Civic EG - SiR-T Swap

[haroon.virk]

And for your query regarding 1ZZ-FE or 2ZR-FE in an AE90, their capability is far beyond this, do pay them a visit but keep in mind the rates are high as compared to the market but the quality of work speaks for itself.
BTW - Why not a 2ZZ-GE?

2ZZ-GE is a high revving engine and is not fuel economical (just my thought), I think it consumes double the fuel as compared to 1ZZ-FE or 2ZR-FE. Any guess about fuel average? Also 2ZZ-GE requires high octane fuel and I think it starts knocking at normal octane fuel. The suspension have to upgrade, plus it also comes with 6 speed manual transmission and AE90 gear lever is 5 speed manual, so we have to modify or change the gear lever to work it like 6 speed manual gear lever.

And If I might go for 2ZZ-GE or something like that, what do you think going for 3S-GE Beams or 3S-GTE? One benefit of 2ZZ-GE is that one can easily find it in good condition as compared to 3S-GE Beams or 3S-GTE which is difficult to source in good condition. If you can share your thoughts about 2ZZ-GE, its advantages, disadvantages, etc I might go for this.

Can you PM these:
Contact info and address of "All Motor Automotive"?
Swap chargers of your swap which they charged you?

[shaheryar.khokhar]

I knew there was a difference between F20B MT v/s AT, but didn't realize it was that much. I can't seem to find a manual variant in Karachi. I might have to go with the auto one. I'll be meeting with Tariq bhai tomorrow, let's see what he has to say.

And yes, I'm planning on sticking with the stock motor without any mods or builds.

Don't go for the Auto F20B (180HP) variant, stick to a blacktop H22A instead cuz it still has 200HPs or else keep hunting for a MT variant of F20B, trust me it will worth all the money and time spent.

[shaheryar.khokhar]

I have never seen this kind of work having so much detail. About engine bay paint, did you done this paint from somewhere else or its also done by "All Motor Automotive"? Is it oven baked or simple?

The pay paint-job is also done there during the swap process, not the body paint-job tough. And its not baked paint but the paint quality is flawless, the painter is good I must say.

[shaheryar.khokhar]

2ZZ-GE is a high revving engine and is not fuel economical (just my thought), I think it consumes double the fuel as compared to 1ZZ-FE or 2ZR-FE. Any guess about fuel average? Also 2ZZ-GE requires high octane fuel and I think it starts knocking at normal octane fuel. The suspension have to upgrade, plus it also comes with 6 speed manual transmission and AE90 gear lever is 5 speed manual, so we have to modify or change the gear lever to work it like 6 speed manual gear lever.

And If I might go for 2ZZ-GE or something like that, what do you think going for 3S-GE Beams or 3S-GTE? One benefit of 2ZZ-GE is that one can easily find it in good condition as compared to 3S-GE Beams or 3S-GTE which is difficult to source in good condition. If you can share your thoughts about 2ZZ-GE, its advantages, disadvantages, etc I might go for this.

Can you PM these:
Contact info and address of "All Motor Automotive"?
Swap chargers of your swap which they charged you?

Why a swap if you're concerned about fuel average? Why not sticking to the stock motor than?
Plus I don't think there is going to be a day and a night difference when it comes to mileage. Agree to the high revving part but Im also fetching 11-12 KM/L on cruise from my F20B which can easily rev upto 8500 all stock (mine is at 7800 atm), shifter isn't a problem, even swapping this F motor I used OEM Prelude's cable shifter whereas EG's came with Rod shifters but its not a biggy, so give it a thought.

[hyder_m29]

I would suggest you to go and discuss about your swap with Tariq bhai.

Don't go for the Auto F20B (180HP) variant, stick to a blacktop H22A instead cuz it still has 200HPs or else keep hunting for a MT variant of F20B, trust me it will worth all the money and time spent.

Met with Tariq bhai today. He recommended I either go for a B16/B18 if I find one or an H23. He says the H23 swaps are pretty clean and the engines are not too dated. I'll be hard pressed finding a clean H22 or an F20 these days. I'll look around to see if what I can find, otherwise just settle for the H23 DOHC VTEC. It's my first swap, so I feel I can settle for something less than perfect if it means an easier job.

