CVT Start Clutch Calibration - The AUTEL Way

[rustam54]

Custom Controller is no big deal. I have been playing with Atmega and Pic 16F and 18 F since 2008. I also have ELM with me.

Problem is that When ELM would be used for TCC it would not work for diagnostics at same time. What solution do you suggest. By the way i have elm with Neela Dant....... bluetooth

You want to use the same ELM for diagnostics, or do you want to use the DLC while the ELM is doing tranny stuff??

For 1, you can use two switches. One for turning blutooth IC power off or on. The second for re-routing Serial Link between either Blutooth IC or external controller. Since wires will be short, there wont be much noise issue.

For 2, instead of directly plugging in DLC, one can strip the wire behind port (its latched in a bracket below dashboard). And connect 3 Connections, for J1850 Bus and Signal Ground. This is a BUS network. Means if you still connect another tool to DLC (which is free now), it will communicate while the ELM is working in background. If somehow, it doesnt communicate, we can throw in another switch to stop power to ELM and let the other tool communicate. Both options are workable.

[rustam54]

Custom Controller is no big deal. I have been playing with Atmega and Pic 16F and 18 F since 2008. I also have ELM with me.

Problem is that When ELM would be used for TCC it would not work for diagnostics at same time. What solution do you suggest. By the way i have elm with Neela Dant....... bluetooth

You want to use the same ELM for diagnostics, or do you want to use the DLC while the ELM is doing tranny stuff??

For 1, you can use two switches. One for turning blutooth IC power off or on. The second for re-routing Serial Link between either Blutooth IC or external controller. Since wires will be short, there wont be much noise issue.

For 2, instead of directly plugging in DLC, one can strip the wire behind port (its latched in a bracket below dashboard). And connect 3 Connections, for J1850 Bus and Signal Ground. This is a BUS network. Means if you still connect another tool to DLC (which is free now), it will communicate while the ELM is working in background. If somehow, it doesnt communicate, we can throw in another switch to stop power to ELM and let the other tool communicate. Both options are workable.

[afnan.bashir]

OR I could buy bluetooth module integrate it with controller and keep comunicating with elm. If we want diagnostic simply turn that controller off

[rustam54]

OR I could buy bluetooth module integrate it with controller and keep comunicating with elm. If we want diagnostic simply turn that controller off

Wont work in my opinion. How would you pair them together over bluetooth?? Anyways I found something that MIGHT get things started.

[galant1]

@xulfiqar @afnan.bashir

Okay I understand transmission in civic 99-00 is hydraulic not controlled by ecu. Please tell me solution of two different scenarios:

1. If D4 is blinking, how to check the problem and how to find the faulty code?
2. If D4 is not glowing, how to check the problem and how to find the faulty code?

[Xulfiqar]

the D4 blinking (which cannot happen in your car) is the "check transmission" warning indication light,

If the D4 lamp is not working at all then its bulb is blown or neutral safety switch is out of alignment if its a regular hydraulic transmission, If its electric shift then the D4 lamp is wired from the ECU itself and that circuit also needs to be checked.

[galant1]

the D4 blinking (which cannot happen in your car) is the "check transmission" warning indication light,

If the D4 lamp is not working at all then its bulb is blown or neutral safety switch is out of alignment if its a regular hydraulic transmission, If its electric shift then the D4 lamp is wired from the ECU itself and that circuit also needs to be checked.

@xulfiqar

I read the manual , it is written that if d4 is blinking or it is off, then there is some abnormalities in system and it can be checked by connection obd scanner. What is this written in manual for my car.

Is this statement is very strong contradict with your argument that you told me in previous post?????

[Xulfiqar]

@Xulfiqar

I read the manual , it is written that if d4 is blinking or it is off, then there is some abnormalities in system and it can be checked by connection obd scanner. What is this written in manual for my car.

Is this statement is very strong contradict with your argument that you told me in previous post?????

That manual was copied from the international market owner manual. Your car's indication lamps are hard wired from the neutral safety switch directly to the dashboard gauges. The cars with electric shift transmissions have the "D4" or "D" indication wired directly "from" the ECU or TCU - (please note that I write from the ECU)

The neutral safety switch on those cars have the "D4" or "D" switch signal going "to" the ECU or TCU - so when you shift to D the ECU turns on the D4 or D lamp when all is normal.

If it senses a speed problem (input and counter speed error) or lazy shift etc then the D4 or D will start to flash (alarming the driver of transmission being put into limp home mode)

Your car has hydraulic transmission and is devoid of such function.

[galant1]

That manual was copied from the international market owner manual. Your car's indication lamps are hard wired from the neutral safety switch directly to the dashboard gauges. The cars with electric shift transmissions have the "D4" or "D" indication wired directly "from" the ECU or TCU - (please note that I write from the ECU)

The neutral safety switch on those cars have the "D4" or "D" switch signal going "to" the ECU or TCU - so when you shift to D the ECU turns on the D4 or D lamp when all is normal.

