Diesel engine health

[dogarz]

My friend! when I say High Sulphur Content, it means BAD Diesel. You are stating the contrary.

you are correct, attock's diesel is GOOD, the drivers' of 2 HINO 2.5 ton water bowsers reported to get 4 round trips + 1 way [ approx 19 kms extra ] extra for every 100 liters filed from attock. Compared to 100 liters from PSO or Shell dispensers in Rawalpindi for 4 round trips only.

ironically Attock fuel is available only over Highways in SINDH

[capsat]

exactly, its other way around and efficiency is attributed to ' high sulphur adulteration at attock & hascol pumps' by the PSO & Shell pumps which causes damage to engine & diesel pump in longer run.

My friend! when I say High Sulphur Content, it means BAD Diesel. You are stating the contrary.

[saboor73]

exactly, its other way around and efficiency is attributed to ' high sulphur adulteration at attock & hascol pumps' by the PSO & Shell pumps which causes damage to engine & diesel pump in longer run.

High sulphur means better lubrication old mechanic diesel injection pump high sulphur is bad for direct injection diesel engines onlu

[dogarz]

exactly, its other way around and efficiency is attributed to ' high sulphur adulteration at attock & hascol pumps' by the PSO & Shell pumps which causes damage to engine & diesel pump in longer run.

So what is the bottom line? Attock Diesel is bad in the long run? I have an Attock pump close to my house and I get my car filled up from there quite frequently and conveniently. I need a solid answer to review my filling pattern...

[sufian_noshad]

So what is the bottom line? Attock Diesel is bad in the long run? I have an Attock pump close to my house and I get my car filled up from there quite frequently and conveniently. I need a solid answer to review my filling pattern...

salam dogar sb
i would not want to be involved in a debate but i will tell you something in last 13 years of my driving life i have driven 2 different cars(diesels) to over half a million miles. what you have to do is observe if the location you are getting fuel from is selling diesel in large volumes to the likes of commercial operators(trucks, buses, coasters, vans, tractors and others) if that is the case buy from there. now another location in the middle of a city where most of the cars refilling are either on cng and petrol does have diesel fuel available, this location would not be selling much diesel fuel which means its not getting topped up as often as the first location. now diesel if sitting around would absorb moisture and would become adulturated, it does that by nature. its not the sulphur which is your enemy its adulturated fuel which is. sulphur is there to lubricate and its tge byproduct of it which is harmful and that comes out of exhaust.
solution is fill up from a busy location which sells more and does not let fuel sit around in the storage. your vehicle would come with a water filter in the fuelling system which catches any moisture before it ends up in thr combustion cycle. if it does not have one, get one installed.
i have got workshop manuals for my cars and i dnt go to the poor roadside mechanics, i have mostly worked on my cars myself or if had something done its according to factory specs under my supervision. so i would advise you to get a workshop manual for your car get the specs up to factory standard. dnt worry about the fuel as its not the fuel which causes problems
i hope i have explained it well enough if not just ask

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[Xulfiqar]

salam dogar sb
i would not want to be involved in a debate but i will tell you something in last 13 years of my driving life i have driven 2 different cars(diesels) to over half a million miles. what you have to do is observe if the location you are getting fuel from is selling diesel in large volumes to the likes of commercial operators(trucks, buses, coasters, vans, tractors and others) if that is the case buy from there. now another location in the middle of a city where most of the cars refilling are either on cng and petrol does have diesel fuel available, this location would not be selling much diesel fuel which means its not getting topped up as often as the first location. now diesel if sitting around would absorb moisture and would become adulturated, it does that by nature. its not the sulphur which is your enemy its adulturated fuel which is. sulphur is there to lubricate and its tge byproduct of it which is harmful and that comes out of exhaust.
solution is fill up from a busy location which sells more and does not let fuel sit around in the storage. your vehicle would come with a water filter in the fuelling system which catches any moisture before it ends up in thr combustion cycle. if it does not have one, get one installed.
i have got workshop manuals for my cars and i dnt go to the poor roadside mechanics, i have mostly worked on my cars myself or if had something done its according to factory specs under my supervision. so i would advise you to get a workshop manual for your car get the specs up to factory standard. dnt worry about the fuel as its not the fuel which causes problems
i hope i have explained it well enough if not just ask

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Even in USA I go to the highway truck stops and fill up there, one of the few reasons is that the fuel is fresh. There are other few too. which are..

1 - excellent coffee for a dollar only
2 - amazingly fresh donuts for really cheap.
3 - I can fill up 75 litres in 60 seconds.
4 - they are priced right too.

Filling up from a weird no go location that gets a diesel tanker once every 6 months - is a sure fire way to kill your injection system.

