Multan to Soon Valley, Pakistan - 2012 Oct 06

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<a href="http://qadeerahmadjanjua.blogspot.com/search/label/Fort%20Munro">Fort Munro</a> and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soon_Valley" target="_blank">Soon Valley</a> are one of those beautiful and easily accessible places where few people go; because most people either don't know about them or don't want to try something new.<br />
I visited Soon Valley on 6th October, 2012. The aim was to meditate at <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khanqah_Daep_Sharif" target="_blank">Khanqah Daep Sharif</a>. We left Multan at 6 AM in the morning and arrived back home at 1 AM, so the round trip took almost 19 hours in our Suzuki Cultus. It was one of the most interesting of my journeys as I got to see a very diverse landscape including a river, canals, a desert, mountains, a valley and different mines. It was an altogether different route as we had never been on this road.
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I tried to embed Google maps route details here but it just won't work, perhaps due to programming conflicts. So to see it please <a href="qadeerahmadjanjua.blogspot.com/2012/11/soon-valley-pakistan.html" target="_blank">click here</a>.
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All photos are in 1600X1200 resolution, please click on the image to view full size.<br />

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We started from home before Sun-rise, and it was up by the time we crossed over to the other side of the Chanab river. In the following photo you can see the Sun rising over Chanab, with its mesmerizing light on these fish farms along the road.<br />
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This two-lane, two-way road was newly built to provide an alternative route from Multan to Jhang. The good carpeting gave us a smooth ride till Athara Hazari.<br />
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At Athara Hazari, you can go to Jhang by crossing the river on the right or continue your journey upward by taking a left turn for a couple of kilometers and then a right turn towards North.<br />
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The traffic on the Multan - Athara Hazari road was considerable. As this road is on the right bank of the Thal Desert, you could have occasional glimpses of sand but overall it was very green on both sides because of the Chanab river and its distributaries nearby. <br />
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Getting on the proper desert road was a thrilling experience. It was a single road but in good condition, with few bumps and occasional intrusion of sand on the road, but you could easily get through the sand part by maintaining the momentum.<br />
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Although we were using GPS on Android phone to navigate, it was not needed mostly because it was the only major road there which went pretty much in a straight direction.<br />
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The traffic was few, which included vans, coasters, cars and motor cycles. We thought no one would live in the desert but we could see cattle roaming alongside the road, some houses near or far, lonely trees and village settlements after every few miles.<br />
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Electricity poles accompanied us and we had some tree lines somewhere too. I also saw some schools there.<br />
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You could see Peanut plantations on the sides and a lot of bushes.<br />
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Later in the day the air became hot, but still it was bearable. We had the windows down and were not using the air-conditioner to save fuel as we were new on this road. <br />
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We were three men in the car. The road was quite safe, you just need to take care at the higher ground above because you never know what's coming behind that turn.<br />
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In such places, you come to know the worth of a single tree.<br />
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The area was populated beyond my expectations.<br />
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From inside the safety of the car and plenty of drinking water with us, I
loved how the sand was spread and it was the only thing on the horizon
for some time. We found some small sand dunes too. Overall it was a very exciting route to be on.<br />
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You could see goats and cows at intervals and some times a shepherd too.<br />
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After Jauharabad we took the right turn towards Khushab on the Mianwali-Sargodha road. After a couple of kilometers we were in Khushab where we had our breakfast of 'Daal Roti' at a popular restaurant and purchased two packs of the famous 'Dhoda' of Khushab. Dhoda is just like the 'Sohan Halwa' but it's much more light and delicious. If you go to Khushab, you must try Dhoda. We ate one pack there and one at the water spring of Daep Sharif. :D<br />
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After almost an hour's break at Khushab, we turned on the Khushab-Sakesar road at approximately 12:00 PM.<br />
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After five minutes on the interesting winding road, the Salt Range was visible, which added further excitement to our greedy eyes.<br />
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The scene of the mountains is much more fun in reality, you have got to be there to fathom the grandeur.<br />
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There was not much traffic but enough to keep you entertained. The ascent on the Salt Range was very exciting with its curves and interesting views from the top.<br />
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At the feet of the Salt Range (Kohistan-e-Namak).<br />
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Entering the Salt Range mountains. <br />
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A bit up the mountain, looking towards Khushab and the desert beyond.<br />
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Very interesting road with its windings and curves.<br />
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Entered the Soon Valley, we stopped here to look at a mine. The Cadet College was nearby.<br />
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After we had entered the Soon Valley, this was the first mine that we encountered. It was closed at the moment<br />
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There were many such mines in the area.<br />
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Going towards Daep Sharif. You can see the Sakesar top in the background.<br />
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Sakesar is the highest mountain in the Salt Range with a height of 5000 feet with the beautiful Uchhali Lake at its feet.<br />
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Many people of this valley have been serving in Pakistan Army and many high rank officers have their lands and houses here.<br />
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This lush green valley is surrounded by mountains. It reminded me of Mangla with its greenery and culture; the way cattle were roaming in the hills, the breeze, the weather, outstanding. <br />
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We saw many fields of cabbage on both side, totally green lands. Some poultry farms were there too.<br />
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Took a left turn from the Noushehra-Sakesar road and now towards Daep Sharif.<br />
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Arrived at Daep Sharif (Dayp, Daip). This <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khanqah" title="Khanqah">Khanqah</a> was built for <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muhammad_Usman_Damani" title="Muhammad Usman Damani">Muhammad Usman Damani</a> by his disciples in 1887 CE. It is a very calm and serene place. When you sit there for a while, you come to know how much suitable for meditation and introspection this place is. It was very quiet and cool here. The land belongs to the successors of Khawja Usman now and it's a private property. A man-servant came but did not inquire, seeing that we were on a car and my elder brother had a big 'Paggar' on his head (for the occasion ; these two things are enough to stop any questioning in Pakistan. <br />
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You see the white bull on the left? It somehow fell in love my other brother and tried to seduce him (or so I thought it was doing) When its horns were just a centimeter away from his running behind, he jumped to a side and we ran away to some distance. I think the bull became 'possessive' of us as there were many gorgeous cows there and it was such a lovely and romantic place. :D<br />
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Now we are going towards the water fall and spring on the backside of Khanqah, it was almost a kilometer away. We followed the trail in the outstanding greenery to reach there.<br />
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The 'victim' going towards the Chashma (water spring).<br />
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[qadeer.net]

