Ask Xulfiqar - An Automotive Encyclopedia

[Xulfiqar]

okay then,i will do it :), i just saw a couple of rebuild projects on google, i just wonder why electrician hazraat insist on replacing it

today my brother showed the car to some desi mechanic, he confirmed that it was bad and then insisted on replacing it with the alternator from carry dabba, his logic was that your wiring is old and needs a bigger gen.

replace mechanic - that one has lost his mind. Rebuild your alternator to correct specification and enjoy long life out of it again, download an alternator service manual and test correctly. You can try looking for an old unit that you can buy cheaply and build it in your spare time - so you are ready to swap when required.

[Xulfiqar]

And what are the signs of a bad differential??

worn out mechanical gear noise, excessive backlash/windup, usually a deep humming noise too dependant on speed. Was its oil ever changed?

[a_n_memon88]

It happened in june when the mercury here rose to 46 degrees. I was on a trip to northern areas and used motorway. The cars temperature was from 111-115 degrees at the speed of 90 degrees without AC and on salt range slope it touched 119 and I stopped the car but did not shut down the engine. Crossed salt range went till abbotabad without the temperature touching 119 again but it remained around 115 degrees.

Next started journey from abbotabad and after about 150 kms on a 6000ft above sea level slope the temperature again touched 119 2 times while remaining in the range of 113-115 throughout the ascend. As soon as the ascend was over traveled 90 more kms without a problem. Next day went to malamjabba and again at a point around 6000ft above sea level the temperature reached 117 and I again stopped the car but went further till 8000 ft above sea level and the temperature did not rise above 113 degrees.

2 days after that while returning to lahore it was a 600kms + journey and on motorway the temperature remained around 115 degrees at speed of 80-85 km/h. The motorway was around 150+ kms from where I started my return journey. Anyways kept on moving and moved further 150kms till a rest area and there stopped the car for an hour and the temperature moved down to 80 degrees. I resumed my journey and the temperature again started moving in the range of 113-115 degrees at speed of 90 degrees without AC. WIth AC on it would exceed and with speed increase also it would increase. Anyways moved another 70+kms and the slopes of salt range came here the temperature again touched 119 degrees. I opened the raidator cap with proper technique and poured water in the radiator the temperaure dropped to 90 degrees. I resumed the journey and covered 2-3 more slopes with temperature touching 113 degrees at max. After covering salt range again the temperature remained in the region of 115 degrees at the speed of 90km/hr at next service area i.e around 50 kms from when I opened the raidator cap I again stopped and again opened the radiator cap and poured water in the radiator while the engine was started. After this it was around 190 kms to lahore and continued at the speed of 90-100km/h with temperature not crossing 115 degrees.

This all happened between 11-16 june and temperature throughout these days remained 46 degrees and above in plains and around 35-40 degrees on mountains. Another thing I would like to mention is that I poured in caltex coolant in 50/50 ratio diluted with distilled water in the radiator on 1 june. During all those 10+ days drive in city the temperature never crossed 109 degrees mark. Since that day i.e 16 june I have refilled the water only once in radiator and that was on the next day and it has been over a month since than and I have been driving the car daily to office and that is 20 kms round trip and the water has not reduced a drop or I would say I have driven 400kms+. Another thing is that my car had a radiator cap with a pressure rating of 0.9 bars. Now I have changed it with a genuine honda cap rated 1.1 bars.

During eid holidays I again want to travel to north now I want to ask is that can I travel safely considering it was heat of the season that caused the problem or diagnose something else. During that last journey I mostly drove at noon time when the temperature is at its peak.

What I have diagnosed as the causes are

1. Coolant/water ratio too concentrated for such hot weather, it should have been around 25/75 for such heat as coolant is not a good transferer of heat
2. Radiator cap opening relief valve at too low a pressure so that not enough coolant in the radiator creating air bubbles and premature heatup
3. Water pump faulty but I doubt it as if it was faulty it would have troubled me now.

Waiting for you expert opinion. These days the mercury is around 35 degrees at day and the temperature does not exceed 97-98 degrees with ac on and a drive of 10+ kms

[Kiki091]

worn out mechanical gear noise, excessive backlash/windup, usually a deep humming noise too dependant on speed. Was its oil ever changed?

