Ask Xulfiqar - An Automotive Encyclopedia

[SAV123]

Thank you so much @capsat. I will proceed as recommended.

[akash190]

Corolla 2.0D Fanclub/Help Corner

As thread title says those who owns 2.0D or wanna buy or need any help can ask to join whatsapp group, Post your numbers to join.

[aadnanzia]

AOA
Need advise of you guys expertise regarding knocking issue of 1KRFE. Spark plugs all good, air filter good, throttle body cleaned with cleaner many times, no check engine light , the mechanic also checked coil leakage it's also not there, no fault on scanners (generic scanner , launch scanner and icarsoft). Oil is 5W-30 Liquimoly. CVT fluid was also changed and is 30k driven after that. Total Odo running is 90k. High octane doesn't help. 100% hi octane , 70-30 , 50-50. Did all the ratios. Engine is in good shape with very slight vibration issue that that only with high electric load. No blue smoke. No oil consumption issue so far. Fuel efficiency is also fine so didn't fiddle with injectors.
I am living in a hilly area so the knocking is most pronounced while going up the hill and down the hill. Down hill is most annoying because while going up the hill if accelerator is depressed aggressively it is reduced to almost zero (but is still there) but while going down hill that can't be done (doesn't come in coasting only when accelerator is depressed to get a decent speed). Also comes in S transmission mode. Catalytic Converter has also been cleaned and observed carefully to see if it's clogged which it isn't.
Since no DTC so haven't disturbed any sensors. Cleaned O2 sensor during cat service. Also cleaned cam position sensor, which was quite dirty. But no positive effect. Knocking often pronounced to rattling which feels like something will break off now , after accelerator pedal is let go and depressed aggressively then it is reduced.
Too awful driving experience. One thing more the sound starts coming after the engine attains operating temperature. Thermostat valve is working, with coolant. Fan also working fine on auto.

Hoping respected seniors experience must have encountered similar issue and could guide me since , our dear mechanics say that the engine is under powered and only option is to swap it with 1300 cc.

[capsat]

lastly please cross check the ignition coils. knocking vanish at high rpm, is sign of weak ignition at low rpm.
Ask your workshop to swap the Ignition coils with the best one available from scrap as new will cost you substantially high.

[aadnanzia]

Thanks @capsat, will swap a good condition kabli for checking it out.

[alfa_whsky]

Interesting...! lets hope it brings some real change in automotive sector.

[NiGhTShAdE]

To start, few months ago i got Kabli rear shocks installed. Though i went to get new shocks as there is not much price difference in new and kabli, and i personally never had good experience with Kabli parts but mechanic was unfortunately able to cast spell on me and lure me into buying kabli shocks. At bilal gunj new story started. Shopkeeper showed me two type of shocks, the normal ones and the other ones that i bought, bit heavy with bottle on side and shocks really looked something. Firstly i need to know what is the purpose of side bottle and secondly they are very very stiff, is there any way to soften them?

[omermalik.7272]

Dear All,

Now A Days Some Radiator Mech are selling some coolant (green and Pink) by some local company, and tell their customers that its German made and tested, and its best after Caltex one? and Price is 250 or one bottle(500ml). can it be used?

[tintin1]

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[aadnanzia]

I have also come across cheap coolants but they were packaged very properly in 0.5 and 1 Liter plastic bottles. They were of Chinese origin costing Rs 350 per liter. I tested their anti freeze capabilities but didn't test their anti rust capability. But considering the price tag it was a pretty awesome deal. You can buy one and test it out.

[blackzdburn]