If it senses a speed problem (input and counter speed error) or lazy shift etc then the D4 or D will start to flash (alarming the driver of transmission being put into limp home mode)

Your car has hydraulic transmission and is devoid of such function.

At honda, we they connected their scanner to ecu, when I turning the gear from P, R, n , d4, d3 and 2, these shifting was showing in their live data in pgmfi system. Shifting was shown in the live data. Its means shifting is controlled by ecu because it is showing in ecu live data when shift from p to 2.

Why shifting was showing in ecu live data in pgmfi

[Xulfiqar]

At honda, we they connected their scanner to ecu, when I turning the gear from P, R, n , d4, d3 and 2, these shifting was showing in their live data in pgmfi system. Shifting was shown in the live data. Its means shifting is controlled by ecu because it is showing in ecu live data when shift from p to 2.

Why shifting was showing in ecu live data in pgmfi

You are misunderstanding the scan tool.

The change of the shifter position is registering the binary switches activity when they are shorted to ground as you move the shifter. Nothing more. If you were to see shift (as in prosmatec civic data) you would see speed sensors input data, shift solenoid activity, lockup activity data etc.

Why do you think that Atlas Honda Motorcars gave you an electric shift automatic transmission equipped 2000 model year civic?

Lets take another point.

you also see engine temperature on the scan dont you? - so does that mean the radiator fan is controlled by the ECU also?

[galant1]

You are misunderstanding the scan tool.

The change of the shifter position is registering the binary switches activity when they are shorted to ground as you move the shifter. Nothing more. If you were to see shift (as in prosmatec civic data) you would see speed sensors input data, shift solenoid activity, lockup activity data etc.

Why do you think that Atlas Honda Motorcars gave you an electric shift automatic transmission equipped 2000 model year civic?

Lets take another point.

you also see engine temperature on the scan dont you? - so does that mean the radiator fan is controlled by the ECU also?

Yes you are right but I am confusing that why live data showing shifting from p to 2?

Also tell me how auto fan become start to turn on when reaching the specific temperature if it is not controlled by ecu?

[Xulfiqar]

Yes you are right but I am confusing that why live data showing shifting from p to 2?

Also tell me how auto fan become start to turn on when reaching the specific temperature if it is not controlled by ecu?

as I said the live data is showing the binary switches output as the lever moves - each position has a contact switch which shorts to ground. As this car has a K line it can show that bus data too given the correct interrogation.

The radiator fan is switched on by a simple thermoswitch on the thermostat housing - it shorts to ground when the predetermined temperature of "closed" is reach. This activity grounds the fan relay bobbin coil and pulls the contacts to run the fan.

[afnan.bashir]

@galant1 there are various types of transmissions. Like yours and Mine there is everything controlled by pressure. Your ECU may just control the TCC Solenoids. Not the Shifting. Post Picture of your transmission so that we can see if your car has the one that came with it

[star2]

as I said the live data is showing the binary switches output as the lever moves - each position has a contact switch which shorts to ground. As this car has a K line it can show that bus data too given the correct interrogation.

The radiator fan is switched on by a simple thermoswitch on the thermostat housing - it shorts to ground when the predetermined temperature of "closed" is reach. This activity grounds the fan relay bobbin coil and pulls the contacts to run the fan.

yaar what the heck how explains like this man and your these types of replies make me read your whole threads, very bad

[Xulfiqar]

yaar what the heck how explains like this man and your these types of replies make me read your whole threads, very bad

what did I do?

[rustam54]

what did I do?

In other words, @star2 wants to say is

"You had my curosity, but now you have my attention...................Dammit"

[star2]

@rustam54

Can you please enlighten me how's your experience going on with the Autel, and especially what is your view of it working on JDMs? Which cars you have till date tried it on ?

[rustam54]

@rustam54

Can you please enlighten me how's your experience going on with the Autel, and especially what is your view of it working on JDMs? Which cars you have till date tried it on ?

Sir, the experience is going along pretty good.

