the forward canted B20A that fits the CA accord only requires one mount bracket to be remade, the rear one. the front, crossmember has the provision for the hydraulic mount already. It drops in. The wiring is very simple but laid out like a maze and all vacuum bits n bobs are in the big vacuum box. - The CRV engine does not fit.
NOW back to the post of the 4 km/lit A16A
ensure the timing belt is 100% correctly aligned - crank TDC mark on flex plate seen from hole in bell housing, cam TDC marks are on the pulley. tension the belt correctly. Remove the valve cover and set the tappets now, (0.17mm intake, 0.25mm exhaust) do not try to eyeball the cam, use the pulley marks to ensure the cam is at correct position.
Remove the distributor, very very very very very carefully remove the ignitor and pulse generator assemblies and put aside, remove the vacuum advance, remove the plate, remove the clip lock from the rear of the distributor- ensuring you make sure to take a picture of the installed postion in relation to the rotor pointing to cyl 1, There is a mark on the housing and the dogs that engage the cam.
Gently undo the screw from the middle of the shaft after removing the rubber plug. Undo the springs and weights carefully and remove the cam, clean and grease it up with long life high temperature wheel bearing grease. Assemble it back and use a new oil seal in its housing. Ensure the centrifugal advance snaps back when moved by hand. Ensure the vacuum advance is good and holds vacuum. Route the main vacuum pipes correctly, there are a few only, one to the distributor, one to the powervalve in the carburettor, one to the dashpot, one to the air cleaner thermostat, one to the A/C idle up.
Use OE BPR6EY-11 spark plugs set to 1.1 mm gap. Check the PCV, spray with some carb cleaner and make sure its pipe that reaches up from the oil sump is not cracked - otherwise your engine will never idle correct. Its a very expensive piece of pipe. Its about 1.2 inch from one end and 0.25 inch from the other.
Install a thermostat valve and bleed the system from the bleeder.
on petrol check the carburettor level through the inspection glass, it should be exactly in between the level. Make sure they are no leaks and all linkages move smoothly. If someone has poked wires or stiff items through it then the carb is probably crap now, the jets are not removeable, they are hammered in place, removing requires a special slide hammer.
for hard shift, adjust the kickdown cable so you dont have any freeplay in the lever and that both cables move simultaneously.