Diesel engine health

[AmeerUsman]

Nice info shared.

[syncview]

diesel vehicles are uhhh.. complicated! but yum yum yum torquey..

[ansarghani]

@Xulfiqar
I have a problem to discuss with you. I have 3C-turbo in my car. It starts in a jiffy in the morning after few seconds of heater. It also started in the same manner even in early mornings back in December/January. Now the problem i am facing is when the engine become hot it starts after terribly long time... any idea what could be the problem?

[Xulfiqar]

check the pump cold start device - on the 3C its in front - its a spring loaded contraption that rotates with the movement of a plunger, It may have jammed stuck open or its severly retarding timing when hot, did you have anything done to your engine lately.

[farazarif]

Dear Xulfiqar,
Excellent post and very useful information,

I have a few questions regarding my 1991 Pajero 4D56 turbo intercooler (swb) and would appreciate if you could shed some light on these:

1. There has been no work done to the engine in my knowledge and it is generally running fine, I was facing poor fuel consumption and sluggish accelleration for which I used STP Fuel Injector treatment and both performance and consumption improved impressively, firstly could you advise on how often these treatments should be used on the vehicle and if excessive use is detrimental.
2. The clutch appears to be a bit weak, there is a slight shudder on gear changes at low speed when the engine is completely warm. Is this symptomatic of anything else or does it simply signify a worn clutch. What would you recommend to rectify this problem?
3. Engine starts first thing in the morning are cumbersome unless I use the heater 2 to 3 times, does this mean that the glow plugs need to be replaced and how can I check whether they are working efficiently or not. An electrician checked the current to the glowplugs using a simple tester and declared that the current is fine, while I believe that the current may be okay, I don't think that the flow current necessarily means that the glowplugs are okay. Please share some insights on this.
4. This is the second Pajero I have owned and a while ago I owned the Gen 1 (1985) also a swb with a 2.3 4D55T engine, however the acceleration of my current Gen2 seems a lot less than my ex-Gen1. Some friends have suggested this is because the Gen 2 is a lot heavier than the Gen 1 while others simply say that I might be mistaken. What are potentially the reasons for relatively sluggish acceleration or what would you suggest I have checked / replaced.

Looking forward to your inputs, thanks,
Faraz.

[ansarghani]

check the pump cold start device - on the 3C its in front - its a spring loaded contraption that rotates with the movement of a plunger, It may have jammed stuck open or its severly retarding timing when hot, did you have anything done to your engine lately.

I haven't done any work on the engine for quite some time. perhaps this problem appeared after i have installed AC in my car...

i am attaching a couple of pics (downloaded from internet), can you please tell me where that cold start device is located? How it can be fixed if it is jammed?

Best regards,

[alisiddiq]

@Xulfiqar
I have a problem to discuss with you. I have 3C-turbo in my car. It starts in a jiffy in the morning after few seconds of heater. It also started in the same manner even in early mornings back in December/January. Now the problem i am facing is when the engine become hot it starts after terribly long time... any idea what could be the problem?

Check your battery...i had a similar problem with my diesel car.

[Dani80pk]

Needless to mention here that diesel died in Pakistan due to the dumbness of our mechanics who don't know jack about any refined diesel engine. I myself own a Nissan Sunny 2001 with CD20 engine, which was almost ruined by a road-shop diesel lab. After months of research and tips of zulfiqar bhai (when he was here at Karachi some time back), I was able to get close to where it was when I bought that car. Despite it is NA engine, still it has potential to outperform any car when comes to long running. I witnessed the power of engine in my recent trip to Multan where it does remarkably well (19km/l with A/c).

[Xulfiqar]

in the first picture there is a thick spring which is covered in oil - thats the cold start device, it is pushed forward by a plunger which is connected to the coolant lines. When cold the CSD does not operate and remains seated where it is - when hot - the CSD (aka thermal advance) plunger extends and rotates the lever which retards timing to normal.

TO check wedge a screwdriver shaft on the curved lip and rotate it - it will only rotate one side, it should cause the engine to go quiet. And check if the wax pellet plunger is working - if not remove and derust it - get it working

[xiaochun3612]

I am not sure about unit (it must have been PSI).

Please confirm if 220 PSI is ok for toyota 2C?

Also i started using zic 5000 CI4 standard oil since last 1.5 year and i have observed that after start up the oil light takes more time than usual to turn off.

Car pick is way good and after using no smoke of Liqui moly and running is ever smooth along with idle nothing abnormal.

Buying RS Gold In Runescape

[mani2020]

I simply dont understand that how can someone just out of his behind determine that the diesel engine is dead because of back blow...

Did they check compression? (They wont even have a diesel tester)
Was a proper vent check done? Maybe its restricted
Did they check the valve clearances? Can cause noisy intake and blow like crazy (cylinders not filling with full air and hence no compression load on the rings)
Did they actually check the timing..(forces the rings to expand on the power stroke sealing it at TDC)

Diesel engines will last for at least 400,000 kms easily without breaking a sweat..

I simply cant fathom the fact - even dealerships in Pakistan lack the diesel compression tester - and just rely on the musings of an old **** of a diesel mechanic that the engine is dead.. And customers fall for it. - I wouldve made them sweat for their money before they hand me some crap like that

Lol we have mechanics here who just know how to make money ,last time i went to mechanic after my car engine reduced engine oil. and he said my engine is dead because the rings have gone weak and i need to spend 25k rupees , but heck my engine has just gone through 39000kms at that time and there was no smoke of any kind coming out

I need help if you can also guide me by the way my engine is petrol/cng not diesel,currently gone through 39300 km,

[ansarghani]

Check your battery...i had a similar problem with my diesel car.

i have replaced the battery last year, expecting least any problem form it. anyway will check it too.
thanks!

