Knocking problm in corolla GLI 2010

[arslan.v8]

Use 10w-40, also get your timing chain and tensioner inspected/replaced if required. The noise will most likely go away.

[pwuser165176643628]

Sir I saw Mr @Xulfiqar mention it needs to be torqued to proper spec, do you think local mechanism can do it? Also is Toyotas taglon xe 10w-40 recommended?

[salman108]

For all future readers,

Knocking is caused by any one of the cylinders firing up, before they are supposed to.

one of the reason that happens is because of bad fuel quality,

that is NOT the only reason.

Anything from the spark plug health, to distributor to ignition coils maybe at fault.
In some cases, cracked valve seals or bad guides can also cause knocking.

Some knocking will always happen, even with best 97 grade fuel, and everything else working properly
this is why we have knock sensors installed which retard or advance the ignition timing.

**So, please never try to paint the whole picture in only one color. **
proper diagnosis is the key to successful fix effort.

[pwuser165176643628]

Id also like to add using thin oil in an old car will only cause knocking as cylinder isn't able to maintain pressure due to wear and tear(Also thick oil usage) plus thi engine only has a theoretical life of 200,000. So use 5w-30 up till 40,000/60,000 and 5w-40 till 100,000 after 100,000 switch to 10w-40 and keep using it till health deteriorates, last option is 20w-50. This is only an estimate. If car is driven carefully by single owner thinner oils may be used. But majority of Corollas are abused in Pakistan so better to go with same grade previous owner is using, not thinner because someone on the internet said so. I'm speaking here from experience and am willing to debate it if someone car present facts
@Xulfiqar @ifadey @Hassan1991

[Xulfiqar]

You are claiming that oil is acting as piston rings and valve seats?

[engnr.mubashir]

[omarabdullah022]

The manufacturer builds an engine to run on a specified lubricant throughout its life. Why do you have to over complicate it? It really is as simple as use the specified viscosity and change at the specified intervals. There really isn't need to more viscous engine oil overtime and if for some stupid reason there was, the manufacturer would specify it.

[pwuser165176643628]

It's as simple as using thicker oil reduced my knocking and switching, the key word is switching to thinner oil caused it to knock. If I were to be using thinner oil from day one I suppose your statement would be true. But my car was driven on 20w-50 prior so I suppose that took a toll on its health

[Hassan1991]

I have seen people switching from 20w50 to 5w30 or 10w30. And happy with their decision.
Please specify which type of knock we are talking about here?

[hasankhurshid29]

My car civic 2000 was driven on 20w50 on a kabli engine with unknown mileage. But when I start driving it I gradually switch to 5w30 fully synthetic. I have done 2 oil change with this grade and Alhamdullilah no problems.

[pwuser165176643628]

Ok so for that I'll have to tell some details
Corolla xli 2010 1.3 2nz Fe 140k driven.
It was Toyota maintained so obviously they switched it to 20w-50 at around 80k km. But we didn't know much about oil grade and stuff back then so I didn't bother. At around 100k it was getting expensive maintaining it from Toyota so we switched to third party and the person recommended lm 10w-40. So we kept using it until I read a post on this forum saying 5w-30 is recommended so I decided I wanted to switch to it so first I went for 5w-40 lm synthoil before just in case oil reduction starts, so I noted oil level and everything. To my surprise it started guzzling oil, engine became noisy. Now coming to the knocking part.
It never knocks when engine in cold i.e mornings after cold start. It starts knocking when I drive the car for around 20ish km and start using ac or keep it on load i.e shifting gear at 2000rpm. I now have to switch gears at 2500-3000rpm or it starts giving metal pinging noise like marbles rattling in a can. I can elaborate more if you wish

[Xulfiqar]

You may need to check the crankcase breathing and pcv, a bad pcv will cause excess knock and also oil burn.

The pcv isnt just the valve though, its working is dependant on the engine being airtight, meaning no oil leaks on engine, as that stops the pcv valve from working and causing oil to become tarry sludge which then cooks valve seals and carbonizes piston rings, this takes a while on the correct type of oil and is almost 1000 times quicker on cheapass unknown 20w50 that ustaads and dealers are forcing on customers because it makes them the most profits

The remedy is to actually fix that problem, not apply shortcuts. E.g. toyota 2arfe have vvti pulley noise issue, the remedy is to fix it rather than fill 20w50 and send it and when it fails on 20w50, fill up sae600 open gear oil and tell customer that engine is solid!

[ifadey]

I would not use the term thin oil, instead manufacturer's recommended oil. If using oil grade according to owner's manual is causing issues, it doesn't mean the oil grade is problematic. It's a sign of underlying engine problem which should be diagnosed in order to correct it. Using thick grade is actually masking the problem.

The idea of thick oil with the passage of mileage used to be true for old carburator engines. It's no more valid today.

I had PKDM Wagon R 2015 model and kept it for 7 years. Its recommended oil grade is 0W-20 and I kept pouring this grade during its life and the mileage was around 85000 when sold. I did few Islamabad <> Karachi trips on it. It never reduced any amount of oil.

[pwuser165176643628]

Ok I'll check the pcv valve and report, is there any copy of pcv valve in the market I should be aware of? And where in Islamabad/Rawalpindi should I get it from?

[pwuser165176643628]

After being driven 4000km

[arslan.v8]

You do know that 10w-40 and 5w-40 are the same grade at normal operating temps? It's the exact same oil when your car is hot.

[pwuser165176643628]

Then please tell the solution to end this knocking, loug kehtey civic and city are so unreliable compared to Corolla but in reality I'm facing more issues in this car even though it wasn't used that rash.

[pwuser165176643628]

Update
I have also another observation to share, I used the car today again but weather was pleasant so it didn't start knocking for 30ish km but after that it began knocking after each gar change, if it doesn't knock I hear pinging when ever lifting the car in a bigger gear

[Xulfiqar]

So you lost 200ml after the 4000 kms..

That’s perfectly normal

[Xulfiqar]

You may have hardened deposits in your combustion chambers causing this,

Have you been using high octane fuel in the past?