Civic ES D16W9 power output

[ghaeen]

Will do 100 percent,
I've to do some research, from what I can see on Google, we have honda avenue in Islamabad near gulberg,

I've everyone else telling me to not shift to a lower grade as it may cause leaks or something else because we don't know how the previous owner drove the thing or owned the thing, and that it might start burning oil since these engines are old and have been running for quite some time.

but I am inclined to at least try a Lower grade once I go to get this work done and oil changed since even websites show that these engines are supposed to run on thinner oils.
Would you recommend a shift to 5w30 such as yourself or somewhere in the middle like a 10w40 maybe.?

When I got the tappet cover seal changed the last time because I saw some leakage, the insides of the engine were brownish in color, the local mechanic recommended that I need to do one or two oil changes that are quicker with a liquimoly engine flush and that should clear it up for the most part inside, he added that the engine is in perfect health but has not been given the treatment that it deserves.

I genuinely need a full rounded checkup of the vehicle so that I have some surety that the car is reliable for longer drives and won't cause problems on the road.

[ghaeen]

Also..I genuinely appreciate all the time energy that you've put into these advices, really needed it

[manobilla16]

I am using Total Quarts 9000 (5w30) and takes 3.5 liters..... do an engine flush nothing will happen and switch to lower grade, yes if leaks are there you have to fix them. As told before few main leakage areas are there and can be fixed by replacing seals etc but put OEM parts.....

Honda Avenue i am not sure but there is a guy who uploads the video's on his YouTube (Awais ur Rehman) but labor tend to be higher side but check with them what they say.

Rest keep fingers crossed and keep us posted.

[ghaeen]

So apparently,
My father got me in contact with a person who used to work at Honda before, and we got the car's work done there, they opened up the right side and saw that the timing seals were leaking, and due to the connection with him (through my father) he gave a guarantee and mentioned the same thing as you kay cheez genuine lgani chahye,
The tappet cover was the main culprit, leaking from the back side, apparently, two bolts, the grooves inside were damaged and had to be repaired by the kharaadiya, and only then the bolts fit properly snug, they were lose and had play before but the previous random mechanic ripped me off and didn't point it out while installing the gasket and put on silicone, this one on the other hand said, sir gasket genuine ho tou silicone lganay ki zaroorat ni parti and went on, lo and behold the work was done, two timing seals, a generator belt replacement, engine flush, tappet cover gasket, and two sleeves repaired( I feel that the repair on the sleeves in a temporary one though, hopefully we won't have to open the tappet cover again).
He checked stuff out further and said that the browning on the inside of the engine is because it has been running on dirty khula/mota oil before. Upon his suggestion we went for a 10w40oil grade and he added that the next oil change would need to be quicker I.e., 1500 tk, his logic is that this oil will get dirtier quicker considering the insides of the engine, and if there are no leaks still, we'd eventually go to a 5w30 or 5w40 oil grade. Aglay ny guarantee di tou I was like fine, right now,the car is...so so much better, smoother in response, although the rpm drop issue still is persisting, it can't idle properly once you're driving for 20+ minutes and encounter traffic, you have to keep giving it some throttle, this might be because of an issue with a throttle body, mechanic recommends a kabuli throttle body instead of fiddling with the existing one's Autochoke. Would love to hear some thoughts,
Also, to add to this, the oil pan does have a gasket yes? Because that's the only argument that I have when I spoke to mechanics, they say that the oil pan is connected using silicone and bolts whereas I too believe that there's a gasket used for the oil pan.
I will come to this thread again after having driven 200 kms or so and surely update if I find leakages or issues again.

[pwuser150504674948]

one of the reasons for leaking seals is blocked PCV valve, instead of replacing all the seals first check or replace the PCV valve with a genuine one.

if they still leak significantly then replace seals. major culprit is tappet seal mostly because it is ideally torque wrenched to specs but the mechanics always try to overtighten it which ruins the bolts and seal.

genuine tappet seal needs silicone as well but at specific sites only.

[ghaeen]

I'll definitely research that, and yes one hundred percent, mechanics do tend to tighten it as much as possible and the same has been repeated in this case as well, the car isn't leaking right now at all, it's performing amazingly on thinner oil too,
One additional thing that I noticed was when I look at the engine, on the right side..throttle body's right and on the intake manifold..there are some inlet/outlets that were disconnected...I.e., they don't have any pipes connected to them, could this be a culprit behind under performance too? Mechanic states that this is a fuel related thing (I think he was saying that this is the place where you get an FPR installed). How important is it? Should I get one? What to look out for and what should be it's calibration settings, where can I get that done in isb?.
Please advise..

[ZainMahdi]

also would you guys recommend a swap to EPS

Don't do this. Keep the original hydraulic steering.

[ghaeen]

After checking a little bit, our civic pkdm d1)w9 apparently doesn't have a pcv valve at all...weird but that's what I've seen and have been told. Came across another thread on the forums where people indicated the same thing..

