Civic ES D16W9 power output

[ghaeen]

Hi dear pakwheelers,

Eid mubarak to everyone celebrating!

I've a couple of questions regarding the car and specifically the engine in question as I've recently bought a 2005 eagle eye with a D16W9 engine.
A couple of things that I want to learn here are:

1) Ive read online that this particular engine has a two step vtec switchover and this is something that I've not heard before, is it possible that this feature is inactive as I don't really feel the legendary switchover in the recent pulls that I've done.

2) I want an overall checkup of this engine, performance wise, I live in. Isb/pindi, is there a honda specialist recommended that knows these engine types in depth and could check if I'm really getting out the power that this engine is supposed to deliver.

3) are minor leakages in these old engines normal?(Attaching a picture)Uploading... Uploading... By minor I mean that I don't notice much oil reduction or anythig, rather it's one or two drops on the floor
a) I recently got the tappet cover gasket (jang) changed, since that was something that concerned me, what else could be the culprit here and how should I investigate..if I shouldn't..who'd be the right honda guy for this in twin cities
B)my own power steering seems a bit harder while turning.(Just a slight bit) after I recently drove a friend's d17a civic of the same model. What could be the cause here.

4) I completely understand that before wanting to get power and good pulls out of the car, the basics such as engine oil leakeges and other probable problems need to be addressed before I try and get out more performance.
To that end, I've noticed that after my recent oil change (the mechanic put in 20w50 3.6 - 3.7 litres shell oil in the car)
The dip stick seems to show a really high level of oil in the car compared to the high low points that are generally there on the dipstick, is it possible that the previous owner or mechanic has been using a dipstick that is not meant for this engine type? (Attaching a picture)
Also..does this engine need 20w50 really or is supposed to run on thinner oil...

5)after a longer drive..for instance going on the high in 4th and 5th gear and then slowing down and entering a market..to shift down..when I put the clutch in to shift to a lower gear..the rpm doesn't come to 800, rather it drops and requires a little help with the foot to stay up so the car doesn't shut off, I presume this isn't normal. Recently got the fuel pump serviced and throttle body cleaned(mechanic didn't remove the throttle body, left it on). Could this be an auto choke thing?

Appreciate any tips and advices here for first time civic owners, also would you guys recommend a swap to EPS For the steering and some basic mods to improve the car once the basics are sorted.

Thank you and have a great day ahead,
Cheers!

[ghaeen]

[manobilla16]

..does this engine need 20w50 really or is supposed to run on thinner o

These engines are prone to oil leak more often... What i did
1. Change tappet cover, OEM was 2500 i guess from Honda
2. 5 tappet silver bolt having silver washel... 500 each 2 years back from Honda
3. Tappet cover plastic cover seal, dont know what to call it.. 600 from honda...
4. Also check chamber gasket, if leaking replace with OEM,. cannot recall exact price maybe 4500
5. 2 seals from timing side. not very expensive
6. Last very imp is oil leak from oil pump side. you have to remove everything to take out the pump. it has o-ring that needs replacement, mechanics put silicone not sure will work.

Make sure you put OEM parts, not very hard to find as same seals are being used in other engines later generations. I sourced parts from Honda Sugoi in Lahore (Walton Road) and from Honda Johar town as car is being maintained from there. Labor is some high but they have right tools.

Also replace PSF with genuine not very expensive.. 2000 or less i guess and MTF.
If there leak in steering pump you can get complete kit from Honda on order but aftermarket i doubt will work as told by Honda Johar town.

Fuel filter which was 15000 i guess last time i checked, which i also need to get changed, Yes the parts are expensive as compared to new models but this is how it is...

3 bottles of type-2 coolant 1150 each, it will take 3 if manual.

