Today i was free & decided to tune my car myself. Apart from all the minor jobs which i do myself i never did a valve clearance adjustment which our mechanics call tuning. of course i have Factory Service Manuals for my car.
The 1st few pics r of my ride, all other pics & writing is from another website. So the credit goes to the original writer.
The results were to my satisfaction i.e. reduced engine sound & smoother drive.
I want to demystify the mysterious TUNING which mechanics do on our cars....
HERE GOES THE PRACTICAL
[B]Honda Civic SOHC Valve Adjustment
<hr style="color:#FFFFFF" size="1"> How to perform a valve lash (clearance) adjustment on a SOHC Honda Civic, namely a 90-00 D-series and possibly others. These pics are of an OBD2 D-series.
Your engine may not have the cbr coil packs.
When your valves need to be adjusted some of the symptoms can be excessive valve train noise, smog fail HC, a small drop in performance, driveability, and fuel economy. If your valve lash is too tight it can cause you to wear down the cam resulting in a costly repair (not to mention lots of metal shavings circulating through your engine).
According to the manual, you should adjust the valves every 12 months or 15,000 miles. You will also need to perform a valve adjustment if you loosen the head bolts for any reason (ie mini-me or headgasket change), change the cam, or disassemble the valvetrain.
Liquid Gasket ie Honda Bond
Possibly a Valve Cover Gasket Kit
Feeler Gauges .007in(0.18 mm), .008 in(0.20 mm), .009 in(0.22 mm) . 010 (This includes the EXi and most other D-series, but other models may vary so check your specs)
10mm Jam Nut Valve Adjustment Tool (10mm wrench key)
For the feeler gauges are available in Rs 200 from any hardware store.
These are the tools I used:
Ratchets 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 inch drive
Sockets 10mm short 1/4 drive, 10mm 3/8 drive, 19mm 1/2 drive, spark plug socket (small)
Long Extensions, 3/8 & 1/2 drive
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Wheel Lug Nuts 80ft/lbs
Valve Cover Bolts 84inch/lbs
Spark Plugs 156inch/lbs
Valve Lock Nuts 13ft/lbs
The engine must be stone cold. Let the car sit overnight. Note - you can't do a valve adjustment on a head before you install it on the block because torquing it down will change the thickness of the head.
Lift the Car
Pull the hand brake, put the car in 4th gear, chock a rear wheel, jack up the front end, put a jackstand under the driver's front jack point, let the car down, pop the hood.
Remove the spark plugs
Pull the spark plug wires out of the valve cover and set them aside (mark them with a sharpee, one closest to crank pulley is #1). Removing the spark plugs makes it much easier to rotate the engine by hand.
Remove Valve Cover
Remove the air breather hose from the valve cover.
Remove the core support ground wire from the valve cover.
Remove the bolts holding down the valve cover and gently pry it up at a point that isn't critical to sealing or tap it with a rubber mallet.
Remove the 10mm bolts holding the upper timing belt cover and remove it.
Your engine may not have the dual VTEC solenoids.
Make sure the car is in 4th gear and crank the engine by rotating the left front wheel counterclockwise until the "UP" mark in the cam is pointing straight up indicating cylinder 1 is at tdc on its compression stroke. Watch the rocker arms as you rotate the engine. They must be completely at rest when you adjust the valve clearance. All the valves for a particular cylinder will be at rest when that cylinder is at tdc on the compression stroke.
Cylinder #1 Valve Clearance
Check the valve clearance on cylinder 1 (closest to crank pulley). Use your .007 feeler gauge on the intake side and the .009 on the exhaust side.
The .007 should slide in with a slight drag on the intake side. But the .008 should not be able to fit. If it does, insert the .007, loosen the lock nut with the jam nut tool and turn the screw gently using two fingers. When you feel it contact the feeler gauge, gently pull back on the gauge. It should be locked in place. Loosen the screw just a hair until you can barely free the gauge (it should drag). Be careful not to press down on it with the jam nut tool. Now try inserting the .008 again. It should not fit (don't force it).
Repeat this using the .009 and .010 on the exhaust side.
Cylinder #3 Valve Clearance
Next is #3. The firing order is 1, 3, 4, 2. Turn the crank pulley until the cam pulley turns 90 degrees counterclockwise. The "UP" etch mark will face the front of the vehicle. Check/adjust the valves.
Cylinder #4 Valve Clearance
Next is #4. The "UP" etch mark will face downward. Check/adjust the valves.
Cylinder #2 Valve Clearance
Next is #2. The "UP" etch mark will face the rear of the vehicle. Check/adjust the valves.
Go through the cycle a few times until you are comfortable that each valve is consistent. Then torque the lock nuts and check it one last time.
Reinstall the Valve Cover
Clean the gasket mating surface. Put the upper timing belt cover in place. Put the valve cover gasket into the valve cover and apply the liquid gasket at the sharp corners where the distributor and cam pass through the valve cover. Press the valve cover in place and install the bolts in a swirl pattern starting in the center. First torque them by hand and then with the torque wrench according to the spec. If you over tighten these bolts they break very easily.
Re-install Spark Plugs
Indexing the Plugs
Make sure that plug gaps are set to 1.0mm-1.1mm.
Mark the open side of the plug face & refit them trying that the ground strap doesn't face the intake ports.
The rest of the installation procedure is the reverse of removal.
Reset the ECU
On most Civics you simply unplug the battery or remove the 7.5A fuse under the hood for 10 seconds.
Test Drive the Vehicle
Don't wait until Monday morning to find out if you did something wrong! Make sure no oil is leaking from the valve cover and that there's no excessive valve train noise or other obvious problem.
In most cases you'll notice the car is more peppy, the idle is smoother, and you'll pick up some mpg.
U R FREE TO ASK ANY QUESTION