Nissan B14 2.0D

[Xulfiqar]

smoke on start is very normal (a sitting pump has its fuel set to max to ease startup) once the engine fires it returns to idle fuel.

The mid acceleration smoke is a little uneasy - Go buy a can of liqui moly diesel purge - and mix with equal diesel in a bottle, remove inlet and outlet pipes of the pump and put them in the bottle, start engine and let the engine feed on it till its nearly empty - it will clean out any crud in the pump and nozzles too. (It will sound softer)

btw - the smoke, bad consumption and rattly sound can be due to the engine running too cold, the cold advance lever will not release - as its a wax thermostat, it requires hot engine coolant to retract the timing piston cam for the pump to behave (inject) normally and at the right time at hot (normal) temperature.

[Dani80pk]

@Xulfiquar. Thanks a lot for the feedback. Give me a day or two to check all these things and i will revert. For A/c i believe you are correct as it is not turning on when button is pressed. I will do the entire processes that you told me now and let you know the outcome. Thanks

[Dani80pk]

@Xulfiquar. Thanks a lot for the feedback. Give me a day or two to check all these things and i will revert. For A/c i believe you are correct as it is not turning on when button is pressed. I will do the entire processes that you told me now and let you know the outcome. Thanks

[Dani80pk]

@Xulfiqar & others. I have got the car's atomizers serviced last sunday. The pick has become enormous and drive has become way too smooth now. The person who does the job retired the diesel pump saying that it is producing too much noise but the same turns out to be a bad move. The car does so much missing at morning start-up, which it wasn't doing earlier. Also, consumption has gone down to 10-11km/l. Could not give time to wiring and still cycling ignition switch on & off to start the car in morning. Infact cannot find someone good enough to play with its wiring. I want to get the average of 15-16km/l, which i believe it can attain as its a sealed engine with no mechanical problems whatsoever. Please advise. Thanks

[Xulfiqar]

timing is far too retarded, (thats why its misfiring on startup) - now what I dont understand is that you say the pickup has increased, thats impossible - it should decrease on retardation of timing unless he also played around with the max fuel screw or botched up the nozzle spray pattern and pressure (which he should not have anyway) What you need now is to see how much he fooled around with the pump/nozzle settings

Why did he move the pump, the pump has a temperature based timing advancer that advances timing forcefully on a cold engine till about 2000 rpms - after that the normal hydraulic advance in the pump takes over. If your engine is running cold all the time the timing device will advance timing which will result in too much diesel sound (the timing device is to ease cold start and cold running)

Now by servicing the nozzles - he replaced them or did the brasso polish lap job on them? I personally never polish the nozzles because once the taper in the nozzles are gone they are dead - new nozzles in, They are not very expensive for once every 150,000 kms, Were you there when he took out the injectors - what was the cracking pressure of the nozzles - and did he install new washers before screwing in the nozzles in the head. If you dont install new washers - carbon soot can lodge itself into the threads which cracks/strips the head next time you take them out without being careful.

I hate this approach (awaz zyada hai - retire kardetay hain pump ko) why cannot they think dynamically about the whole effect it will have and what systems are also controlling timing which affects idle noise. And I hate the way they forcefully spray a load of diesel out of the nozzles in one stroke - the nozzles spray in little strokes when working on the engine - thats how you should test them too (in little strokes) and see that you get a nice atomised conical spray at the correct bar rating with clean cut off when released.

Move your pump back to where it was, your diesel average will be back to normal if he has not messed around with the max fuel screw (increasing it too much can damage your engine very very quickly) - and double check that the timing device on the side of the pump is actually working and not jammed (they get jammed in the cold/advance position due to water corrosion by using plain water in the cooling system)

[060276]

@dani..yar post pictures of ur car.

[aref]

@Xulfiqar
I have said this before and I will say it again...

[Xulfiqar]

lol - thanks

[Dani80pk]

timing is far too retarded, (thats why its misfiring on startup) - now what I dont understand is that you say the pickup has increased, thats impossible - it should decrease on retardation of timing unless he also played around with the max fuel screw or botched up the nozzle spray pattern and pressure (which he should not have anyway) What you need now is to see how much he fooled around with the pump/nozzle settings

Why did he move the pump, the pump has a temperature based timing advancer that advances timing forcefully on a cold engine till about 2000 rpms - after that the normal hydraulic advance in the pump takes over. If your engine is running cold all the time the timing device will advance timing which will result in too much diesel sound (the timing device is to ease cold start and cold running)

Now by servicing the nozzles - he replaced them or did the brasso polish lap job on them? I personally never polish the nozzles because once the taper in the nozzles are gone they are dead - new nozzles in, They are not very expensive for once every 150,000 kms, Were you there when he took out the injectors - what was the cracking pressure of the nozzles - and did he install new washers before screwing in the nozzles in the head. If you dont install new washers - carbon soot can lodge itself into the threads which cracks/strips the head next time you take them out without being careful.