[ghaeen]

@hash4u any advice here sir.

[ZainMahdi]

There is no way that it doesn't have a PCV valve. The crankcase needs some sort of ventilation. They aren't in places that you'd expect on D16 engines. I would show you a picture from my own car, but unfortunately, it had it's D16W9 swapped for a D17A2 engine not very long ago.
Try to look carefully above the oil filter between the intake manifold runners.

[ghaeen]

Thank you sir..will get it checked out, also, where would I be able to find a replacement incase that is damaged,(asking about pindi). Should I opt for a new or kabuli part? And what do the mechanics call it in desi language..I fear they won't understand when I come at them with the "positive crankcase ventilation system".
Would you also be able to guide as to what part goes beneath the right side of the air filter? I see three inlet/outlets open and no pipes attached to them

[ZainMahdi]

[ZainMahdi]

Number 3 in the diagram is the valve. Take the air filter box off.

[ghaeen]

NICEEE, where can we get more of these diagrams from?

[ghaeen]

Update: going to get this car scanned and sensor stuff checked out by someone that knows the computer and intricate details of this engine..in essence to check for any jugaars on the engine and to figure out next steps on how to remove them..the inlets/outlets under the intake manifold is something that I wanna investigate...
Following issues are pending further investigation..hopefully will have more answers tomorrow
1. After new timing seals and a tappet cover gasket, we're seeing a leakage from the camshaft seal side..
2. Car drops RPMS when I clutch in and it should go to 800 to idle...especially when I'm using the AC
3. ABS light still on..prolly a broken wire or a dirty sensor..
4. Definitely going to check out the PCV valve for the leakage issue.
5. Going to checkout the empty inlets and outlets on the intake/fuel rail.
6.a hard steering wheel..prolly a weak pump...
7. Really bad petrol average..I believe the car is running rich...
Will keep you guys posted.
Wish me luck.

[ghaeen]

So quick update, got the car checked out, leakage is gone, for now.
We got a computerized checkup as well, the TP sensor position was a bit off, and the pictures shared below where I wasn't seeing any pipes connected, now that is all set as well, turns out that the car was running rich due to a bad fuel rail and set of injectors, got that replaced and that made a huge difference, it feels like the car can breathe now and performes a helluva lot better as well,
I don't see any leakages for now,
But I do think that my engine needs a valve lash adjustment, considering that on startup idle revs, I hear a very minor ticking sound. Or could that be because I recently shifted to 10w40 oil?
Any advices or things to be kept in mind while getting that done..?

[pwuser150504674948]

There is indeed a PCV valve in D15/16. Mechanics call it 'Blow Wall", they usually go blank when you use technical names . It is located on the back of engine near firewall.
5. The empty pipes you see are like this in PKDM models.

dont go over 10w30 for engine oil. In my case this car is really happy on Havoline 10w30.

[ghaeen]

Thank you for that info sir, we found the PCV valve, it was in working condition according to the mechanic but I will get it checked once again to be sure, I did start reading about it and how the whole system works, seems like a really crucial thing in leakage prevention and often at times overlooked.
99 percent of the issues are now sorted, car hasn't leaked or anything but next month I think I should get the valves adjusted to where they should me.
Now in this I believe I will face a problem...

Last time, when I got the tappet cover gasket work done, the kharaadiya used a tapping thread tool to just install a thread for two bolts that were slipping and tightened the bolts, ideally what should be done for an aluminum block (as I've been told) is that you would have to install a sleeve/thread made of a harder metal inside the hole and then tighten...this step was skipped and I found out after more research that it shouldn't have been..
Now if we try and open the tappet cover(to adjust the valves) .i fear that it won't retighten and we'd have to take off the head and get this fixed...

Any advice in this regard?

[ZainMahdi]

Any advice in this regard?

This is a very common problem in local D series engines, because the mechanics overtighten it like apes.
The fix is very simple; look up helicoil thread repair. You might need to order them online; I got mine from daraz ages ago. It was shipped from china.

[ghaeen]

Will do zain sb. Thank you so much for the suggestion here.
Also folks..new problem..
There are two lines coming out of the fuel pump..one is a shorter one I believe...used for fumes regulation or something...
So..the week before,.the mechanic who did the computer checkup and the TP sensor thing said that this is blocked off and it shouldn't be..it's for regulating gases in the tank and stuff..he opened it..And left it..
Now when I got the tank filled up today and left the station...lo and behold there's a shit ton of petrol leaking out of the car right below the fuel tank...when I immediately rushed to another mechanic in proximity and got it checked...he opened the cover above the pump and there was a pool of petrol...so he blocked off the line and said that this is supposed to be blocked..now what doesn't make sense to my brain is that why would the company put something there if it's supposed to be blocked off..and it must have a purpose...I'm just trying to figure that out...any advice regarding this folks?