Car heating up, blown gasket?

[Huzaifa_96]

AoA,

I have a 2005 1.6L Mitsubishi Lancer, and it has recently started overheating. I've changed the engine oil, had the radiator serviced, added new coolant, and checked both fans are in working condition.

However, the car still overheats on slower speeds, mostly in traffic jams. I'm beginning to wonder if this is due to a blown head gasket.

(http://www.autorepairkey.com/articles/head-gasket/)

Here's how the car behaves:

• Perfect at high speeds
• Heats up in traffic jams

Symptoms that make me feel like it's a blown gasket:

• The car overheats
• White smoke from exhaust (although the rings are worn too so this is probably because of that)
• Very thin, waterlike oil upon oil change

Symptoms that make me feel like it's not a blown gasket:

• No loss in engine power, no stalling at low speeds, nothing
• Not losing coolant
• No froth at the end of oil dipstick
• No pool of coolant under car when parked

I'm confused, and I really hope the Pakwheels community can figure out what's wrong with my car because I have no clue anymore

Regards,
Huzaifa Kafeel

[Djaymx]

Not particularly a blown gasket (quite possibly a leak) but it could be
1. stuck thermostat valve
2. clogged engine (coolant flow restricted)

Keeping in mind the temperature at the piston is very high due to combustion of fuel and that is where most of the heat is produced, if you have no coolant flow through these channels this will super-heat the coolant and may cause enough pressure that results in gasket leaks.

Best bet, Is to remove thermostat valve and put it in boiling water see if it works.
If thermostat is good, you have bigger problems which may require removing the head and cleaning the channels and replacing head-gasket.

Why this would happen? Using water instead of coolant. Rust and calcium build up and collects at the crevices essentially reducing the thermal efficiency of your cooling system.

I would use a Liqui-moly Radiator Flush and run the car for a few hundred kilometers (while removing the t-stat valve) completely remove rusk and gunk out of the system, fill it with coolant and monitor with a thermal sensor.

I have made a device exclusively to monitor engine heating issues, this device will notify you when the car exceeds the operating temperature.
Ideally, the car should not heat up even with stop-go traffic at 12pm noon one the hottest day of the year while A/C is turned on.

Here's my little experiment that helps me keep an eye on engine performance this summer. I have used AC all the while while parked, in the sun, in traffic I hope this helps you too.

[mehran]

Please make sure your water pump is working too. If water circulation is slow or completely stopped the fins of your water pump might have corroded. If so, then you only need to change the water pump. Changing a gasket is a big deal. Engine might suffer from compression loss after a new gasket is manually installed by a mechanic. To check for gasket leakage getting a compression test for each cylinder can also be done. Your piston rings and gasket will be verified.

[Djaymx]

Forgot to add that, since their car is old i believe a corroded water pump might be the main issue. Thanks

[dani_kk]

What's the life of radiator?
If it's a old one with choked front fins. It could cause this. Then 90% times bad water pump causes this issue on idle the engine rpm is low, the weak water pump will not be able to push coolant across the engine properly.

Or if not these above cases, then you've a leak somewhere which can pe inspected by finding any coolant colour spots. Incase of leaks you've to change that component.