Restoring my Suzuki Khyber 1992 model

[Deadly_Flame]

Aoa, please do ensure anti-rust treatment, doesn't matter what the denters or painters say. They will try to persuade you that it'll be fine with the paint and is not required, please do not listen to them. Once the denting is done inspect the underside of the body and have any holes plugged in. It's your money so you have the right to make sure that they do not move ahead without your consent.

I cannot stress this enough, without rust treatment do not move ahead with the project.

[hassan676]

Thankyou for your detailed reply. Please note that the rubbers are already installed in this picture and the black area you marked on the front door is the rubber that is coming out. I tried to find the genuine rubber set for 4 doors and diggy but couldn't find them so i guess the rubbers are not 100% perfect.

Today morning i went to the workshop and asked to scratch the whole body with "sandpaper". I convinced them for Anti Rust Application and surprisingly they agreed. Also i decided to go for a new Taiwanese bonnet and diggy. I am trying to figure out which anti rust to use. I found Mar-Hyde® One-Step™ Rust Converter by 3M but not sure where to get it in Rawalpindi/Islamabad.

I will manage to get some good Anti Rust Spray in a day or two and till then painter will be scratching using "sandpaper/regmaar" so will apply the anti rust under my supervision.

Yes you are right that area behind the wiper motor isn't addressed. I think it is the same area right at the bottom of windshield with the cuts for air? What to do about it now?

The crack in the frame was addressed and welded. But the idea of fender braces seems nice for both sides. Where to find these braces? Are they easily available?

[hassan676]

Walakmsalam. Thankyou Aksum for your kind reply.

I just visited the workshop today morning and asked the painter that i have to apply some "Chemical" to the body so wait and don't start "Asterrr". I told him that the "Chemical" needs to be applied to bare metal surface before puteen and asterr etc.
I convinced him by saying that it will increase the life of paint and puteen etc I didn't told him that it is rust converter etc (no need to give the technical details to these people and the justifications why we are applying this else they start giving you their own desi logics and stories).
So i said him that in the meanwhile scratch the body using "sandpaper/regmaar" and right after that we will apply a Good rust converter spray on the whole body. I will do this under my own supervision as i don't trust these guys.

I have realized after comments that how important this "Rust converter application" is actually so no way of moving ahead without it.

Also i decided to go for a new Taiwanese bonnet and diggy. Thora kharcha ziada ho jae ga but doesn't matters as it will be more good to replace bonnet and diggy at this time.

[Deadly_Flame]

Nice, also like I said, inspect the underbody properly and plug in all the holes that you might find out, plug in the holes in the trunk area if there was a CNG cylinder installed. Taiwanese bonnets and stuff is not really that good, however the lining is fine, but the kabli counterparts are very expensive and Taiwanese will make do. Have the same on my car since 2012 and they are fine.

[hassan676]

A week back they pulled the car up using a pulley and the denter addressed the issues on the underbody (it is what i've heard and haven't seen them do so, i'll look underbody soon to verify their claims). I discussed with them to apply something under the floor, at first they were a bit reluctant but when i insisted they said they'll apply a coat of the same paint they'll be using on body. However, i've heard people applying some black material on the underbody. (Please let me know the details about it).

And Yes, there was CNG cylinder installed before which i decided to discard and go for just petrol now, and yes there were large deteriorated area there which is addressed and sheet patches and welding done there.

Yes Kabli are way too much expensive so will go for Taiwanese. I have found a person who claims he has the Diggy of Khyber which was detached from a car. He is asking 8k for that. So i think it can be looked into. However, the bonnet will be Taiwanese.

The denter and painter were both very happy today when i told them that i'm gonna replace the Bonnet and Diggy

[capsat]

Good luck with restoration. You are sharing issues, reading and getting guidance from PW members.
You are paying, make sure the denter ustaad do as you ask not what he think is right.

do not fall trap or step back to his 'apki zimawari par karon ga marya tajaurba sahi nahi iss tarah sai kam karnay ka' kick him under belly for such threats. You have an edge to read write and understand the plain straight suggestions from members' here. All the best !