Yes @xulfiqar bhai, I changed all the lubricants when I bought the car. The humming is deep it starts at around 30kmh and is max at around 100-120, aftr that it kind of lessen, or may be my observation is faulty due to high road noise at higher speeds..

[Xulfiqar]

Yes @Xulfiqar bhai, I changed all the lubricants when I bought the car. The humming is deep it starts at around 30kmh and is max at around 100-120, aftr that it kind of lessen, or may be my observation is faulty due to high road noise at higher speeds..

are your tires in good shape? does the diffy have a lot of slop? did you check the driveshaft carrier bearing?

[doc.tarzan]

AA xulfiqar hope you are fine. Just bought this car
https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/members-member-rides/238771-my-w124
Don't know much about its basic maintenance, a few pointers from your side or at least a link where I can get the basic info. Thanks

[Xulfiqar]

AA xulfiqar hope you are fine. Just bought this car
https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/members-member-rides/238771-my-w124
Don't know much about its basic maintenance, a few pointers from your side or at least a link where I can get the basic info. Thanks

its a nice car, 300E - not SEL.

its pretty easy to check this car, I would start with checking the undercarriage - specially the front ball joints because your car looks slanted to one side, you DO NOT want the lower ball joint failing as it has the potential to totally write off the car given the right circumstances.

The rear suspension arm links would be completely shot - thats for sure, along with the subframe and differential mounts and bushings. Once all are replaced and correctly tightened - you will be amazed at how this car can drive, It has a drive like no other machine that you will ever drive (except the W140 benz - they are hands down the last incarnation of true luxury car driving)

The engine is a 103 not 102. It faces head gasket failure every 7 or 8 years becuase of the dissimilar materials of the block and head - but is an extremely tough built engine, given the right oil and fuel the engine may survive you for the next couple of centuries.

How is the transmission shifting? smooth and firm shifts at the proper time? This transmission is very finicky about its ATF level and corecting the level is a true PITA if you dont read the fine print in the service manual (the automatic transmission service manual was never translated to english - hence the correct data for the various incarnations of the 722.3 gearbox are assembled as - pay attention to how it was assembled before) - the ATF level measurement from dead cold is not the cold mark on the dipstick - its 7mm below the cold (30) mark

If you do need any data google can help.

the transmission sump gasket is also a quirky setup but not that hard, just requires a fine low reading torque ratchet to tighten - overtightening causes leaking and so does undertightening.

anyway - enjoy the car and do the repairs correctly - do not just let your mechanic rip it

[doc.tarzan]

its a nice car, 300E - not SEL.

its pretty easy to check this car, I would start with checking the undercarriage - specially the front ball joints because your car looks slanted to one side, you DO NOT want the lower ball joint failing as it has the potential to totally write off the car given the right circumstances.

The rear suspension arm links would be completely shot - thats for sure, along with the subframe and differential mounts and bushings. Once all are replaced and correctly tightened - you will be amazed at how this car can drive, It has a drive like no other machine that you will ever drive (except the W140 benz - they are hands down the last incarnation of true luxury car driving)

The engine is a 103 not 102. It faces head gasket failure every 7 or 8 years becuase of the dissimilar materials of the block and head - but is an extremely tough built engine, given the right oil and fuel the engine may survive you for the next couple of centuries.

How is the transmission shifting? smooth and firm shifts at the proper time? This transmission is very finicky about its ATF level and corecting the level is a true PITA if you dont read the fine print in the service manual (the automatic transmission service manual was never translated to english - hence the correct data for the various incarnations of the 722.3 gearbox are assembled as - pay attention to how it was assembled before) - the ATF level measurement from dead cold is not the cold mark on the dipstick - its 7mm below the cold (30) mark

If you do need any data google can help.

the transmission sump gasket is also a quirky setup but not that hard, just requires a fine low reading torque ratchet to tighten - overtightening causes leaking and so does undertightening.

anyway - enjoy the car and do the repairs correctly - do not just let your mechanic rip it

Thanks really appreciated, actually the suspension was recently redone, it drives extremely quiet and smooth plus the AC is cold as a freezer . The gear shifts are fine but I really worry about it, as previously a bought a 124 its transmission failed after a couple of days and a 190 that I was having a test drive in its transmission was whining and after a few kick downs it failed on me both were 230 probably 111 engines....

