Thanks for the info everyone.... i guess i understand the risks associated, but we're going to go ahead with the plan, gonna get the shocks checked tomorrow and have spacers installed, now all i need is an itenary for 8 days( skardu is preffered although im open to a karimabad based trip aswell if its good too), we'll be departing from lahore, i want to avoid night travel and friends who just cam back told me to avoid staying overnight in chillas, i was thinking of staying the first night at barseen ptdc motel 100km further than besham, then going all the way the next day.