Actually what I meant was that repeated flushing with 500grams of citric acid solution was done many times and when later engine was opened for gasket change the thick crusts of mineral deposits were still there, at that time the mechanic was in a big hurry so he just changed the gasket and bolted every thing back and did not let me do much cleaning. So my question is that without opening the engine again at home is there any powerful concentrate that can remove the crusts?
Also a side question, the mechanic tightened the head bolts without a torque wrench. I then checked the head bolts with a torque wrench and the torque wrench would slip at the torque rating mentioned in the manual. My guess is that he tightened them too much... much more than what was specified in the manual as when the wrench was adjusted for the rating mentioned on the manual it would slip on all bolts. Is that normal or should I loosen them up till the required torque mentioned in the manual.
Also another question, I see one hose pipe going into intake manifold and one coming out of it. Is it necessary to heat the intake manifold in Karachi weather since its not going to freeze here, so is it safe to remove those lines just like we all do with heater core once it goes leaky. Would it cause any harm on the fuel efficiency or cause any harm in any other way? Asking because intake manifold was leaky and was fixed with jugar and a small freezeplug like thing on the bottom of intake manifold which mechanic called "tikle / tittle" was changed. So I was planning if its not of any benefit apart from preventing the freezes in below 0 weather than I shall remove it.
Lastly are there any freezeplugs on a g10b? If yes then how many and where as I would change them as well to ensure a 100% non-leaking cooling system.
