Ask Xulfiqar - An Automotive Encyclopedia

[uzair3337]

I dont think if the car was maintained properly it should reduce oil at such milage.

[Xulfiqar]

There is no correlation of oil burn to oil viscosity unless you have a specific need like modern DI high output boosted engines.

[Xulfiqar]

First suggestion is to check the pcv valve, it usually gets jammed, otoh the valve cover gasket leaking upsets and stops the pcv function too.

The other biggest culprit of oil sludge is cold engine, if your thermostat isnt working, your oil will never clean itself of moisture which then causes sludge buildup too.

[uzair3337]

Sir I will check the PCV.
I have checked the Thermostat it was OEM and working fine in the boiling water pot according to temperature.Replaced its rubber ring(genuine toyota) and put it back in its housing.
Water pump was replaced with Genuine Toyota due to bearing noise.
Car temp Stays between 88-98 C with and without AC at motorway and normal speeds(checked with OBD)
Will cleaning VVTI solenoid Filter improve oil delivery to just the Solenoid or does it supply oil to VVTI Phaser Gear too?
@Xulfiqar

[dayrider]

Then is it that valve seals usually leak when one switches to a lower viscosity oil after a higher viscosity one. Seen many examples of this, one in which we even did a proper comprehensive compression as well as smoke test, switched from 10w40 to 5w30, and oil consumption started like crazy.
In many different engines as well, toyotas, mercedes, big, small....
Nothing else changed, just the viscosity of oil change

[pwuser166331039855]

There was decent amount of sludge in the engine.

But now i am using 5w30(2 oil changew 5k apart).

Sir I bought my first crown with 240K on clock and ex-owner was using havoline 20w-50
I replace the engine oil as Delo Gold Ultra 15w-40 which is SL grade also, and ran it upto 2K km. After that I shift to zic a+ 5w-20 (for once as an experiment) and eventually 5w-30 and kept using 5w-30 till the time I sell it. I believe its clock was nearly 300K but there was not a single drop of oil it leaked.

I will suggest keep using fully synthetic 5w-30 since this is good oil and has good detergents which cleans the oil & its galleries (sludge) well.
After couple of oil changes, you will see the sludge is gone.

In case not, then use Delo gold ultra 15w-40 once and it will clean the engine inside like glass.

[Xulfiqar]

If you have oil pooling in the intake ports due to worn stem seals then using a thicker oil as “abhi chal jaiga” is a really bad idea.

[xzap042]

Turns out I had configured injectors compensation codes in wrong order so feedback values were really off. I have corrected it now and it seems to idle better but the pilot learning is still failing, any idea how to troubleshoot this?
Earlier with wrong codes, it was indicating malfunction at cylinder 4, now it indicates cylinder 1 so I think this itself should not be underlying cause.
Fuel pressure is very low, I removed SCV and cleaned it. I was expecting it would be clogged and cleaning would fix it but it was already clean and had no signs of wear. Resistance values are also in spec.

how to proceed further? and would running it in the meantime without pilot learning present any adverse affects?

2010 1KD hilux @Xulfiqar @syncview

[syncview]

feedback values look ok

What was the error code for cyl1 or cyl4

check injector wiring loom, if all ok.. use the vehicle for a few days, it will learn pilot qty on itself.

[xzap042]

When pilot learning fails, it indicates by number of glow plug flashes which cylinder caused it to fail. There's no other indication or troubleshooting in manual for it.

Currently there's CEL code for pilot learning and it won't clear until it's completed.

Other than that, there's low common rail pressure which I think might be causing it to fail. Fuel tank was checked couple of months back and it was clean, no water or contaminants. Fuel filter changed two weeks back. SCV cleaned last week, no change. Should I replace SCV? I'm not sure if it would fix it

[syncview]

Why do you say that the fuel pressure is low?

[xzap042]

At idle, target pressure is 35 MPa and actual is less than 20 MPa. That's a lot of difference

[pwuser166331039855]

Once you make a video on testing the coolant. Do you have its theory in written which can be followed step by step ?
Because the video you make was rather funny and engine sound was loud and nothing can be understood.
But if you have its theory in written, then plz share here. A friend needs little help.

On youtube some people are doing coolant electrolysis test with cold engine but you did it with engine on and 2K rpms.

[pwuser166331039855]

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/98zzCawzjT8

[harisdahar]

Not related to mechanical, but curious to know the manufacture of those floor mats, and when were they made.

I did try reverse-searching of that logo but no result.

[sohikun]

I can't tell you where these exact floor mats were made just by looking at the picture. Most mats are imported from china, and many are made by haseen group in lahore. Enjoy!

[k180233]

Salam @Xulfiqar bhai, hope you are doing good.

I have a 2001 AT Honda City EXI-S with a swapped D16. I have been facing tapping noise that seems to be originating from the engine head, but can't figure it out if it's knocking or just tappets being noisy.

I got tappets tightened to the recommended spec, but the noise is still there.

Can you please guide me what to check or how to diagnose what the heck is up with it?

One thing though, the noise is insanely loud when the engine is at load i.e. I am inclining over a flyover in some higher gear, and as soon as I put a little pressure on accelerator pedal, so little that it just opens a bit of throttle for more air but not aggressive enough that ECU triggers a downshift, the noise goes insanely loud, and as soon as I lighten the pressure on pedal, the noise go away. And this pressure on the pedal that I am mentioning is very small, not even 100 revs change, but the noise gets louder with pressure along vibrations that I can feel in dashboard, and it's back to normal as soon as pressure is reduced.

What's up? Any direction or guidance will be really helpful.

Thanks!

[Xulfiqar]

What you write sounds like extreme level spark knock, check to see if the engine is correctly wired up and no anomaly is recorded

Also check to see if you are running the correct fuel injectors and the trim pot is correctly set.

[k180233]

Sure, will check the pot, you think it's too lean off a mixture causing it?

Also can it also be due to too advanced distributor/ignition timing?

And wdym by checking if engine is correctly wired up? Wired up with the ECU correctly?

Thanks though.

[Xulfiqar]

I mean that the engine as a whole, its ecu and ancillaries are wired up fully like honda want it, not wired up desi style with mix n match parts and half the wires cut n bypassed