[dogarz]

Thank you very much for your detailed and informative response Sir. You have not only clarified my confusion about the sulphur content in diesel but have also given valuable advice for maintenance. I try to get things done as close to factory specs as possible. Really appreciate your input.

The Attock petroleum fuel station I go to is situated on a busy highway in suburbs of Lahore where I reside. Both diesel dispensers are normally occupied by Long Vehicles most of the times and I have to wait. Will find out more about top up frequencies of their diesel storage levels. Also will immediately stop the other two "Top" filling stations in city center where there is hardly a diesel vehicle to be seen filling. This is a really valuable tip. Much appreciated!

salam dogar sb
i would not want to be involved in a debate but i will tell you something in last 13 years of my driving life i have driven 2 different cars(diesels) to over half a million miles. what you have to do is observe if the location you are getting fuel from is selling diesel in large volumes to the likes of commercial operators(trucks, buses, coasters, vans, tractors and others) if that is the case buy from there. now another location in the middle of a city where most of the cars refilling are either on cng and petrol does have diesel fuel available, this location would not be selling much diesel fuel which means its not getting topped up as often as the first location. now diesel if sitting around would absorb moisture and would become adulturated, it does that by nature. its not the sulphur which is your enemy its adulturated fuel which is. sulphur is there to lubricate and its tge byproduct of it which is harmful and that comes out of exhaust.
solution is fill up from a busy location which sells more and does not let fuel sit around in the storage. your vehicle would come with a water filter in the fuelling system which catches any moisture before it ends up in thr combustion cycle. if it does not have one, get one installed.
i have got workshop manuals for my cars and i dnt go to the poor roadside mechanics, i have mostly worked on my cars myself or if had something done its according to factory specs under my supervision. so i would advise you to get a workshop manual for your car get the specs up to factory standard. dnt worry about the fuel as its not the fuel which causes problems
i hope i have explained it well enough if not just ask

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[capsat]

Sufian saheb have explained it so well,. Stay safe drive safe Dogar saheb.

some years back over this forum i shared idea of Diesel fuel top up over the same lines., The founder Hanif Bhatti saheb adopted and his DARLING [ Pajero ] started producing better fuel economy.

Thank you Sufian saheb for endorsing the fuel filling pattern.

So what is the bottom line? Attock Diesel is bad in the long run? I have an Attock pump close to my house and I get my car filled up from there quite frequently and conveniently. I need a solid answer to review my filling pattern...

[ali_ak]

salam dogar sb
i would not want to be involved in a debate but i will tell you something in last 13 years of my driving life i have driven 2 different cars(diesels) to over half a million miles. what you have to do is observe if the location you are getting fuel from is selling diesel in large volumes to the likes of commercial operators(trucks, buses, coasters, vans, tractors and others) if that is the case buy from there. now another location in the middle of a city where most of the cars refilling are either on cng and petrol does have diesel fuel available, this location would not be selling much diesel fuel which means its not getting topped up as often as the first location. now diesel if sitting around would absorb moisture and would become adulturated, it does that by nature. its not the sulphur which is your enemy its adulturated fuel which is. sulphur is there to lubricate and its tge byproduct of it which is harmful and that comes out of exhaust.
solution is fill up from a busy location which sells more and does not let fuel sit around in the storage. your vehicle would come with a water filter in the fuelling system which catches any moisture before it ends up in thr combustion cycle. if it does not have one, get one installed.
i have got workshop manuals for my cars and i dnt go to the poor roadside mechanics, i have mostly worked on my cars myself or if had something done its according to factory specs under my supervision. so i would advise you to get a workshop manual for your car get the specs up to factory standard. dnt worry about the fuel as its not the fuel which causes problems
i hope i have explained it well enough if not just ask

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Very nice info shared.

I dont have any highway nearby, what Top UP frequency am I looking at??

I have 1 PSO pump, normally well reputed, most of the time i am 1st or 2nd in line. It is frequented by few Govt Buses and mostly Generator fuel.

Another 1 is a Total pump on a noisy road, there are many buses, truck and wagons on that road but i am not sure if they use that filling station.

Will need to ask pump staff for top up frequency.

Regards

[HamzahF]

@ Xulfiqar and others. I need help with a ticking sound on my 1HD-T engine that surfaced after a pump job. It seems to be linked to timing advance/retard whereas i also know that clearances on all my exhaust valves are tight. Its quite strange that no shop here in Lahore that i have been to seems to know anything about proper injection timing tools and just do the job by ear. Any leads on where to get this done will be appreciated. Also, can anyone explain what the timer piston does, that lies below the ACSD? I get we can adjust timing by tilting the pump body then what is this for?

