EXPERTS Pl. MERC 1996 W202 MAINTENANCE ADVICE/HELP

[abari]

Thanks Xulfiqar.
INH people are educated professionals and use genuine replacements though they charge good amount but that is value for money.

Regarding MB star it is still OE and hope will not be stolen.

As you see lights need cleaning but don,t know how and with what material as they made with glass not plastic. Can you suggest somethng?

Thanks.

[abari]

Today it was a cold and car did not start with 5-6 self ignitions although I pumped the throttle padel. But then I tried as a last change the car did start but with very long self.

1. What could be the reason?
2. How it can be avoided next morning?
3. Is there any other method to apply when the vehicle is cold?

Need help, Please.

Thanks.

[imran2d]

Xulfiqar bhai, I have Ssangyong Rexton RX320(Gasoline) 2004 model, it has inline 6 cylinder engine the same can be seen in MB E320 1997 or ealier models,

The automatic Transmission is sourced from BTR automotive Australia upto 2004 model and later models have MB transmission,service people say that BTR gear box will have trouble after 100,000 kms and mine has crossed 100,000kms but I am always worried about it, I studied that this gear box was also used by Ford and some other manufacturers. Do you have any idea on this,though it is very nice transmission but the life of clutches and bands is not much so it will wear out as they say, pls., put some light on this.

[Xulfiqar]

that transmission is prone to wear because of its fill for life thing, just like the filled for life MB transmissions, a good practice used by workshops now is to change the fluid and filter every 50,000 kms.

[imran2d]

If my Transmission does not show any problem then I will keep changing oil and filter every 30,000 kms also I got some usefull tips from internet and I am following those now.

I am pasting the link here for other readers if they want to take care of their car transmission.

(Dear Reader pls., click the link and go through it with a cup of tea/coffee)

Ten Tips to Ensure a Healthy Transmission

[abari]

Today car started without any trouble in first try.

The raeson for not starting as I understand was that I parked the car on ramp on sturday for some time and then shifted to poarch and then it remained parked there till monday morning and did not start as I mentioned above.

To my observation the fuel might have gone back to the tank and took long time to come back when I tried to start it. This is my observation, may be wrong but experts can guide and comment.

Transmission points gived in the link posted by Imran are informative and good.

BTW Imran where do you live in SKP?

Regards.

[imran2d]

Let Mr.Xulfiqar explain Cold start checks, Thanks Abari If you liked the link above, I live near Qasry Sultan Shadi hall in SKP but I work abroad.

[imran2d]

Let Mr.Xulfiqar explain Cold start checks, Thanks Abari If you liked the link above, I live near Qasry Sultan Shadi hall in SKP but I work abroad.

(Wrongly Repeated)

[syncview]

brush + warm water/soap solution

updates, too many of them:

Brakes:

Caliper kits / disc pads were already changed, got a new MC, brake pipes - bled using the pump and bleed method everything was OK except the ABS part.
ABS problem has now been resolved also check PM

Cooling system:

I flushed using the water hose method, installed everything back and before pouring in the coolant i thought it would be a good idea to check the water body for any noises and upon using a stethoscope it feels like its not going to live much long.. so I poured in some distilled water and called it a day! Will get a new waterbody soon and fill in with coolant. Also got a used thermostat housing complete with the sensors and the thermostat itself, looked just like new and has been fitted on and working great.

New questions:

1 - Is it necessary to have the original AC compressor for the temperature controls to work properly in a W202?

2 - The clockspring / steering angle sensor on my car was bad, I replaced it with a perfectly working one, SRS light is still on, what to check?

[Xulfiqar]

updates, too many of them:

Brakes:

Caliper kits / disc pads were already changed, got a new MC, brake pipes - bled using the pump and bleed method everything was OK except the ABS part.
ABS problem has now been resolved also check PM

Cooling system:

I flushed using the water hose method, installed everything back and before pouring in the coolant i thought it would be a good idea to check the water body for any noises and upon using a stethoscope it feels like its not going to live much long.. so I poured in some distilled water and called it a day! Will get a new waterbody soon and fill in with coolant. Also got a used thermostat housing complete with the sensors and the thermostat itself, looked just like new and has been fitted on and working great.

New questions:

1 - Is it necessary to have the original AC compressor for the temperature controls to work properly in a W202?

2 - The clockspring / steering angle sensor on my car was bad, I replaced it with a perfectly working one, SRS light is still on, what to check?

The reason for water pump failure on a mercedes engine is due to using wrong coolant, the original mercedes coolant aka Valvoline Zerex G-05 actually feels like oil, it lubricates the oil pump and heater valve too.

