6666]

like mentioned - changing out every year is recommended. Change does not mean, just bleeding a few tablespoons of liquid out. You need to flush out about 200 ml per wheel at least. I go through with a litre of brake fluid on any car.

Thanx sir!

[OwaisYunus1]

the harmonic balancer wont vibrate that much to cause vibration into the body shell, you should test the engine mounts, when the engine starts to vibrate like you describe, raise the engine with a jack and then notice if it stops.

I've tried putting a jack underneath the engine and lifting it with slight increments and there's no difference at all. After this, I'm quite convinced that it has something to do with the drive belt side of the engine because the vibration has previously changed behaviour by changing the belt. Where do I go from here?

[zak82]

I asked this question a long time ago but I didn't get a convincing response from anybody who replied. Let me phrase the query for you

An automatic car, once stopped over hill on a steep road, does not move ahead even when the pedal is floored. But, it does drive normal once its in momentum or already in motion.
What could be the issue?

[saboor73]

i asked this question a long time ago but i didn't get a convincing response from anybody who replied. Let me phrase the query for you

an automatic car, once stopped over hill on a steep road, does not move ahead even when the pedal is floored. But, it does drive normal once its in momentum or already in motion.
What could be the issue?

cvt ???

[zak82]

Nope, DOHC, tiptronic , 4 gear fwd

[Equinox1]

make a small kit with a jar/bottle and a thin clear flexible pipe, the pipe should go all the way down to the bottom of the bottle/jar - connect the jar to the brake bleed nipple, unscrew it half a turn and place the jar above the level of bleeder but below level of brake master cylinder in engine room.

fill brake fluid container in engine room to the top and now get into the car and slowly press the pedal only half way (do not stroke it to the floor) - pump it 7 or 8 times and refill the brake fluid in the engine room, check the setup you installed on wheel for clean brake fluid in the pipe from the bleed nipple. Repeat this for all wheels - never let the brake fluid container in engine room get empty.

The first wheel you bleed will take the longest as it will be flushing out the brake fluid container itself.

If your brake lining separated from the shoe backer plate then it probably was either a really bad quality brake shoe or your brakes were dragging (too tight) Wash the whole brake with soap and water before servicing it, if your new brake shoes have no coating for rust protection then you need to spray primer on them, Clean the whole system and make sure the auto adjuster is not jammed or siezed, free it up and lubricate the 6 points on the support plate on the brake where the shoe slides against.

@xulfiqar thanks for the correct procedure.
can you clarify some more things.

1- Which wheel should be done first and the order in which to bleed (assuming we have a RHD vehicle).
2- Should the car be started when doing this? As the brake booster/braking system works when the engine is running.
3- Is it not better to have an inch of brake oil in the jar and the pipe submerged in it?
4- Lastly I've read that the correct procedure is to have a helper and have him first press the brake halfway and then the person should then loosen the bleed screw a little and tighten it back once there is no more fluid bleeding. After this the helper releases the brake and the whole process is repeated. (Your method as I interpret seems a little different, can we follow either of the technique?)

I have a Cultus 2012 clocked around 46k and look forward to do the DIY as the brake is not up to mark.

Regards

[Equinox1]

Duplicate

[aamirahsan89]

I asked this question a long time ago but I didn't get a convincing response from anybody who replied. Let me phrase the query for you

An automatic car, once stopped over hill on a steep road, does not move ahead even when the pedal is floored. But, it does drive normal once its in momentum or already in motion.
What could be the issue?

When its floored, is there any difference in The engine rpm or no response at all?

[zak82]

No response on rpm
It just stands still, with engine revving at constant speed. Pedal is full down

[aamirahsan89]

No response on rpm
It just stands still, with engine revving at constant speed. Pedal is full down

Does this vehicle have traction control?

[zak82]

Nope, it doesn't

[aamirahsan89]

Nope, it doesn't

What vehicle is this

[afnan.bashir]

Nope, it doesn't

If you floor the throttle and RPM does not change...... strange but car should bogg badly if its pushing hard,
If car is not moving and your rpm is steady this could mean engine has low compression.
if you have RPM raises on throttle flooring and car does not move your tranny is toast i guess.

[afnan.bashir]

@xulfiqar I was inspecting air cleaner housing and. I noticed that there was a mount here and it was broken. i never felt jerk or vibrations.
1. Just for education why was this mount necessary? i removed to get it from market but there is no difference
2. There was plug next to breathing pipe which had written ATF. Why would honda put it at such non obvious spot.
3. Breathing hole was covered in dirt. and clogged. What is down side of it? although i cleaned it.

[waqas18]

Was Vti offered in 1.5l civic 1998 having d15z5 engine?

[waqas18]

It shows vtec on head but engine is 1496cc..

[afnan.bashir]

It shows vtec on head but engine is 1496cc..

It can be vtec if you want to be sure about that check there should be solenoid behind the valve cover

[waqas18]

It can be vtec if you want to be sure about that check there should be solenoid behind the valve cover

Can u show me where it has located?

[saboor73]

Can u show me where it has located?

The red circle near valve cover and distributor is vtech solenoid
[IMG]http://forums.trinituner.com/upload/data/8c/DSCN1301%20Small%20s.JPG[/img]

[waqas18]

It can be vtec if you want to be sure about that check there should be solenoid behind the valve cover

What about d15z5? Was it offered in any pkdm Civic 1996-2000?