[capsat]

@capsat bhai any suggestions from your side about it.??

mate am just an amature chohta My timings are way different to log-in to learn & read, so I read the threads and follow Zulfiqar and saving for later reading, in between carefully I throw some spanners in moving gears to learn more & try to help at the same time. - This is zufliqar thread

[yasirchattha]

@xulfiqar , plz have a look ... https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/electrical-wiring-battery-lights/238775-acdelco-battery-date-code

[Majidkhan567]

i have toyota vitz 2003 my car vibrate. wobbling after cross 60 km/h,
i have changed my tire,done alignment but problem not resolve mechanic saying axle fault but axle not producing any sound in turning
help me bro

@Xulfiqar
bro you didn,t tell my issue

[Xulfiqar]

Thanks really appreciated, actually the suspension was recently redone, it drives extremely quiet and smooth plus the AC is cold as a freezer . The gear shifts are fine but I really worry about it, as previously a bought a 124 its transmission failed after a couple of days and a 190 that I was having a test drive in its transmission was whining and after a few kick downs it failed on me both were 230 probably 111 engines....

the transmissions are pretty good and can be serviced, tested and repaired by someone who has done mercedes transmission work, Speaking about suspension work - do you have a list of what was done in said suspension work. The rear suspension on this car is quite an involved job - 10 arms, 4 heavy bushings, and 3 diff bushings - then the whole tightening sequence - which actually makes a good difference.

[doc.tarzan]

the transmissions are pretty good and can be serviced, tested and repaired by someone who has done mercedes transmission work, Speaking about suspension work - do you have a list of what was done in said suspension work. The rear suspension on this car is quite an involved job - 10 arms, 4 heavy bushings, and 3 diff bushings - then the whole tightening sequence - which actually makes a good difference.

Thanks once again. Actually I am a merc novice as you can guess.I will ask the previous owner about the work done, he wanted to give me all the workshop bills of the previous three years but in my excitement i forgot them.Will ask him to keep them safe and take it from him.After eid i plan to visit a (so called??) Merc specialist well do a thorough check up then plus planning on doing some reading myself (highly doubtful).

[a_n_memon88]

It happened in june when the mercury here rose to 46 degrees. I was on a trip to northern areas and used motorway. The cars temperature was from 111-115 degrees at the speed of 90 degrees without AC and on salt range slope it touched 119 and I stopped the car but did not shut down the engine. Crossed salt range went till abbotabad without the temperature touching 119 again but it remained around 115 degrees.

Next started journey from abbotabad and after about 150 kms on a 6000ft above sea level slope the temperature again touched 119 2 times while remaining in the range of 113-115 throughout the ascend. As soon as the ascend was over traveled 90 more kms without a problem. Next day went to malamjabba and again at a point around 6000ft above sea level the temperature reached 117 and I again stopped the car but went further till 8000 ft above sea level and the temperature did not rise above 113 degrees.

2 days after that while returning to lahore it was a 600kms + journey and on motorway the temperature remained around 115 degrees at speed of 80-85 km/h. The motorway was around 150+ kms from where I started my return journey. Anyways kept on moving and moved further 150kms till a rest area and there stopped the car for an hour and the temperature moved down to 80 degrees. I resumed my journey and the temperature again started moving in the range of 113-115 degrees at speed of 90 degrees without AC. WIth AC on it would exceed and with speed increase also it would increase. Anyways moved another 70+kms and the slopes of salt range came here the temperature again touched 119 degrees. I opened the raidator cap with proper technique and poured water in the radiator the temperaure dropped to 90 degrees. I resumed the journey and covered 2-3 more slopes with temperature touching 113 degrees at max. After covering salt range again the temperature remained in the region of 115 degrees at the speed of 90km/hr at next service area i.e around 50 kms from when I opened the raidator cap I again stopped and again opened the radiator cap and poured water in the radiator while the engine was started. After this it was around 190 kms to lahore and continued at the speed of 90-100km/h with temperature not crossing 115 degrees.

