Reviews about Total Lubricants

[Xulfiqar]

Actually that is what Honda is providing. I bought it zero meter and till 30K km maintaining it from honda. I was not satisfied with Honda genuine oil and service level, so decided to start maintenance from my other mechanic.

I want a oil which I can use for 5k Km changing interval. So some of my friends recommended Zic A+ so i moved to it. So far my car is almost 1000 km driven after changing to Zic A+. Drive is smooth as compare to when using honda 5w30 oil. Let see how Zic A+ perform. I want a oil which can last for 5000 km change interval.

5000 km?

Even old-school Honda civics running old-school oil were good for 5000 kms OCI. Read the manual. Follow it, your engine is not very hard on oil

[omer91]

Xulfiqar bhai mind replying my message in ur inbox plzz

[Xulfiqar]

wheres your message?

[omer91]

wheres your message?

in ur inbox... let me send it again

[talhawaleed]

Would like to contribute on this topic and forgive my lapse of interest on Oils. I had been using PSO 10w-50 oil on Honda iDSi. I experience hard starting, idle rpm remains unstable or car frequently switches off till the time it does not warms up. Since, last oil changed was in November and car has already driven 2000 km so thinking of switching on 5w-30.

What is recommended engine oil for iDSi as I don?t have its manual. Do you think, using 10w-50 in Islamabad during winters would have damaged the engine.

Actually, I was reluctant to change the oil as it leaks slightly from timing chain cover. I feared that, changing to lighter one would degrade the leaking problem. Went to the mechanic and he told me that its around 3-4 hours job to correct the problem( time was a problem for me then). Previously It used to leak from oil pan below but I got that problem resolved after getting it opened and re-installing it where mechanic highlighted a leak from timing chain cover.

This happened initially in start once the car was bough as brand new and one of the valves broke and was replaced by a mechanic who did not installed the oil pan and timing chain cover with proper silicon. Total mileage on this car then was 20,000 and Honda refused as said that its out of warranty and I did not had the time to fight with them. Mechanic later said that it was a hard luck, normally valve does not breaks like this and there seemed no apparent reason.

[Xulfiqar]

the oil leak can only be repaired with threebond 1211, hondabond black, loctite 5900, toyota FIPG black and yamabond, Nothing else will work on the oil sump and timing case cover.

Been there done that, I hate doing a job twice specially if I just finished doing it. Hence do it once, do it proper.

[GoodMan7]

Would like to contribute on this topic and forgive my lapse of interest on Oils. I had been using PSO 10w-50 oil on Honda iDSi. I experience hard starting, idle rpm remains unstable or car frequently switches off till the time it does not warms up. Since, last oil changed was in November and car has already driven 2000 km so thinking of switching on 5w-30.

What is recommended engine oil for iDSi as I don?t have its manual. Do you think, using 10w-50 in Islamabad during winters would have damaged the engine.

Actually, I was reluctant to change the oil as it leaks slightly from timing chain cover. I feared that, changing to lighter one would degrade the leaking problem. Went to the mechanic and he told me that its around 3-4 hours job to correct the problem( time was a problem for me then). Previously It used to leak from oil pan below but I got that problem resolved after getting it opened and re-installing it where mechanic highlighted a leak from timing chain cover.

This happened initially in start once the car was bough as brand new and one of the valves broke and was replaced by a mechanic who did not installed the oil pan and timing chain cover with proper silicon. Total mileage on this car then was 20,000 and Honda refused as said that its out of warranty and I did not had the time to fight with them. Mechanic later said that it was a hard luck, normally valve does not breaks like this and there seemed no apparent reason.

The choice of engine oil (10/50) doesn't seem very suitable either.
Some companies has made similar oils 10/50, 10/60, 20/60 for racing cars where these oil builds high pressure in engine.

The car is only 20K done, means new. So 5/30 oil would be most suitable for the change interval of 5~6K.
For longer intervals, choose 5/40. But don't forget to change the both filters after 3~4K.

[cancer4u28]

I changed 13k driven corola1.6 oil from Petron to Total 5w-30, lets see what is the result

[talhawaleed]

Ok, here are few questions I like to ask as today, I have drained the previous 10w-50 oil and replaced it with 5w-30 fully synthetic from shell.

