Thursday 9 June 2016
Just a normal heated day. No special plans. No special work assignments. No expectations of something extraordinary could happen that day.
A random Google search showed the temperature of the furious and bright sun clicking the temperature at 45 degree Celsius mark; a wild idea came to my mind which flourished through the minds of 2 colleagues sitting beside me. What was the idea?.sooner you will get to know about it.
Regarding heated temperature, it was never affecting me or my colleagues sitting in an air conditioned room of a Home Appliances Factory. But the imagination of the furious and sweat daunting heated windmill running at the fastest ever pace outside the cool climatic conditions of our office floor became the motivation of a journey that was filled with companionship, joy, an aesthetic view of nature and sound waves cheering and thrashing in to the deepest silence of the decade old trees and centuries old mountains with which our country is bestowed.
Coming back to the very beginning, while discussing the idea and agreeing on the plan number 136
we all were conscious about the ticking of the clock that was running a bit fast for us that day, as normally happens to the one day trips because of the shortage of the time.
Tick tick 2:30 PM, it was decided there and then that we all were moving towards the parking lot to get in to the car, no matter that we eventually had to have a decision on plan number 136 or may be 236 J, we were finally on our way.
Thankfully we managed to get a water cooler from office which we filled half up with the ice and remaining portion was utilized to keep water bottles and juices. In the heated conditions the idea of keeping this cooler proved to be remarkable for our 1000 mile journey as we all were served with chilled juices and water all day. The next step was to drop our laptops and pickup few things (joggers and clothes) from a nearby colleague?s house. We got it all prepared.
3:15 PM we were on our journey from Multan Road near Bahria town towards the motorway. Had to pick a colleague from Babu Sabu Interchange which proved to be our first stay and fueling area (PSO petrol pump at entrance of motorway).
4:00 PM a time of settling down and officially having the feeling of getting to know that finally we were gonna do it. Do it after the lofty and sarcastic criticism of few colleagues who were all set to go back to their homes and enjoying TV channels and daily chores rather than on being a journey that we four members think will prove to be a starting point towards a number of journeys with each other no matter they will require ages to come again but they will??Insha Allah.
The journey from Lahore to Islamabad on long wide roads of Motorway was filled with friendship chit chats and agreeing on the plan to spend the next 24 hours at a number of new hill stations and hiking areas with which every member of us come up with each 15 minutes passing of the clock. Nevertheless, it was decided that we will first move towards murree for night stay and will decide there for the next day plan. Meanwhile we stayed at Kallar Kahar ?Qayam o Ta?aam? for about 15 minutes for prayer and rest. While crossing the Kallar Kahar Mountains we were faced with the heavy storm coming from our sideways. We were in a 660 CC Daihatsu Mira Car and due to its compact size and less weight the wind was able to thrash the car with its brute force from the driving lane of the road to the very right side, the overtaking lane of the road . Driving was indeed a bit scary and challenging at the same time. Need to mention here that it?s been more than a year since the motorway is under construction at various patches from Lahore through Islamabad. Perhaps the Government has allocated all the budgets towards Orange line train.
At about 7:45 PM we were in Islamabad. The entering in to the Capital territory brings a different feeling within oneself, as most of the time one gets to know that the people, traffic and drivers have a good road sense in Islamabad, however, we moved ahead with a mix feeling as we were not able to judge or observe these things due to too much rush and hustle and bustle among the drivers. Perhaps this was because of the reason that this was the last weekend before Ramadan and everyone one was moving towards hill stations to spend a few days before the fasting month.
The traffic on Kashmir Highway leading towards murree, the old route was disturbing and driving experience was very hectic. Thanks to the automatic transmission of the car that allowed the driver to remain a bit chilled in 45 minutes traffic stuck experience. A few passing by trucks never tried to maintain their driving lanes and now & then brought a feeling within us that it?s gonna rip off the side of the car. After about an hour on 2 kms long busy area we were finally on the precipitously turning roads leading towards Malika e Kohsar. The car meter was now showing outside temperature less than 30 degree Celsius. We turned off the car AC to enjoy the gradual coolness of the blowing breeze coming from the slopes of the mountains despite being ruined a bit by the stinking smell of burning diesel of the passing by heavy traffic.
By now the sunlight was completely vanished and we were moving up the hills in the darker part of the day and experiencing constellate of small lights down the populated valleys from the top. The brilliancy of the heated sun was vanished and the slat of the cool breeze was now moving in our hair and blowing our clothes. The magical change in the weather was now easily identifiable as the car meter was showing temperature touching the 23 degree Celsius mark.