I hate this approach (awaz zyada hai - retire kardetay hain pump ko) why cannot they think dynamically about the whole effect it will have and what systems are also controlling timing which affects idle noise. And I hate the way they forcefully spray a load of diesel out of the nozzles in one stroke - the nozzles spray in little strokes when working on the engine - thats how you should test them too (in little strokes) and see that you get a nice atomised conical spray at the correct bar rating with clean cut off when released.

Move your pump back to where it was, your diesel average will be back to normal if he has not messed around with the max fuel screw (increasing it too much can damage your engine very very quickly) - and double check that the timing device on the side of the pump is actually working and not jammed (they get jammed in the cold/advance position due to water corrosion by using plain water in the cooling system)

The job was not done by my mechanic as he do not have tools for doing the same. He however took me to a shop having machines for servicing atomizers and diesel pump.

I went to my mechanic last night and complained about the misfiring on start-up. He advanced the pump timing by adjusting it to the place where it was earlier and today morning start-up was normal. He also adjusted the fuel screw to normal. The gauge for measuring pressure was in "mpa" and atomizers were firing at 10-12mpa (What is the ideal operating pressure?). When they fired, i mist of fumes comes from them (like very light smoke). He serviced the atomizers on a machine by tearing them in pieces and then doing some job over them by that machine. Before putting them back, he checked the pressure again, which was as stated above. The job was not done by my mechanic as he do not have tools for doing the same. He however took me to a shop having machines for servicing atomizers and diesel pump.

I will get a check on timing advancer to assess its state and let you know the outcome. I am afraid that the settings earlier might not come now exactly the way they were before. Avg is down to 10km/l from a steady 16-17 in first few hundred Km running. My bad i took it to service atomizers. What to do? Please advise. Thanks.

[jawafz]

@Xulfiqar
I am facing same problem with my CD 20 that startup is not smooth, engine gives a lot of noise and fuel consumption is not more than 10km/l. There is absolutely no blow from the engine but no one seems to understand the problem
I'll be waiting for your professional advise.

[jawafz]

@Xulfiqar
I am facing same problem with my CD 20 that startup is not smooth, engine gives a lot of noise and fuel consumption is not more than 10km/l. There is absolutely no blow from the engine but no one seems to understand the problem
I'll be waiting for your professional advise.

[Xulfiqar]

your injectors are not cracking at right pressure or either his gauge was off, 12MPA is low for a ve pump - it will result in very advanced timing and bad fuel consumption as the injector would open up early.

The ideal pressures are marked on the injector bodies themselves - and they should have been around 135 bar somewhere - look on the injectors and see.

The fuel mileage drop is because those folks messed up the max fuelling screw with no test bench. The injectors also are to blame as they are advancing the fuel injection - and not spraying the finest at the correct time. If your engine is too loud at idle (rattlly) you have messed up timing along with spray pattern.

When checking the injectors you have to peer into the mist to see the conical spray when the test pump lever is operated in little strokes, one big stroke will always give a wide spray no matter how worn the nozzle is - and they should spray with a creaking noise

what I would do is check the pressures on the injector bodies, have them correctly calibrated and align the pump properly to the engine with a dial gauge. I would also check the cold timing device on the pump for sticking as it can be a pain

take a look at this video - see how the injector spray is crooked - and can only be seen at slow strokes
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nIZveRP3ffU&NR=1

you say he adjusted the screw to normal - how does he know where the normal is?

To get your diesel consumption back to normal you would need to fully recalibrate the pump, time the pump including cold timing unit, and test nozzles once again. Ask around for proper service centres not the dukaan service centres unless they know what they are doing. Check with Diesel power systems Pakistan on Shahrah-e-Faisal and ask them if they will service your pump and nozzles

[2c]

@Xulfiqar

[Dani80pk]

your injectors are not cracking at right pressure or either his gauge was off, 12MPA is low for a ve pump - it will result in very advanced timing and bad fuel consumption as the injector would open up early.

The ideal pressures are marked on the injector bodies themselves - and they should have been around 135 bar somewhere - look on the injectors and see.

The fuel mileage drop is because those folks messed up the max fuelling screw with no test bench. The injectors also are to blame as they are advancing the fuel injection - and not spraying the finest at the correct time. If your engine is too loud at idle (rattlly) you have messed up timing along with spray pattern.

When checking the injectors you have to peer into the mist to see the conical spray when the test pump lever is operated in little strokes, one big stroke will always give a wide spray no matter how worn the nozzle is - and they should spray with a creaking noise

what I would do is check the pressures on the injector bodies, have them correctly calibrated and align the pump properly to the engine with a dial gauge. I would also check the cold timing device on the pump for sticking as it can be a pain

take a look at this video - see how the injector spray is crooked - and can only be seen at slow strokes
YouTube - Bad VW Diesel Injector Nozzle

you say he adjusted the screw to normal - how does he know where the normal is?