[Dongskie]

@ Xulfiqar and others. I need help with a ticking sound on my 1HD-T engine that surfaced after a pump job. It seems to be linked to timing advance/retard whereas i also know that clearances on all my exhaust valves are tight. Its quite strange that no shop here in Lahore that i have been to seems to know anything about proper injection timing tools and just do the job by ear. Any leads on where to get this done will be appreciated.

Also, can anyone explain what the timer piston does, that lies below the ACSD?

IF you are referring to the ACSD itself It advances the timing by a few millimeter and ups the throttle too thus increases fuel fee d during cold start. The ACSD is water temperature dependent and contracts when cold and expands when hot, so when cold it sets the timing to advance and the throttle up a little. When the engine begins to warm up the water expands and pushes the ACSD piston out thus releasing the timing advance and throttles back down.

I get we can adjust timing by tilting the pump body then what is this for?

Yes you can do that too but the timing differences can be too big and it would be difficult to achieve minute changes

[HamzahF]

IF you are referring to the ACSD itself It advances the timing by a few millimeter and ups the throttle too thus increases fuel fee d during cold start. The ACSD is water temperature dependent and contracts when cold and expands when hot, so when cold it sets the timing to advance and the throttle up a little. When the engine begins to warm up the water expands and pushes the ACSD piston out thus releasing the timing advance and throttles back down.

Yes you can do that too but the timing differences can be too big and it would be difficult to achieve minute changes

@dongskie can you explain how to adjust or retard the timing with this screw i.e. effect of clockwise or anticlockwise movement. Also, how sensitive is it?

[Dongskie]

@Dongskie can you explain how to adjust or retard the timing with this screw i.e. effect of clockwise or anticlockwise movement. Also, how sensitive is it?

I don't suggest doing it unless otherwise the timing is already off, too retard or too advanced and a Pump expert should do this with timing gauges.

It is very sensitive, a few millimiter of movement makes a huge difference.

As for the CSD I haven't fiddled with mine yet so I can tell for sure.

But just to let you know, there are 2 nuts holding the pump in place on the engine mounting plate, usually 14mm or 17mm.

And there is 1 14mm bolt behind and under the pump that holds it in place, this bolt tightens an angled plate that holds the pump to the engine block, you have to loosen this too if you need to adjust your timing.

Tilting the pump towards and closer to the engine makes it ADVANCE

Tilting the pump away from the engine DELAYS its timing.

Delaying will eliminate some ratchety noise and some power loss and give off some smoke.

Advancing too much will make it noisier, less smoke, easier to start and some other fatal results in the long run

So still I suggest you take it to the Pump expert with the proper tools.

[waqasjamil]

I want to ask that if the pump timing adjustment with dial guage requires genuine engine and original gaskets and stock rings/piatons?
Is it true? One diesel lab told that factory settings is for genuine factory engine...

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[ali_ak]

I want to ask that if the pump timing adjustment with dial guage requires genuine engine and original gaskets and stock rings/piatons?
Is it true? One diesel lab told that factory settings is for genuine factory engine...

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Ask that lab guy if he has ever done "factory settings" on a genuine engine??

adjust every thing (nozzles break pressure, timing etc) as per the specs.

[HamzahF]

I want to ask that if the pump timing adjustment with dial guage requires genuine engine and original gaskets and stock rings/piatons?
Is it true? One diesel lab told that factory settings is for genuine factory engine...

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This lab guy is an a*****e.

[HamzahF]

Ask that lab guy if he has ever done "factory settings" on a genuine engine??

adjust every thing (nozzles break pressure, timing etc) as per the specs.

Question is, is there any lab where one can get a proper timing, pre-lift and stroke adjust, pressure test job etc?

[Xulfiqar]

Question is, is there any lab where one can get a proper timing, pre-lift and stroke adjust, pressure test job etc?

.

That depends if your name is "babloo shahzada" or "marco polo"

one will find it the other wont.

I found two in Karachi, one recently closed shop for this (DPS) - the other one moved out of the country.

[HamzahF]

@ Xulfiqar I'm buying a set myself for some PKR 30k. A bit of 'sir pe khara hona' combined with use of these implements and i think i should have a good baseline to start off of. I had a question though, i've had the crack pressure upped to about 210kg/cm2 i.e. about 20 units above the upper limit specified in the factory manual. I understand this would call for an advance in the injection timing too. Will it need to be bumped up correspondingly beyond the upper facotry limit or shall i stay within the defined limit?

[waqasjamil]

This lab guy is an a*****e.

Bro You didnt understand my question.. I asked about diesel engine timing of injection pump calibration through dial guage.

Please advise, Does it hold true if the engine is overhauled and rings, pistons and gasket size is NOT of stock size.?

One of the PW members posted this as below:
Originally Posted by spectra
u need a dial gauge to time a diesel engine properly, but your engine internals/compression and gaskets must be original and in good health. otherwise stock timing might make things even worse.