So far I have had the opportunity of hooking it up to following cars

1. City AT 09: Going into Transmission, DBW and Cluster
2. City Steermatic: Going into CVT Transmission
3. City iDSI: Adjusting Idle Mixture Adjustment (From Trimpot)
4. City iDSI: Vario: Adjusting IDLE TP Value
5. Toyota Vitz 2012: Transmission Access
6. Toyota Mark X: For Hobby Purposes
7. Toyota Gli 2NZ-FE: VVTi Testing ON-OFF, MANUAL CAM PHASE Changes, Manual Fuel Trim Increments/Decrements, Individual Cylinder Disengagement, Individual Cluster Gauge Tests etc etc

Now here is the thing which inclines me more towards Honda's than Toyota's. With a Honda Scan, the diag tool takes about 1 to 3 minutes and fetches everything the vehicle has to offer. ECM/AT/EPS/Electrical/ABS etc

With the Toyota, the tool offers so much more options before it can allow access to full features of the car. Example. you have to select multiple (upto 4-5 options) for a JDM car. e.g. Select Region (US,UK,JDM,Other) Select Yaris, Then Select 1KR-FE (out of other options), Then Select Frame Type, Then Select Production Year, Then With or Without Push Start, Then with or Without Smart Key etc etc etc

If you dont select the right fields, especially in Region, frame numbers or production year, some of the options which are available in the car wont be visible. However, with the Toyota's (JDMs or Local), the startup is pretty fast.

Like i usually say, I am still getting familiar with it. I hope this answers your question

[star2]

Sir, the experience is going along pretty good.

So far I have had the opportunity of hooking it up to following cars

1. City AT 09: Going into Transmission, DBW and Cluster
2. City Steermatic: Going into CVT Transmission
3. City iDSI: Adjusting Idle Mixture Adjustment (From Trimpot)
4. City iDSI: Vario: Adjusting IDLE TP Value
5. Toyota Vitz 2012: Transmission Access
6. Toyota Mark X: For Hobby Purposes
7. Toyota Gli 2NZ-FE: VVTi Testing ON-OFF, MANUAL CAM PHASE Changes, Manual Fuel Trim Increments/Decrements, Individual Cylinder Disengagement, Individual Cluster Gauge Tests etc etc

Now here is the thing which inclines me more towards Honda's than Toyota's. With a Honda Scan, the diag tool takes about 1 to 3 minutes and fetches everything the vehicle has to offer. ECM/AT/EPS/Electrical/ABS etc

With the Toyota, the tool offers so much more options before it can allow access to full features of the car. Example. you have to select multiple (upto 4-5 options) for a JDM car. e.g. Select Region (US,UK,JDM,Other) Select Yaris, Then Select 1KR-FE (out of other options), Then Select Frame Type, Then Select Production Year, Then With or Without Push Start, Then with or Without Smart Key etc etc etc

If you dont select the right fields, especially in Region, frame numbers or production year, some of the options which are available in the car wont be visible. However, with the Toyota's (JDMs or Local), the startup is pretty fast.

Like i usually say, I am still getting familiar with it. I hope this answers your question

Yeah you cleared it well brother. it is a viable option for me after your reply. I mostly work on Nissans and would tend to do so in future as well. Anyhow, it is not end of the world i think buying a scanner, mostly professionals i have seen with multiple of them, i was just eyeing for my 1st best purchase that could cover me up for most of the vehicles here in PK. anyways, thanks for your support. If you don't mind, just pm your number, i might call u up and we can have a talk, if you get free five min.

Regards.

[Xulfiqar]

Sir, the experience is going along pretty good.

So far I have had the opportunity of hooking it up to following cars

1. City AT 09: Going into Transmission, DBW and Cluster
2. City Steermatic: Going into CVT Transmission
3. City iDSI: Adjusting Idle Mixture Adjustment (From Trimpot)
4. City iDSI: Vario: Adjusting IDLE TP Value
5. Toyota Vitz 2012: Transmission Access
6. Toyota Mark X: For Hobby Purposes
7. Toyota Gli 2NZ-FE: VVTi Testing ON-OFF, MANUAL CAM PHASE Changes, Manual Fuel Trim Increments/Decrements, Individual Cylinder Disengagement, Individual Cluster Gauge Tests etc etc

Now here is the thing which inclines me more towards Honda's than Toyota's. With a Honda Scan, the diag tool takes about 1 to 3 minutes and fetches everything the vehicle has to offer. ECM/AT/EPS/Electrical/ABS etc

With the Toyota, the tool offers so much more options before it can allow access to full features of the car. Example. you have to select multiple (upto 4-5 options) for a JDM car. e.g. Select Region (US,UK,JDM,Other) Select Yaris, Then Select 1KR-FE (out of other options), Then Select Frame Type, Then Select Production Year, Then With or Without Push Start, Then with or Without Smart Key etc etc etc

If you dont select the right fields, especially in Region, frame numbers or production year, some of the options which are available in the car wont be visible. However, with the Toyota's (JDMs or Local), the startup is pretty fast.

Like i usually say, I am still getting familiar with it. I hope this answers your question

thats the silly toieta crap I hate - I mean what the heck....

then OTOH you connect Subaru and its a whole new game altogether, funky stuff going on. German cars specially MB are still a bit crazy - some of their lower level SRS error codes pop up in german.. or their transmission error codes require a simple calculation on paper like subtract 80 from counting and add alphabet "fallana fallana" then find code - RIGHT.............. Im trying to fix a transmission not play pirates of the carribean here.