View of the Khanqah and Masjid. These small ponds of water had many baby fish in it.<br />
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Inside of the tranquil Masjid.<br />
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It was simple but very cool and peaceful inside the Masjid. You can see the time near the Mehrab (the arch).<br />
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The greenery behind the Khanqah. This place felt strikingly familiar to Mangla.<br />
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Puddles of water from the Daep Sharif spring.<br />
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The light on these straws was just breathtakingly beautiful. I couldn't take my eyes off it.<br />
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Now this is a paradise. The spring. I had my jaw literally dropped when this view came from behind a curve. I was simple awe-struck with the sheer beauty of this scene.<br />
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I have this habit of getting out of my clothes wherever I see a water body. I didn't know such lovely and cool water would be here or I would have brought my swim-suit (Kachha actually The water was so cold that my teeth started chattering after a few minutes. You can see the dust in the water which was disturbed when I lied down there in the water, didn't go far because was unsure about its depth, but I think it's quite deep in the center.<br />
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You see my bro standing there on top, all three of us sat there for a while and finished our Dhoda.<br />
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When you stood there, you felt like being in a large bowl, as it was enclosed with high cliffs on three sides and only the north side was open where the water outlet was and where we came from.<br />
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This is the big Uchhali lake where we came after more than an hour. It's a very big lake of salty water. <br />
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This road goes a bit in the lake then it ends at a small picnic point (a little on the left in white color)
where you can get boats. We didn't have time for that as the night was
falling and we had to go back.<br />
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You can see the mount Sakesar from this bank of the lake. It was an outrageously beautiful afternoon. I wish I would have stayed there longer but our time was constrained. I will go there again as soon as I get the chance.<br />
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Ascending the Sakesar, but after a difficult situation. Actually this mountain is occupied by the Army where visitors are not allowed. There was a gate and a tight security check post at the foot of the mountain where we were stopped and not allowed to go up, no negotiation helped. Then we somehow found an acquaintance who was in the Air Force, we called him and he sent somebody down to arrange our visit up the mountain. We were allowed there after an hour of impatient waiting. The night was falling and we needed to get out of mountains before the dark fell, but we also couldn't let Sakesar go now that we had come so far.<br />
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[qadeer.net]