After about 1 hour and 15 minutes we were in the main chowk with one way moving towards GPO chowk and the other rather desolate road leading towards a backside road leading towards cecil hotel and lodges. We inquired with one of traffic policeman about the road to be followed. He informed us that the way leading directly towards GPO chowk is jam packed and had a 3 kilometer long bumper to bumper traffic tail and it will require 3 to 4 hours to reach murree. We then decided to follow the cecil hotel way towards our destination. As we moved towards the turn leading to cecil hotel we were welcomed by the sharp steepness of the road. For a moment we thought that we could not make it to the end using a 660 cc car specially when the steepness of the road was roaring in a proud voice ?trying conquer me with the little white fellow having only a 660 cc force under your feet?.I will never let you do that?. We observed that no other car was either in front of us or approaching from behind, perhaps because of the VERY CHARHAAI of the cecil lodges. Nevertheless we made it to the parking lot of cecil lodges after putting the heaviest foot on the car throttle and managing to reach the parking lot at a speed of 7 km/h and getting maximum to 20 km/h with four persons carried by the small jinni.
One of our friends had a visit to murree a week before and knew which hotel to be booked easily in such rushy day. It is pertinent to mention here that the cars and wagons were parked way outside the roads of murree due to so much rush and indeed it was never wise to visit the hill station in this part of the year. Within half an hour we got our hotel booked for the night stay and after rest of 15 minutes we were on our way to visit the TRADITIONAL and NEVER CHANGING mall road. We had a round of the main mall road and then went straight to the Thali Restaurant for dinner. Had a nice dinner there and then went on to visit the lower bazar of the murree. It was already 1 AM and the shops were getting closed. Still the main mall road was serving as an ocean of people and quite frankly there was no use of visiting murree in these days. For the rest of my life I have decided not to visit the hill station again as the beauty has vanished over the years.
2 AM we went to our hotel room. We all had a cup of tea. I deliberately switched off the morning alarm as I thought to be a bit witty by not waking up early in the morning as decided by the team members and lay on the bed. After that we never knew at what time we all went to sleep. May be because of the hectic day we just passed.
6 AM and one of our friend woke us all up. We never expected him to raise that early as he was the one who never said that he is going to wake us up. All of us were so enthusiastic that we never thought for a moment of keep on sleeping. Within half an hour we all managed to dress up for the grand day despite of having scarcity of water for usual morning use. Last night we decided to wake up early and challenged the hotel in charge that we all will go for bath despite of the cold water as we were told by them that they take bath after every 3 months or as and when it is necessary. We were amazed by the statement of hotel in charge and made fun of him that time and decided to show him off that we are the real men and we will all take bath in the morning. But after touching the ice cold water in the morning we all were a laughing stock for ourselves and never tried to put a drop on our bodies. At 7 AM we checked out from the hotel and reached a nearby hotel for breakfast. The smell of poori, prathas and omlete took our mind and heart in to the desi streets of Lahore and we decided to order all the food available. The halwa in the big pans was able to get a mouthwatering effect on us. After the order was served we were all very disappointed with the taste of Halwa and thought for a moment that ?LAHORE LAHORE AYE?. Lastly what was enjoyable was the tea they served us in the cool breeze which was ticking the 18 degree celcius mark. Not that cool but for the one who was experiencing 45 degree Celsius 10 hours before, this temperature and the cool breeze rushing in to the half sleeves t-shirts and cotton clothes was quite enthralling.
The next move was to get in to the car and move towards Dunga Gali for Mukshpuri top trekking. We headed towards the Nathiya Gali road. As we were passing through the way we were very fascinated with the way KPK Government has improved the roads of the northern areas for tourists. The meandering roads leading towards the Dunga Gali and scenic view of the valleys from nearly 8000 feet above the sea level had an enduring impact on our souls. We forgot our daily chores and tensions and were in magical spell of the natural green beauty which was welcoming us with its refreshing atmosphere and the smell of the trees that can be felt easily by me while writing this tour experience sitting in my office at 11 Am in the morning on 9 June 2016. By the way we do have work to do in our office but at this time a bit free so thought of sharing my experience with the readers.
At 9 AM we reached Dunga Gali, parked our car in a nearby parking lot and inquired from the few people about the track to be followed for Mukshpuri Top. We were identified with a very steep road track that was leading towards the main track of our destination. The nearby horse men told us that they take Rs. 2,500 in case someone wants to complete the trekking on horse. We decided to move on our feet as it brings a sense of achievement within oneself that he is able to reach the destination on his own. After one hour trek on the carpeted snaky and steeper road we were standing in front of two mountainous tracks leading towards Mukshpuri Top. There was no one near with whom we could inquire about the way to be followed. It is important to mention here that we 4 friends moved together but two of our friends were coming up quite slowly due to which we were divided in two groups. I and one of my colleagues being ahead of the other two decided to follow the path which looked a bit easy and was going straight with less steepness. On our way we were amazed to see the beauty of the jungle and pin drop silence. The silence was broken now and then by the sharp beautiful sound of the sparrows and other birds that were enjoying the utmost beauty and heaven on earth which Allah bestowed them and for which we humans travel 1000s of miles from our native places to experience. The way was full of stones, mud, brown dried grass and small pieces of wood. After some time we met with a group of people who were looking lost in the way. We cheered them up and told them that the local boys in the way have told us that although a bit long but we are on the right track. We continued our journey for next 45 minutes and suddenly the brown muddy track vanished and we were in a grassy open land. We felt lost and tried to find someone who can tell us the way to our destination. All in vain, we put our mobile phones out of our pocket and tried to find the way using GPS. The internet connection and signals were very weak in the area and for 5 minutes we could not figure out the way. After sometime a group of 6 men and 2 boys came and tried to figure out the way on their phones. They were of the view that this way was a bit long but will ultimately reach the Mukshpuri Top after passing through Lalazar fields. We again tried to find the way on GPS. The GPS was now showing that we all were out of the main track and moving down the hill instead of going upwards. Me and my friend decided quickly that instead of keep on moving on this track we should get back to the starting point where one way was moving upward and all the locals were of the view that it was the right although a bit difficult and steep track. We had to reach our destination; therefore, we did not listen to the new ideas of the nearby group of people and straight forwardly moved backwards. On our way back we met a lot of group of families, children, male and females who were still saying that this is a long way but will definitely reach the Mukshpuri Top as they were now having a guide kid with them. We still thought it appropriate to move back to the main track as the kids were saying that track will require 45 minutes to reach at the top and the track which we left, the one leading towards Lalazar fields would take 3 hours. It was not difficult to move back as we had to move down the hill this time and took 20 minutes to be on the starting point. All in all we wasted about 1 hour and 10 minutes with no achievement as of now.