[supraman2jz]

Met with Tariq bhai today. He recommended I either go for a B16/B18 if I find one or an H23. He says the H23 swaps are pretty clean and the engines are not too dated. I'll be hard pressed finding a clean H22 or an F20 these days. I'll look around to see if what I can find, otherwise just settle for the H23 DOHC VTEC. It's my first swap, so I feel I can settle for something less than perfect if it means an easier job.

If you're going the H23 way, please do some reading on FRM sleeves.

[shaheryar.khokhar]

Met with Tariq bhai today. He recommended I either go for a B16/B18 if I find one or an H23. He says the H23 swaps are pretty clean and the engines are not too dated. I'll be hard pressed finding a clean H22 or an F20 these days. I'll look around to see if what I can find, otherwise just settle for the H23 DOHC VTEC. It's my first swap, so I feel I can settle for something less than perfect if it means an easier job.

There is no difference when swapping an H22A, H23A or an F20B. All of them share the same design and so do the mounts.

[hyder_m29]

If you're going the H23 way, please do some reading on FRM sleeves.

Do I need to be concerned with this if I'm planning to keep the motor stock and unboosted? (at least for now)

Also, don't the H22 and F20 have FRM sleeves as well?

[haroon.virk]

The pay paint-job is also done there during the swap process, not the body paint-job tough. And its not baked paint but the paint quality is flawless, the painter is good I must say.

I must say that it looks like baked paint. Did they remove the old paint before applying new? And did they use poteen? How much the engine bay paint job alone cost you?

[haroon.virk]

Why a swap if you're concerned about fuel average? Why not sticking to the stock motor than?
Plus I don't think there is going to be a day and a night difference when it comes to mileage. Agree to the high revving part but Im also fetching 11-12 KM/L on cruise from my F20B which can easily rev upto 8500 all stock (mine is at 7800 atm), shifter isn't a problem, even swapping this F motor I used OEM Prelude's cable shifter whereas EG's came with Rod shifters but its not a biggy, so give it a thought.

You are right but its not stock, was already swapped with 1.5L 1NZ-FE. I am not too much concerned about fuel average, just want some more power than the current motor with a little bit fuel average (it should not be a gas guzzler). Again you are right, I searched about 1ZZ-FE, 2ZR-FE & 2ZZ-GE fuel average and it turned out that both 1ZZ-FE & 2ZR-FE have almost same 15-16 km/l (highway) fuel average while 2ZZ-GE would give you about 14-15 km/l (highway) if not rev very hard, now I am seriously thinking to try this motor. Only problem now is high octane fuel as it is not available everywhere? Where can I find 2ZZ-GE in good condition? Should I get this engine from front cut or without front cut?

You are using 6 speed manual or 5 speed? Do you use high octane fuel for your motor? From where you get your motor, front cut or without?

I am talking about the gear lever/stick which is 6 speed having 4 cuts unlike in 5 speed having 3 cuts? Under gear console or in gear lever/stick I don't care what ever modifications can go but I don't want to do any modifications in gear console.

Still waiting your PM regarding these:
Contact info & address of "All Motor Automotive"?
Swap chargers of your swap which they charged you?
Thanks.

[shaheryar.khokhar]

Do I need to be concerned with this if I'm planning to keep the motor stock and unboosted? (at least for now)

Also, don't the H22 and F20 have FRM sleeves as well?

H22 and H23 comes with FRM sleeves, F20B has Iron casted sleeves, good for turbo setups.

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[shaheryar.khokhar]

You are right but its not stock, was already swapped with 1.5L 1NZ-FE. I am not too much concerned about fuel average, just want some more power than the current motor with a little bit fuel average (it should not be a gas guzzler). Again you are right, I searched about 1ZZ-FE, 2ZR-FE & 2ZZ-GE fuel average and it turned out that both 1ZZ-FE & 2ZR-FE have almost same 15-16 km/l (highway) fuel average while 2ZZ-GE would give you about 14-15 km/l (highway) if not rev very hard, now I am seriously thinking to try this motor. Only problem now is high octane fuel as it is not available everywhere? Where can I find 2ZZ-GE in good condition? Should I get this engine from front cut or without front cut?

You are using 6 speed manual or 5 speed? Do you use high octane fuel for your motor? From where you get your motor, front cut or without?

