Engine Oil Bonanza-Lancer

hasboo (hasboo) 2012-09-10 15:57:16 +0500 #1

Symptoms :

Radiator water top up (tap water) daily after every 20-30km drive : 100-150ml
Radiator cap & Extra water bottle : Some chocklate oily stuff daily even after cleaning.
Exhaust : Smoke on CNG/Petrol at starting & mostly when moving from idle to 1st gear. water dropping cylincer on both cng/petrol. No Greese/oil/black smokish carbon stuff in cylinder uptil now. Changed cylincer/muffler/dholki wat ever its called 800km ago.
Engine Oil : Using Caltex GTX 20-50. Decreasing engine oil, topup required of 1 litre after every 500km.No oil leakage observed in garage.
Some observations : NO oil reduces for initial 300km (after 1litre top up) steep decrease afterwards when oil color changes a bit, with some strange exhaust smell observed (in CNG) when moving from idling to 1st gear. or usually when parking back at home.
Engine Sound : Soundless, excellent pick, went upto 110km/hr in khi roads (morning-underpasses), havent tested speed over that due to traffic condts. Like the sound of lancer.(H)

Problem : Please advise is this full head job or some valve job? where's engine oil going? what could be the cost of repair. If possible suggest not costly solution.

CAR details : Mitsubishi Lancer, 4g13 eng, type c61 manual tx and (model 88-91, 3rd Generadtion Sedan) oil change interval 4000km, new spark plugs wires, Average Mileage : 13.5 km/kg CNG local w/o AC, ODO : 270K- Full Engine Overhauled around 8 years ago, corolla xli radiator (retrofit-heating up issue on AC- so removed the original stuff), No hanky panky sound in Transmission, drive is very smooth.

Awaiting Responses !!!

margallar (margallar) 2012-09-11 03:35:20 +0500 #2

i smell a bad gasket

fahadwizz (fahadwizz) 2012-09-11 09:45:01 +0500 #3

Seems like you have a head gasket leak. Weather you need a head job or not is very difficult to tell at this time. Just open up the head and check it out. Since you already have oil n water mixing u'll have to open it up anyways. Compression test would be useless at this time because of the leaking hg. Water from silencer means water is entering into combustion chamber. You have all the classic symptoms of a blown hg.

Consider your self lucky that the car is still running. Take it to the mechanic asap so that you don't have to tow it.

hasboo (hasboo) 2012-09-11 10:45:12 +0500 #4

by water from silecncer, I meant to say that after tuning it started giving water n mileage improved,
if its head gaskit job, whats the approx cost ?

hasboo (hasboo) 2012-09-11 17:08:49 +0500 #5

I will try to post pics of water bucket soaked in chocklate and radiator cap tomrw hopefuly also wid cylincer for more idea. showed the car to one mechanic got following suggestions :

option-1
Head job withgaskit, ring, valve n seal, packigs n leth machine job costing 10k to 15k.

option-2
remove all engine oil as I had havoline filled in before castrol GTX and later it got mixed as topup was wid havoline.

option-3
use liqui moli oil saver for the time being n check after 500km to 600km....

Can ANY one suggest which option to go for???

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2012-09-11 17:17:01 +0500 #6

if you have oil and water mixing up, your head gasket is compromised or the head was not tightened correctly, mitsubishi use allen socket cylinder head bolts and require a bit socket adapter to tighten, most mechanics tighten with allen key which flexes too much and never gets to correct torque.

use a film of rolls royce hylomar on the oil pressure gallery seal and the fire rings on the headgasket. Its very tacky and ensures a good seal. Be absolutely sure that the cooling passages are very clean and rust free, then install thermostat valve and fill with proper coolant. Now check.

btw never drain your old coolant to the ground like most mechanics do, collect it in a tub and reuse it - and its actually poisonous to the ground.

hasboo (hasboo) 2012-09-11 18:47:00 +0500 #7

thanks bro for excellent comments. I'd def. go for it. Im actually having trouble finding the owner manual for the car.. have searched it n no success. only colt n gallant for 991-96 model available. mine's 3rd generation..

ur right abt coolant. infact v shudnt dump oil on the ground as well.

will also try to collect the radiator water in white tub to see how much oil with water, today mechanic said oil not mixing much coz water not WHITE!? but chocklate oil stuff is there... will post pics inshallah tomorw for more updates.

fahadwizz (fahadwizz) 2012-09-15 05:57:54 +0500 #8

Even a little bit of mixing is enough ... Make sure you get the job done from a really good mechanic. As Xulfiqar mentioned these can get very tricky. Bolts have to tighten to spec , over and under tightening always causes problems.

hasboo (hasboo) 2012-09-16 17:28:23 +0500 #9

These pics are of my exhaust. when i tried to check for presence of oil I didnt find any oil/greasy stuff in cylincer

This is oil pan stick. notice that below letter MAX there is a line and above MIN there is a line. After 500-700KM oil drops to MIN LINE. after 1 Litre Top up it touches above line. I dont know how much OIL is inside when oil touches line with MIN mark. one mechnic said you have 2 Litre at that tym as well. Can any one confirm ??

This is my radiator picture after topping up water and let some water drip off (engine closed). Notice you can see the water clear and as well the NALI of the radiator clearly

This is my water bottle before top up. notice oily cholckate n greasy stuff

These two pics: I had added water but STOPPED when it was full. Notice that doty oily thing. its was brown not white. Looks white due to mobile light.