This all happened between 11-16 june and temperature throughout these days remained 46 degrees and above in plains and around 35-40 degrees on mountains. Another thing I would like to mention is that I poured in caltex coolant in 50/50 ratio diluted with distilled water in the radiator on 1 june. During all those 10+ days drive in city the temperature never crossed 109 degrees mark. Since that day i.e 16 june I have refilled the water only once in radiator and that was on the next day and it has been over a month since than and I have been driving the car daily to office and that is 20 kms round trip and the water has not reduced a drop or I would say I have driven 400kms+. Another thing is that my car had a radiator cap with a pressure rating of 0.9 bars. Now I have changed it with a genuine honda cap rated 1.1 bars.

During eid holidays I again want to travel to north now I want to ask is that can I travel safely considering it was heat of the season that caused the problem or diagnose something else. During that last journey I mostly drove at noon time when the temperature is at its peak.

What I have diagnosed as the causes are
[LIST=1]
[*]Coolant/water ratio too concentrated for such hot weather, it should have been around 25/75 for such heat as coolant is not a good transferer of heat
[*]Radiator cap opening relief valve at too low a pressure so that not enough coolant in the radiator creating air bubbles and premature heatup
[*]Water pump faulty but I doubt it as if it was faulty it would have troubled me now.
[/LIST]

Waiting for you expert opinion. These days the mercury is around 35 degrees at day and the temperature does not exceed 97-98 degrees with ac on and a drive of 10+ kms

@xulfiqar

Sent from my GFIVE President(G9) using PW Forums mobile app

[nfsmostwanted]

@xulfiqar
Assalam o Alaikum

Respected sir, i want to ask you about a problem occuring in Civic 96(auto) of my cousin , i'm planning to buy that car . but when i drove the car(put it on D) i observed jerks(vibration) at the speed of 40-60 kmh . which went away as the speed crossed 60km mark . the car is on petrol and engine is water throwing

what could possibly be the problem of this vibration?

the vibration does not come when i drive car in D2

If its the transmission then what could be the solution? if i plan to change the transmission, in how much can i get the new transmission for the car?

your input will be highly appretiated
will be looking forward for your reply
thanks in anticipation

[Xulfiqar]

@Xulfiqar

Sent from my GFIVE President(G9) using PW Forums mobile app

you are right - get a 70% water ratio coolant in there and replace the thermostat valve.

[umarkhan1]

@xulfiqar bhai,
How to adjust valve clearance on a 4 cyl engine???
here in pakistan,mechanics adjust them by rotating the wheel and looking on the cam shaft.is this method right??

[a_n_memon88]

you are right - get a 70% water ratio coolant in there and replace the thermostat valve.

Will do that. BTW thermostat is already in place are you asking me to change it with a new one?
Another thing that is pinching me is that will my hose pipes burst? The car was made to use a 1.1 bar cap and came out of the factory with that which was somehow replaced with an aftermarket 0.9 bar cap. Now I have again used a 1.1 bar cap. The pipes apparently look fine and they are soft and flexible when touched they dont feel like hard rotten rubber.

[Xulfiqar]

@Xulfiqar bhai,
How to adjust valve clearance on a 4 cyl engine???
here in pakistan,mechanics adjust them by rotating the wheel and looking on the cam shaft.is this method right??

nearly all engines have at least 1 TDC mark - that is TDC cyl 1, now make 4 equal marks on the pulley to identify the rest of the 3 cyls - that would be in 90 degree intervals. Do not eyeball the camshaft as you can get wrong reading if you adjust while the cam is starting on ramp.

[Xulfiqar]

Will do that. BTW thermostat is already in place are you asking me to change it with a new one?
Another thing that is pinching me is that will my hose pipes burst? The car was made to use a 1.1 bar cap and came out of the factory with that which was somehow replaced with an aftermarket 0.9 bar cap. Now I have again used a 1.1 bar cap. The pipes apparently look fine and they are soft and flexible when touched they dont feel like hard rotten rubber.

yes - replace the valve, it maybe sticking and using the 0.9 bar cap will make the system overheat as it does not raise the pressure enough.