[hassan676]

Thankyou for you reply. Yes, i am lucky to get the suggestions and guidance from the very learned community of PakWheelers here. I will try my level best to get the things as suggested here. Thankyou again.

[nnabeel]

Fender braces bana ne parengey coz khyber k nahe milenegey aur jo milenegey wo expensive honge.

take out wiper motor and inspect inside the rust & kachra accumulated. Clean it and check if it is rusty there then treat it. as u r planning for rust converter do apply there also, clean it and have it painted anti rust.

[omersiddiqui5482]

The denting is no way complete... Welding spots need to be grinded, panel gaps are all not synced. Do not paint or primer the car unless the denting process is 100% complete.. the problem is the painter will then use body filler, where there are deficiencies and that will crack with I'm six months...

[omersiddiqui5482]

Also, have the under carriage properly coated with anti corrosive.

[Hassan1991]

These braces are very easy to made. You can use 14-16 gauge tube. If you are using 16 gauge get dom (non welded) and if you are going thick erw (welded will work). As dom is double the price of erw.
But they have to be mounted at right position. Means mounting position should be strong then others to hold the stiffness. Otherwise no use of them.

[hassan676]

To be honest i don't think so that my denter is competent enough to make the fender braces and install them correctly. Also these people become so cheap and start saying to pay more and more money for additional stuff.

[hassan676]

Yes, i agree that body filler/puteen cracks soon. But the denter is saying that now he will do the stuff when told by the painter during "asterr" etc. So he seems to have pulled his hands up atleast for now. I will ask him to re-assess the gaps etc tomorrow again. To be honest working in a corporate environment doing a white collar job i don't find enough mental ability or courage to go into heated arguments with these "bazaari people". I'm very much trying to avoid confrontations with them so i mostly try to be nice to them and get the work done.

[Hassan1991]

I agree. If you ask them to straight the lines they will say "bhai new sheetaien lao phir lines seedi hon gien" .

[hassan676]

Hey guys! @mustansir44 @omersiddiqui5482 @brownrose78 @capsat @Hassan1991 @Deadly_Flame Please advise which "Rust Converter Application" i should buy? And from where to get it? How much will it cost? Will i get it from some auto market in rawalpindi/Isb or some hardware shop? Please advise.

[hassan676]

Exactly. And for my every query they'll give me the same answer: "Oh bhai g desi chat (roof) hai, desi foot boards hain, desi samaan hai, is se ziada setting nai ho skti hai"
These desi denters in Pakistan are always trying to hide their own in competencies by giving lame excuses or at the end trying to drag you into a fight and drama, these are the psychological games played by these people mostly. I've heard many horrible stories of denters running away in the middle and your car staying at the workshop for 6 to 8 months

[Hassan1991]

Almost each paint brand like berger, nippon and ici etc make rust converters. And they aren't expensive.
I used Rustoleum rust reformer many times, done some experiment on it and it does work. But it's quite expensive.
And people don't know. There's special primer used between the plates/sheets that cannot be painted after welding. I haven't tried any yet so i cannot refer any. But all paint brands have them.
No if he works at the shop on monthly basis he will not run away.

[omersiddiqui5482]

I have been there brother... I used to sit on the renters head after office hours, still they did what could to ruin things and I had to get them adjusted later...

For the panel gaps do one thing, take a .25cm thick piece of wood and pass it through all the panel gaps you will clearly notice the difference, there are places in your car with absolutely no gaps that will later become a problem if not adjusted now cause panels will hit each other and damage paint...

Buy rust convertor from any good paint shop selling automotive paint products... I would prefer rust-oleum or ICI. Since you car is completely naked at this time, I would suggest using cavity wax in places where water car reach like the viper shroud or the foot rails... Google cavity wax you will understand what I am talking about... I did that with my car when she was under restoration and the result were great still holding up quite well after 3 years of bashing on the roads of karachi

[mustansir44]

I used Sloan Rust Converter. Worked best some areas of bonnet before denter sprayed aster. Also, will be applying in the interior before primer.

[Hassan1991]

for how much? applied with spray gun?