how about original radiotor with a giant electric fan, since i dont think the 1jz hydraulic will be too reliable.
oh and any suggestions for the intercooler piping? is there a disadvatage to custom fabbed LOHA with end couplers over ss or aluminum universal kits.
like i said im in the process of doing the swap.it hasnt been done yet. bought most of the parts etc. unlike airborn im puttin in the twin turbo version. why i did it is a long discussion.
as much as i love and appreciate german engineering i am not a hardcore purist.the plan initially was to go inline six bmw (m50 series) and if i was in the US or anywhere else id prolly go for a s50/52 or even an ls1. ill try and summarize.
1. 1jzgte is cheap and abundant and exciting.i dont think there is anything that hasnt been done with this engine, so there is a wealth of literature/diy guides/trouble shooting on it. the m50 half cut would cost over 200k(please correct me if im wrong). also had the option of buying a noncustom paid car from chaman for around 200k . 320i
2. the m50/52 will not be turbo, and produces around 190hp stock that too when its new.
3. i will have to change the gearbox and differential either way (more on this further down)
huge difference in prices for parts. eg. 1jz map sensor vs m50 afm...water pump..pulleys belts.no matter what you do, german stuff will always cost too much . 1jz 2jz interchangeable parts make it even easier.
its has been done many times before and is quite a successful swap. im not reinventing the wheel here. (youtube or google e36 1jz/2jz)
another concern is the alloy cylinder(nikasil instead of iron sleeves) m52s that came from 94 to 98 if i remember correctly. those are pretty much worthless because of the sulfur corrsion from fuel.. so if i was to get an inline six m50 it would have to be from 92-94 or 98 above bimmer. well that makes it easier finding an enggine.
- 190 hp vs 280 hp
- aftermarket potential/parts. how many boosted m50 has anyone seen in pakistan. whereas you can pretty much do anything with the 1j. go single go aftermarket twins, 1.5jz. again boosting a bimmer is not as cheap. if its out of the ordinary labor will be much more.
- i cannot think of a better handling car at the price that will love all that power, and do justice to it. we all know how hot an e36 can look.
10 i like the rapper jay z 
- itll take too long looking for/ getting a bimmer engine.
- love the sound of the toyota but dont care much for the bmw putt putt putt( m40 lol)
those are just a few reasons i can think of right now (not serious from 10 thru 12). do note that i took the decision according to my circumstances and options open to me. this doesnt mean that i disagree with going inline 6 bmw.
okay now onto problems
- biggest ones im concerned about are the ones you pointed out. what do i do with the shaft.
so far the plan is cut out the front of the shaft and mate it with the w58 5 speed. hopefully align is as much as possible. relying on the mech's skill here. i know there are special tools to do this too. i also read a diy on it.
but im still really worried about the vibrations and breakin the joint int he middle.
- gearbox. wel two things that need to be highlighted are that the ratios on the w58 are much lower than the stock bmw gearbox. it was designed to run with the 3.71 rear end ont he NA supra. and the tt supra was 3.3 or 3.2. from what ive gathered so far a lower rear end on the turbo engine helps to spool the turbos by putting load on the engine increasing the mixture and hence the exhaust gas velocity.. more turbo = more power.
my stock diff is a 3.38 small case diff. bmw make medium and large housing ones too designed to handle alot more power, with a bigger 188mm gear etc. for the i6 car and the m3.
mine is designed to handle about 260 ft lbs of torque which is pretty much what ill be getting from the engine. more or less. this ofcourse means that it will not last long.
also the fact that it is not lsd so alot of the power is wasted and its not fun or reliable while drifting the car.
most mechs suggested puttin in a toyota diff but that would require fabrication and cutting the axles cutting the rear part of the shaft waghaira. that also means more moneys for him.. really dont wanna do that. so im going to look for an m3 or a 325i medium case 3.91 which came with the auto. the ratio calculator gives me 66, 114, and 169 kph in first second and third respectively at redlline of 7100 rpm with the 3.91. with a rear end of 3.3 i get 78, 135 and 201 kph :o.
bmw diff means its going to bolt right up to the chassis and shaft im hoping.?if not then toyota here i come..
i feel like i should start a new thread now. sorry for the long post
any feedback mature criticism and help will be greatly appreciated and welcomed 
