LiquiMoly lubricants and additives

[tintin1]

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[tintin1]

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[eagleeyez]

sir can you post a picture of that page?
i never see any OEM recommending 4 different viscosities for one engine.
Mostly they recommend only 1 or 2 viscosities.

that i get from my car owners manual

[bym007]

Sir that would be the excellent choice you will ever made about choosing viscosity.
Go for it.
"Super Leichtlauf" 10w40 price is Rs. 3000/4L. Change it after 4~5K.
Or you can also choose 10w-40 with MOS2. Price is Rs. 3900/4L and you can change it after 5~6K.

LM's fully synthetic oils are
5w-30
5w-40
5w-50
They don't have 10w-40 fully synthetic.

I think your oil change intervals are extremely short. These synthetic oils are designed to be driven for 10,000+ kms, before a change. 3-5000 km changes are even fine for full mineral oils.

Care to share your reasons for such short intervals ?

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[tintin1]

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[Cr33D]

From where can i get liqui moli in rawalpindi, planning to get 10w40 this time for my axio

[tintin1]

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[anc]

From where can i get liqui moli in rawalpindi, planning to get 10w40 this time for my axio

Dealership is located in I8/3 you can search for there number on the forum...

[bym007]

sir, yes the synthetic oils change interval is very large like 8~10K or sometimes even more if the engine has oil capacity of 6~8L.
But that one which i am using (super Leichtlauf 10w40) is not Synthetic oil. Its purely mineral. Presently i am running 3600K on it and will change it after 4K.

You can read up all about various Liqui Moly oils herein detail.

Your oil has synthetic technology. Note that the laws are very strict in Germany, and only certain specific oil types can be listed as fully synthetic in Germany. This linked document mentions all "popular" oil types. I am saying this because, I know that Liqui Moly has introduced certain oils for Asian and American engines in UAE recently, which are available in Middle East now. But I dont know if these special formulas are available in Pakistan or not.

[altisdualvvti]

[QUOTE=altisdualvvti;4692322]OK guys this question just popped in my mind 4 days ago I went for tuning my bike and the mechanic said that as bike is driven 8000+km so it requries carberator cleaning but as I read sone where on PW that if the bike is going fine than there's no need of opening carb but the mechanic was insisting me to do carb cleaning but I said no to him and said him to do other things which r included in tuning and after he did I came home and searched about carb cleaners and found 2 common brands for carb cleaners one is liquimoly and the other is STP but as I never experienced any of these products so can anyone tell me that is it worth purchasing it and does it works as liquimoly sites says that u can pour this cleaner into petrol tank and it cleans the carb.also tell me about prices of both and which one to use.

[asm35]

In Rawalpindi the authorised dealer for Liquimoly is imran autos, Kashmir road, Sadar. There phone no is 051-5565397.

[Automotorsport_Lover]

AOA everyone
I have corolla GLI 2009.
Its 84000 km driven,
All oil change from Toyota, after every 4500 km.
Toyota motors always added Toyota petron 20W50 in my car.

I need a serious opinion from the experts.
Can I change my oil grade, from 20W50 to 5W40.
I want to go for liqui moly oils grade 5W40 fully synthetic.

Please suggest some thing for me.....

Don't do that! Don't switch from a fully mineral and thick oil to a fully synthetic oil, when you use a thick and mineral engine oil... all ur engine seals adapt to that oil and fit in their place as per the viscosity and flow of that thick oil. When you switch back to a super thin and slick oil, ur engine seals and gas kits start to leak...

You should stop using 20w-50! Its motorcycle oil, v.thick and poor pouring capabilities at cold engine start ups, as motorcycles have tiny and hard reving engines...

You are better off using 10w-40 mineral or semi-synthetic.
I'd recommend you use "Liqui Moly engine flush plus" (PKR=600/-) pour it in ur OLD engine oil at its changing time... keep the engine start for 5-10Mins. And then drain ur old oil completely....

Now put a brand new oil filter and pour "Liqui Moly Super leichtlauf 10W-40" Semi Synthetic engine oil and keep using hat with a drain interval of 5K kms sharp.
(I wont recommend you use Liqui Moly 10w-40 Leichtaluf with MoS2 as it has friction modifiers to reduce friction in engine, that again are found in synthetic oils and can be difficult for your seals to handle)

Don't go for oils like 5w-30, 0w-40 etc these are very thin fully synthetic oils and can mess up ur seals.

[altisdualvvti]

[QUOTE=altisdualvvti;4692322]OK guys this question just popped in my mind 4 days ago I went for tuning my bike and the mechanic said that as bike is driven 8000+km so it requries carberator cleaning but as I read sone where on PW that if the bike is going fine than there's no need of opening carb but the mechanic was insisting me to do carb cleaning but I said no to him and said him to do other things which r included in tuning and after he did I came home and searched about carb cleaners and found 2 common brands for carb cleaners one is liquimoly and the other is STP but as I never experienced any of these products so can anyone tell me that is it worth purchasing it and does it works as liquimoly sites says that u can pour this cleaner into petrol tank and it cleans the carb.also tell me about prices of both and which one to use.

