Diagnosing a spongy brake pedal

[Xulfiqar]

it should be above the nipple level or the reservoir level?

above the bleed a little.

[syncview]

above the bleed a little.

Roger that

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[mashriqain]

How many clicks does the handbrake take?

4-5 I think, rear drum brakes setting/adjusting or whatever its called has been done.

[mashriqain]

Yep, correct

EDIT: also, you're not supposed to suck thru the bleed valve, you're supposed to apply pressure of about 15-18psi into the bleed valve so that the brake fluid and air come out from the reservoir

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Are you sure? Sucking through bleed valve sounds simpler... using a kit like this:

Mityvac 8000 Automotive Tune Up and Brake Bleeding Kit | eBay

I'll be doing a gravity bleed then follow up as you have suggested in the posts above. Let's see if it solves the issue.

Material of the brake pads (assuming 4-wheel disc brake) is important. If you are using MK Kashiyama yellow box with purple printing leather brake pads then your brake pedal will be soft like a mattress. Reason mentioning MK is that it is favourite of mechanics and most recommended by spare parts shops.

If you are using something like Tasaki or Kentex the brake pedal will feel very firm on brake press. (This doesn't guarantee shortest stopping distance, though - user experience and machine performance are two different terms. What I am saying is that regardless of the brake performance, hard brake pads could give you your required pedal feel).

I'm using the proper product coded Genuine Toyota brake pads made by Advics.

Now heres a bit of "somewhat" bad news - if you suspect the MC has trapped air.

If at any point of time the master cylinder went dry - its loaded with air which wont bleed unless you bleed it individually first, Its very easy - you need some cut up brake connections and some transparent bleed pipe.

remove all the brake pressure pipes - and connect your junk fittings, push the clear pipes over them and dip them all into the brake fluid reservoir on the cylinder, slowly pump the pedal half stroke each time and wait about 2 seconds between pumps - make sure you release the pedal completely on each pump. The air bubbles will be seen in the pipes and when the fluid goes clear - the MC is ready for service.

connect all your hardware back and bleed the wheel slave units.

I hope it isn't the MC...

[syncview]

Are you sure? Sucking through bleed valve sounds simpler... using a kit like this:

Mityvac 8000 Automotive Tune Up and Brake Bleeding Kit | eBay

that kit doesn't suck from the bleed valve, it pushes brake oil with pressure into the bleed valve and makes the fluid or air come out the brake oil reservoir

link to Xulfiqar's post:

https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/electrical-wiring-battery-lights/226750-qg18de-error-codes-11#post4217139

[Xulfiqar]

the mityvac kit is useless for ABS cars and is a PITA to use.

whats wrong with using a jar and pipe.

[syncview]

Any updates?

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[mashriqain]

Any updates?

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Haven't got a chance to do it yet. Shall update as soon as I do it.