Finaly 5AFE Swapped in EE90

[saadzae92]

@ ahsanonline

The correct Part Number for the 5A-FE TPS should be:

TOYOTA
89452-22090

198500 l 3011
DENSO JAPAN

Thank you.

[Vaqas1]

since long i've suspected the TPS on my motor to be the wrong one. today got it confirmed. it only puts out 3.7volts at wot. cant set it further up or else IDL will stay open all the time. any idea where this sensor might've come from? i mean from which engine because this cant be from a 5AFE...

got to look for a replacement now....

Whats the part no? I can try and look what my TPS part no is.

You are checking volts or resistance?

[ahsanonline]

the sticker is ripped up on my sensor, only first set of numbers is visible. its a brown sticker.

i think the complete number may be this:

TOYOTA
89452-22090

what are your tps voltages/ resistance at idle and WOT? mine is 3.6volts/ 2.75kohm at WOT and 0.45kohm at idle.

[Vaqas1]

Mine varries.

I am also not sure if this is also causes variable rpm some time.

3.02kohm at WOT and 0.50 - 0.58kohm

I will let you know the part no and all.

[ahsanonline]

with those readings i suspect you have an open IDL contact even at fully closed throttle (infinite resistance). that can cause a varying idle condition...

[Vaqas1]

Hmm recently my brother changed the TB of his 4AFE. I today took the TB out of our junk section at home ( We got a lot of it) Checked the part no and its 89452-22090.

Than i tested tps of this tb. set the TPS to 0.50kohm at idle the wot goes to 3.55. now with my TPS wot will not go above 3.02 or max 3.05.

Seems this TPS is working better so i am gona try this one with my engine lets see whats the results

Not much work left in the car and i am getting bored now I need some new project to work on so might sell the car and buy some Diesel 99 or 98 and swap 7A :p.

[Xulfiqar]

If the idle switch does not close - the engine will hunt because the ECU does not go to idle mode.

[Vaqas1]

Well What i have learned and can be wrong but if i set the TPS as per factory settings than my idle dies to 500 and some time when its happy will stay around 700 :p.

So what I do is desi method that will be to turn on the engine than move the tps and where you think RPM is better as it goes up kohm go up the idle also goes up so around 1000 RPM i leave it. On cng its 900 :p.

Now if i test my TPS reading is around 60kohm and 3.02 at wot.

E2 and Idle shows 0.02. at idle.

RPM is fine... All other methods didnt work for me

BTW I do hate this self rpm adjustments of A series engines i mean I see all kind of people having idle issues so why not give some adjustment method...

[Xulfiqar]

firstly dont rely on the dash rpm meter - its there for your entertainment - get the correct Hz reading from the igf wire and calculate rpm from it - the Igf sends 4 signals per engine rev.

[Vaqas1]

^ Well I dun rely on just RPM reading actually you can feel engine trying to stalll at 500 RPM and at around 800 its more stable. Plus you know as you put some electrical load that also drops RPM little bit that is enough at 500 RPM to start shakin the engine.

One more thing is CNG i mean one of the causes for these idle issues i guess if the engine is only driven on petrol than idle will be easier to adjust and more stable.

[Xulfiqar]

^ Well I dun rely on just RPM reading actually you can feel engine trying to stalll at 500 RPM and at around 800 its more stable. Plus you know as you put some electrical load that also drops RPM little bit that is enough at 500 RPM to start shakin the engine.

One more thing is CNG i mean one of the causes for these idle issues i guess if the engine is only driven on petrol than idle will be easier to adjust and more stable.

tap into the igf signal and measure the Hz - it should be 55 or near 55 hz and it has 4 firing poles. 55x60=3300/4 = 825 rpm

low rpm with lazy stabilization also leads to a diagnosis sequence of checking the gaps of the NE (crank angle/speed) sensor in the distributor. The gaps should be equal on both and should not be covered with the molten wax from the condenser on top of it. If the capacitor is melted - you can fit a new one easily - its the usual 0.47u vareity.

[ahsanonline]

ahan. and how do we measure the Hz? any specific DMM mode?

[ahsanonline]

i think my AC is not working so well.

after the swap i got the 3 wire compressor.
i had the evaporator cleaned using acid, they replaced the txv because it was supposedly blocked.
when they tried to charge it, they couldnt switch on the compressor coz of wiring so they hot wired the compressor clutch and charged it with refrigerant.

later on i sorted out the wiring, had to short out the sensor on the compressor coz it wasnt working. now the ac amplifier is in full control of the compressor clutch and switches it on at its whim, just like before.

cooling is not that great however. even on a cool 28-30degree celcius rainy evening and having the fan at the slowest speed, the AC wont trip, it wont throw out ice cold air, it'll trip after maybe 7-10mins running consistently on idle after a 20minute drive with AC switched ON (engine idling with AC at around 900rpm).

they charged the refrigerant with the compressor hot-wired. could that be a problem? can pressure switches have hindered the proper filling of refrigerant gas while compressor was hot-wired?

[Xulfiqar]

^^ your prognosis leads me to believe that the TXV installed is not suited to your application. or the system is a hybrid of R12 and 134 parts.

[Xulfiqar]

ahan. and how do we measure the Hz? any specific DMM mode?

my DMM has it - even the low cost Made in India "Ritchmass" one has it.

[ahsanonline]

the AC system was bone stock, still is apart from the compressor. TXV they installed looked exactly the same as the one they took out, i personally drooled over it to make sure it was the same. can it be different but look the same? its the type of txv that has a fancy name with 'H' in it...cant remember it.

[Xulfiqar]

Ever TXV looks exactly the same as the other one, but they have different flow rates - e.g. a txv for a bus evaporator would be the same as your corolla - but would starve the evaporator as it cannot flow that much.

Another fault with an incorrect txv that flows too much would be that it would dance, meaning instead of smoothly lowering the flow of gas it would flood, choke, flood, choke. - this causes load on the A/C system and ultimately failure.

[Vaqas1]

Ok Its time to change spark plugs of my car. They are almost 30k old now.

Which ones should I install?

considering I use my car mostly on CNG my mechanic suggests Denso W16EX-U and thats the one i am currently using.

Or should i go for K16R-U11?

Also why mechanic reduce gap of these plugs on EFI engines? What will be correct gap?

[SER_GTR]

Bkr5eix

[ahsanonline]

use plugs with resistor in them or ecu could malfunction. ones with resistor usually have 'R' in their code.

oem gap specs say 1.1mm
im using ngk plugs gapped @ 1.1mm