First off, thanks for the very kind words, which neither I nor the car are really worthy of.
It's quite possible for well built cars to easily have upwards of 550 bhp, so the 300 odd horsepower of both Impalas (this and the '67 I own) is quite pedestrian in comparison! However, the beauty of the 1UZ (which I may have mentioned elsewhere) is how much "bang for the buck" it offers. This amount of torque, horsepower and refinement is proper "high-performance" territory. Only the fact that the Impalas are such LARGE and HEAVY cars, is what restricts their performance. In a lightweight coupe, a 1UZ-FE VVTi would give absolutely stellar performance.
Suspension - which is invariably tucked away out of sight - is THE most critical factor in rebuilding a car, to my mind. While I'm still a student of this, myself, I always try to propound HOW vital a well-rebuilt suspension is in terms of safety, handling, and reliability. NEVER take any chances with a flashy car with a flashy engine, by leaving it with shoddy suspension. EVER.
I always hear about the virtues of nice-sounding foreign built exhausts...and I always overlook that, completely. Borla, Magnaflow, HKS and the like are all very good (and very costly), but every one of my cars has a locally designed and locally fabricated exhaust, and the work and sound fabulous. Spending inordinate amounts of money on this aspect (in my personal opinion), is a bit of overkill. I'd much rather spend the amount saved, on other more vital elements.
"Frame off" is the way to go, when you restore. This would involve removing the body from the chassis (if its bolt-on), or flipping the car over, belly-up (if it's a unibody or monocoque setup). The frame / chassis is another one of those areas which is hidden away, and takes the most stress from weight, torque and travel. Where necessary, ALWAYS reinforce the chassis if you are planning on a massive power upgrade. In terms of body-work, rust removal will ensure a durable finish later on. So time and effort should not be spared on this aspect. Red oxide, Waxoyl, and a whole range of new products are available for this aspect. Personally, for rust-proofing my cars, I'm inclined towards old-fashioned red oxide for rust protection.
Whew! This thread is meant for me to SELL the car...NOT for me to narrate its rebuild process, and fall in love with it, all over again! 