Anyone answer this?

[bym007]

You are better off using 10w-40 mineral or semi-synthetic.
I'd recommend you use "Liqui Moly engine flush plus" (PKR=600/-) pour it in ur OLD engine oil at its changing time... keep the engine start for 5-10Mins. And then drain ur old oil completely....

Now put a brand new oil filter and pour "Liqui Moly Super leichtlauf 10W-40" Semi Synthetic engine oil and keep using hat with a drain interval of 5K kms sharp.

I dont agree with a lot of what you said, but the oil flush is where I felt necessary to speak up.

The correct procedure is to pour a can in about 5 liters of oil, and run the car engine for about 500 kms, and then change the oil. So it really needs to be poured into the engine a few days before changing the oil. Only in the provided time and mileage, an engine will get cleaned.

This is prescribed on Liqui Moly web site as the procedure. I hope this helps.

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[eagleeyez]

Don't do that! Don't switch from a fully mineral and thick oil to a fully synthetic oil, when you use a thick and mineral engine oil... all ur engine seals adapt to that oil and fit in their place as per the viscosity and flow of that thick oil. When you switch back to a super thin and slick oil, ur engine seals and gas kits start to leak...

You should stop using 20w-50! Its motorcycle oil, v.thick and poor pouring capabilities at cold engine start ups, as motorcycles have tiny and hard reving engines...

You are better off using 10w-40 mineral or semi-synthetic.
I'd recommend you use "Liqui Moly engine flush plus" (PKR=600/-) pour it in ur OLD engine oil at its changing time... keep the engine start for 5-10Mins. And then drain ur old oil completely....

Now put a brand new oil filter and pour "Liqui Moly Super leichtlauf 10W-40" Semi Synthetic engine oil and keep using hat with a drain interval of 5K kms sharp.
(I wont recommend you use Liqui Moly 10w-40 Leichtaluf with MoS2 as it has friction modifiers to reduce friction in engine, that again are found in synthetic oils and can be difficult for your seals to handle)

Don't go for oils like 5w-30, 0w-40 etc these are very thin fully synthetic oils and can mess up ur seals.

Arzaam bhai, please have some words here....

[Automotorsport_Lover]

I dont agree with a lot of what you said, but the oil flush is where I felt necessary to speak up.

The correct procedure is to pour a can in about 5 liters of oil, and run the car engine for about 500 kms, and then change the oil. So it really needs to be poured into the engine a few days before changing the oil. Only in the provided time and mileage, an engine will get cleaned.

This is prescribed on Liqui Moly web site as the procedure. I hope this helps.

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My post was not intended for you hence... idk what to feel about you agreeing or disagreeing?

I have ample experience of Liqui moly products and fair knowledge about oils...

I have recently used its engine flush, you can read the instructions yourself, they differ from product to product...

Lets not quote each others posts..
When you quote someone post, it means you want to invite him to answer you back...

[bym007]

My post was not intended for you hence... idk what to feel about you agreeing or disagreeing?

I have ample experience of Liqui moly products and fair knowledge about oils...

I have recently used its engine flush, you can read the instructions yourself, they differ from product to product...

Lets not quote each others posts..
When you quote someone post, it means you want to invite him to answer you back...

Thanks for coming back on this. I got this mixed up with another LM additive. So thanks for correcting me.

As per your comment about not putting synthetic oil in an engine used to mineral oil previously; in theory you are right, however, if you know LM products well enough, you might have come across LM Ceratec. It will bond with the insides of the engine like glue, and avoid any leaks, and even reduce rattle noises. So if someone is afraid of such reasons, there are good solutions.

Having said that, the memtioned Corolla has had 84,000kms which is nothing in terms of engine life. Unless the engine has been kept in pretty bad shape with little or no maintainance, I will be fairly confident to change to synthetic oil. On the contrary, if the engine had no known history, or had been driven for 250,000 kms or so, I would think twice.

JustSayin

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[Automotorsport_Lover]

^^ Agreed

He can try thinner viscosities and synthetics if he really wants to for the sake of it? But then again why worry when synthetics are also available in thicker grades..

Imho 10w-40 is a pretty good oil for an old car, also has high heat resistance

Its a personal pref.

[bym007]

Agreed.

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[eagleeyez]

^^ Agreed

He can try thinner viscosities and synthetics if he really wants to for the sake of it? But then again why worry when synthetics are also available in thicker grades..

Imho 10w-40 is a pretty good oil for an old car, also has high heat resistance

Its a personal pref.

sir, as far as my knowledge,,,,, i dont think that 10W40 Liqui moly is fully synthetic....
its a synthetic based oil, but not fully synthetic,,,,,