@Xulfiqar

Sir i have been your follower since years. You might not recognize me because it's my second account and i have lost password to my previous account so it's not longer accessible. You have helped me by explaining many things related to my previous vehicle which was Accord 86. Not i have recently bought a Civic 2003 EXI. I bought the car and it had CNG setup removed from it. At the dealership i noticed the car's height from front left side is high and from rear left side too low. Check myself and got it checked from a expert and it hadn't been involved in any major accident. The height of right side front and back was pretty decent and in shape. Well i got a used CNG kit installed. After few months of usage i got the CNG setup removed because it was giving me trouble on A/C. Too much lag while accelerating with A/C on in summers. Got spacers from the rear removed. Found out the front springs don't belong to 7th gen Civic so got a pair of original front springs. This did drop the height of the entire car but the left side front and back issue is still there. The right side is now perfect. Exactly how it should be. But still the front left side is high and rear left side is low. Measured the gap of both the front wheels. On the right side gap between tyre and fender is 4 fingers. On the left it's 5. There are no spacers installed in the front. Though i would want to mention one thing. Once i got the car serviced. This was when CNG setup was installed. When the car was lowered after cleaning the undercarriage i parked it and to my surprise from the left the car's height and camber front and back both were as if it's totally stock and back in shape. But upon reaching home it again got messed up. There are broken and damaged bushes here and there but what's happening is totally out of my experience. Many mechanics also failed to diagnose what's causing this issue. The rear left wheel's negative camber and height might get solved by changing bushes but what about the front left side. Also notice the front left wheel despite the height issue is as if it's gone inside.

[tintin1]

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[trouble_maker]

@xulfiqar if one is changing valve seals on a suzuki g series engine which is best replacement part? As you know g series valves seals dont last (seen many efi cultus and balenos smoking on cold starts)

[waqar747]

I went to Jamil Autos and Irshad there tried to identify the issue of the grinding/growling sound while accelerating. He pointed it out to the transmission and said I put in the wrong transmission fluid. I put in Honda ATF DW1 as per the guidance in this forum but he said the car needs hmmf. He also said it should require 3+ liters. I guess he does not know about this since this is a rather uncommon car. From what I've seen in this forum, the car needs Honda ATF DW1 1.3 liters when exchanging the fluid. Which I've already done. However I bought the fluid from a store outside Khan Motors in defence and maybe it was not genuine. So I'll try to find the fluid from a genuine source like Honda 3S and have it replaced again.
Second he checked the engine oil and said it was probably not genuine since it wasn't slick to touch. He compared it to a 5W 40 oil he had. Now I'm no expert but I think 0W 30 Zic fully synthetic driven for 2500 km would be different to touch than the one he had (probably mineral).
A few other small issues pointed out for which he also referred me to Honda 3S because of genuine parts.
Reasonable sounding guy but since he didn't have a solution to the issues at his workshop, I'm a little anxious now having to resort to the Honda 3S services again. Don't know how honest and helpful they'll be for the above issues, and whether they'll have the parts/fluids. Let's see.

[anon71378895]

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[anon71378895]

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[deltree]

In Karachi

[waqar747]

I went to Honda 3S and got the following done:

1. Transmission Fluid changed. Old fluid was drained and measured, it came out to be 1.6 liters. I guess the previous guy from DHA phase 2 market didn't measure properly when putting in. The car was on the lift and tilted slightly nose down, I hope that didn't cause extra fluid to be drained. New ATF DW1 from Honda put in, slightly more than 1.3 liters. Honda people insisted on CVT first, then I showed them it is a DCT transmission. But they still insisted it should take around 3.3 liters. I had to literally convince them that I have done the research and 1.3 is what is needed. About 600 ml now with me in the bottle.
2. Oil changed to Honda 0W 20 SN Fully Synthetic, same that they put in the Civic turbo.
3. Spark plugs checked. They were ok so no change.

After the above, the car initially felt a little unstable with vibrations and some noise, which scared me since I was just driving out of the dealership. But as I drove along, it settled down within a few kms. I drove it further last evening and this morning and I would say there is a perceivable difference in the drive. However, it is not huge and I don't know if there should be a huge difference or not. It is a small hatch anyway and it won't be magic smooth no matter how you fix it. The sound coming while accelerating is still there occasionally (slight rough growl). It is less than before so I am hoping it will go away or reduce further in a while.

Additionally at the moment, it is just peace a of mind that genuine products are filled now. Hopefully the car will run smoother for long, not that it is rough right now.

Work left - Slight Dhuk Dhuk noise coming from left front. Irshad said may be a busted boot, which was throwing grease. Parts difficult to arrange so he asked for time. Will go back to him sometime in the evening today if possible.

[anon36782927]

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[pwuser150965902068]

Bro I need your help