Khyber - Performance after Complete Engine Overhaul

[speedster_101]

I have also got my car's master cylinder from same company and it is working good.BTW you changed both or only the leaking one?

The brake pedal of my Khyber is giving a spongy feel and sometimes it is pressed way more than the normal point. My mechanic has bleeded the system, it becomes good but the problem appears after 2 or 3 days. The mechanic says its the master cylinder. The kabli master cylinder was installed in Jan 2017, so it is faulty again after a year. This time I have bought BGF master cylinder, made in Taiwan, Rs. 2800/-

This cylinder is looking different as compared to Khyber's original set up. The bottle is mounted at the top of master cylinder whereas in original setup, the bottle has it own place and it is connected through rubber pipes.

Since you are already using BGF master cylinder in your car, can you tell if you using the original bottle with BGF master cylinder ? The lid of BGF bottle does not have any wires coming out.

[hassantahir2]

Orignal bottle can be used. I am using the stock configuration with new master cylinder.
Bottle is just mounted with one screw on that BGF master cylinder you can swap that part with the Asin stock master cylinder top without any problem.

[speedster_101]

Okay, got it. The BGF bottle will be removed and instead stock assembly form Aisin will be mounted on BGF master cylinder.

[hassantahir2]

I would like to add some more.. Tell the mechanic to bench bleed the master cylinder before fitting that in the car. That way it would be much easier to have a system free of air and while bleeding the brake's while in car try to do half strokes of the brake pedal full strokes are what destroy the master cylinder.
Also tell him to adjust the rod length (i guess so it's called preload or something familiar to that) from the brake booster that was a bit different for the BGF master cylinder than stock.
You can find some helpful video's regarding that whole process on Youtube.

[speedster_101]

Thank you for the tips. I was not able to go to workshop today. Will try to spare some time tomorrow.

[hassantahir2]

Left the car at workshop today for a complete engine overhaul current mileage was 2 lac 84 thousand km.
Oil reduction got upto 500-600ml for 3000km on SGO 10W-40 and car also started smoking a bit.
Unfortunately i would not be able to cover the process with picture's as i have to go out of city for few day's. My cousin would be taking care of part's and stuff.
Mechanic said that car would be ready by Thursday night.

[speedster_101]

This is the right time (weather wise) to go for a complete overhaul. Mash Allah the car has done well by covering 284,000 Kms on its sealed engine. However it would have been better if the whole process is completed under your own supervision, partly because mechanics tend to neglect the proper procedures when left unsupervised and partly because of one's own satisfaction. Do share the parts brands and prices.

[hassantahir2]

However it would have been better if the whole process is completed under your own supervision, partly because mechanics tend to neglect the proper procedures when left unsupervised and partly because of one's own satisfaction.

My elder cousin would be taking care of that part.
Though i bought some of the part's myself which i was sure of like timing belt, bearing, all hoses and metal pipes, clutch/pressure plate set, fluids, rockers etc...

[speedster_101]

New rockers available? Which brand?

[hassantahir2]

Nope found rockers in mint condition in junkyard. Paid 2200/-RS for 6 rockers.
Current one's are making some noise so thought to replace them.
New ones are also available in FSD market for 250/-RS per piece but they are Chinese.
Discussed with mechanic he said Japanese one's can be sourced from Mumtaz Auto's Montgomery road Lahore but as i found these here in junkyard so i will be using them.

[speedster_101]

That's good. My car's tappets also make a bit of noise but I guess it is normal with Khyber.
Have you bought the valve seals? I was not able to find SGP valve seals.

[hassantahir2]

Yeah minor noise from this type of tappet arrangement is normal but in my case the noise was loud.
The valve seals were from Musashi. These were the best i was able to find.
I would be back to my city today and would be heading to mechanic to get my car back.
Will post updates about part's price's and overall expenses tonight.

[speedster_101]

That's great.
I am using the same Musashi valve seals.
The only problem I have faced after overhaul is slight clicking of piston pins. It does not have any effect on performance, just a little noise. I used ART pistons and I think they are ones most commonly used.