I am talking about the gear lever/stick which is 6 speed having 4 cuts unlike in 5 speed having 3 cuts? Under gear console or in gear lever/stick I don't care what ever modifications can go but I don't want to do any modifications in gear console.

Still waiting your PM regarding these:
Contact info & address of "All Motor Automotive"?
Swap chargers of your swap which they charged you?
Thanks.

Ofcourse I use high octane fuel for my motor that too isn't pure, you know whats pure and whats not in our country but still I keep the high octane on priority, and when its not available obviously I go for the regular one.
Nothing happens bro, there are a lot of Germens and British and all other cars running here in our country on the regular super fuel but Chalta hay yaar. Itna bhi sochna nahi chaye
P.S There's no 6Spd gear for H/F series.

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[haroon.virk]

Ofcourse I use high octane fuel for my motor that too isn't pure, you know whats pure and whats not in our country but still I keep the high octane on priority, and when its not available obviously I go for the regular one.
Nothing happens bro, there are a lot of Germens and British and all other cars running here in our country on the regular super fuel but Chalta hay yaar. Itna bhi sochna nahi chaye
P.S There's no 6Spd gear for H/F series.

Sent from my SM-J700H using PW Forums mobile app

Theek hai shaheryar bhai nahi sochta lekin agay b kuch share karain gain ya nahi....?

Na contact info PM ki hai?
Na swap charges bataey hain?

[shaheryar.khokhar]

Theek hai shaheryar bhai nahi sochta lekin agay b kuch share karain gain ya nahi....?

Na contact info PM ki hai?
Na swap charges bataey hain?

I have sent you my number via pm.

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[Deadly_Flame]

Shaheryar bro, I might've overlooked it, but have you done any brake upgrade? If not, then how is the braking on the OEM setup?

On a side note: What's your rim size?

[shaheryar.khokhar]

Shaheryar bro, I might've overlooked it, but have you done any brake upgrade? If not, then how is the braking on the OEM setup?

Brake upgrade is what usually people miss when swapping a car and is one of the major safety measures, I had it in my list but due to shortage of budget at the time of getting On Road I skipped that part and delayed it. My stock brakes were just fine, means they were good enough to stop the D15B but not for the F tbh.
What a coincidence it is that you asked for the Brake Upgrade part and my car went to the garage yesterday for the brake upgrade
Im using 11" rotors and 28mm thick plate with bigger callipers off from a Honda with upgraded booster and cylinder. Thanks to my man @uiv for this amazing brake upgrade setup.
Will post the pictures very soon, as I already mentioned Im taking this slow and steady, not rushing into everything at a same time.

[Deadly_Flame]

I've yet to buy the car for my project. Looking for a 2000 civic, exi has drum brakes and vti comes with the 4 disk wheels. So that's why I asked if the OEM setup was enough or not.

As for the bigger calipers, what brake pads will you use? I mean they won't be as easily available from the local shops. Or will they?

Good luck with the upgrade, looking forward to the review. Your's is going to be a reference project for me.

[shaheryar.khokhar]

I've yet to buy the car for my project. Looking for a 2000 civic, exi has drum brakes and vti comes with the 4 disk wheels. So that's why I asked if the OEM setup was enough or not.

As for the bigger calipers, what brake pads will you use? I mean they won't be as easily available from the local shops. Or will they?

Good luck with the upgrade, looking forward to the review. Your's is going to be a reference project for me.

Im using Accord CL Rotors, Callipers and OEM pads so if I need to replace the pads in the near future, they won't create an issue but won't be cheaper either.

[shaheryar.khokhar]

Here's the new brake setup.
11" rotors and bigger callipers with mint oem pads.

23mm on both and 8mm plate.

See the difference between stock 7" and upgraded 11" rotor.

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[uiv]

Im using Accord CL Rotors, Callipers and OEM pads so if I need to replace the pads in the near future, they won't create an issue but won't be cheaper either.

Bigger rotors not only just increase the brake leverage, so put less stress on brake system while increasing the work done, but also work as bigger heatsinks and dissipate heat quickly. Combine that with larger pad area, to divide brake force over more surface, and you're got yourself a win-win situation: better brakes and longer pad life.

I'm sure these pads would last about twice as long as your original sized one did. And when eventually they do run out, we'll find suitable and cheap replacement.