1. Since, I bought the 3 liter packing of 5w-30 shell oil and that my car utilizes 3.5 liters’ so went back to buy another liter of 5w-30 in one liter packing. That was not available so bought one liter of synthetic ZIC 5w-20. So I mixed half liter from 5w-20 with three liters of 5w-30. Hope it wont make any difference,
2. Second is I hope, using 5w-30 directly with engine which was using 10w-50 wont make any difference without engine flush chemicals.
3. Since, car has only done 1400 km from previous oil so had it placed in 3 liter packing of new oil pack. Can I re-use this oil in summers. Does it make any sense, or maybe I can try to pass it through some porous filter to re-use it again. Don’t you think, it’s a waist throwing it away so early.

[GoodMan7]

Ok, here are few questions I like to ask as today, I have drained the previous 10w-50 oil and replaced it with 5w-30 fully synthetic from shell.

[LIST=1]
[*]Since, I bought the 3 liter packing of 5w-30 shell oil and that my car utilizes 3.5 liters’ so went back to buy another liter of 5w-30 in one liter packing. That was not available so bought one liter of synthetic ZIC 5w-20. So I mixed half liter from 5w-20 with three liters of 5w-30. Hope it wont make any difference,
[*]Second is I hope, using 5w-30 directly with engine which was using 10w-50 wont make any difference without engine flush chemicals.
[*]Since, car has only done 1400 km from previous oil so had it placed in 3 liter packing of new oil pack. Can I re-use this oil in summers. Does it make any sense, or maybe I can try to pass it through some porous filter to re-use it again. Don’t you think, it’s a waist throwing it away so early.
[/LIST]

About Engine flush, lets put this fluid aside. Because its not v. important to use it unless certain situations.
For example if someone bought really bad 2 number oil un-intentionally and use in the car considering it genuine upto few K. And after when he knows that he is using really v. bad quality engine oil, so in such cases using Engine Flush is recommended.
Engine flush is actually 0/20 engine oil which has low flash point of ~60'C and perform good cleaning when mixing with engine oil whose change is due.

Shell 5/30 fully synthetic is good fuel saving oil.
But mixing it with ZIC A+ 5/20 is NOT GOOD idea.

No. 1. If Shell 5/30 was not available at one shop, then you should search the same oil at other shops as priority.
No. 2. If need to top up with same synthetic oil (which was not available), then any good pure mineral oil was fine. Like 10/30, 10/40 or 20/50. Mixing synthetic oil with synthetic oil is not good.

I'll suggest to run only max. 2K with the oil mixture you've already made in the engine.
And next time, better to buy 4L oil and keep the balance well saved in tightly closed bottle at room temperature (20~25 Degree C) & keeping it away from extreme conditions like direct sunlight, close to kitchen, close to bathroom, etc.

[Xulfiqar]

Why buy small packages, I have 3 cars here and buy a big container (5 gallons) of regular 5w30 that 2 of my cars take, Father in law also chips in for his 2 cars too. - It comes out really easy on budget - I also buy filters in advance with other service parts.

My benz takes a bit "spensive" oil - So I buy it on discount when I can and store it for later (oil change interval is usually 15000 miles = 24000 kms

Dont worry about engine flushing - run the engine really hot and drain the oil for at least 10 minutes, if the oil is really thick due to age - then half a litre of kerosene is a good flush - pour it in with the original oil charge - run the engine at idle speed for 10 minutes (do not under any circumstances drive the car or even accelerate the engine) and drain.

[faiz.aslam.121]

Dont worry about engine flushing - run the engine really hot and drain the oil for at least 10 minutes, if the oil is really thick due to age - then half a litre of kerosene is a good flush - pour it in with the original oil charge - run the engine at idle speed for 10 minutes (do not under any circumstances drive the car or even accelerate the engine) and drain.

Do you add kerosene to the new oil? And do you drain it afterwards? I thought kerosene is flammable? Still learning:)

[talhawaleed]

About Engine flush, lets put this fluid aside. Because its not v. important to use it unless certain situations.
For example if someone bought really bad 2 number oil un-intentionally and use in the car considering it genuine upto few K. And after when he knows that he is using really v. bad quality engine oil, so in such cases using Engine Flush is recommended.
Engine flush is actually 0/20 engine oil which has low flash point of ~60'C and perform good cleaning when mixing with engine oil whose change is due.

Shell 5/30 fully synthetic is good fuel saving oil.
But mixing it with ZIC A+ 5/20 is NOT GOOD idea.