The original mercedes compressor (Denso) has an rpm sensor that the HVAC control takes reading from, it will shuf off the compressor if slip is detected. So if your system is running with an aftermarket compressor with no rpm sensor then its probably rigged, The vents should work when the HVAC is selected in different positions though.

The SRS problem can be scanned by someone who has the 38 pin connector and multiplexer or reader. It requires a reset if any work is done on the SRS system or if the OVP relay is going flaky.

[syncview]

Thanks will get it reset and update here..

Where is the OVP and what should be the ideal resistance value for the BERU plug cables? I mean how can I figure out if I should replace the plug wire or not, I've check them and all read from 2000 ohms to 2300 ohms.. :s

[Xulfiqar]

Thanks will get it reset and update here..

Where is the OVP and what should be the ideal resistance value for the BERU plug cables? I mean how can I figure out if I should replace the plug wire or not, I've check them and all read from 2000 ohms to 2300 ohms.. :s

The OVP relay would be in the relay junction box under the hood, its a tall relay with one or two 10A blade fuses on the top under a small lid. It does go flaky and causes much grief

The resistance of the cables is strange? do you have coils mounted to the right of the engine or on top of the plugs? Both versions exist.

[syncview]

The two ignition coils are mounted under the intake manifold.. it has the BERU plug wires with 2k ohms resistor..

Oh yes I got the OVP relay, will check it tonight

[syncview]

I've tried googling and what not, i cannot seem to find a good test for these cables, any idea?

[syncview]

The reason for water pump failure on a mercedes engine is due to using wrong coolant, the original mercedes coolant aka Valvoline Zerex G-05 actually feels like oil, it lubricates the oil pump and heater valve too.

The original mercedes compressor (Denso) has an rpm sensor that the HVAC control takes reading from, it will shuf off the compressor if slip is detected. So if your system is running with an aftermarket compressor with no rpm sensor then its probably rigged, The vents should work when the HVAC is selected in different positions though.

The SRS problem can be scanned by someone who has the 38 pin connector and multiplexer or reader. It requires a reset if any work is done on the SRS system or if the OVP relay is going flaky.

... so I literally ripped off the dashboard to check the wiring and boy it was MESSY.

I have corrected all the wiring, some of them needed replacing (Now i know how ******* hard it is to find heat shrinks/sleeves in lahore.).

replaced the duo valve, the old was bad, the solenoids were not even clicking when literally hammered.

the EVAP sensor is MISSING! its just NOT THERE! i've ordered and is on its way, will probably get it by tuesday.

corrected the compressor wiring although it is not the original, took a speed sensor out of a denso compressor and completed the speed sensor circuit, everything works dandy now. the compressor doesn't engage without the speed sensor and it has to facing the pulley. I have connected a corolla's evap sensor for the time being, which doesn't trip the compressor at all

I'm now having problems with the HVAC controls, cooling and heating works, but the flaps that are controlled by the switchover valve aren't working properly, for instance when the knob is moved to the 'DOWN ARROW' position, it doesn't blow air to the footwell. it keeps blowing from the front center vents.

I checked the y11 vacuum switchover valve manually (by giving 12v to each solenoid, mine has four and all are working / opening and closing the valves as they should).

Could it be the N19 unit being problematic?
this is the one i have:

the wiring from the switchover valve to the n19 is good, confirmed them all using the wiring diagrams.. what else should I check?

[Xulfiqar]

... so I literally ripped off the dashboard to check the wiring and boy it was MESSY.

I have corrected all the wiring, some of them needed replacing (Now i know how ******* hard it is to find heat shrinks/sleeves in lahore.).

replaced the duo valve, the old was bad, the solenoids were not even clicking when literally hammered.

the EVAP sensor is MISSING! its just NOT THERE! i've ordered and is on its way, will probably get it by tuesday.

corrected the compressor wiring although it is not the original, took a speed sensor out of a denso compressor and completed the speed sensor circuit, everything works dandy now. the compressor doesn't engage without the speed sensor and it has to facing the pulley. I have connected a corolla's evap sensor for the time being, which doesn't trip the compressor at all

I'm now having problems with the HVAC controls, cooling and heating works, but the flaps that are controlled by the switchover valve aren't working properly, for instance when the knob is moved to the 'DOWN ARROW' position, it doesn't blow air to the footwell. it keeps blowing from the front center vents.

I checked the y11 vacuum switchover valve manually (by giving 12v to each solenoid, mine has four and all are working / opening and closing the valves as they should).

Could it be the N19 unit being problematic?
this is the one i have:

the wiring from the switchover valve to the n19 is good, confirmed them all using the wiring diagrams.. what else should I check?

check that the N19 is actually putting out signal to the control valve panel, Also try working the temperature wheel, e.g. on a W124 on cold setting the lower vents do not blow, it was done by MB taking into consideration that hot air rises and cold air settles.