Idling the Cars

[awais.9]

I usually start the car, open garage gate, check if main gate is open and by the time i come back it has been idle for 1 min. Multi-tasking

for that i open the hood,check water level,come back in car but i open the gate before reaching to the car since it comes on the way

[GoodMan7]

for that i open the hood,check water level,come back in car but i open the gate before reaching to the car since it comes on the way

Its PDM or JDM ?
Also the water level is checked by opening lid (cap) of radiator or just visibly from the bottle?
There is a mild reason for me asking such question infact.

[awais.9]

Its PDM or JDM ?
Also the water level is checked by opening lid (cap) of radiator or just visibly from the bottle?
There is a mild reason for me asking such question infact.

pkdm,my avatar
i check water by opening cap of plastic pipe next to radiator

[Xulfiqar]

its kinda good practice.
But if you use 20/50 engine oil, then perhaps it need a bit more time than a minute for a proper warm up.

that LM article more looks like poo poo - a minute without oil will cause engine siezure, why dont you do a test, hook an oil pressure tester to the engine and also remove the valve cover (tappet cover) from the engine filled with 20W50 oil with ambient of 0[SUP]o[/SUP]C, get someone to start the engine - while you have to keep an eye on both, use a stop watch to time it.

I did it on an old Honda A16 - and it usually was immediate right after the starter fired the engine (above 400 rpm) in Karachi winter which is about 5~10C - as I said before - the system has a buffered oil filter

[GoodMan7]

pkdm,my avatar
i check water by opening cap of plastic pipe next to radiator

I wish zulfiqar read this. Because it was him who just recently wrote that its not necessary for pdm to open the lid to check the water daily. Because it may generate an air bubble which can bring further inconvenience for car's cooling system.

[awais.9]

I wish zulfiqar read this. Because it was him who just recently wrote that its not necessary for pdm to open the lid to check the water daily. Because it may generate an air bubble which can bring further inconvenience for car's cooling system.

so u r suggesting to open radiator daily to check water :S

[Xulfiqar]

I wish zulfiqar read this. Because it was him who just recently wrote that its not necessary for pdm to open the lid to check the water daily. Because it may generate an air bubble which can bring further inconvenience for car's cooling system.

firstly cars are not categorized as PDM, JDM, LDM. USDM. EUDM. LovelyDM, fizoolDM.

The expansion tank is given for a reason in your car, its to check the coolant level, no need to open the radiator "pressure" cap. <- notice I quoted the pressure part of the piece.

If you maintain your car with "deezal sarviss" and wash the engine like a buffalo and let the average idiot work on the cooling system then you have larger problems than this. In normal service the radiator remains full and NO WATER WILL EVAPORATE inside as its a closed system under pressure.

If you see the expansion tank is FULL on cold engine - you have a problem - there is an air leak in the system which has caused this situation. Now is the time to verify the liquid level "under" the pressure cap. Dont drive in this condition. To stay at ease keep the system clean and run with coolant/water at all times.

Mostly coolant loss is due to

1 blow out
2 mechanic draining it away on the ground - he doesnt give a chit becuase he does not have to buy the Rs 3000/- liquid - he can fill with water and his reason was his "stupid idiot ustaad" told him to.

[GoodMan7]

firstly cars are not categorized as PDM, JDM, LDM. USDM. EUDM. LovelyDM, fizoolDM.

The expansion tank is given for a reason in your car, its to check the coolant level, no need to open the radiator "pressure" cap. <- notice I quoted the pressure part of the piece.

If you maintain your car with "deezal sarviss" and wash the engine like a buffalo and let the average idiot work on the cooling system then you have larger problems than this. In normal service the radiator remains full and NO WATER WILL EVAPORATE inside as its a closed system under pressure.

If you see the expansion tank is FULL on cold engine - you have a problem - there is an air leak in the system which has caused this situation. Now is the time to verify the liquid level "under" the pressure cap. Dont drive in this condition. To stay at ease keep the system clean and run with coolant/water at all times.

Mostly coolant loss is due to

1 blow out
2 mechanic draining it away on the ground - he doesnt give a chit becuase he does not have to buy the Rs 3000/- liquid - he can fill with water and his reason was his "stupid idiot ustaad" told him to.

Yes that makes lot of sense to understand. Thanks.
Let me have your reviews about washing the car engine.
Many people do it and spray it with diesel mixed with keroscene oil (thinking it will keep the rust away, whereas it catches tons of dust when driving on road). While many other don't wash their car engines and just blow them with pressure air (like me).

Its an year am driving my car but not even once I've get the engine washed. I just blow it up with air and soft cloth to remove the visible dust at various parts. Absolutely no washing the engine. But every after 15 days, I throw lot of water at the front side of radiator only without opening the bonnet.

[GoodMan7]

so u r suggesting to open radiator daily to check water :S

Zulfiqar has replied very well about it. hope you've gone through his post as above.

[GoodMan7]

that LM article more looks like poo poo - a minute without oil will cause engine siezure, why dont you do a test, hook an oil pressure tester to the engine and also remove the valve cover (tappet cover) from the engine filled with 20W50 oil with ambient of 0[SUP]o[/SUP]C, get someone to start the engine - while you have to keep an eye on both, use a stop watch to time it.