No. 1. If Shell 5/30 was not available at one shop, then you should search the same oil at other shops as priority.
No. 2. If need to top up with same synthetic oil (which was not available), then any good pure mineral oil was fine. Like 10/30, 10/40 or 20/50. Mixing synthetic oil with synthetic oil is not good.

I'll suggest to run only max. 2K with the oil mixture you've already made in the engine.
And next time, better to buy 4L oil and keep the balance well saved in tightly closed bottle at room temperature (20~25 Degree C) & keeping it away from extreme conditions like direct sunlight, close to kitchen, close to bathroom, etc.

Thanking you so much for your reply, as your suggestion was very helpful. Lets clarify this further form Xulifqar.

[Teeboyuk]

on old diesel engines pump ones..i put half cup diesel in .. i dont start the engine just turn it over..then once oil is drained i pour cheap oil and let let drip out the sum nut...

[talhawaleed]

Why buy small packages, I have 3 cars here and buy a big container (5 gallons) of regular 5w30 that 2 of my cars take, Father in law also chips in for his 2 cars too. - It comes out really easy on budget - I also buy filters in advance with other service parts.

My benz takes a bit "spensive" oil - So I buy it on discount when I can and store it for later (oil change interval is usually 15000 miles = 24000 kms

Dont worry about engine flushing - run the engine really hot and drain the oil for at least 10 minutes, if the oil is really thick due to age - then half a litre of kerosene is a good flush - pour it in with the original oil charge - run the engine at idle speed for 10 minutes (do not under any circumstances drive the car or even accelerate the engine) and drain.

Dear Xulifqar,
Thanking you for your reply, your insight into technical things are very helpful for every pakwheel’s member.

I normally buy oil in stock like as you mentioned if I get a good deal from somewhere but unfortunately all the previous stock that is left with me of approximately 20 packs of oil are of 10w-50 and after reading these forums I realized that I also need 5w-30.

But since, I have bought 3L pack of 5w-30 of shell helix from metro as only 3Lpacking was available so I later mixed half an liter of 5w-20 along with it. What do you suggest, do you agree with @GoodMan7 suggestion, does it needs an earlier change. Would synthetic oils of different grades will mix with each other and I hope, this would not harm the vehicle.

Secondly since car has only done 1400km on previous 10w- 50 oil so I have again stocked it. Can I use this oil again, maybe after passing it through some filter.

[Xulfiqar]

All retail passenger car oils are miscible with other, you will have no problems using a blend of two oils for the purpose you are using it (daily driven production line car)

Such decisions are only catastrophic in extreme duty engines - your corolla will not even come in the same galaxy as those.

[talhawaleed]

Do you add kerosene to the new oil? And do you drain it afterwards? I thought kerosene is flammable? Still learning:)

No. half an liter kerosene advice is only for an oil that is about to be changed. According to Xulifqar, this is an alternative for engine flush mixture which is available in market.
But your concern is very genuine. kerosene is flammable and engine temperature runs very high so how about a fear of a fire inside even at 10 min of idling. This idea also came into my mind earlier but I have only tried it in gear box as an alternative to other chemicals. Then later after the flush, I changed the gear oil of iDSi with genuine Hondas gear oil and problem of gears getting stuck was gone.
But here, temperature within engine goes very high so that might be a concern.

[faiz.aslam.121]

No. half an liter kerosene advice is only for an oil that is about to be changed. According to Xulifqar, this is an alternative for engine flush mixture which is available in market.
But your concern is very genuine. kerosene is flammable and engine temperature runs very high so how about a fear of a fire inside even at 10 min of idling.
But here, temperature within engine goes very high so that might be a concern.

Well, I honestly think that once kerosene is mixed with engine oil, it loses it's flammable properties. To be on the safe side, Xulfiqar Bhai said not do drive it or rev it- just let it idle. Damn he's clever MashAllah:)

[talhawaleed]

Well, I honestly think that once kerosene is mixed with engine oil, it loses it's flammable properties. To be on the safe side, Xulfiqar Bhai said not do drive it or rev it- just let it idle. Damn he's clever MashAllah:)

yesterday, i have cleaned the pan used for collecting the old oil as this time i replaced it myself after buying the special tool for opening the filter from metro. small amount of kerosene did a really good job in cleaning the pan and maybe inside engine in absence of oxygen/air, it may not burn.

[Xulfiqar]

most engine flushes are straight kero anyway, some have a bit of light mineral oil. The idea is that the worn out tar looking oil gets some sort of flush so it can pour out of the sump.