I am using 5w30 total quarts 9000 till 4500 km and is working fine Alhamdullah.

vtec i am not sure because mine is D15y3 exi... but D16w9 is single vtec let experts shed more light

[ghaeen]

Thank you for the advice here bilal bhai, these seem like words coming from someone that has been there and seen these times .
Would I have to get all these things done right now and that should keep me in the clear for later? Or should I address the problem at hand which is a leakage from the right side which I think is coming from either the oil pump seal or timing belt seal?
And how has your experience been once you got these things done? A 5w40 oil would defo run a lot smoother compared to what my machine is on rn which is a 20w50 shell.
And would you recommend that I get all this done from honda official places like a 3S dealership? Or should I just get the parts sourced from Honda and then the work from a local mechanic?
I've heard that Honda can be quite a bit expensive as well,
As for the single vtec, my source of info was Wikipedia on honda engines, that is what stated that this engine makes 130hp with a 3 stage vtec. I'm defo not an expert on this topic.
As for the coolant, defo going to get that done too, the car is a manual vti.
Added note, recently came home from my last drive and saw more than what someone would call a few drops of oil..which does raise concerns for me so I'm not driving the car anymore till I get this cleared.
Any idea on how much this all should cost me with labor?

[ghaeen]

Also...surprised to see that Honda company places still offer services for 20 year Old cars, that was something that I was not aware of

[manobilla16]

you can get the parts from Honda Sugoi which is company operated outlet, in 3-4 major cities.

Yes i got the parts from them like timing belt, belt adjuster, seals, tappet gasket etc and can be arranged from factory upon availability. You will believe they have bumper spacers and fender shields (4500 each), , yes parts are expensive.

Get work from Honda 2S, labor is same as a bahir wala mechanic but they know the thing. If you are in Lahore go to Honda Johar Town they are good.. as they mostly work on Hondas so they have quite a knowledge of things.

20w50 is not meant for these engines, switch to lower grade. Unless not inspected no one can tell where is leak from but as per my experience these are the main areas where leak could have been.

[ghaeen]

Will do 100 percent,
I've to do some research, from what I can see on Google, we have honda avenue in Islamabad near gulberg,

I've everyone else telling me to not shift to a lower grade as it may cause leaks or something else because we don't know how the previous owner drove the thing or owned the thing, and that it might start burning oil since these engines are old and have been running for quite some time.

but I am inclined to at least try a Lower grade once I go to get this work done and oil changed since even websites show that these engines are supposed to run on thinner oils.
Would you recommend a shift to 5w30 such as yourself or somewhere in the middle like a 10w40 maybe.?

When I got the tappet cover seal changed the last time because I saw some leakage, the insides of the engine were brownish in color, the local mechanic recommended that I need to do one or two oil changes that are quicker with a liquimoly engine flush and that should clear it up for the most part inside, he added that the engine is in perfect health but has not been given the treatment that it deserves.

I genuinely need a full rounded checkup of the vehicle so that I have some surety that the car is reliable for longer drives and won't cause problems on the road.

[ghaeen]

Also..I genuinely appreciate all the time energy that you've put into these advices, really needed it

[manobilla16]

I am using Total Quarts 9000 (5w30) and takes 3.5 liters..... do an engine flush nothing will happen and switch to lower grade, yes if leaks are there you have to fix them. As told before few main leakage areas are there and can be fixed by replacing seals etc but put OEM parts.....

Honda Avenue i am not sure but there is a guy who uploads the video's on his YouTube (Awais ur Rehman) but labor tend to be higher side but check with them what they say.

Rest keep fingers crossed and keep us posted.