The view of the lake and the valley from Sakesar.<br />
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While ascending the Sakesar, we were feeling like Ab Paisay Pooray Ho Gaey It was such a magnificent place, the weather was just like Murree up there with the October chill and the greenery. I didn't take much photos because of security concerns and even took these discreetly.<br />
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It was after 'Asr' time that we started winding up the curvy road. We ascended almost three thousand feet from the foot to top.<br />
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Took these photos from inside the moving car, but these pictures are simply not doing the justice to the place and the surrounding.<br />
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This place was a bit opened to let the last rays of the setting sun.<br />
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Still going round and round the mountain to reach up.<br />
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We met a couple of cars of probably army officers with 'fully prepared' (saji sanwari aur jewellery se ladi hoi ladies on the way; they were probably going down to the lake.<br />
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Looking at the splendor and colors of this setting Sun, I just kept uttering wow and Subhan-Allah continuously.<br />
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I just can't describe the exquisite charm and the delight of these wonderful colors while we were going about the mountain.<br />
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After having Coca Cola with our Host and spending half an hour at the top, we descended from the mountain from the back side route while the Sun was setting and the night was coming rapidly.<br />
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As Sakesar is closed for public, the traffic on this road is scarce, eventually the road condition is deteriorating. It was a single road with some bad patches here and there. We met a few lorries on the road though, but they were very few.<br />
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Houses were scattered in the valleys. They were not large in numbers but you could see population between the mountains.<br />
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Here are some more mines too. I saw two men nearby who were carrying big white pieces of some mineral on their shoulders.<br />
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The sun is set and we are alone in the mountains. My camera's image stabilizer somehow shot this photo with automatic light enhancement.<br />
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We descended continuously two hours from five thousand feet.<br />
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Last light of the sunset.<br />
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Absolutely grand.<br />
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This is the Sakesar Qidabad road. In the start there was a turn on the right which went to the Mianwali. But we took the road to Qaidabad and then to Wan Bachhraan. From there we came on the Mianwali-Muzaffargarh Road.<br />
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<br />
Some more mines.<br />
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I wish I had time to stay here for a while and explore this area with greater detail.<br />
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This was single road with a few trucks on it.<br />
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I saw houses but not many people. Perhaps they were tucked in because it was getting cold in the October night.<br />
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<br />
We turned on the headlights. We were totally secluded in the
mountains, no man, vehicle or hous in sight. Just us wandering with the
hills and mountains all around us when the darkness fell. The condition
was such that our speed was not more than twenty kilometers per hour. My
two companions were a bit scared but I was having a joy of the life
time. The journey was epic.<br />
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<br />
The road from the bottom of the hills to Qaidabad was quite flat but it was a single road with many tractor-trolleys on it as there were many crushing plants along the road and they were carrying the crush too and fro.<br />
<br />
From Qaidabad to Wan Bachhran the road was very good, as it was a highway. We took the left turn on Wan Bachhraan and after a while got on the Minawali-Muzaffargarh (MM) road. The MM road has two lanes but it was very good in condition with yellow and white lines drawn properly on it.<br />
<br />
We stopped at Fateh Pur to take tea and the delicious Tikka-Boti (yum yum tasty ) There the driver was changed with a crazy one (me off-course) who did 160Km in 1 hour and fifteen minutes in the Cultus. Just wanna tell how good a drive on this road was. But you should not do this as this road has heavy traffic even after midnight and some stray jackal from the desert can come on road.<br />
<br />
Anyway, it was a very memorable journey. You have got to try it!

[asifcae]

great.....

i love soan valley.. so many spots to c........

[cyc0]

very nice and detailed visit

[usmanshafqat]

very good and detailed narrations sir

[usmanshafqat]

the next time you visit soon valley do arrange a stay at phulwari rest house. it is an awesome place for night stay. and the view of uchali lake from there is just splendid.

[qadeer.net]

the next time you visit soon valley do arrange a stay at phulwari rest house. it is an awesome place for night stay. and the view of uchali lake from there is just splendid.

Thank you for such valuable information. Actually it was our first time there and we had little info and time for that. Next time inshaAllah will try to enjoy the night stay there.

[sufian00]

fabulous sir jii