Ask Xulfiqar - An Automotive Encyclopedia

[nfsmostwanted]

waitinggggg for replyyyy

[Xulfiqar]

waitinggggg for replyyyy

I think I replied you in the other thread.

[Naweed]

@Xulfiqar
I need your expert advice in a problem not being identified

a friend has a santro .. which works fine on CNG .. on petrol it suddenly starts behaving erratically on idle .. even slow idle gets disturbed .. if u reset it (by removing battery leads) becomes fine but all of a sudden the same issue re-appears at times in hrs at times after 2-3 days ... hyundai motors was contacted after diagnostics they changed tp sensor but to no good then another sensor was changed .. still nothing .. then they advised complet e throttle body change by then my friend backed away .. i tried setting it ( a long time back .. i have thread as well on it linked bellow) ... it worked fine for 2 weeks but then the same problems .. i didn't do much with cng but the cleaning of throttle body (though i now know it was un-nec) and setting / checking of sensors .... could it be a cng kit compatibility issue ... please advice where to start ... thanks

https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/engine-transmission-powertrain/215753-santro-eratic-idling-urgent-help-required

[offroad9211]

hi every one im going to buy a surf which is body chnaged in japan as the owner told me plz some one tell me wot r the drawbacks of body changed surf in resale or in suspenstion and handling plz plz sme onetell me

[nfsmostwanted]

Self edit

[NaXuN]

Recently my Ac stopped working as the compressor was taking too much load nd started making loud noises so i had to replace it - however the problem is that when i went for replacement, mechanic opened up the system and told me that there's too much oil and it has leaked into the system - it passed through pipes to evaporator and condenser as well so i need to change those as well otherwise, they is no benefit of just changing the compressor.
well i did get the things changed as he opened up everything and i didnt have another option at that time
i just want to ask you if he was right or wrong so i can avoid visiting him next time or be his regular customer?

[Xulfiqar]

@Xulfiqar
I need your expert advice in a problem not being identified

a friend has a santro .. which works fine on CNG .. on petrol it suddenly starts behaving erratically on idle .. even slow idle gets disturbed .. if u reset it (by removing battery leads) becomes fine but all of a sudden the same issue re-appears at times in hrs at times after 2-3 days ... hyundai motors was contacted after diagnostics they changed tp sensor but to no good then another sensor was changed .. still nothing .. then they advised complet e throttle body change by then my friend backed away .. i tried setting it ( a long time back .. i have thread as well on it linked bellow) ... it worked fine for 2 weeks but then the same problems .. i didn't do much with cng but the cleaning of throttle body (though i now know it was un-nec) and setting / checking of sensors .... could it be a cng kit compatibility issue ... please advice where to start ... thanks

https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/engine-transmission-powertrain/215753-santro-eratic-idling-urgent-help-required

start by checking for leaks into the intake manifold, like a bad PCV valve etc, the Throttle position sensor can be a culprit but will show up as CEL on in mitsubishi system.

I have seen one case of a mitsubishi lancer in which its ECU was bad and caused the engine to stall out for no good reason.

[Xulfiqar]

Recently my Ac stopped working as the compressor was taking too much load nd started making loud noises so i had to replace it - however the problem is that when i went for replacement, mechanic opened up the system and told me that there's too much oil and it has leaked into the system - it passed through pipes to evaporator and condenser as well so i need to change those as well otherwise, they is no benefit of just changing the compressor.
well i did get the things changed as he opened up everything and i didnt have another option at that time
i just want to ask you if he was right or wrong so i can avoid visiting him next time or be his regular customer?

If your compressor shot particles into the system then surely the drier, TXV and condenser are loaded with that junk, in older style A/C one could load up acetone and shoot it out to clean the condenser and evaporator as they were serpentine type, but the new parallel flow type cannot be cleaned out and hence require replacement.

[syncview]

@xulfiqar

sir, why is it that cars with machined head face are more prone to overheating? or what made this the general belief?

[margallar]

@xulfiqar, most mechanics here argur that the factory settings for tappets are not good when the engine gets old, I met someone once who had two different settings for winter and summer.

My experience has been good with factory settings, but I want to know if these people are correct or not

[Xulfiqar]

@Xulfiqar, most mechanics here argur that the factory settings for tappets are not good when the engine gets old, I met someone once who had two different settings for winter and summer.

My experience has been good with factory settings, but I want to know if these people are correct or not

ancient engines - like the Ford model T, British motorcyles, ancient Jeeps etc had such settings because their designs were pretty poor - and engine life was less than 40,000 miles usually - also consider they had rough metallurgy practices and sidevalve engines with huge pumping losses.

Engines of recent (after the 70s) are pretty much evolved and operate at a given temperature range (the magic thing called thermostat valve helps here) - their valve clearances are provided after quite exhaustive research on the engine parameters. Their usual adjustment mileage is 20,000 kms.

so in a word - these people you met are not quite dealing with a full deck of cards. Because if they are dealing with a full deck of cards ask them how would they "loosen" the tappets of a chevy 350 or even a daewoo racer engine or even a suzuki cultus

[NaXuN]

If your compressor shot particles into the system then surely the drier, TXV and condenser are loaded with that junk, in older style A/C one could load up acetone and shoot it out to clean the condenser and evaporator as they were serpentine type, but the new parallel flow type cannot be cleaned out and hence require replacement.

oh ok thanks

[margallar]

ancient engines - like the Ford model T, British motorcyles, ancient Jeeps etc had such settings because their designs were pretty poor - and engine life was less than 40,000 miles usually - also consider they had rough metallurgy practices and sidevalve engines with huge pumping losses.