When I opened radiator cover before TOPUP i checked for greasy stuff. notice radiator cap as well as water bottle pipe in brown

After taking to few other mechanics, I have reached to this conclusion :

I need to stop leakage to radiotor n exhaust .

for radiator (head gaskit) i need head job costing me 4-5k. mechnic said some valve n seals n timings n few other things to be chnaged

BUT as per comments of Xulfiqar I am unable to find some one to understand whats meant to do correctly. I fear even after this job engine will start giving the same results very soon. I also checked its manual from mivec website. Its a mess!!!!

for exhaust i have temp. used Liqui Moly OIL smoke stop from Alhamd autos near mukka chowk, costed 540RS. I have already taken my oil status in pics after the addition lets c what hapens after few days.

I have also removed my both headlights btw my self for chrome work will post pics in other topic for a step guide DIY

Kindly if any one can suggest me for hgasket problem from where i shud get mitusbishi recommended material. i'd be willing to puchase it to avoid same job rework????

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2012-09-16 21:10:35 +0500 #10

that looks like rust sludge, not oil - clean the system out then recheck. Deoil first then citric acid flush - I can bet you will see an entire suzuki load of rust when you flush out.

The head tightening bit I am talking about is very commonly available at tool stores. Its an allen key embedded in a socket, It does not flex like the L shaped key.

hasboo (hasboo) 2012-09-17 09:35:29 +0500 #11

What are these? De oil ? Usually radiator wales flush out with some yellow acid and thats its. is there any other action required? plz guide me if so.

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2012-09-17 11:17:23 +0500 #12

de-oil means to clean out any residual oil in the system if ever the engine suffered oil water mix. Use carpet cleaning soap gel that is sold in cheap bottles. I put up many posts describing the procedure.

Sajjadabdi (Sajjadabdi) 2012-09-22 09:24:31 +0500 #13

Dear I have Toyota fielder x which has developed transmission problem. The transmission oil was charged late due to which the car was picking itself so I change transmission zic AtF-III which give me a little improvement but after running about 170 kilometre something bad happened. Now if gears are not working even when I have reverse gear it moves forward also in N it moves forward. Anybody has any idea what may be the cause this problem and where should I take my car for proper diagnose in Islamabad . My email is Sajjad.abdi@gmail.com and Mobil number is 03337823528. I will appreciate if somebody could help me in the matter.

hasboo (hasboo) 2012-09-30 14:52:10 +0500 #14

A quick update :

radiatr is not givning water to engine. whenever i park my car after 10- 15 min drive and put off ignition water starts dropping from the pipe leaving the water bottle. it gives off quite an amount of water out and its not storing in water bottle as it should be. radiator cap seams to be fine.

Also, one more thing when i purchased the car the used volvoline 20w-50 with out engine flush as previous owner was using casyrol gtx white wala dabba. hence when oil starts decreasing i used castrol gtx 20w50 to topup (dont know api gradings of both at that time).

Thirdly when i got the vehicle it had mehran dholki at the back (yup thats right) without any smoke and car used to run like sports bom boom but it still reduced engine oil.
now with genuine cyliner configuration as in lancers mostly, its gives smoke on hard acceleration i can say its white or blue n show more smoke when going up some bridge.

these are few more infos i wanted to add up to have some advice from seniors before gng for overhaul if they suggest

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2012-09-30 14:58:36 +0500 #15

firstly - resolve the overflow pipe issue, if its leaking liquid then the radiator wont be able to suck water back as it will suck air from the leak - and you would see the radiator as empty.

secondly - find a good exhaust fabricator, ask him to make a genuine style muffler for your car, its quite large and sits sideways. A good hand made muffler with glass wool and proper chambers will cost about Rs 4000/- atleast.

hasboo (hasboo) 2012-09-30 14:59:47 +0500 #16

also there is not water bubble in dip stick i have double checked that but i have notices that oil is not thick when engine cold or after one day.

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2012-09-30 15:05:22 +0500 #17

Firstly check the linkage alignment at the transmission selector and also make sure the electrical switch is also correctly aligned. And the most important bit, Toyota T-4 fluid that is used in your car is formulated for the partial lockup feature that your transmission has, regular DX3 fluid does not have that and can break down. That is why you need proper recommended fluid in your transmission. Lastly your car may have a bad transmission. it should not move forward with selector in R (detent 2) at the transmission.

hasboo (hasboo) 2012-09-30 15:05:30 +0500 #18

thats right radiator is not sucking water back from bottle. also its a corola se radiator not small ones as in lancer. there is also a wire between radiator cap gaskit n metallic part.

i have got the muffler that sits in the center of both wheels at the back and turns the cylincer pipng to exhaust at the RHS.
Do u think i have to chnage it to better n larger hand made muffler??

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2012-09-30 15:38:00 +0500 #19

^^ remove that wire - its a rigged solution that never works. Only the rubber should seal both the cap and the valve of the radiator cap. This wire situation causes the system to suck air like I mentioned.

for the exhaust the original muffler was very large it had 3 chambers to deaden sound but was kind of free flowing too. In original setup this Lancer had a slight rasp at the exhaust pipe at high rpm.

Proverbial_Slang (Proverbial_Slang) 2012-10-03 05:32:23 +0500 #20

@OP,

Chnage the head gasket (face the head just to make sure). Get the radiator washed properly; the radiator cap should be changed and the neck of the radiator (where the radiator cap sits) should be absolutely even.

Before you do all that, get compression testing done for each cylinder.