After reaching the path which was very steep and moving straight up, we were quite exhausted and found a hut to stay for a while. To energize we fed ourselves by taking bananas and water and resting for about 10 minutes. Meanwhile we inquired the local old man about the purpose of his stay at the very peak of the mountain where there were no signs and purpose of human stay. He told us that he serves as a watchman for the area. First we thought that he is an employee of the forest department but later on his son told us that the land has been illegally acquired by Mian Muhammad Somro (Ex-Caretaker prime minister and Ex-chairman of the Senate). First he acquired about 1 kanal land and with the passage of time his acquisition has now spread to more than 16 kanal land that belonged to the KPK Government. We were also told that other illegal activities were a norm here but after the PTI led government in KPK such instances have reduced now.
After our stay we started our journey again. This track was quite difficult and we had a lot of breathing problem moving up the hills due to which regular stays prolonged our journey. While moving up the hills the sound of the thrashing windy trees and deep long whistles of the wind passing through the trees were casting a magical spell in the jungle and the silence of the nature was at its utmost beauty. While moving up the hills we met with many young groups of people, some were coming down the hills who were sarcastically telling us that ?the journey has just begun? and ?abi to party shhuru hui hai?. We were very enthusiastic to reach the destination as we thought that we came all the way from Lahore and it will be unjustified that we failed to reach our destination. We therefore, continued.
By now the stoned track was finished and the grassy land had begun. We could clearly see the top of the hill (our ultimate destination), where few people were chanting their achievement and few cows were eating grass and roaming about in the open wide fields. We already had a feeling of the King of the peak and now the laziness was turning in to the energies, cool breeze was taking the sweat away from us and the feeling of satisfaction was at its peak. On a quarter mile up the hill was laying the beautiful lush green and white flower fields which were grown by the locals for making bangles and bouquets. We missed our DSLR camera for the first time badly which we could not pick up from Lahore due to shortage of time. As we moved a bit further our other 2 friends which we lost chanted and called our names which echoed in the surrounding valleys.
Just a minute away from the top we still could not view the scenic valley and our heart was pumping at the fastest ever pace to be mesmerized by the coming beauty of the valley which was visible only from top of the hill. The next moment we were there??we were there with our eyes closed and hands open?..deep breaths?..a special smell of the hilly areas in our nostrils and a feeling of accomplishment. The green bare beauty of the mountains and lush green wide grassy peak was beneath our feet. The clouds were now more near to us. Streams and rivers running down the mountains were very much visible to us and the cool breeze had its arms open for us. The experience was heavenly and could not be descried in words. We then put off our shoes and laid on the open wide grassy fields to experience the nature?s silence and beauty for a while. We spent almost an hour in the miraculous beauty of the valleys and mountains, after that we decided to move back as it was already 1 PM and we had to reach Lahore by the day end.
On our way back we met various group of university and college students who we coming up the hill. They inquired us our overall experience and we appreciated them a lot in their quest to reach the peak. Moving down the hill was quite easy and quick for us and it was equivalent to running down the hill. We were very happy and some group of young boys and girls were amazed to see our energy level and quick movement downwards.
After half an hour we were back from the peak of Mukshpuri to the Dunga Gali. We waited for our two friends who were a bit slow in coming down and after 10 minutes we all got united to move back towards Islamabad. After 15 minutes of rest at about 2 PM we started our journey back. We reached Islamabad at about 4:30 PM. Our group decided to treat our tummies with the famous Tehzeeb pizza and desserts. Being Lahori the pizza we had at Tehzeeb was quite different. Though not a traditional pizza, the filling inside it was quite heavy. We never had such heavy pizza ever but enjoyed and satisfied with the taste and value for money. On our way back we observed that every vehicle was in a hurry. Perhaps they all were moving towards their destination after spending the weekend in the hilly areas.
Our journey ended at about 10:30 PM when we finally reached Lahore.