[hassantahir2]

Total cost for engine overhaul RS. 47,140/-
Total Part's cost RS. 27,210/-

ART Pistons RS. 1950/-
NPR Rings RS. 1400/-
TAIHO main and big end bearing RS. 1200/-
TAIHO Thrust washer RS. 270/-
Fuji valve's RS. 1600/-
Kansai valve guides RS. 380/-
Musashi valve seals RS. 310/-
Rockers (used) RS. 2200/-
UNITA Timing belt RS. 350/-
NTN Timing belt bearing RS. 1100/-
GMB Water pump RS. 1300/-
NOK Timing/Main seals RS. 350/-
KGK Overhauling kit (without head gasket) RS. 800/-
SGP Head Gasket RS. 2500/-
FCC Clutch kit+ NTN Clutch bearing RS. 6600/-
NACHI Flywheel bearing RS. 350/-
Japanese Mechanical fuel pump RS. 2400/-
APCO Carburetor kit RS. 950/-
Coolant metal pipes RS. 300/-, 150/-
Coolant rubber pipes RS. 250/-, 200/-, 150/-
Guard Oil filter RS. 150/-

Fluids total cost RS. 5630/-
Toyota LLC 4 liter RS. 2400/-
ZIC Gear oil 3 liter RS. 1710/-
Total 20W-40 Engine oil 4 liter RS. 1520/-
(Mechanic used this motorcycle engine oil and said me to change it after 100 km along with oil filter. His reason behind using motorcycle oil was that it doesn't have any friction modifiers and also has good amount of ZDDP.... He said me to use ZIC X7000 diesel engine oil 10W-40 API-SL afterwards instead of SGO)

Labour.
Mechanic RS. 10,000/-
Machinist RS. 4300/-

In Mechanic labour Carburetor service and distributor service is also included and he also used Toyota oil pan sealer from his own part's that is also included in labour.

Rest no Silicone OR Curil was used during assembly all the gaskets were installed dry except the oil pan gasket on which he used Toyota oil pan sealer.

Machinist labour also includes Flywheel machining. Head and block surface didn't needed any resurfacing it was just polished.

[saboor73]

""(Mechanic used this motorcycle engine oil and said me to change it after 100 km along with oil filter. His reason behind using motorcycle oil was that it doesn't have any friction modifiers and also has good amount of ZDDP.... He said me to use ZIC X7000 diesel engine oil 10W-40 API-SL afterwards instead of SGO)""

Wow you actually found a mechanic that knows basics of engine oil in pakistan o.O

[s15]

( Urgent)Can anyone please tell spark plug wires order in Khyber

Which plug wire goes where to distributor and to which plug.

While replacing plug wires, rotor and distributor cap, i messed up the order.

[hassantahir2]

Check post no. 61 of this thread there is a picture of engine bay shared. Check it i think so the wires would be traceable.

[hassantahir2]

Wow you actually found a mechanic that knows basics of engine oil in pakistan o.O

I am lucky enough that i found that educated mechanic.
He is a DAE and B.Tech in Auto and diesel.

[speedster_101]

The engine parts are almost same as I used except the SGP head gasket. The prices are also same as they were two years ago. Which piston size are you using now?
Are you sure using SL grade engine oil would be a good idea? You car has done good with SGO Premium 10W40 SG.
Was the A/C gas saved when the engine was taken out?

[hassantahir2]

Surprisingly the price's are still the same there are just some minor differences.
Pistons are 0.50 crank bearings are 0.25 and Thrust washer is 0.125.
SGP head gasket was used because of it's thickness as head and block wasn't resurfaced so using the normal thicker gasket would have lowered the compression ratio.
The reason behind changing the engine oil would be sludge formation. SGO being mineral leaves alot of sludge deposits while ZIC X7000 is a semi synthetic so it would do better and also mechanic said you can use till API-SL no newer than that it has the required amount of ZDDP that Suzuki G10 needs.
AC gas was saved.

Regarding the break-in period when i went to workshop mechanic was connecting the wires and engine was started infront of me and it was kept at approx 2-2.5k RPM till the Radiator fan kicked on and off then idle rpm was adjusted air/fuel mixture was adjusted and ignition timing was adjusted.
Then car was taken out for a test ride with mechanic driving while i sat in the passenger seat. On empty road's he accelerated the car in 1st gear and then let in de-accelerate shifted to other gears and did the same.
Then we headed to a straight road where he drove varying the speed between 70-90 km/h and car was handed over to me with a advice don't baby the engine or don't be too harsh on it drive the car moderately.
The differences i felt. Car feels a bit heavy on acceleration but i think it's normal within the break-in period. The engine vibration and engine noise has gone engine is silent and smooth now.