Engines of recent (after the 70s) are pretty much evolved and operate at a given temperature range (the magic thing called thermostat valve helps here) - their valve clearances are provided after quite exhaustive research on the engine parameters. Their usual adjustment mileage is 20,000 kms.

so in a word - these people you met are not quite dealing with a full deck of cards. Because if they are dealing with a full deck of cards ask them how would they "loosen" the tappets of a chevy 350 or even a daewoo racer engine or even a suzuki cultus

i guess people here don't know much themselves, i wouldn't say anything like it if i was not sure.

[u4usman4u]

@xulfiqar
I need suggestion for the following obd2 chip:

Race Chip Galaxy

For Santro Club GV 2005 running almost 160k kms.

[ehalin]

@xulfiqar

How can I adjust hand brake on a late model Toyota hilux vigo?

Thanks,

[margallar]

[doc.tarzan]

its a nice car, 300E - not SEL.

its pretty easy to check this car, I would start with checking the undercarriage - specially the front ball joints because your car looks slanted to one side, you DO NOT want the lower ball joint failing as it has the potential to totally write off the car given the right circumstances.

The rear suspension arm links would be completely shot - thats for sure, along with the subframe and differential mounts and bushings. Once all are replaced and correctly tightened - you will be amazed at how this car can drive, It has a drive like no other machine that you will ever drive (except the W140 benz - they are hands down the last incarnation of true luxury car driving)

The engine is a 103 not 102. It faces head gasket failure every 7 or 8 years becuase of the dissimilar materials of the block and head - but is an extremely tough built engine, given the right oil and fuel the engine may survive you for the next couple of centuries.

How is the transmission shifting? smooth and firm shifts at the proper time? This transmission is very finicky about its ATF level and corecting the level is a true PITA if you dont read the fine print in the service manual (the automatic transmission service manual was never translated to english - hence the correct data for the various incarnations of the 722.3 gearbox are assembled as - pay attention to how it was assembled before) - the ATF level measurement from dead cold is not the cold mark on the dipstick - its 7mm below the cold (30) mark

If you do need any data google can help.

the transmission sump gasket is also a quirky setup but not that hard, just requires a fine low reading torque ratchet to tighten - overtightening causes leaking and so does undertightening.

anyway - enjoy the car and do the repairs correctly - do not just let your mechanic rip it

Got the car checked today, it was a bit slanted to one side because it was missing a spacer, now levelled.I plan to remove all the spacers after eid. Today(45c) on idle with ac on the temperature was touching 100, in motion it would come down to slightly above 80 . I think it's alright.I can see a very thin shimmer of oil in the water reservoir and the coolent was very rusty colored, let's hope it's not what I am thinking.engine is not making any smoke nor sluggish rather pulling very strong.

[Xulfiqar]

the temperature on this engine would touch 100C for in very hot weather with A/C running but the fan clutch should be locked and the engine fan should sound like a truck (very very loud). The condenser fans should be running too.

The oil in coolant is bad mojo - your headgasket is starting to give up. you will need a headgasket job soon. If you let oil circulate in the cooling system it will eat the rubber pipes inside out.

Do a drain and cleanup of the cooling system with something like a surfactant that does not make foam/suds/jhaag and refill with MB coolant of equivalent BASF Glysantin G-05

[capsat]

i guess people here don't know much themselves, i wouldn't say anything like it if i was not sure.

ancient engines - like the Ford model T, British motorcyles, ancient Jeeps etc had such settings because their designs were pretty poor - and engine life was less than 40,000 miles usually - also consider they had rough metallurgy practices and sidevalve engines with huge pumping losses.

Engines of recent (after the 70s) are pretty much evolved and operate at a given temperature range (the magic thing called thermostat valve helps here) - their valve clearances are provided after quite exhaustive research on the engine parameters. Their usual adjustment mileage is 20,000 kms.

so in a word - these people you met are not quite dealing with a full deck of cards. Because if they are dealing with a full deck of cards ask them how would they "loosen" the tappets of a chevy 350 or even a daewoo racer engine or even a suzuki cultus

learning is an ongoing process if one is willing, - i will do an effort now to see the cultus tappet cover removed to know the " DABBO " adjustment

[margallar]

@Xulfiqar, i had an idea, i won't be able to implement it but still want to know if it is plausible.

there is that hitachi carburetor (which i think has its own ecu, generally used in american relatives of the suzuki swift/cultus) , maybe that setup is called throttle body injection, i am not sure

anyways, i was thinking, if we could somehow make an ecu for it and had access to a dyno, maybe we could make maps for different engines

that would enable the conversion of 800-1300 cc carby vehicles to a basic form of fuel injection. with just the need to get a new manifold and the tbi setup.

an efi conversion kit