is it no frost type?
NF type refrigerators have a cooling and then defrosting cycle (there actually is a heater coil). The two jobs are dealt with by the thermostat and the cooling timer - usually its a 8-20 timer or a 12-30 timer depending on how your system is setup. - The evaporator has its dedicated fan which blows air throughout and the evaporator also has a bimetal thermostat that cuts in/out the heating coil to defrost the evaporator.
New refrigerators have all this in a logic board instead of different units to control the jobs.
The compressor needs a relay to kick start in the right direction and the overload piece is nothing more than a slow blow self reset fuse that cuts out the compressor if the running amps exceed requirements, A similar setup exists in inverter type units - but its part of the driver.
Usually overload is caused by a very hot condenser coil - (clean it out) and if there is a fan for it, then make sure that the ducting is present and installed too along with correct clearance for good cooldown otherwise your head pressure will be quite high (which will open up the O/L fuse)
If it has been serviced by a desi ustaad, Im pretty sure he didnt vacuum out the system properly and didnt weigh the gas charge - high gas charge will cause O/L and have really poor performance too. High gas charge contaminated with air will result in a very poor running refrigerator.
btdt - my personal whirlpool french door ref. compressor was killed last year, I replaced it and the drier - vacuumed it for 45 minutes and charged it with correct 5.0 oz of R134a - and its been working A spec perfect for a year now.
Follow spec by the book and you will get good service, hawaai fire, tukka and andaaza are like hiring someone with parkinsons to be a sniper.