[ansarghani]

in the first picture there is a thick spring which is covered in oil - thats the cold start device, it is pushed forward by a plunger which is connected to the coolant lines. When cold the CSD does not operate and remains seated where it is - when hot - the CSD (aka thermal advance) plunger extends and rotates the lever which retards timing to normal.

TO check wedge a screwdriver shaft on the curved lip and rotate it - it will only rotate one side, it should cause the engine to go quiet. And check if the wax pellet plunger is working - if not remove and derust it - get it working

i will surely check it.
Thank you so much!

[farazarif]

Dear Xulfiqar,
Kindly shed some light on my queries when you get a chance,
Thanks.

[levin]

@X

how is yr *** better than jennifer Lopez?. she spend a lot of bucks on hers, what did u do?

[Xulfiqar]

Dear Xulfiqar,
Excellent post and very useful information,

I have a few questions regarding my 1991 Pajero 4D56 turbo intercooler (swb) and would appreciate if you could shed some light on these:[LIST=1]
[*]There has been no work done to the engine in my knowledge and it is generally running fine, I was facing poor fuel consumption and sluggish accelleration for which I used STP Fuel Injector treatment and both performance and consumption improved impressively, firstly could you advise on how often these treatments should be used on the vehicle and if excessive use is detrimental.
[*]The clutch appears to be a bit weak, there is a slight shudder on gear changes at low speed when the engine is completely warm. Is this symptomatic of anything else or does it simply signify a worn clutch. What would you recommend to rectify this problem?
[*]Engine starts first thing in the morning are cumbersome unless I use the heater 2 to 3 times, does this mean that the glow plugs need to be replaced and how can I check whether they are working efficiently or not. An electrician checked the current to the glowplugs using a simple tester and declared that the current is fine, while I believe that the current may be okay, I don't think that the flow current necessarily means that the glowplugs are okay. Please share some insights on this.
Also related to cold starts, there was a lot of whitish smoke on cold starts after I added diluted coolant to the radiator, while the smoke has now subsided, is this normal?
[*]This is the second Pajero I have owned and a while ago I owned the Gen 1 (1985) also a swb with a 2.3 4D55T engine, however the acceleration of my current Gen2 seems a lot less than my ex-Gen1. Some friends have suggested this is because the Gen 2 is a lot heavier than the Gen 1 while others simply say that I might be mistaken. What are potentially the reasons for relatively sluggish acceleration or what would you suggest I have checked / replaced.
[/LIST]Looking forward to your inputs, thanks,
Faraz.

Your problem seems to be retarded injection timing - whitish smoke is unburnt diesel fuel coming out the exhaust. Adjust the pump timing to proper specs, your starting issue will also solve itself once the pump comes to proper timing spec.

For acceleration I would give the whole airpath a good cleaning, disable the EGR and then up the fuelling through the LDA on the pump, your gen2 Pajero should pick up quite aggresively when it comes onto boost

[ansarghani]

@Xulfiqar
I had this whitish smoke problem with my 3C engine last year. The mechanic removed the pipe between the turbo and the intake/inlet pipe, it was throwing plenty of engine oil which was causing the whitish smoke.
Do you think the problem Mr. Faraz is facing could be due to leaked turbo?

[farazarif]

@ Xulfiqar,
Thank you so much for the advice, it's really great having a friendly and skilled person like you here on Pakwheels who takes out the time to help people, it's always a pleasure reading your posts and I think it's a real pitty you stopped dealing with private customers at your workshop, it would have been a pleasure to have your advice implemented under your supervision.
Once again thank you.

@ansarghani
Thank you for identifying the possible issue with the turbo, the turbo seems to spool fine, at least it sounds like it spools fine but following your advice I will definately have it checked out.

[Xulfiqar]

ghani sb,

The hard start and white smoke (diesel smell) is retarded timing, hard start with no kind of smoke - but a bluish white puff = oil leaks (usually valve seals) - piece of cake to renew in an IDI engine. And the pipe you mention is the crankcase breather pipe - The oil helps to lubricate the valve stems as the diesel intake manifold is truly a dry manifold. (usual cause of high oil from that port is bad timing, bad valve clearances and choked air filter) - remember - some oil inside it is good - running it dry will reduce valve life in half.

faraz
your welcome, I stopped because the complications of such a business in Pakistan are stupendous - (bad attitude, chauffer fraud, fake currency, bounced cheques, fake pay order, stolen parts etc. etc) and the good customers are too far apart, and for me good customers mean their cars dont visit the shop often.

[ansarghani]

ghani sb,

The hard start and white smoke (diesel smell) is retarded timing, hard start with no kind of smoke - but a bluish white puff = oil leaks (usually valve seals) - piece of cake to renew in an IDI engine. And the pipe you mention is the crankcase breather pipe - The oil helps to lubricate the valve stems as the diesel intake manifold is truly a dry manifold. (usual cause of high oil from that port is bad timing, bad valve clearances and choked air filter) - remember - some oil inside it is good - running it dry will reduce valve life in half.

faraz
your welcome, I stopped because the complications of such a business in Pakistan are stupendous - (bad attitude, chauffer fraud, fake currency, bounced cheques, fake pay order, stolen parts etc. etc) and the good customers are too far apart, and for me good customers mean their cars dont visit the shop often.

@Xulfiqar bhai
I was referring to this pipe...