I did it on an old Honda A16 - and it usually was immediate right after the starter fired the engine (above 400 rpm) in Karachi winter which is about 5~10C - as I said before - the system has a buffered oil filter

Its very common and everyone knows that either the engine oils is thinner or thicker, it lubricate within seconds.
But coming back to my particular post, I've mentioned "BUT IF YOU USE 20/50 ENGINE OIL, THEN PERHAPS IT NEED A BIT MORE TIME THAN A MINUTE FOR A PROPER WARM UP".
I used the word "warm up" and not the lubrication.

In mechanics, we all know that every machine has its proper range of temperature to perform well. Say the min. & max. temperature. Now if we will bring it in use before it reach even its min. temperature, it will bring inconvenience. And similarly vise versa. No?

[awais.9]

Zulfiqar has replied very well about it. hope you've gone through his post as above.

well i read it maybe u should too since u were wrong

[GoodMan7]

well i read it maybe u should too since u were wrong

about idling or about air bubble ?

[awais.9]

about idling or about air bubble ?

u were wrong in telling me to open radiator cap to check water instead of plastic pipe next to it,perhaps read his post again n urs when u quoted me

[GoodMan7]

u were wrong in telling me to open radiator cap to check water instead of plastic pipe next to it,perhaps read his post again n urs when u quoted me

here was my question intact
(Its PDM or JDM ?
Also the water level is checked by opening lid (cap) of radiator or just visibly from the bottle?
There is a mild reason for me asking such question infact).

It was just a question and not a suggestion.
Further I also mentioned the reason for asking that in some recent post zulfiqar was indicating such things.
That's why this question linked with that.

[awais.9]

I wish zulfiqar read this. Because it was him who just recently wrote that its not necessary for pdm to open the lid to check the water daily. Because it may generate an air bubble which can bring further inconvenience for car's cooling system.

so u r suggesting to open radiator daily to check water :S

lol u r acting like a child now
anyways read the above posts,thats how u were wrong,its the plastic bottle to check water not the radiator cap,i hope you get it NOW

[GoodMan7]

lol u r acting like a child now
anyways read the above posts,thats how u were wrong,its the plastic bottle to check water not the radiator cap,i hope you get it NOW

funny but true because I still cannot find anywhere that I have suggested to open the lid (pressure cap) daily to check water level.
I am not so old to start forgetting things which I never said/wrote.
Anyway, am still firm what I wrote.

[awais.9]

funny but true because I still cannot find anywhere that I have suggested to open the lid (pressure cap) daily to check water level.
I am not so old to start forgetting things which I never said/wrote.
Anyway, am still firm what I wrote.

well u said "I wish zulfiqar read this. Because it was him who just recently wrote that its not necessary for pdm to open the lid to check the water daily"
if not the plastic bottle n not the radiator then i guess u invented something else to check water LOL
what a child

[GoodMan7]

your engine thermostat is of 82C - the cooling fan cuts in at 92C and cuts out at 87C - how did you get the silly 150C figure, you wont have a working engine with that temperature.

In american cars the temp is mentioned in Fahrenheit on the gauge. you may have seen that.

350*C - that would be murder for the engine - lock siezed and melted plastic parts around it. you sure what you read was not exhaust gas temperature.

even that is incorrect - EG temperature of a gasoline engine is higher than a diesel.

Zulfiqar, Following post was the source of information mentioned about the engine operating temperatures.
Motor oil - encyclopedia article about Motor oil.
Under the heading "USE", read the 3rd Paragraph.

Am copying here for your ref.

(In petrol (gasoline) engines, the top piston ring can expose the motor oil to temperatures of 160 ?C (320 ?F). In diesel engines the top ring can expose the oil to temperatures over 315 ?C (600 ?F). Motor oils with higher viscosity indices thin less at these higher temperatures).

In light of Above Paragraph & Your Post, hope you can put through more light on this point where we can gain some knowledge.

[Xulfiqar]

Yes the top piston ring gets incredibly hot but the oil present there is a very very scant amount and mostly in vapour form becuase the oil control ring has taken care of the bulk of the job. What does that have to do of anything on this thread.

The part of higher viscosity index is correct too. Viscosity index is the oils stability of viscosity also known as that the oil will not thin or thicken much between high and low temperatures.

e.g. Mobil 1 0W40 has a Viscosity index of 185, Its very stable throughout the temperature range, another example is ATF.

Castrol make a general purpose ATF that has a VI of 200 and a physical viscosity of 8 cst at 100C, at room temperature its very very thin compared to any other general purpose ATF with a VI of 150 even with hot viscosity being similar to castrol (8 is considered thick in ATF)

[usman_arooq2]

I have got about 2 minute of drive in residential streets before reaching main road, i dont idle any of my carz.

I drive my 2.0d saloon in first and 2nd gear at max 30kmh before reaching the main road(diesels dont like to idle much also) and my khyber in first and second at maximum speed i can do by pulling choke only and on cng i drive smoothly at max 30kmh before i reach the main road or before petrol in bowel is consumed when switching to cng after first start in morning. is this the enuff or do i need to warmup more????