[ghaeen]

So apparently,
My father got me in contact with a person who used to work at Honda before, and we got the car's work done there, they opened up the right side and saw that the timing seals were leaking, and due to the connection with him (through my father) he gave a guarantee and mentioned the same thing as you kay cheez genuine lgani chahye,
The tappet cover was the main culprit, leaking from the back side, apparently, two bolts, the grooves inside were damaged and had to be repaired by the kharaadiya, and only then the bolts fit properly snug, they were lose and had play before but the previous random mechanic ripped me off and didn't point it out while installing the gasket and put on silicone, this one on the other hand said, sir gasket genuine ho tou silicone lganay ki zaroorat ni parti and went on, lo and behold the work was done, two timing seals, a generator belt replacement, engine flush, tappet cover gasket, and two sleeves repaired( I feel that the repair on the sleeves in a temporary one though, hopefully we won't have to open the tappet cover again).
He checked stuff out further and said that the browning on the inside of the engine is because it has been running on dirty khula/mota oil before. Upon his suggestion we went for a 10w40oil grade and he added that the next oil change would need to be quicker I.e., 1500 tk, his logic is that this oil will get dirtier quicker considering the insides of the engine, and if there are no leaks still, we'd eventually go to a 5w30 or 5w40 oil grade. Aglay ny guarantee di tou I was like fine, right now,the car is...so so much better, smoother in response, although the rpm drop issue still is persisting, it can't idle properly once you're driving for 20+ minutes and encounter traffic, you have to keep giving it some throttle, this might be because of an issue with a throttle body, mechanic recommends a kabuli throttle body instead of fiddling with the existing one's Autochoke. Would love to hear some thoughts,
Also, to add to this, the oil pan does have a gasket yes? Because that's the only argument that I have when I spoke to mechanics, they say that the oil pan is connected using silicone and bolts whereas I too believe that there's a gasket used for the oil pan.
I will come to this thread again after having driven 200 kms or so and surely update if I find leakages or issues again.

[pwuser150504674948]

one of the reasons for leaking seals is blocked PCV valve, instead of replacing all the seals first check or replace the PCV valve with a genuine one.

if they still leak significantly then replace seals. major culprit is tappet seal mostly because it is ideally torque wrenched to specs but the mechanics always try to overtighten it which ruins the bolts and seal.

genuine tappet seal needs silicone as well but at specific sites only.

[ghaeen]

I'll definitely research that, and yes one hundred percent, mechanics do tend to tighten it as much as possible and the same has been repeated in this case as well, the car isn't leaking right now at all, it's performing amazingly on thinner oil too,
One additional thing that I noticed was when I look at the engine, on the right side..throttle body's right and on the intake manifold..there are some inlet/outlets that were disconnected...I.e., they don't have any pipes connected to them, could this be a culprit behind under performance too? Mechanic states that this is a fuel related thing (I think he was saying that this is the place where you get an FPR installed). How important is it? Should I get one? What to look out for and what should be it's calibration settings, where can I get that done in isb?.
Please advise..

[ZainMahdi]

also would you guys recommend a swap to EPS

Don't do this. Keep the original hydraulic steering.

[ghaeen]

After checking a little bit, our civic pkdm d1)w9 apparently doesn't have a pcv valve at all...weird but that's what I've seen and have been told. Came across another thread on the forums where people indicated the same thing..

[ghaeen]

@hash4u any advice here sir.

[ZainMahdi]

There is no way that it doesn't have a PCV valve. The crankcase needs some sort of ventilation. They aren't in places that you'd expect on D16 engines. I would show you a picture from my own car, but unfortunately, it had it's D16W9 swapped for a D17A2 engine not very long ago.
Try to look carefully above the oil filter between the intake manifold runners.

[ghaeen]

Thank you sir..will get it checked out, also, where would I be able to find a replacement incase that is damaged,(asking about pindi). Should I opt for a new or kabuli part? And what do the mechanics call it in desi language..I fear they won't understand when I come at them with the "positive crankcase ventilation system".
Would you also be able to guide as to what part goes beneath the right side of the air filter? I see three inlet/outlets open and no pipes attached to them

[ZainMahdi]

[ZainMahdi]

Number 3 in the diagram is the valve. Take the air filter box off.

[ghaeen]

NICEEE, where can we get more of these diagrams from?