To get your diesel consumption back to normal you would need to fully recalibrate the pump, time the pump including cold timing unit, and test nozzles once again. Ask around for proper service centres not the dukaan service centres unless they know what they are doing. Check with Diesel power systems Pakistan on Shahrah-e-Faisal and ask them if they will service your pump and nozzles

Thanks for the feed back. I will check with diesel power systems and let you know the outcome.

[faster1]

Need help
I have a porblem with cd20 1998 as it is always getting hot,
have change 3time gasket,1time head from shershah,its now
about 4 months ago that macanic has put new gasket thick one
from teenhatti,but it is getting hotter again
change the water pump n clean the radiator too,but nothing help
as i stand in in the taffic jam the temp start rising,when the traffic
jam is clear n iam driving temp comes down.

[Xulfiqar]

You need to replace all the head bolts with brand new ones, the CD20 uses one time use stretch bolts - you can however buy a set of very high tensile strength studs and nuts - For bolts you would have to get them from out of Pakistan - I got them from a source in Singapore, they are about Rs 3500 for all of them and the headgasket is about Rs 3500 too. I also put some hylomar on it before tightening.

And another thing - when you fill your engine will coolant do you purge air out of it? and is your radiator original or handmade? Also check the main pulley for wear - its a harmonic damper that when breaks down will slow down the water pump

[faster1]

thanks xulfiqar,i have not replace the head bolts, try to get new1 gasket was made in teenhatti about the radiator have put orignal cost me Rs. 8000. You r right have not purge the air but filled it twice after running 20 kilometers,the level is ok now,i will ask the macanic to check the main pully.

[Dani80pk]

@ Zulfiqar bhai,

I have talked to Mr. Khurram he is probably incharge at pump room in Diesel Power Systems. He asked me to get the pump out of engine along-with injectors. Before doing so he asked me to read the data plate at pump and give him information about two numbers. One starting with PES and other starting with 0400. Before i go ahead, as I told you before, my mechanic adjusted the alignment of diesel pump and set the max fuel screw, the car has given about 750km in full tank. That gives about 15km/l average. He also said that it is not advisable to mess with pump rather he asked me get the fan at auto to run the engine at proper temperature. He is of the opinion that by doing so, the average will improve further as engine will no longer running cold as it is now. Car's morning start-up is good but i need to switch ignition on and off 5-6 times after that I crank the engine and it always starts on first key. What I want to know from you is that do i still need to take the pump to Diesel Power Systems or do what my mechanic is saying. Please advice.

Thanks & regards

[Xulfiqar]

As I have told you every time - every engine needs to be at correct operating temperature for it to perform like the manufacturers wanted it to. check the thermostat, replace if worn out. make the fan circuit original (automatic) and test the car. It should behave properly with proper fuel mileage. If you have not redone the fan wiring yet - you are killing the engine for sure, the pistons and rings will wear out the cylinder extremely fast if run cold. (thats why I told you to check the preglow time, starting and everything before buying the car)

Regarding the pump - yes I know the gentleman called khurram - hes very good at his work, the reason he is asking you the pump number IDs is - he will get the pump data accordingly and then work on your pump and nozzles. (believe me they (DPS) are the only ones in Pakistan that I know of - who setup diesel pumps correctly the first time every time).

For now get the engine operating temperature correct, drive around and then check the noise, smoke and mileage (use half n half diesel purge and fuel fed directly to the pump to clean it out - DO NOT pour into the tank)

[Dani80pk]

@zulfiqar Bhai,

As advised, i have got the fan at auto. Heater problem solved as well and its indicator now lights up for 8-10 seconds before going off. Needle now remains at half all the time (have driven 100 kms after getting it fixed). The person who does the job said that A/C wiring also needs to be fixed as the same is also impaired. What i have observed now is that fan comes on only for a few seconds (may be 7 or 8sec atmost and turns off). Is this OK. My mechanic is saying that I must get the timing of fan extended or otherwise head gasket may get damaged. One more thing. The diesel pump was far too advanced because engine was running cold. He showed me a mark below the pump and said ideally pump should be aligned in such a way that center of pump should be in line with that mark and does so. The rattling sound is now over, which was very evident even in driving Now there is a slight rattle in idling and while driving it completely vanishes. One thing wanna ask this time. Car is missing at idle. By missing I mean very very mild jerks at idle. Now what this might be and how to overcome this?? I have not taken the mileage so not sure what it is giving now. Smoke is there after half way down on accelerator and sound is almost gone. Drive is good as i took it to super highway last night and did whatever "zulm" i could on car for test purpose. Needle remains at half and i remembered your words "Diesel is all about power and torque band driving". Thank you.